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Step one: Soak about an ounce of good cured bud in cold water in the fridge for a week. I use a mayo jar. Each day, give it a good shake. What you're doing is taking some of the nasty *** green outta the weed without hurting the oils in the plant. Let it sit for awhile so that any oils come to the surface. Then LIFT the weed SLOWLY out of the water. This will capture any of the oils that have been knocked off during the soaking. Put this onto something that won't absorb anything like a piece of plastic. Let it dry until it's nice and dry with some air moving around it. I cheat and use a food dehydrator set at 95 degrees. You throw that green water out. It won't have any of the THC in it and it's nasty tasting as hell. That's what makes the next step have a better taste.
Step two: cut the weed up into real small pieces and pack it into another jar. I use a tall skinny jar that is brown glass. Pack the weed down and put enough 100 proof vodka over it until the weed is just covered a little. Shake the hell out of it twice a day for about a week. This will dissolve all of the oils in the plant into the booze. After a week, strain and press the weed and use the booze in your favorite drink as is. Be careful of how much you drink of this. It can become VERY POTENT. Too much of it and it can **** you up bad. Try to base how much you drink on how much weed was in there. You drink it all at once and it's the same as smoking an ounce of weed at once. I try to mix it so I can use one shot of booze as the same amount as a bowl of weed. That way, you can have one drink for every bowl of weed. Or if you don't want to drink it: Step three: Shake the weed again and immediately dump it into a strainer and then into a clean, wide bowl. You can throw away the weed. It won't get you high if you smoke a truck load of it. Keep the bowl of weed-vodka in a cool, dry place with ventilation until the booze evaporates. Then use a razorblade to scrape the resin from the bowl. Now you have hash that has a vodka flavor behind it. This stuff is seriously potent. You don't get much, but what you get is real nice. I do this with a lot of bud when I have an outragous crop come in. You can re-dissolve this stuff and use it in a recipe too. It makes it taste a lot better. The trick is to NEVER get the weed above 100 degrees. That's when the THC starts getting killed. Last edited by Stoney Bud : 01-08-2006 at 10:52 PM. |
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#2 |
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Member
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Bull ****.
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#3 |
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Just a Dawg
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Sounds like a recipe for "Bhang" or "cannibis-Vodka". am I right?
http://www.drugs-plaza.com/recipesvodka.htm
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“Some may never live, but the crazy never die”-HST Last edited by Mutt : 01-13-2006 at 01:12 PM. |
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#4 | |
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Ok, how about if you tell me why you've said this. Had you ever tried it, you'd have found out that it works just as I said. Obviously, you've not tried it. |
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#5 | |
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Yeah Mutt, I use the de-greening step to improve the flavor and I use my best bud. The high is slower coming on, but stays with you longer and is intense as hell. It's not like you're wasting weed man, you're just injesting it differently. |
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#6 |
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Just a Dawg
Join Date: Jan 2006
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I find ingesting weed opposed to smoking takes longer to set in but there is no waste involoved like smoking it. Just the prep can be a nightmare for smell and stuff for most recipes.
I'll give it a try with my excess trimmings next time. (I want to do hash, I'll probably do a 50% hash and 50% with your recipe). Whats the shelf life on it?
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“Some may never live, but the crazy never die”-HST |
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#7 | |
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If you keep it in a dark, cool place like a seldom used cabinet, it'll keep longer than it'll last, (months), with little or no degradation. Man, if you use hash in this, it will be friggin awesome. Make sure you keep track of how much booze has how much THC in it. I've overdone it a couple of times and it's so intense that it kinda ruins the high because of the paranoia feelings. I try to keep it at what I figure is a joints worth to a shot of booze and wait about 30 minutes before I dip into more. When you get screwed up enough, you'll forget about it anyway. I always get up the next day and all my **** is scattered all over the table, still open. One of my cats got into a bag that way once and when I got up, the poor thing was draggin his rear legs around and droolin like hell. He's always wanted more after that. When I get it out, he comes runnin and sticks his face up for a little hit, (I only give him one). He weighs 25 pounds. I think it's the munchies. Kitty munchies. Hahahhaahahaaha. |
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#8 | |
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Here ya go: Results 1 - 10 of about 33,300 for marijuanatincture. Read through them and you'll find exactly what I've said in many places. The first known use of weed in this manner was with the use of hashish in the early 1800's in the USA. Even earlier than that in Europe. Even earlier than that in the mid-east and as early as the 11th century in China. Watch out with that "Bullshit" thing. Sometimes, it just makes you look foolish. |
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#9 | |
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SssssseXy!
Join Date: Apr 2005
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what you have is called "hash-oil" and like you stated, a tincature. Not hash. The step involving water does improve the final product by removing chlorophyl and water soluable sugars. thc is NOT water soluable, though you may be losing trichomes during that syep. Cold water makes the trike's brittle, and easily broken off, where they will settle to the bottom. Pure thc being lost.
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"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way. I've traveled a long way, and some of the roads weren't paved" http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Site_Rules.html Site Rules.. Please read 'em.. |
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#10 | |
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As far as the difference between hash oil and hash, you're technically correct. The oil is actually more pure. The hash oil doesn’t contain much of the impurities that help make up hash. I should have been more accurate in my description. As far as you point on "Pure” THC being lost, you're mostly mistaken. If the weight of the plant matter that the trich is made of can drag the oil containing THC to the bottom, then it's an amount that is negligible. If you notice, I explain that you have to gently pull the plant matter from the cold water at the end of that step. This is to recover any oils that have freed themselves from the plant matter and are on the surface of the water, (where as an oil, it would be). Trichs are nothing but plant matter that have concentrated oil ON it, and a very tiny amount IN it. Any appreciatable amount of oil would keep the trich from sinking to the bottom. The molecular weight of the plant matter versus the weight of the oil makes this happen. As I said, however, there may be a very small amount of oil trapped by the trich on its way to the bottom, but a gentle shake of the container would free all but the smallest amout of oil from it. The amount remaining would be so slight that if you combined a hundred of the processes, you might have enough to see if it were collected one batch at a time. There are so many misconceptions in the world of pot that I'm not surprised that this one shows itself periodically. Science is science. Nothing involving the science behind the plant "marijuana" is unknown in this day. The propaganda that is spread by the establishment is what keeps pot from being truly understood by the masses. The unknowns are in the physical processes within the human body when reacting to THC. Scientists continue to argue about that. |
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#11 | |||
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SssssseXy!
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"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way. I've traveled a long way, and some of the roads weren't paved" http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Site_Rules.html Site Rules.. Please read 'em.. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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I guess I'm old fashioned or something but I just like to drink my booze and smoke my weed!
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#13 | |
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I guess you and I will have to agree to disagree. The two main methods of creating Hashish are the hand-rub and the screening methods. In the hand rub method, a person takes their hands, (sweat, dirt, whatever) and rubs MJ buds of heavily oiled plants grown specifically for hash, between them. As the residue is collected among the sweat and skin oils of the person, it's scraped or rubbed off, collected and pressed. This is the most pure form of hash that is commonly sold in the world. The hash is blackish brown and when you pull a piece apart, you can sometimes see the trichs that have collected in it. The trichs are plant matter. When the screening method is used, as in Blond Leb, a great deal of plant matter is screened into the product. That's why it's Blond. The lighter colored parts of the plant are being broken and screened into the hash. After several steps of screening, the finest powder is made and pressed into sheets. This method involves the use of the hands for all of the screening and since none of the workers commonly use gloves, dead skin, sweat, skin oils and dirt are also present in the finished product. When hash oil is made, the plant oils are extracted chemically. Some petro residue is present in the finished product, and this is a definite health risk, depending on the type of solvent used. Both the hash and the hash oil end products are the strongest form of MJ. The percentage of purity would be a ratio of contaminates other than THC bearing oil. With no doubt, Hash would have greater quanities of "non-thc-oil" particulate in the final product. |
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#14 | ||
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SssssseXy!
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what color is your oil? I didn't have a lotta' time last nite to research this, but what I did find was contrary information. Arguements, and stated facts, that support both sides. You are absolutely correct in stating .." Both the hash and the hash oil end products are the strongest form of MJ." and I would believe that a nice clean "blonde" honey oil is probably more pure, than say a "greenish" tinted hash and vice versa..a gently washed "Bubble hash", from the grade screen that collects only the heads of the trichomes, and are never touched by human hands, would be reasonably more pure than a "green" oil. Quote:
including tars, ect.Correct me if I'm wrong. We're discussing/debating..NOT argueing. I'm willing to learn.. ![]()
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"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way. I've traveled a long way, and some of the roads weren't paved" http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Site_Rules.html Site Rules.. Please read 'em.. |
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#15 | |||
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Hey, speaking of tars and the like, have you ever tried one of the Vaporizers? It's supposed to be better for you and make the smoke taste better and not so harsh. Before I spend that kind of money on a gadget, I want to make sure it's not a rip off. |
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#16 | |
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Just a Dawg
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Volcano, Its about 500 bucks though is supposed to be the best. Medical users love them. Freind of mine has a much lower end one. I tried it once. It was different and I didn't end up exhaling very much vapor, so I think it abosorbs better. Got me very high with less bud. So that was a plus. but 500 bucks, damn.
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#17 | |
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I found the ones in the pics here: http://www.marijuanavaporizer.com/main.html The Mini Blue is $89, the Glass Delux is $169 and the Rechargeable one is $259. I'm thinking of getting the Glass Delux one if I can find anyone who has used it. |
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#18 |
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SssssseXy!
Join Date: Apr 2005
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Not argumentative to me, stony. I enjoy the diiscussion. Us "Old folk's" gota' support one another..you know, stimulate that thinking/learning process..
![]() A few years back, I spent a couple of years extracting and refining oil. Research on the www and experimentation brought me to the discovery of water washing the weed to remove sugars and chlorophyl. You are the only other person that I've ever heard mention that. I also developed a distilling method to refine regular store bought, 70% isapropel, to remove the 30 % water. I also used the "distillary" to recover my pure alcohol for use again after the wash. My product would vary in color and potency, it seemed depending on several factors. Time allowed in the water soak, time in alcohol solution, amount of light it was exposed to, ect. I was never able to "nail down" a specific procedure that I was totally convinced was superior. The only way that I was ever able to produce,"what I considered", a nice clean blonde oil, was with the butane extraction, which I felt was not extracting all of the thc. Don't get me wrong, I managed some pretty potent stuff in various green tints, but always felt that I could improve. On the Vape's..the only one that I ever used, was a cheap model. Personally, I didn't like it. T'was something like "kissing thru a screedoor" , something was definately missing. BUT, in all fairness, it was a cheapo', and I've since been told that the more expensive models are much better.
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"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way. I've traveled a long way, and some of the roads weren't paved" http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Site_Rules.html Site Rules.. Please read 'em.. |
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#19 | |
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Just a Dawg
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Is this like water curing? I have read a little on this. Would love to learn more if you have any info. or links. I know the cheapo vaprorizors have many leaks and other problems. I know if the temp of the element vaporizing the weed isn't right it will be very inferior and might as well smoke it like normal. I beleive that is the difference between the cheapo and expensive is the quality of the heating element. just my opinion and from what I read.
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“Some may never live, but the crazy never die”-HST Last edited by Mutt : 01-16-2006 at 12:21 PM. |
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#20 |
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SssssseXy!
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"Cheapo"..$110 heee hee..woulda' bought a lota' quality organic fert. I've heard the same on the vape's, temperature. As often holds true, "Buyer Beware"..."You get what you pay for"..yadda yadda.
I looked at water curing a bit once, but it simply didn't appeal to me and I never pursued it any further.
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"Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way. I've traveled a long way, and some of the roads weren't paved" http://www.marijuanapassion.com/Site_Rules.html Site Rules.. Please read 'em.. |
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