How long until seedlings appear?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

nycdiesel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2008
Messages
55
Reaction score
15
I placed seeds with 1/8" tap root 1/4" below soil thursday night, it's monday about the same time and still nothing!



Last time i did this it took only 2 days, it's 4 days later :holysheep:

How long does it normally take for seedlings to appear? :confused:
 
That seems like a little longer than normal... Just be sure to provide them with optimum conditions. I always like to keep the soil warm until the break the surface. Keep a light on them for heat or put the on a heating pad. In short, play by the books.

Seeds can take a long time to pop the surface in some cases. I've heard of people waiting a month. I've waited even longer... Not sure how long, but about 2 months into a grow I had a seedling sprout. So, just be patient and you will be rewarded! :ccc:
 
:yeahthat: i thought i tossed a seed away a few days that had been in soil for about a week ,,any ways i must of tossed it into a plant pot by mistake when i was repotting and it just appeared over night a week or so later ,,,so have hope lol :peace:
 
nothing is ever easy around here :hairpull: good thing I grabbed some purple urkel :watchplant:
 
I don't what you have to be jealous of... your growing your own while i look at dirt and pay 450 a oz
 
Hmmm after germination, if it takes 24 hours I count them as dead.......... but I am a hydro man and they are alkways visible to me in the rockwool..... and sometimes I have to pull off their shell..... but even when I did soil, I would let the tap root grow an inch or so and plant the tap root down and the plant top at the surface, so I would never really miss them..../shrug.. might work for you.

Just gotta be gentle.
 
I think they were are to wet ... Rapid Rooters hold ALOT of water! :spit:

I put 10 beans with 1/2 inch tap root directly into FFOF i'm going to see how that works out.

I have another 10 beans with 1/8 tap root that i'll let keep in paper towels until first set of leaves appear then drop them into the FFOF.

IF the first 30 in rapid rooters don't show soon it looks like i'm going to have to order more seeds. :hairpull:

You think a humidity dome is essential? I've had mine under my t-5's (4-5 inches - its warm) and have kept the soil damp. I'm going to run to the store to grab some plastic wrap now.

I'll keep in touch wish me luck

You guys make it look so easy!
Do you guys have a green thumb or is mine just up my ***? LOL :huh:
 
i dug up a couple of seeds. They were being eaten by tiny clear or white bugs.

i have never seen them before. The bugs are tiny! I didn't even notice them until i looked at seed with magnifying glass. These tiny bugs don't like light. They are really really tiny i can't tell if there white or clear. They were about the size of a pin point. The only bugs i've ever had problems with are actually lady bugs. The whole neighborhood is swarmed with them.

Is it possible lady bugs laid eggs in dirt and baby lady bugs are eating my seedlings? I thought lady bugs only ate other bugs, maybe babies feed on roots and small plants? Unless lady bugs are so popular because these lil ******* are everywhere!

The seeds had cracked and taproot was almost 2 inches long. A couple had leaves trying to push through soil. I dug around to expose leaves and added cayenne pepper to top of soil ( looked up organic pesticides bugs HATE it ). The next morning the seedlings had been sheared off at soil level.


I took some infested soil and seeds and put in ziplock with fresh carrots so i can see what these lil ******* look like full grown.

In the end only one seedling (wilson) wasn't infested. Lets hope i should have name it Wilma. Ordered more seeds from dopeseeds i'm going to bleach room and buy 1000 lady bugs let them go hopefully they will clean up any survivors.

I'm wondering if my foxfarms ocean forest was contaminated when i bought it from local hydro store. I did buy the last couple of bags they had left, maby they got infested there.

PISSED
 
LOL 450 an oz? holy **** canada rules lol.
duke haze for 160 here. although i can find you an ounce around here from anywhere between 120 and 220. i usually pay for the 200 stuff and i havnt seen crap herbs in about a year and a bit.
 
nycdiesel said:
i dug up a couple of seeds. They were being eaten by tiny clear or white bugs.

i have never seen them before. The bugs are tiny! I didn't even notice them until i looked at seed with magnifying glass. These tiny bugs don't like light. They are really really tiny i can't tell if there white or clear. They were about the size of a pin point. The only bugs i've ever had problems with are actually lady bugs. The whole neighborhood is swarmed with them.

Is it possible lady bugs laid eggs in dirt and baby lady bugs are eating my seedlings? I thought lady bugs only ate other bugs, maybe babies feed on roots and small plants? Unless lady bugs are so popular because these lil ******* are everywhere!

The seeds had cracked and taproot was almost 2 inches long. A couple had leaves trying to push through soil. I dug around to expose leaves and added cayenne pepper to top of soil ( looked up organic pesticides bugs HATE it ). The next morning the seedlings had been sheared off at soil level.


I took some infested soil and seeds and put in ziplock with fresh carrots so i can see what these lil ******* look like full grown.

In the end only one seedling (wilson) wasn't infested. Lets hope i should have name it Wilma. Ordered more seeds from dopeseeds i'm going to bleach room and buy 1000 lady bugs let them go hopefully they will clean up any survivors.

I'm wondering if my foxfarms ocean forest was contaminated when i bought it from local hydro store. I did buy the last couple of bags they had left, maby they got infested there.

PISSED
do a quick search here for "fungus gnats"... might be th larva feeding on your baby's roots.. ;)
 
do a quick search here for "fungus gnats"... might be th larva feeding on your baby's roots..

Looked up those gnats. The gnat larva look like worms, what i'm dealing with are round. they look like tiny white lady bugs. I know w/o a pic u can't help much but thank you.


LOL 450 an oz? holy **** canada rules lol.
duke haze for 160 here. although i can find you an ounce around here from anywhere between 120 and 220. i usually pay for the 200 stuff and i havnt seen crap herbs in about a year and a bit.

I know! last time i was in canada I saw a guy wearing a cap with flowers smoking a joint right outside the mall. I asked him for a $20 and he gave me a bud that was about a 1/4oz. I gave him the 20 when he handed me the bud I thought he made a mistake, I took it and ran.

In NYC if its sinsemilla its at least 300 an oz. Anything decent is 350 anything exquisite is 450 although the delivery services charge up to 550.
 
hXXp://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/indoor-garden-pests.html#fungusgnats
 
Hick said:
hXXp://www.jasons-indoor-guide-to-organic-and-hydroponics-gardening.com/indoor-garden-pests.html#fungusgnats

Hick your amazing -

On the link u showed i found this

Predatory Nematodes

There is no more natural pest control than this. Predatory nematodes are beneficial, microscopic organisms. They cost about 20 dollars for a little sponge that they say holds a million nematodes. You simply soak the sponge in room temperature water and either water it into your plants or use it in your hydroponics nutrient reservior. The nematodes will roam your soil killing thrip, gnat, and mite larvae. If you go this route, I recommend you pay the extra money for next day shipping to protect your living mail.

Those seedlings are dead now only 1 wasn't infested. Dopeseeds say they are shipping tomorrow. I'm going to pick these up and add them to my soil in the beginning as a preventive measure.

Thanks ALOT
 
Lady bugs are a beneficial pest, they bear no harm on plants, they are predatory and often added to gardens to combat the real pests! namely spidermites.

this is from another post, im trying to help people get past the easiest part of growing, germination. enjoy!

First off, you have to know what the conditions are that need to be met before a seed will begin its journey into adolescence and finally adulthood.

here they are:
1. Heat
2. Humidity
3. Darkness
4. Moisture
5. Genetics (i dont believe this has nearly an impact as the others)
Im going to explain how this works, and what you can do to better your odds.

First off, why do we use paper towels or cups of water to get them to crack?
Well, my theory is this, impatience, and wasting soil, or medium.

We dont want to waste time planting a seed if we arent sure it will pop, right?
waste of soil, water and time, not to mention space that could be used for the ones that did pop.

So, we put them in paper towels, that way we can peep in from time to time to give ourselves the satisfaction of seeing the progress. Not to mention, if some dont pop, we can disgard them and do away with the hassle of preparing more medium, imo.

This to me is pointless, and this is why.
As ive said before, transplanting a plant in veg for example will require about a week to recover, and resume growth.

Why wouldnt a freshly transplanted seed with a taproot from a paper towel, or cup of water do the same thing?

Well, it does. You see, a seed with a taproot is essentially an infant plant, but a plant nonetheless. So germing in paper towels or water until it has a taproot and then transplanting (keyword here) will stress the little guy, causing it to have to re acclimate to its new environment.

Seeds contain enough energy on their own for about a week, they wont use any nutes at this point, they just want to get the main stem to the surface, that way, the cotyledon (first set of leaves) can find the light to begin making energy to promote further growth.

So, whats the best way to achieve this? And a near perfect germ rate? Well, this is how i do it, the only seeds that arent going to pop, are just that, they wouldnt pop if best conditions were met regardless of what you do. The seed may be "defective" or premature, damaged, whatever. So we need to meet all the conditions in order to pop all viable seeds.

You will need to prepare you medium. (soil, soil less mix, peat pellets, or rockwool. Now, im a soil guy, this method will work with any medium, but i find soil to be what mama earth thinks is most natural, so i use that.

You are in soil, so im gonna give you my way in soil.

1. fill container's with soil, all the way to the brim.
2. Get to the store and grab some Distilled water, couple of gallons, just to have.
3. Once your containers are full to the brim, water the soil, heavily until you see a good bit of runoff. (make sure containers have adequate drainage)
4. You will notice the soil settle a bit, giving you about 1/2-1 inch of space between the top layer and the rim of the pot/container.
5. Once saturated, place pots under your light source. Ventilation at this point is not needed.
6. Walk away, what we are doing here is allowing the light to warm the soil, cold soil may shock the seed, and either slow, or inhibit growth.
7. Give a few hours to rise in temp, feel with your finger to determine when the soil feels warm, or at least not cold.
8. Once all of this is done, we are ready to sow our seeds!
9. Using a sterile pointy object (i like a philips head screw driver, cleaned in alcohol) Make a hole about 1/4-1/2 inch deep in the center of the container. Ive found that any deeper will cause the seed to fight its way further up, potentially causing it to give up do to having to use so much of its valuable and precious limitied enery. I usually put tape on the screw driver to indicate about 3/8 of an inch and where i need to stop so i dont make the hole too deep. Not to mention, all the holes will be uniformly deep, same depth.
10. Using tweezers, or a small item capable of doing the job, CAREFULLY pick up the seed so that the tip of the seed is sideways (picture a football sitting on the ground) That is how you want the seed to rest in the bottom of the hole.
11. Carefully, using both thumbs and index fingers, close the soil around the seed. Dont pack it too tight, use your judgement. We want to eliminate light from the equation. (Also, alot of potting soil contains small pieces of wood or clumps of soil that if big enough will not allow the seed to reach the surface, simply to big for the seedling to push out of the way to reach the surface. So make sure it has a clear path to the surface by only having to fight its way through soil and not rocks, wood chips, debris or other matter comonly found in bagged premixed potting soil.

OK, Now weve sown our seeds, what next? Well, weve met a few condtions already, darkness, moisture, heat (from our light source) One thing we need to add is humidity! 100% humidity! We achieve this buy covering the container with a clear material that will lock in humidity and even raise the temp above the soil even more which is a good thing for seedlings. I use clear plastic bottles, cut in half, then placed directly over the seed on the top of the soil. You can use saran wrap, it works exactly the same, i dont like saran wrap tho because the seedling can grow into it if your not watching it, or at work or something, it happens fast, so to make sure i have the clearance, i use bottles.

12. once the first set of leaves are fully opened, remove your plastic bottle or saran wrap, the plant needs Co2 at this point, and you can leave them on longer if you like, just remove the plastic covering from time to time to get some new air in there! But after a week, you should have all the plastic removed.

within 1.5-3 days from sow, you will see that all have sprouted and should be showing the first leaf set

Your done! seed is planted, all conditions have been met and the seed is beginning to realize that the weather is pretty nice outside, and WILL open up to begin its journey.

to date, ive germed about 80 seeds, 100% success. Some of the seedlings were deformed, or mutated or even just stopped growing, but this is out of our control and due to genetics or deformalities. If a seed doesnt pop, then it would never have in the first place, nothing you could do would change that.

I know this is a lot to take in, and we havent even broken the surface, the rest of the journey all the way to harvest is just beginning. So is a new set of rules to follow in order to get those sweet buds. (for example, pretty much the opposite of what we want for a seedling is what we want for a more mature plant, less humidity, less heat but not cold, more on that when your ready.

Sorry if im a little to detailed, i said i would make it smoother than my post, but im bored, and i want everyone to share the same success that myself, and experienced growers already know. (besides, germing SHOULD be the easiest part of the process!

Good Luck Friend!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top