This always happens late in flower

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Lesso

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I always seem to get cal or mag deficiencies late in flower. This time it started at 49 days. This has happened when i have used gh 3 part or floranova 1 part. I typically run 1500 to 1200 ppm in ro water during flower. My ph will fluctuate between 5.6 to 6.2. I dont know how to treat other than flush the plants and dump my res. It didnt work this time however. Is there a way to prevent this in the future. Should i ramp up the cal mag around week 7? Im certain its hurting my yields. The perfectionist in me is irked to say the least.

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I was having the exact same problem not sure if I have figured it out yet or not wish I had more advice for you there's lots of smart people on here though somebody should be able to identify it
 
I start Cal/Mag in week 2 flower. why wait till its too late?. Did you not see signs a couple weeks ago?

tcabs
 
I hope some one can. It isnt all that distressing but it is frustrating.
 
Lesso it looks like your Ph is getting off, more than likely due to salt build up in the medium. When you see this with or without tip burn you need to flush the medium to clear the salts because the pH in the root zone is off. Also try cutting your bloom nutes by 20% next run, as long as they don't look hungry keep it that way....that will help with salt build up. Or do a mid flower flush as you begin to take the N away and replace it with P and K for the final bulk, that way the medium wont have excess N left over and not being used. I hope this was helpful. Peace

Edit: In error I never asked what medium your using....if hydro it's the same issue, just easier to handle and it corrects very quickly.
 
Some folks start the cal mag much earlier, do you think that is it?
 
Curious to know what is the problem... it could happen with anyone of us!
 
the GH 3 part has cal/mag so if you see it late in flower, it is mostly a ph problem and nute lockout rather than a lack of it.
 
I'm going with pH issue too. I have one plant with similar leaves and it's from something I gave the plant(chem bloom booster in an all organic grow).
 
All good info. thanks all. Kraven, I am in hydro i will flush again, re fill my resivior, and run lower ppms. Umbra i think its more ph too. Bombbp, i am using bud candy but i have been since week 2.
 
All good info. thanks all. Kraven, I am in hydro i will flush again, re fill my resivior, and run lower ppms. Umbra i think its more ph too. Bombbp, i am using bud candy but i have been since week 2.

All I meant is my booster threw my pH off and my plant looks like yours. Didn't mean to imply you were giving yours something that was throwing yours off though I do believe you have a pH related problem. Sorry I wasn't more clear:).
 
It's pH..... more than likely he had a rapid change inside the recommended range of 5.7-6.2. I'm not saying his pH is outa whack, but a rapid change will do this every time. I run a 55 gal rez with a 45 gal ATO so as the res needs water the ATO [automatic top off] keeps the rez at the right volume....that also makes me have a positive ramp from 5.7 - 6.2 over 7-10 days, at 10 days I don't change the rez and drop the pH back to 5.7. I do an add back of 20% of all the nutes which drops my pH again to around 6.0....and bumps my ppm up about 200....not a huge change and I will let that run until the pH hits 6.2 or the ppm's drop below 800. Then a rez change but I run it from 5.9 -6.3 for the rest of flower using the above method. My average flowering ppms run around 1200. Hope this is helpful lesso, you girls look great, they are just doing the pH bow for a minute.
 
Lesso! I have had this, it is caused by many factors that stress the plant in late flowering, and plants at that stage are easy to show stress. Last time I tried I had 4 res's trying to combat this issue and it turned out that the plants were much happier with higher ec as i progressed, so that I would get to week 5-6 close to 2000ppm. Another factor is the sudden fluctuation in ph and/or fert concentrations. all other factors like temps and humidity have more effect on the plant in flowering, and there is the factor of salt build up and what else. What I am saying is that it is somewhat normal to have some issues in later flowering, it is like you are trying to keep the plant alive when it is trying to die. I use the following guidelines only for reference: week1 1200ppm, week 2 1400, W3 1600, W4 1800, W5 2000 maintain it there until ripening then i decrease gradually until harvest for 1 week. This is very dependent on strain and fert type, but I have found that doing so helped a lot in forming more bud
 
I always add Cal-Mag during flowering when using GH 3 part.
 
It's pH..... more than likely he had a rapid change inside the recommended range of 5.7-6.2. I'm not saying his pH is outa whack, but a rapid change will do this every time. I run a 55 gal rez with a 45 gal ATO so as the res needs water the ATO [automatic top off] keeps the rez at the right volume....that also makes me have a positive ramp from 5.7 - 6.2 over 7-10 days, at 10 days I don't change the rez and drop the pH back to 5.7. I do an add back of 20% of all the nutes which drops my pH again to around 6.0....and bumps my ppm up about 200....not a huge change and I will let that run until the pH hits 6.2 or the ppm's drop below 800. Then a rez change but I run it from 5.9 -6.3 for the rest of flower using the above method. My average flowering ppms run around 1200. Hope this is helpful lesso, you girls look great, they are just doing the pH bow for a minute.
Great info. I did have a rapid swing of the ph. Spot on
 
Lesso! I have had this, it is caused by many factors that stress the plant in late flowering, and plants at that stage are easy to show stress. Last time I tried I had 4 res's trying to combat this issue and it turned out that the plants were much happier with higher ec as i progressed, so that I would get to week 5-6 close to 2000ppm. Another factor is the sudden fluctuation in ph and/or fert concentrations. all other factors like temps and humidity have more effect on the plant in flowering, and there is the factor of salt build up and what else. What I am saying is that it is somewhat normal to have some issues in later flowering, it is like you are trying to keep the plant alive when it is trying to die. I use the following guidelines only for reference: week1 1200ppm, week 2 1400, W3 1600, W4 1800, W5 2000 maintain it there until ripening then i decrease gradually until harvest for 1 week. This is very dependent on strain and fert type, but I have found that doing so helped a lot in forming more bud
Great advice. Do you run co2? My tips started burning on this strain at 1550 ppm. I backed it down a bit and got a sudden spike when i mis-measured the nutes. Also swung the ph like crazy.
 
Great advice. Do you run co2? My tips started burning on this strain at 1550 ppm. I backed it down a bit and got a sudden spike when i mis-measured the nutes. Also swung the ph like crazy.

No co2, some strains cannot take high ec and the type of ferts is basic. Too much N in any fert will cause many problems, I use fertilisers from raw chemicals and mix myself giving me more flexibility. It is also very good to increase ppm gradually I was adding it like daily, doing a lot of daily analysis trying to figure out what is missing and trying different things in different res's, also the phosphate ion is very tricky to maintain and i found calcium to be way way overrated as a problem especially with tap water.
 
Zem....do you find as i do that most problems in hydro stem from ph?
 

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