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Thanks! Took a bit longer than anticipated, but salvaged enough clones and seeds to get to a F7 backcross. Now, for the time consuming part. Took the F7 seeds that I got (not many), and planted most of them. The broadmites reappeared and all growing plants were destroyed by fire and...

Next ... Google Blumat Troph. Developed in Israel and is all automatic. No timers, pumps, or Doo Dah. No experience myself, but do know several organic growers that swear by them and not at them. Worth checking out. DD

Sorry you don't like them, but they belong there, part of the process of getting the food right for the worms. A light sprinkle of Neem will be fine. Doesn't seem to bother the *good* bugs annnd the worms love it. DD

YES!!:D:icon_smile: You really don't need more molasses OR water. The microbes consume the organic amendments you added. That's what makes them available for the plant. *I haven't used molasses or teas for that matter in several years. Hasn't made a bit of difference in my mixes. Usually...

*I* use a bit more, 1cup/cf (7.5 gallons), added to my mix. This translates to 2Tbl/gallon of mix. Since it has "some" lime in there, perhaps a bit less. But if the pH was 5.9, it couldn't have been much of a charge ........... It's hard to overdo lime, but easily under applied (5.9 pH)...

I use Thuricide Concentrate and Amazon carries it. Wet

Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies kurstaki It only affects caterpillars and harmless to everything else. I know I've ingested a bunch over the last 40 years from eating tomatoes off the vine. I mainly use it for tomato hornworms and budworms on the mj. Wet

Oh, it works Rose. Or, at least it has for the last 6 months. I wouldn't have mentioned anything from a short term trial. I use Bokashi bran I made sometime back. Wet

ROSE I also hate neem oil and just don't use it. BUT .... I now love neem meal (cake), so much I will be spending $101 to get a 44# bag delivered. Existing solely on SS, that is saying something and will take ~ 4 months to save the $$$ (1 more month to go). Last year I started using it...

:yeahthat: Wet

Wow, this is gonna be kinda rough, since most of it was eyeballed. 7 1/2 gal of expanded peat moss. I have a screen I 'grate' it on and usually only do 5 gal. But over did it a bit and went on to a whole cf. Did make it easier for the amendments. Mostly full party cup...

THG, you really need to do some research here. That whole renewable vs non renewable thing was/is a big PR ploy by the coco producers to sorta gloss over the clear cutting of forests for coco plantations and nevermind the slavery issues in the harvesting. Canada's peat industry is very...

No, you really don't want leachate, just means the bedding is too wet. The moisture in the veggie scraps and such usually provide more than enough moisture. Many do their bins just like Duck, sorta like a compost pile. The layering aspect is by far the best way to feed your worms IMO. Tried...

*I* do, but it's a peat based bedding and too acidic without the lime. Many other beddings aren't that low of a pH and don't need it. I never add it to food. Wet

Add some worms to the compost and see how they do. IF, in a couple of months, they are still alive and have multiplied ....... Wet

No, it's not done. When you can't recognize anything that went in there, then it's done. To be realistic, figure about a year to complete. Longer if you keep adding stuff. I mainly do leaves which can take several years, bbut start a new pile every year rather than adding to an existing pile...

Rose ... Worms love neem meal sprinkled in small amounts on the surface, like 1/4 cup or so. NOT the oil, NEVER the oil in the bin or in the soil for that matter. *I* never bury food, it's just asking for trouble IMO. I put food on the surface, let it break down a good bit and then add a...

Well, sorta. Stacked like that is not very stable, but the bigger consideration is weight. I use 18 gal totes and by the time I harvest I need help picking them up. Like Duck, that's the only time they get picked up. The bins sit in another bin with no holes to catch any drippings, and there...

Problems start when you add 'food' faster than it can decompose/get consumed by the worms. Remember that worms don't *eat* anything, but rather slurp up the bacterial slime from the decomposing food. Once the bin gets established (worms self regulate population), and the microbes are well...

THG, I haven't touched Kool-Aid since Jim Jones:rolleyes::rolleyes: and I'm sure not about to try this flavor. Sorry Sunshine, but when something doesn't make sense it's usually a 99.9% chance it IS whack. You'll understand this better if/when you spend more time in reality. BTW, I have...