The 400 watt pound

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EMERALDRECTANGL

Growin GreeN :)
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:icon_smile: I have heard many different people refer to the industry standard is about 1 gram per watt. I have consistently pulled around a pound (give or take 1-2 oz) off of one 400 watt light bulb. I have grown for a decade and done everything from Aero to Old school. Closet to commercial. I have gotten out of the production side and now sell supplies to growers. My garden is on the smaller side but what I lack in space I make up for in know how. I have seen many ways to get a good yield using various products available. I have come up with my own mishmash of products that I believe to be among the best in terms of recipes. I understand YOU might not agree with my feeding regiment,but if you can't say anything nice, don't say anything. I really DON'T want anyone saying use GH or AN or organics are better or anything like that. I DO want people with knowledge to give me their input. I would love to have a discussion on my method. All measurements given are ml per Gal!! It is on a FEED,FEED,WATER schedule Here we go my recipe is as follows-
Clones:
Media- Delta 4 No Hole. 4 clones per block.
Clonex Rooting Gel. Straight cuts on the bottom.
Light Cycle: 18-6
I have rooted clones in my dome in 7-10 days depending on strain.
Mist the dome (NOT THE PLANTS) daily; just water
Teens:
Media: Fafard Urban A Mix in a 3.5" Starter pot.
Cutting Edge: Micro 5ml Grow 5ml Bloom 5ml
Orca: 10ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Hygrozyme: 10ml
Calimagic: 5ml
Amifort: 2ml
Light Cycle :18-6
I typically can leave these ladies in their starter pots for about 2 weeks before they start to get root bound. Depending on strain sometimes more sometimes less.
Full Veggies:
Media: Fafard Urban A Mix in a 8"x8" White Rose Pot
Cutting Edge: Micro 8ml Grow 15ml Bloom 5ml
Orca: 10ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Hygrozyme: 10ml
Calimagic: 5ml
Amifort: 2ml
Light Cycle :16-8
I veg under a t-5 for 4-6 weeks depending on where my flower room is. I have to top these ladies multiple times just to prevent them from growing into my light. Make sure you keep a close eye on these babies because they grow like crazy!!
Transition:
Media:Fafard Urban A Mix in a 8"x8" White Rose Pot
Cutting Edge:Cutting Edge: Micro 8ml Grow 15ml Bloom 8ml
Orca: 10ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Amifort: 2ml
Bombadier Sugar: 3ml
Light Cycle: 14-10
I will keep my ladies in transition for about a week.
Early Flower: (Weeks 1-2)Flower Setting Stage
Media: Fafard Urban A Mix in a 8"x8" White Rose Pot
Cutting Edge: Micro 8ml Grow 5ml Bloom 15ml
Orca: 5ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Hygrozyme: 10ml
Calimagic: 5ml
Amifort: 2ml
Bombadier Sugar: 3ml
Open Sesame: 1/2 tsp per gal.
Light Cycle :12-12
Prune off ALL the under story that will be in the lower canopy. Those flowers never get very big and just take resources from your prized tops. These plants will grow double in size when you flip them. Make sure you have ample height for your ladies to grow. For long lanky sativas use LST or super cropping to avoid plants growing too tall.
Mid Flower: (Weeks 3-5)Flower Bulking Stage
Media: Fafard Urban A Mix in a 8"x8" White Rose Pot
Cutting Edge: Micro 8ml Bloom 20ml
Orca: 5ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Hygrozyme: 10ml
Amifort: 2ml
Bombadier Sugar: 3ml
Big Bud:8ml
Light Cycle :12-12
Early in this phase you should place your bamboo supports or trellis. Your tops will start to really bulk up and they have pretty much set their space. This is the key phase for putting on weight, make sure your plants are happy and healthy. Don't go over 1400 ppm!!
Late Flower: (Weeks 6-7)Flower Ripening Stage
Media: Fafard Urban A Mix in a 8"x8" White Rose Pot
Cutting Edge: Micro 8ml Bloom 20ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Bombadier Sugar: 3ml
Bloombastic:2ml
Light Cycle :12-12
This is really when oil production is kicked up. Make sure you have ample P and K for proper flower set. This stage is often overlooked as people are trying to still put on more weight. Using certain products for example shooting powder actually causes the plant to "reflower" which WILL degrade strength of overall product by delaying maturation.
Final Flower: (Week 8)Flower Ripening Stage
Media: Fafard Urban A Mix in a 8"x8" White Rose Pot
Cutting Edge: Micro 4ml Bloom 10ml
Drip Clean: .4ml
Bombadier Sugar: 3ml
Bloombastic:4ml
Light Cycle :12-12
The last week of flower before the great flush I water heavily with Florakleen to flush out my media. I then dial back my base nutes to 2/3 strength and amp up the bloombastic to 4ml. If you do not flush before doing this you will notice a burn almost immediately. Some of my friends don't do this increase, but I swear by it.
Flush: (Week 9) Flower Cleansing Phase
Florakleen:10ml
Molasses: 1 TBS dissolved in 1 qt warm water
Light Cycle:12-12 for 4 days
!!LAST 3 DAYS NO LIGHT!!
My final process is something I had been taught by an old farmer who has grown more weight than most people will ever see. He showed me how much a plant can kick up its oil production if it believes it has lost its chance to reproduce. By doing so the stress response is amazing! You will have tops that "glow" under black light because of the thricome production. Basically water the hell out of them before switching the lights off for good. You will notice in three days time your containers will be completely dry, some plants might even be wilting a bit. But its definitely worth it in the long run.
There you have it. Any questions or comments please let me know. Will post pics as they are taken.
Pic 1 is 4.5 weeks into flower 2 is 4 weeks 3 is 4 weeks from a different angle

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There is no miracle recipe.

If yours is working then use it.
 
Growdude said:
There is no miracle recipe.

If yours is working then use it.

This does work FOR ME. And I agree if someone else used this to a T they might not get the same results. I just thought I would share what I have found out over my decade of gardening.:cool:
 
Much bliged yur sharing pilgrem but reckon I do well by my ways like ya said but interestin just how folk dive into this hobby. Fillin yur pouch be the end gaol everyone lookin to do. Ifin it works fur ya use it ifin not loose it ;)

BWD
 
Saw this same post on the farm, friendly guy sharing his recipe or salesman?
 
Iron Emmett said:
Saw this same post on the farm, friendly guy sharing his recipe or salesman?
Actually decided that THCfarmer can suck one. They are all very rude and insulting. Not to mention they know everything about plants and cannot be told about anything new or better.
I won't lie dude I am a salesmen. I work at a greenhouse supply company. That being said I am not trying to sell anyone anything. Most of my products come from different manufacturers. I posted this formula on multiple sites just to see what kind of feedback I can get. I have a small space to garden and I have figured out how to maximize said area. I am just trying to help others make the most of their space. It's all love man, after all isn't that why this forum exists?:icon_smile:
 
I feel ya man, sounds good to me, i didnt mean any disrespect or insult, im just stand offish of new people with great success stories about products or formulas.

That being said, Welcome and hope you enjoy it here.
 
Welcome to MP...we are unlike THCfarmer or those other Tool Sheds. Thanks for sharing.
 
Yual both bring to the truth and again welcome fires now that yual be able to straighten eyebrows ;)

BWD
 
Welcome Emerald.

Can you tell me about why you use and what exactly is Hygrozyme?

Enjoy your stay.
 
Hygrozyme is a QMI medical grade enzyme that is used to remove dead cellulose. It also aids in turning accumulated nutrient salts into plant available forms. It was invented to sterilize equipment without toxic cleansers. I have used several kinds of enzymes and I really think hygrozyme is the best for two reasons. 1. It is the only enzymatic product available with a medical grade certification. 2. The Styrofoam test, hygrozyme beats cannazyme,sensizyme, even homemade EM-1! I don't have anything other than my OWN personal experiences to base this off of but I have done tests with plants A.Enzyme B.Control Plant and A always grows faster with less time between waterings, thus the treated plants are more efficient.
 
Iron Emmett said:
I feel ya man, sounds good to me, i didnt mean any disrespect or insult, im just stand offish of new people with great success stories about products or formulas.

That being said, Welcome and hope you enjoy it here.

I'll post pics. What I say is truth, and if I am given the chance I can show a very effective method to growing good crops in small spaces.:hubba: just a grower trying to help my fellow gardeners. I have dedicated my life to growing and believe it is the only way to a sustainable future.:holysheep:
 
Way to over complicated man. Good lord. I get frightening yields, from,

Tap water
GH micro/bloom
Sunshine #4

No PH'ing, no additives

If me and you got the exact same yields, and with me being in Wa. I would absolutely crush your net cost per gram. Too many over think what goes in. You might have good yields and healthy plants. But at the end of the day, its the cost per gram that is the end all number. How you get there, is up to the grower. Just my experience. But thanx for sharing and welcome! :)
 
Nouvelle, you running Lucas again?

I need to buy you coffee and pick your brain for a bit.


Don't mean to hijack emerald. Very informative posts. Plants look real nice.
 
Reverse Lucas. What we used to run in the 500gal old hot tub Rez. 2tb micro per 1.5gal of H20 in veg and 2tb micro/1tb bloom per 1.5gal in bloom. Can adjust up down either way.
 
Emerald--Just curious, if you are trying to max out your space and get the best harvest, why are you running your veg lights 18/6 rather than 24/7?

Nouvelle--I'm going to give the reverse Lucas a try on my next batch of nutes.
 
EMERALDRECTANGL said:
Hygrozyme is a QMI medical grade enzyme that is used to remove dead cellulose. It also aids in turning accumulated nutrient salts into plant available forms. It was invented to sterilize equipment without toxic cleansers. I have used several kinds of enzymes and I really think hygrozyme is the best for two reasons. 1. It is the only enzymatic product available with a medical grade certification. 2. The Styrofoam test, hygrozyme beats cannazyme,sensizyme, even homemade EM-1! I don't have anything other than my OWN personal experiences to base this off of but I have done tests with plants A.Enzyme B.Control Plant and A always grows faster with less time between waterings, thus the treated plants are more efficient.


Thank you, that is more info then i could find on the web. It isn't classified as organic is it?
Thanks again.
 
nouvellechef said:
Way to over complicated man. Good lord. I get frightening yields, from,

Tap water
GH micro/bloom
Sunshine #4

No PH'ing, no additives

If me and you got the exact same yields, and with me being in Wa. I would absolutely crush your net cost per gram. Too many over think what goes in. You might have good yields and healthy plants. But at the end of the day, its the cost per gram that is the end all number. How you get there, is up to the grower. Just my experience. But thanx for sharing and welcome! :)


I know lots of guys running Lucas too. The thing about WA is you cant just grow, you have to be medical. I haven't had a card for a while now. And just wait and see the last pics. I have run minimal nutes with good success but this is all headstash and I don't mind chippin in a little extra for myself.:cool:
 
Rosebud said:
Thank you, that is more info then i could find on the web. It isn't classified as organic is it?
Thanks again.

Hygrozyme does in fact have an OMRI listing.
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
Emerald--Just curious, if you are trying to max out your space and get the best harvest, why are you running your veg lights 18/6 rather than 24/7?

Nouvelle--I'm going to give the reverse Lucas a try on my next batch of nutes.


I guess I am unsure of the question. Do you mean 24-0? I am pretty sure that is what you were referring to. The reason I personally do not run my veg lights all the time because it is unnatural for the plant and hinders their potential. Unless you live in the Arctic Circle or Antarctica there is no place on Earth that has sunlight around the clock. Plants photosynthesize during the day and produce carbs and sugars. Those need to be transported to your rhizosphere and utilized so that things happen in proportion. Just think how much less effective you are as a person when you do not get sleep, now picture that over a few weeks time. I do know some folks who say they getting better results by never turning their lights off but hey different strokes for different folks.:) :)
 

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