Little problem... with pics

[alexplicit]

Ok so here my problem... everything was going well until yesterday... lower leaves are turning yellow... and some small ''rust'' spot appears

anyways look at the pictures

what can i do?!??

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e268/alexplicit/IMG_9603.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e268/alexplicit/IMG_9606.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e268/alexplicit/IMG_9607.jpg

thanks for your help

[Crazy Horse]

Are you using nutes? Any other info you can give?

[alexplicit]

medusa seed
day # 20
four 4' florurescent bulb
18/6
fan 18/6
last fertilization: day 17 with 20 20 20

any thing else you need to know?:D

[the_riz]

similar situation to one i had, how far from the top of the plant is the light?

i solved the problem by raising the lightabout a foot away from where i had it (about 6 inches) and toning down the nutrients slightly, which was easier for me cuz i use an NFT system meaning i just reduce the pump usage,

id definetly check the light distance, make sure there not being burned

the ph, make sure it is not out of whack,

and tone down the nutrient solution a bit see if it improves, looks like the start of neut burn

hope this helps
riz

[alexplicit]

yeah.. this help a lot... thank you

the ph is at 6.9, right now the light (2 4' fluorescent) is less than 1in from the top (that's what i have read)

and be raising the light should it be back to normal or will the rust spot be there forever

and what would be the best fertilizer tu use...not to expensive!

is there a way to check the amount of nutriment in my soil..

thanks again!

[northernlightssmokn]

well theres a few things to consider, What is your soil doing? I hope your not sucked into the "time release fert" scam....I would flush my soil if I was you...You can not hurt a plant by flushing it. let them sit for a day to use the water you flushed them with (dont bottom water at all till the access water in the bucket is absorbed. Than I woul use nothing but ph'd water to hydrate for another day and start w/ a fertilizer regimine. If the rust spot on the leaf is dead, it will not come back....the lights (flourescent you said) shouldnt be a factor I think..

[THCskunk]

Sounds and looks like a water problem. Your soil looks good quality, but by the way it is sinking in, thats a no no. Keep your soil moist not soaked, in other words you have to be able to see dry spots on your soil every 8 hours. If your dont, its becuase you have to much water. Having to much water can result in numerous unwanted things. Believe me, I've been there. TRIAL & ERROR.

[alexplicit]

ok thanks to you!

should i trim the yellow leaves?

and for the watering i think that my soil can drain well so i dont think that this is the problem

when i'm watering should i add water until there is water coming down from the botttom holes?

and no i dont use time release ****... it's powder 20 20 20.. maybe i just put to much of it

what would be the best fertiliser to use??

thanks again

anyone else??

[northernlightssmokn]

If you think you used to much fert's you realy need to flush. Than moisten and waite, dont jump into re introducing anything in to it... there are two good types of fert's to recommend. They are made by schultz, the first is an all purpose plant food. Its a small green container (10 oz's) and is about 10 bucks. It is great for the 18/6 cycle. The other is a Schultz "bloom plus" plant food mix. It is great for the 12/12 cycle and sends a good amount of nutrition to the leafs and enhances the leafs ability to accept more dark red spectrum light from your h.i.d-h.p.s. That is good because a red is hard to get from h.p.s. The spectrom is overpowered by the more medium yellow to orange spectrum..(in my opinoin, some dissagree). The two will cost about 20 bucks and last through about 30 5 gal. buckets, so if you crop 5 plants it will last through about 5 or 6 crops. I disagree with a friend over the giving of the ferts. His preferred way: Top feed the ferts in and occasionaly a heavy mist.....my prefered way: bottom feed when I fert and let the plant bring it in from its oldest and strongest roots, not from the newer roots at the top, the ones in the bottom are the strongest and most able to feed w/ out over ferting the newer weaker roots. I dont like to add chemicals directly to the leaves. I think it encourages leaf burn and false signs of over ferting. Hope this helps.

[Brouli]

sorry i just look thru this post but man your Ph is high !!!!!!!! brown spots (this darkish color ) i becouse of Ph levels

[Crazy Horse]

My plants sit at about 7.75 :eek: . I give them water that has ph down in it. I get the water to about 5.5, then pour it in the pots. But when it comes out the bottom of the pot, it reads at 7.75. My plants are healthy tho :) . That doesn't mean that you don't have a ph problem. I think it is the nutes. I would flush them too, and go from there.

[Brouli]

so we all agree that he needs to flush who will tell how to flush properly ??
i hope alexplicit can anwser that question with out our help

[newgreenthumb]

Your plant looks fine :D just get the PH down so they don't get nute lock up. You can also use a little hydrogen peroxide in your water to add some oxygen to your soil to help prevent root rot from overwatering. :farm:

[stunzeed]

Your plant looks fine :D just get the PH down so they don't get nute lock up. You can also use a little hydrogen peroxide in your water to add some oxygen to your soil to help prevent root rot from overwatering. :farm:


Hydrogen Peroxide huh? In what amounts do you add? Also is this beneficial to your plants if they are not going through a nutrient defficiancy? Thanks all.


Stunzeed..

[Hick]

sorry i just look thru this post but man your Ph is high !!!!!!!! brown spots (this darkish color ) i becouse of Ph levels
in soil.."6.9" is not horribly high. Borderline acceptable..My medium usually runs 6.5-7.0 without issues.
The rust spots won't repair themselves, just watch for further progression.

[the_riz]

Yeah, Its ok when you catch this kinda problem in early life, as the leaves will never 'repair' themselves, but will slowly slip away into the stank undergrowth..

ph should be checked at least every 2 days, if not everyday

[newgreenthumb]

Hydrogen Peroxide huh? In what amounts do you add? Also is this beneficial to your plants if they are not going through a nutrient defficiancy? Thanks all.


Stunzeed..
It all depends on if you are using food grade h2o2 which is usally 35% or the kind found in the first aid dept which is 3%. Here is a breakdown for you. If any substance is interesting, it's hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide should really be called hydrogen dioxide. Its chemical formula is H2O2. It contains one more atom of oxygen that does water (H20). By now everyone's aware of the ozone layer that surrounds the earth. Ozone consists of three atoms of oxygen (03). This protective layer of ozone is created when ultraviolet light from the sun splits an atmospheric oxygen molecule (02) into two single, unstable oxygen atoms. These single molecules combine with others to form ozone (03). Ozone isn't very stable. In fact, it will quickly give up that extra atom of oxygen to falling rainwater to form hydrogen peroxide (H202). (Bear with me: all this chemistry mumbo jumbo I'm going through actually will help you understand the importance of hydrogen peroxide.)

It is this hydrogen peroxide in rainwater that makes it so much more effective than tap water when given to plants. With the increased levels of atmospheric pollution, however, greater amounts of H202 react with air-borne toxins and never reach the ground. To compensate for this, many farmers have been increasing crop yields by spraying them with diluted hydrogen peroxide (5 to 16 ounces of 35% mixed with 20 gallons of water per acre). You can achieve the same beneficial effect with your house plants by adding 1 ounce of 3% hydrogen peroxide (or 16 drops of 35% solution) to every quart of water you give your plants. (It can also be made into an excellent safe insecticide. Simply spray your plants with 8 ounces of 3% peroxide mixed with 8 ounces of white sugar and one gallon of water.) :farm: But remember that you don't want to use this if you are a micro-organism grower using living teas and mycorrizhal fungi etc as it will kill some of the beneficial bacteria. :D

[alexplicit]

ok thanks to all of you!!

should i trim the leaves that are the worst

thanks again

anyone else

[ZMAN]

no, just let them fall off when they are ready. they contain stored energy.

[alexplicit]

thanks

[the_riz]

or you can pull them downwards gently.. if they pop off nice and easy, there ready to come off and the plants not using them. If they dont pop off and just bend, leave them on.. kind of general rule i guess if you want to get rid of the deadish ones

[KADE]

Once the leaves get past the 50% dead mark... the plant is using more energy healing them then it would take to heal the little place the leave was attached to. This is when you should consider cutting the leaves off. (with a sterilized tool)

[Douchermann]

Hydrogen peroxide should really be called hydrogen dioxide. Its chemical formula is H2O2.

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but a dioxide compound and a peroxide compound are two completely different things. Peroxide comes from the O-O bond, while in dioxide, the oxygen molecules are bonded to the central atom seperately. This is hydrogen peroxides basic molecule structure:
H-O-O-H
Notice the oxygen molecules are bonded together, thus the fairly unstable peroxide bond.
Carbon dioxide however, which is not the same as carbon peroxide is
O-C-O with two valence electrons left over (since carbon has a + or - charge of 4 normally.

[KADE]

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but a dioxide compound and a peroxide compound are two completely different things. Peroxide comes from the O-O bond, while in dioxide, the oxygen molecules are bonded to the central atom seperately. This is hydrogen peroxides basic molecule structure:
H-O-O-H
Notice the oxygen molecules are bonded together, thus the fairly unstable peroxide bond.
Carbon dioxide however, which is not the same as carbon peroxide is
O-C-O with two valence electrons left over (since carbon has a + or - charge of 4 normally.

*shivers* Grade 11-12 chemistry coming back from the past!! ack!!

[alexplicit]

thanks again

heres a pics from last week:

[newgreenthumb]

Don't mean to rain on your parade, but a dioxide compound and a peroxide compound are two completely different things. Peroxide comes from the O-O bond, while in dioxide, the oxygen molecules are bonded to the central atom seperately. This is hydrogen peroxides basic molecule structure:
H-O-O-H
Notice the oxygen molecules are bonded together, thus the fairly unstable peroxide bond.
Carbon dioxide however, which is not the same as carbon peroxide is
O-C-O with two valence electrons left over (since carbon has a + or - charge of 4 normally.

I see your point and well taken, thats why I love this forum. :cool:

[bombbudpuffa]

I use 3 mil of HP(3%) per gallon. Trial and error! Plus, I might add...if you're growing in soil you feed nutes every third watering and just plain water the rest of the time. Like this- nutes, water, water, nutes, water, water, etc. Keeps salts from building up.