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Old 11-16-2016, 04:40 PM   #21
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pic #7---have you looked underside of those leaves with a magnifying glass for spider mite
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:49 PM   #22
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yeah there is no infestation of any sort in my plants im glad to say. Bud growth is great seeing a lot of improvement, they are liking the higher ec levels
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Old 11-17-2016, 07:26 PM   #23
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Default Plastic plants

I thought to take a couple of pics from my GH fed plants, they look beautiful, like plastic plants, only real, but their bud development in less than i would expect. I also took a pic of my veg space i have the same plastic look, only there i want all this foliage and i did that with my diy recipe. i threw there a decorative plant named asparagus spragneri something, it was having hard time but it loved its new neighbours growing new shoots rapidly... ahhh it is always nice to add some green to a thread right?
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Old 11-22-2016, 02:08 PM   #24
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They look like they are doing much better. I use the 3part Jungle Juice which is similar to the GH Flora. I normally cut back the "grow" part over the first 3 weeks of flower until at the beginning of week 4, I cut off the grow and have bumped up the micro and bloom. I try to maintain an average of 1100-1200ppm for lighter feeding plants and up to 1400ppm for heavier feeding plants. If you are still giving them the grow part, it may be too much nitrogen at this point.
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Old 11-22-2016, 10:13 PM   #25
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HP I am using flora micro as my source of N no more flora grow at this point, i think that if i ever grow with them, i will raise the pk much earlier, but i think that i will get back to mixing my own which is the better way for me and i am using gh only for reference and comparison
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:13 AM   #26
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Default Opinions?

I have one res where I have been trying a lot of stuff, where i stressed the plants a lot, and the y griegas are just all purple now. What I am worried about, is that the purple has now reached the sweet leaves and progressing inwards to the buds, but the plant is at 65, I wanted to go to 75 breeder says 80-90, no way this plant is going to 90. I am considering chopping this one and releasing it from its misery at 65 days, it has dense nugs i do not want to compromise, yet i want the best effect out of them... also considering chopping it gradually. Improving its feeding has proven a failure no matter what i tried

What would you do? Thanks
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:20 AM   #27
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Theres a pic of the bud, the leaves are so dark now there is very little photosynthesis except from the sweet leaf which is in turn going purple. It is the effect of the cold, Y Griega reacts by going purple, only this one is by far more affected than the others in other res, where they can take a longer period before the purple reaches the buds.
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Old 12-08-2016, 02:47 PM   #28
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I would let them go to 70 days myself depending on the look of the trichomes. I would bet the purple leaves are still doing more photosynthesis than you think, as long as they are still living. Its the yellow/gold/brown colors that mean no more chlorophyll. Have you looked at the trichs at this point?
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Old 12-08-2016, 03:10 PM   #29
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Hey Zem,
A frustrating battle of man against the "elements" ...been there done that for couple years, same problem you are having...slightly different plant reaction than yours but probably because of strain variations.

I took a slightly more aggressive approach through time, and would completely change my entire set-up...from media type, to nute mfg, to flushing regiments, to questioning my sanity....always with the same results, always starting at 4-5 weeks of flower, accelerating at 5-6 weeks.

Starts as small golden/yellow spots on lower older leaves, sporadically located on med. dark healthy leafs...works it's way up the plants in a haphazard manner till it settles on the top canopy, then consumes the fan leafs leaving the sugar leaf alone....then limp to the finish line, swearing to conquer the beast next time

My well water is 140ppm(.3ec), and 60-70ppm calcium according to the tester. I'm running Canna Pro coco, with House & Garden A+B base, with Epson and Drip-Clean...I'm now using ZERO CaMg additive. My base feed rates are 500-550 in veg, 750-900 in bud...that's after subtracting my water source. I also bump a small dose of KoolBloom starting at the 5th week, stopping at the 7th.

I run pressurized top feed Blumat drip systems on my rooms, separate rez's for veg/bud. I maintain 5.8-5.9ph in veg, and float to a stable 6.2 in bud. I never flush my coco, I don't have run-off. I keep my rez's at 60-65 F, with a cycled circulator pump...no air stones.

Gotta run, I'll stop back
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Old 12-08-2016, 03:13 PM   #30
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HP I think that i will wait but it is a day by day thing to make up my mind, I am worried from the purple buds. trichomes were still mostly clear 3-4 days ago, i will check tonight
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Old 12-09-2016, 09:16 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwanabud View Post
Hey Zem,
A frustrating battle of man against the "elements" ...been there done that for couple years, same problem you are having...slightly different plant reaction than yours but probably because of strain variations.

I took a slightly more aggressive approach through time, and would completely change my entire set-up...from media type, to nute mfg, to flushing regiments, to questioning my sanity....always with the same results, always starting at 4-5 weeks of flower, accelerating at 5-6 weeks.

Starts as small golden/yellow spots on lower older leaves, sporadically located on med. dark healthy leafs...works it's way up the plants in a haphazard manner till it settles on the top canopy, then consumes the fan leafs leaving the sugar leaf alone....then limp to the finish line, swearing to conquer the beast next time

My well water is 140ppm(.3ec), and 60-70ppm calcium according to the tester. I'm running Canna Pro coco, with House & Garden A+B base, with Epson and Drip-Clean...I'm now using ZERO CaMg additive. My base feed rates are 500-550 in veg, 750-900 in bud...that's after subtracting my water source. I also bump a small dose of KoolBloom starting at the 5th week, stopping at the 7th.

I run pressurized top feed Blumat drip systems on my rooms, separate rez's for veg/bud. I maintain 5.8-5.9ph in veg, and float to a stable 6.2 in bud. I never flush my coco, I don't have run-off. I keep my rez's at 60-65 F, with a cycled circulator pump...no air stones.

Gotta run, I'll stop back
bwanabud did you know the source of the problem? I came to different conclusions so far, my ph maintained at 5.5-5.8 ppm proving to be better at high levels in flowering up to 2000. I was finally able to see this issue beginning even in my GH ferts res. I am adding calcium oxide to see if it will do any good.
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:32 PM   #32
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checked the trichs again, i estimated it around 35% cloudy 65% clear, no amber whatsoever. this run has worn me down, learned so much in one intensive run, worth every minute and every effort
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Old 12-09-2016, 12:59 PM   #33
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which Micro GH are you using....... there's one for had water....... it has less calcium in it to start with........ are you adding any Epsom to your nutrient water?....... what is in your medium?
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Old 12-09-2016, 02:16 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Grower13 View Post
which Micro GH are you using....... there's one for had water....... it has less calcium in it to start with........ are you adding any Epsom to your nutrient water?....... what is in your medium?
Hey G13 I am using GH micro for hard water, and epsom salt is the only additive that i need apart from the ph-. However, I think that you got confused between the ongoing problem and the GH res. The problem is occurring in one of 4 different res's, that res has a diy mix of ferts with no GH in it. The GH res is looking good but the buds are a little bit smaller than the diy res's. I am making a side by side trial with different fert mixes, one of them is GH. I use growrocks flood and drain
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Old 12-09-2016, 03:06 PM   #35
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One of the things that stands out to me in all of our grow situations is that while there is a variety of mediums, a variety of nutes, a variety of growing methods, a variety of other variables, not all of these will work together with ease. It seems like there are certain mediums that only work well with certain nute regimens/brands/diy, and some strains that like only a certain nute regimen that is subject to variation from atmospheric conditions and/or medium, and/or etc.

What I mean is you can take one strain and put plants in different mediums, give them exactly the same everything, and still have some variation to the growth success of the plants in the different mediums, either because the medium/nute interaction has changed some of the parameters such as pH, or because the medium and the water don't have a favorable interaction for that plant... etc.

The key for that is to decide on a set of variables(grow methods, medium, and nutes, and then only vary the nute regimen/brand to see if you find the right nute setup for that single set of variables. Only make 1-2 changes per grow run so that you can know which changes were good and which were bad. I prefer to change only one thing per grow until I decide that method/nute/medium is either good or bad.

Having the ability to do multiple plants in different setups/variables will give you the results quicker as you can do a different variable change for each one to see what works better. I just hope you can keep up with all of it. I used to keep a diary of everything I did from day to day but since I found my favorite methods and nutes/medium, I don't do as much experimentation. But I still try things sometimes to adjust for the different strains. I still try to keep notes on changes made.
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Old 12-10-2016, 06:08 PM   #36
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One of the things that stands out to me in all of our grow situations is that while there is a variety of mediums, a variety of nutes, a variety of growing methods, a variety of other variables, not all of these will work together with ease. It seems like there are certain mediums that only work well with certain nute regimens/brands/diy, and some strains that like only a certain nute regimen that is subject to variation from atmospheric conditions and/or medium, and/or etc.

What I mean is you can take one strain and put plants in different mediums, give them exactly the same everything, and still have some variation to the growth success of the plants in the different mediums,
I think that the genetic variation among all the modern marijuana strains is likely to cause many of the anomalies that growers get among plants as well.
I have 5 seeds of the same strain, in the same soil, matched to the same brand soil nutes, receiving the same growing conditions, and still they manage to go their own way. Some get issues and some don't and some are stretching like heck and some aren't.
I've gotten more consistency from growing a variety of seeds.
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:02 AM   #37
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The only way to conquer that genetic variation is to get F3 or higher breeding. This rebreeding that produces the F2-5 offspring really narrows down the genetic profile so that there is less genetic variation. This produces a more stable phenotype among all the seeds. The bad thing is that this can often have hidden weaknesses in the phenotype such as susceptibility to disease or fungus. Or in some strains that I am seeing, the ability to clone becomes more difficult. I wonder if that is intentional by some breeders.
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Old 12-11-2016, 12:14 AM   #38
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Quote:
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The only way to conquer that genetic variation is to get F3 or higher breeding. This rebreeding that produces the F2-5 offspring really narrows down the genetic profile so that there is less genetic variation. This produces a more stable phenotype among all the seeds. The bad thing is that this can often have hidden weaknesses in the phenotype such as susceptibility to disease or fungus. Or in some strains that I am seeing, the ability to clone becomes more difficult. I wonder if that is intentional by some breeders.
I think that you mean the other way round, F1 seeds are the most stable and the variation becomes more as you progress to F2,3,4 and 5. Actually, one can only find F1 and F2 in the market, F3 and more are not worth buying.
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:26 AM   #39
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The only way to conquer that genetic variation is to get F3 or higher breeding. This rebreeding that produces the F2-5 offspring really narrows down the genetic profile so that there is less genetic variation. This produces a more stable phenotype among all the seeds. The bad thing is that this can often have hidden weaknesses in the phenotype such as susceptibility to disease or fungus. Or in some strains that I am seeing, the ability to clone becomes more difficult. I wonder if that is intentional by some breeders.
Lol...Sounds like something Monsanto would try.
But I remember when my brother used to breed dogs and had some champion irish setters and they kept developing all sorts of genetic defects from overbreeding and unintended consequences.
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:24 PM   #40
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I have the Y Griega at day 72 the trichomes are still clear like 90%, I can barely trace a trich that is going cloudy, I will have to wait one more week, my main concern, is the increasing persisting cold that only goes worse as we advance in winter.
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