Spidermites problems

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A

astra007

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LMFAO, SPIDERMITES: the bane of marijuana growers. remedies are organic; soaps and oils. natural; preditormites and other buggies like ladybugs. chemical; avid, floramite are 2 that are called systemics - they are sprayed on the plant and enter to mix with the plant juices thus killing the mites over time. avid has a life span of 6 weeks and floramite is 3 weeks - after this amount of time the chemical will just flush out of the plant. then there are other chemicals that you apply to the soil like skank which lasts for around 4 weeks. NOTE - A MYTH about chemicals; you dont smoke it, they do leave the plant just like fertilysers, that is why good growers FLUSH for 2 weeks at the end of the flower cycle.

this is the truth from some1 who has tried all the remedies. getting rid of the mites on the plant is just half the battle. after you crop off; you must disinfect your whole room; under tables, in cracks, all 6 flat surfaces. pots and lights - use a bleach solution and mop, wipe and spray. then use a good chemical like avid and spray again - then maybe, just maybe your rid of them.

MITICIDES OR ACARICIDES are not insecticides; they are a type of pesticide just like insecticides are. insecticide sprays and bombs are a total waste of money and time in battling spidermites.

oils like NEEM OIL do work but you have to use it every 4 - 8 days; with 50 plants with 3 weeks of veg and 8 weeks of flower; thats 500 washings of a potted plant at a minimum. and you have to do underside of each leaf and inner stems as well as the outer material.
 
is there any hope? i have spider mites on my 2 plants. I estimate i am 2-3 weeks away from harvest.

Pictures attached so you can see how far the plants have progressed. The one plant has the yellow flecked spots on almost every leaf. The other one is drooping and has bad leaf curl, but no yellow flecks.

What should I do? Harvest now with reduced yield? Try to use a product to remove them or minimize them?

plant1.JPG


plant2.JPG


plant2a.JPG
 
get in thar now and wash yer plants with cool sudsy water; use dish detergent. then get NEEM OIL and wash again; both the underside and leaf tops. if they are in pots, you can dip the whole plant, submerge it completely. repeat the neem oil every 5 days untill harvest.
 
The store was out of neem, however, i got insecticidal soap 1% with nothing else in it. I can get the neem tomorrow as I have located another store that carries it.

After reading another thread on here, and some other web sites, i also used a solution of isopropyl alcohol which people have reported success with.

i have also removed some infested leaves which have been treated using the soap and isopropyl alcohol to observe the spider mites as well as the eggs seperately from the plants. So far, the mites on these leaves are dead and I do notice any movement under magnification. I assume the eggs will hatch and this treatment will need to go on for a couple weeks.

It is strange that the other plant does not seem to have any spider mites on it, however, it has its own set of serious problems. After even more reading, i think the only thing it could be is over-fertilizing. I have flushed the soil with water and it has excellent drainage.

Is the neem safe to spray into the buds and how will it affect the final outcome?

If I am way off base with the above regimen, please let me know as I am new to this. I truley appreciate the help on this message board.
 
the neem simply smothers them by coating them with oil. It works, but sure as hell leaves a nasty tasting residue on the buds.
To eliminate them, you need to concentrate on their reproduction. yes, continue any treatment every 3-5 days for at least the next 2 weeks. The isopropyl helps tremendously with the live mites, but I'm not sure of it's effects on the eggs.
Another way to "curb" the infestation is by manual removal, either by hand washing/wiping tops and bottoms of "every" leaf and/or vacumeing them off with a hand held vacume cleaner. You can take them right into the shower, or use a spray from the garden hose outdoors. This won't elminate them, by any means, but it will reduce the numbers to a more controlable state. And you won't have the neem residue to smoke.
Once this grow is finished. Follow the cleaning painting advice given, or you're sure to have them again next grow.
 
most peeps dont like miticides, but thar is 1 called floramite with a lifetime of 3 weeks. this is a systemic and will kill all stages of the spidermite DEAD with 1 application. it is available in the usa but not in canada without a licence. this will also sterilize your grow area as well. problem is, it kills all insects and mites. if you have 2 weeks of flush plus some grow time left then go ahead and use it. are ya outdoor or indoor? cant tell.
 
so spider mites are the ENEMY.U LEARN something new every DAY!
 
dang i had the solution for this in case it ever happened to me but the link isnt working for me (dead link) if it works for you good luck
mod edit...
 
sorry to inform you that overgrow bit the big 1 several months ago.
 
sidermites on 1 or 2 plants - use organics. myths - cold does not kill them; they hibernate. insecticides dont work; they are not insects. water may wash off the adults but will not hurt the young; these are eggs, self contained . miticides do work; you need several to rotate thru the crop cycle like agriculturists do and you must fumagate the environment or spray in every nook and cranny including lights; thus no immunity built up. had a buddy move everything to a new home - i got mites he said. yup they travelled with him; on his equipment, pets and himself.
 
oh, ya stickies and things like that are a waste of yer money; mites **** the juices from the plant therefore you have to treat the plant first. then the environment - its an ongoing battle. you stand between them and their food source. myth - chemicals will be in the mj and you smoke it; no it is flushed out and or most have a protective span of 4 to 6 weeks and then the plant rejects it. most of yer fruits and veg's you eat every day are treated with miticides. knowledge is the key to success
 
hey astra...when the pissties start to brown, is that when you start flushing your crop? (when harvesting)
 
i usually go by the length of the strain. i dont do bagseed only prime so i get the strain description or look it up. i start flush 2 weeks before end of flower time. and start harvest when 1/3 of the crop has turned amber as it usually takes 3 days to take down. watch the bottom buds; they turn first usually.
 
Well my 2 plants are not doing well. However, isopropyl definitely kills the live spider mites dead 100% and I have been re-applying every 3 days. I am afraid to use anything else this close to harvest.

This is definitely keeping the problem from getting worse.

I will most likely have to harvest a bit early because the plants are in pretty bad shape and not getting better. The one plant does not really have spider mites, but still has severe leaf curl and brown leaf tips. Any cause for that? I am guessing its too hot in the room since I flushed the soil thoroughly and that made no improvement.

My next grow will afford me the time to setup the room properly - which I did not do this time and as you can see from my issues, was a mistake.

I appreciate all the help on this forum and it is an invalueable resource.
 

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