I don't bother with monitoring the humidity in the tubs as I go by feel and smell. But also, the tubs are a smaller air mass that will saturate quicker with more moisture but will prevent the buds from drying too fast on the outside (I believe this is where your problem arises. You dry in an air space that is too large and that allows the outsides of the buds to dry too fast which traps in moisture and doesn't allow for the chlorophyll to break down, leaving you with hay(or grass)or no smell sometimes.
You can hang them if you want. I don't hang mine because I like to get my buds away from the moisture of the stems sooner. During flowering and drying/curing, I run a dehumidifier in my outer-room and have the air coming straight off the dehumidifier piped into my work/dryer space so that I can maintain 30-40% humidity. When I put my buds in the tubs, I open them every day and hold under a small fan for a moment to blow out the humid air from the tubs and put in dry air before closing up again. If I have a lot of bud in the tubs, I will open and air them 2x a day for the first few days, turning the pile some to get the buds on the bottom up so that the curing is even.
I have a drying/curing schedule that I go by but I don't hold tightly to it. I let the buds adjust the schedule to accommodate the size, density, and amount of buds that I have. This you have to do by feel but it won't take you long to get "the feel" for it. You said you would try to dry them for 3 days then move them to tubs or jars. Don't stick to that schedule. If you have only a little bit then 3 days may be fine, but I have seen times where I had my cabinet packed tight and it took 10 days just drying because I couldn't get my humidity down below 55% at 70f. You just have to feel them to judge it.
That is another reason why I like using a cabinet of some sort as you can better control the amount of air that gets to them. If you check a relatively full cabinet on the second day and the outsides of the buds are a little crispy but the insides are very soft, then you slow down the flow of air and/or make the off time longer so that
the saturated air stays around the buds longer to shut off the evaporation long enough to allow the moisture on the inside of the buds to get to the outside before the outside hardens.
<that is the key to properly drying your buds.
This is not just for you but for anyone reading this: The buds and tiny leaves are like candle wicks. They will draw moisture to any place that is less moist in order to equalize the moisture within the buds. At the same time, if there is air around the buds that is drier than the buds, it will rob that moisture through evaporation. Once the moisture level of the air matches the moisture level of the buds, the evaporation process will stop.
If you have buds that have a lot of moisture in them (such as when they first go in the cabinet) then the drier air will quickly evaporate some of that moisture from every edge and open surface of the buds. If that process is too fast (such as what happens in a large air space where it takes longer to equalize the moisture level) then the air will literally suck the edges and surfaces dry faster than the moisture can be wicked out of the deeper parts of the buds. This can over dry and harden those surfaces and edges, causing them to harden and not wick moisture any longer.
However, if you use a smaller air space, then the air will saturate quicker and not except anymore moisture from the buds. This allows the outer parts of the buds time to wick more moisture from the deeper parts, and equalize the moisture level, which prevents those outer edges and surfaces from hardening. Then when the fan turns on and sucks out the saturated air, fresh dry air comes in and the process starts again. But the key is to have the off times to allow the buds to equalize the moisture so that the outer parts don't harden. This is why I start with a 15min on/30min off schedule for the first few days. And then feel my buds for the edges getting dry, as that tells me its time to slow the moisture exchange process. I then double(or triple) the off time to allow the buds more time to equalize.
Curing is just an extension of the drying out process, but it is done at a much slower rate so that the chemicals within the green plant material can break down properly. Drying has to be fairly rapid to prevent rotting or mildew formation, but once the excess moisture is gone, that danger is far less and that allows the cure to be slow and steady. That again is why I move to smaller air mass of the tubs. I used to use the jars as that does the same thing but I found the "burping" process to be tedious, and I found I could get the same effect with larger amounts in larger containers. However, extra care must be taken when using the larger containers as you must gently turn the buds and get the moister buds on the bottom to the top so that the curing is even.
OK my fingers are tired so if you have any questions feel free to ask. Except you PCDuck no I'm kidding man. I like your questions, it keeps me honest and may answer questions that other may not ask.
thanks for your time and PATIENCE. am gonna split dry, curing to 2 methods. i want to also follow dinafems rules on curing as well. proof will tell. ordered 1 by 1 angle vinyl for screen supports. my freezer walls is baked on painted steel, i think. maybe alum. a couple screws held strong. should be easy to screw shelfs on. if u tell me fan size, type? adjustable? good timer type, with 1 min. intervals? filter i will get. thinking on more, but smaller holes for intakes. u agree? have time. 4 weeks to complete. again thanks