Exposure to mercury vapor light.

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Slartibartfast

Don't Panic
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My Sativa is about two or three weeks from harvest, unless the weather decides otherwise. I moved it to make it less visible but it's now getting light from a mercury vapor light on a pole about 40 feet away. It's not all that bright on her, mostly blueish light, but I am wondering if that will affect the flowers. It never seems to bother any of the other garden flowers, and there is plenty of all types of those.
What do y'all think, will it stunt my buds?
 
depends on the wattage oif the MV light. I would say at 40' "shouldn't" give any probs...but i would find a truley dark place to keep it.
 
Mutt said:
depends on the wattage oif the MV light. I would say at 40' "shouldn't" give any probs...but i would find a truley dark place to keep it.
You're probably right, most of the light is focused downward in a bright cone underneath it, and pretty weak from the sides, because it's surrounded by a typical plastic diffusion shroud. The bulb is 175W.
I'll walk out into the dog doo minefield tonight to see if there is a darker spot where it's still hidden in the day.

Tater said:
Or bag it at night.
She's too big to bag without breaking a limb, even with the main stalk trained over, it's 7 feet tall.

Thanks for the answers.
 
HOLY SHEEP!! lol thats awesome, I tend to forget how big you guys grow them outside. I just grow directly from rooted clone so my girls all stay cute and short.
 
To be as safe as possible, I moved it farther away, to about 75 feet. That crappy light is such a narrow band, probably about 450nm(blue/violet), and only 175 watts at that distance, I think I'm safe. The flowers are almost full term, maybe 2 weeks, lots of trichomes. I sure wish they would hurry up.
 
I read this and thought of you man. Originally posted on: hxxp://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/light.htm

Photoperiodism

Light also determines when many plants start growing, flowering and producing seed. Special chemicals called phytochromes are produced by plants in response to the intensity and the absence of light and these are a controlling factor of their growth. It used to be thought that day length controlled the production of these phytochromes, but investigations have shown that it is periods of complete or broken darkness which are important. Flowering is controlled by 'day length' in many plants and they have been categorised as Long-day, Short-day and Day-neutral depending on their response.

Short-day (or more correctly long-night) plants flower in spring or autumn when the period of uninterrupted darkness is greater than 12 hours, eg. chrysanthemums.

Long-day (short-night) plants flower when the period of uninterrupted darkness is less than 12 hours this category contains the summer flowering plants from temperate regions where the days vary greatly from season to season.

Day-neutral plants flower independantly of day length, eg. tomatoes.


This phenomenon is known as photoperiodism and some gardeners have had problems where the garden is adjacent to street lighting, as the plants become confused when light is around for 24 hours. Permanent weak light can reverse the phytochrome influence in Long- and Short-day plants.
 
" Day-neutral plants flower independantly of day length, eg. tomatoes."

- This looks like nonsense to me. I have been growing tomatoes for years and I can tell you that if you try to grow them with insufficient hours of sun, they flower almost immediately and are useless. You get these stunted plants with tiny hopeless tomatoes on them. And frankly I find the same with weed; this 'unbroken darkness' idea does not hold water in reality; insufficient sun and the plants flower early. I have been trying for years with outdoor sativa and while the temperature outdoors is quite good enough by say, March, the plants do not put on much veg growth, flower early like the tomatoes and produce little bud.
 
leafminer said:
" Day-neutral plants flower independantly of day length, eg. tomatoes."

- This looks like nonsense to me. I have been growing tomatoes for years and I can tell you that if you try to grow them with insufficient hours of sun, they flower almost immediately and are useless. You get these stunted plants with tiny hopeless tomatoes on them. And frankly I find the same with weed; this 'unbroken darkness' idea does not hold water in reality; insufficient sun and the plants flower early. I have been trying for years with outdoor sativa and while the temperature outdoors is quite good enough by say, March, the plants do not put on much veg growth, flower early like the tomatoes and produce little bud.

oh cool.. thanks for the info...I'm growing some too they hate freezing though the night.. maybe some of that will keep them warm ?:eek:
 
This explains further, and I just added the other section for a fun read. It explains why plants stretch! I think I'll post a thread on it this interests me ;)

It is possible to control the growth pattern by introducing artificial light or blocking out natural light. Seedlings grown indoors can become etiolated and flop over, using artificial light will prevent this happening. A light box with the correct intensity and wavelength of light will produce more robust seedlings and later, flowers and fruit at the required time. Many of the plants grown for garden shows are controlled in special light conditions so that they perform on the day and can flower completely out of season. The Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) requires heat and about 14 hours of darkness to produce its bright red bracts so has to be grown in special light conditions to be ready for Christmas.
There are special grow-light bulbs, but an equal number of cool white and warm white fluorescent tubes should give off a balanced spectrum sufficient for the job. They should be arranged 10 to 20 cm above the seedlings or cuttings in a box lined with reflective material. A larger scale arrangement is required for growing-on the plants. Most actively growing plants perform at their best with 18 hours of light per day, but those from tropical regions respond well to 12 hours as they would receive in the wild. It is possible to grow healthy plants without any natural light at all (as growers of illicit substances have discovered!).
Phototropism

Light also allows plants to interact with their surroundings. They are able to respond to shading by growing towards light sources. This is controlled by hormones produced at the shoot tip called auxins (indole-3-acetic acid or IAA) which influence cell division, so if the light is to one side the cells on the dark side receive more auxin and divide more rapidly forcing the plant to bend towards the light. This is phototropism. If the plants are grouped together and the light is from above they will all grow upwards at a faster rate, the winners will be those which are best adapted to local conditions. These are usually the weeds, but the phenomenon is used to advantage in forestry producing straight-stemmed trees. The IAA also suppresses the growth of side buds so the effort is concentrated at the main tip of the plant - this is apical bud dominance a phenomenon we try to influence when pruning.
The parts of a plant which are above the ground are said to show a positive phototropic reaction and the roots show a negative phototropic reaction as they grow away from light. Small seed do not have the energy to support a long initial shoot or plumule, so need to be near or on the surface. They are responsive to light as well as temperature and moisture, so germination occurs only when all three are correct.
 
Interesting that bit about roots. I'd like to add, too, for those growing in pots outdoors, that I have found it necessary to paint my pots white. The sunshine makes pots of reddish or green clay or plastic, so hot that the plant won't use all the soil - it is too hot for the roots. My outdoor yield was much better after painting the pots white. Use water-based paint not oil paint!
 
The BEST way would be to first paint black, then paint it white. This keeps out light, and reflects away sun all at once.
 
If you're growing in something that lets light through, yes, I agree.
Like, I used to use great big clay pots but they cost a fortune, were too fragile, practically gave me hernias to move them about (someone knocks on the door who looks a bit suss and there's your plantation in view out back ... a real killer) so I found that your standard Home Despot 5 gallon paint bucket full of coco is just fine for growing a ten foot sativa.
But it might let a bit of light through ... so if you've got the patience, paint it black but don't leave it black or you're gonna cook the roots.
 
I agree, Use the white buckets. But even though they reflect light, they let it in to the roots. Paint black over that, but white over the black layer. That's what I meant.

But it's not a matter of patience. If you need to do something for your ladiers, you need to do it. I would surely go out of my way to do this.
 

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