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Old 12-08-2017, 09:52 PM   #41
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Bbp will take some pix of peyote purple x dc under the spydrx led, seriously fat leaves
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:20 PM   #42
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Bbp will take some pix of peyote purple x dc under the spydrx led, seriously fat leaves
I can't wait to see them.
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Old 12-09-2017, 03:54 AM   #43
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As you can see from this professionally made instructional pic I have negative(black) from one chip going to the positive(red) of another chip, then the negative from that chip to the positive of the next chip and so on. You'll be left with a negative lead and a positive lead at the the opposite ends of the led string. Positive goes to the positive(red) on the driver, negative to the negative(black).

The white wires are for your potentiometer.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:02 AM   #44
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Most of the time your AC input wires are blue (N) and brown (L). These are the wires that you connect your power supply to. Sometimes they can be white (N) and black (L) and just to be super confusing sometimes they're both white, which is the case with my driver.

Just keep in mind white and blue go together and black and brown go together.

If at any point you'd like detailed pics just ask.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:07 AM   #45
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Here's the 110v ac piug I used for a power supply. Blue wire to the N, brown to the L. If you have black and white wires in your plug then white to N, black to L. If you wire these backwards you'll burn up your driver.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:12 AM   #46
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I used these to connect everything to make all the parts detachable. You should put your L and positive wires on the positive side unlike me who wI red them backwards for the pic. So red to positive on output side, black or brown(L) to positive on the input side and black to negative on the output, white or blue (N) to negative on the input side.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:14 AM   #47
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So here's what you'll have altogether...light strip, driver and power supply.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:16 AM   #48
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Light strip plugs into the output on the driver, power supply plugs into the input on the driver.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:20 AM   #49
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Driver is dimmable but you'll have to add a potentiometer. I did solder this piece in place. Plus to the middle prong, negative to either of the others....most people would choose right prong but I went with left because it's on the same side as the drivers neg wire lol.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:21 AM   #50
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Here she is on dim
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:22 AM   #51
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Full blast
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:24 AM   #52
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If I wasnt clear enough or you have any questions or want more pics of a certain process just ask.
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:49 AM   #53
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peyote purple x deep chunk
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:47 AM   #54
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That's a beauty umbra! Here's one of mine.
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Old 12-09-2017, 08:32 AM   #55
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Switched out drivers and connected a triac dimmer with a remote. Now, I can remotely dim, turn on/off, set at 25, 50, 75 and 100% and make my own presets. I can also dim with the knob. Driver is only 300ma which makes my light only 14w on 100%. Not as efficient or effective but cool beans nonetheless.
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:38 AM   #56
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Uh oh

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F322594455002
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Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM   #57
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In reference to post #45

It maybe more appropriate to have the female connector on the power cord end. As its pictured, it appears the "-" , which is typically the sleeve of the connector, is wired to the line wire. Not good. If it were the female connector it would be a little more protected.
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Old Yesterday, 04:42 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by screwdriver View Post
In reference to post #45

It maybe more appropriate to have the female connector on the power cord end. As its pictured, it appears the "-" , which is typically the sleeve of the connector, is wired to the line wire. Not good. If it were the female connector it would be a little more protected.
Check post 46...I explained I had them wired backwards in the pic. I was building and taking pics and screwed up.
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