Yellow Leaves, Spots & White Stuff

I'm having some issues with my plants and I was hoping someone may be able to help me out. Before I get into my issues here's some info on my setup.. - 7 Plants - Outdoors - Clones - In Large Pots - Pro Mix BX (Soil) - Cockadoodle DOO Organic Fertilizer (Chicken Manure) - Water from tap (2 1/2 gallons split between the plants evenly) every 2 to 3 days - Planted late May early June A week or two ago I started to notice some discoloration on some of my leaves. Out of the 7 plants the 2 largest showed the least amount of discolored leaves, the next two biggest showed a little bit more and the 3 smallest showed the most with the smallest plants having 60% of the leaves in bad shape. Some were all yellow with brown spots, some leaves were still green with these same brown spots and a few had this white stuff/coloring on them. I've tried numerous times to attached my pictures of my leaves to this post but for some reason I won't let me. If you go to the Gallery and click on the Other section you will see 8 pictures I have up uploaded all labeled Problems. There are pictures of all the issues I have described above. My friend thinks he used too much fertilizer and they are suffering from too much Nitrogen. So today we removed all the discolored leaves and flushed all the plants. Just wondering if too much Nitrogen is my only issue, not an issue or if I have other issues I should be worrying about? If you've read this far... THANK YOU!! Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!!

just to be on the safe side inspect the bottom of the leaves real closely and look for small dots, those are spider mites, mine outside are infected by them right now, i didnt see them till i looked REALLY CLOSE!!

it doesn't look like nitrogen burn...to "me". the middle picture looks like you can see indications of mildew or mold, but not for certain.
the small black spots on the final pic, looks like bug feces, remnants possibly.
The chlorosis/yellowing appears to be from more of a defficiency, than over feeding..IMHO

It looks like u have a mg def
Are you keeping your PH level,s correct in the water you use if there off u could be locking out vital nuirents

also looks like a bug problem there to

Thanks everyone for all of the help!! I hadn't been checking PH levels prior but I went out today and picked up a PH meter and I'm getting a reading of 7.3 on the water I use. From what I read that number seems a bit too high? If that is the case what PH level should I be shooting for in my water? Should I also be checking the PH levels of my soil? Will correcting the PH levels in my water correct the MG deficiency or in addition to correcting the PH levels of my water should I be doing something for the lack of MG?

Since I flushed the plants yesterday with the tap water because I was told I had too much N should I re flush them again after I have adjusted the PH levels in my water?

the first photo looks like the pic in my book discribing lack of Manganese. the secondary nutrients are Magnesium, Calcium, and sulfer. Micro Nutrients are Zinc,Maganese, iron and more. The book recomends for lack of Manganese - 6.5 ph or less soil, Leach soil and add a complete cheleted micro nutirent formula.
I only comment here because i am having problems myself with secondary nutrients and have been reading this book like crazy (medical growers bible, by Cervantes) trying to fingure out what is wrong with my plants...and i have nailed it down to to much calcium and am adding epson salts now to the water.
hope the above info helps some
tcbud

WHITEWIDOW66 said:

It looks like u have a mg def

Click to expand...

dont think that is a mg issue CLICK

Dr Nick said:

Thanks everyone for all of the help!! I hadn't been checking PH levels prior but I went out today and picked up a PH meter and I'm getting a reading of 7.3 on the water I use. From what I read that number seems a bit too high? If that is the case what PH level should I be shooting for in my water? Should I also be checking the PH levels of my soil? Will correcting the PH levels in my water correct the MG deficiency or in addition to correcting the PH levels of my water should I be doing something for the lack of MG?

Since I flushed the plants yesterday with the tap water because I was told I had too much N should I re flush them again after I have adjusted the PH levels in my water?

Click to expand...

just a tad high Doc...6.3-6.8 is ideal for soil.
run a gallon or so of ph adjusted water throoough your pot and check the runoff ph. That will give you a general idea of what ph your plants are contending with.

TWO DEFFECTS IT COULD BE
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency:
Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.



1.Zinc Deficiencies:
Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the inter-veinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients, lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc defeciency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.