Help me understand

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New2theGame

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The tips of my leaves are sagging down. I was thinking that I'm over feeding. Then I check my ph and it went up .5 in a night. ph on the rise low ppm? sagging leaf tips over feeding? gr..... Should I just relax and take a :chillpill: ?
 
Probably . . . "clawing" is pretty common, they may sag for a couple days after a feed and then straighten back up as they dry out a bit . . . or they may sag the whole grow with no real reason or ill effect . . . I've noticed they seem more likely to claw when RH is over 70% so check that, and watch for tip burn as a better indicator of overfeeding . . . and yes, pH drifting upward means your ppm is a bit low, but thats pretty common too - and you have young plants . . . I'd rather be a little under than a little over . . .

jm2c :48:
 
Leaf clawing is often a sign of overfeeding with too much N. just got rid of it myself.
 
how long did you allow your water/nute solution sit before putting it to use? nutes should have time to buffer before giving them to your plants. you dont HAVE to do this. but if you mix up a nute solution, and immediatly give it to your plants. your always gonna have a ph fluxuation after the first day, maybe even the second.


greeeeeeen mojo to ya
 
In hydro PH drift is a way of life. :) It is something you will see and do battle with until you learn to go with the flow of it. It happens because it is a ratio of chemical density and ballance between acidic chems and alkaline chems (both of which are needed and used by the plants). EVERYTHING affects this ballance in hydro setups. To me and my experience, the best results for my plants is when I set my PH so that it drifts across the acceptable range over a period of several days, then I reset it again.

As the plants grow and go through their changes, this PH drift will also change, and depending on the strain, can even reverse directions once the plants go from veg to bloom. If you don't have a high enough concentration of nutes in your rez this drift will be more pronounced and difficult to deal with. However it is a good sign that the plants are eating and drinking. It varies from strain to strain but the typical acceptable PH range for my grow is from 5.4 to 6.3. I try to get it so that every 3-5 days I am resetting the PH to one end or the other of this range. If I notice that it is happening too fast(within 2days) then I dump out my rez and do a fresh batch and increase the PPM by 100-200. Typically, when I have to refill my rez, I also add nutes to the water to maintain the nute level for 2-3 weeks, then I dump and refill it anyway so that the solution doesn't build up any unwanted minerals.

Don't fear the drift, just learn to read what it is telling you :)
 
really good discussion on this topic, HP . . . I'm seeing the same thing that you describe in my current soil setup also, in week 3-4 of flowering . . . running ppm just a bit on the high side, pH my solution to 6.8-6.9, in 5 days its down to 6.1-6.2 at root level and they're ready for more . . . just keep on drifting it thru the 6.5 target zone and they seem to be loving it
 
yes this is a good convo for me also. im going to continue to document my ph rises and if ever (declines) and hopefully play the curve. good stuff!
 
DanK,
What do you use to lower your soil pH? Mine seems to run quite alkaline (high 6's and low 7)
Or are you talking about your nutrient solution pH? Which I'm guessing would effect soil pH? Are you measuring it with the little soil/moisture probe or with some other sort of pH device?
 
Tastyness in soil your PH should be in the 6.3 to 7 PH range
 
Ozzy-
It appears to be there, but then again I've heard various reports about the accuracy of my measurement tool. I know that's what I'm shooting for. Seems like most problems are soil too acidic... I seem to run more on alkaline side.
Thanks for clarifying.
 
tasty :icon_smile: I don't think your soil is too alkaline. Every soil or potting mix I've bought is right around 7 . . . just like yours . . . and I don't use anything to lower the soil pH - except the nute solution I'm feeding and the natural metabolism of the plants. Also, I'm using the same analog probe as you are to measure pH at the root level - it has it's quirks and is by no means ideal, but I don't know of a digital pen that you can stick down to the bottom of a 3 gallon pot in order to measure pH at the root level, so I use it . . . I recognize its quirks, and I make it work for me. Insert, make sure needle is moving from high to low, allow about a minute to settle, and read. If it appears to give a false reading, just reinsert it and try it again.

Within the first 24 hours after feeding, it's hard to get a good reading because the plants are feeding hard . . . you will notice the needle jumps all over the place, because there's a ton of anion-cation exchange taking place at the root level . . . and that's what "pH" is - a measurement of the hydrogen ion. I don't even bother pHing at this time . . . hey, I measured the pH of my solution with my digital pen before feeding, and I know it's right. After 24 hours, things settle down and you can measure quite accurately where the pH is down at the bottom of the pot with the probe. Now you can see whether the pH is rising or falling. The soil, being near neutral, pretty much adopts the pH of the solution you put into it . . . at first. The pH at the root level is, however, influenced by the initial pH of your solution, the concentration of dissolved nutrients in it, and how fast the plants are taking those nutrients up. As HP says, when plants are very young, they are eating slower and eating less, and the pH tends to rise between feedings. When they get into say third week of flowering, they are hungry and gobbling up the nutes, so we bump it up and give them a little more . . . and the pH tends to fall as the concentration of nutes in solution quickly falls.

jm2c :48:
 
I am glad that I can help. I love this hobby(and these plants), and it is very pleasing to see others learn and have successful grows :) never be afraid to ask questions. ;)
 

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