Acetone

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leafminer

Bloody H E L L !
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Gonna make some hash oil later today; I'll use acetone as the solvent. Isopropyl alcohol is too slow to evaporate, I think acetone should be a lot faster. I was considering using carbon tet but it's too carcinogenic. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
when i was working with salvinorin-a blotters(when it was legal in my state) i found that ethanol could dissolve ~2-3mg or alkaloid per ml. acetone, on the other hand, could dissolve something close to 30mg/ml. this meant that you could hold the extraction from a qp of foliage in 100ml or less of acetone, versus gallon jugs of ethanol.

for anyone interested in pure alkaloid extractions, look into an ABC extraction using non polar--polar--non polar. you end up with a nearly white fluff often crystalline product.
 
I take your point. Darn. Have to come up with a better method! Oh well. Maybe there is a good reason ppl use iso...
 
lol. read the msds of any solvent.

acetone, is a ketone, which is liquid at room temp. acetone is not a diluted solution. it is one chemical. and since it both has a smell, no industrial identification trace chems need to be added. the blue and yellow can at wall to wall mart is 100%.

Now as acetone is a volatile liquid, it evaporates totally out of the finished product. unless you use nail polish or a strange adulterated brand of acetone(both being toxic), you can pour it onto glass, let it evap and there will be nothing left(maybe a gathering of already present dirt).

When doing AB/ACB extractions, often people(Read: people in the tubes) say to use naphtha as your polar solvent. this is bad because naphtha is a gross mixture of various petroleum distillates, all with unique boiling/evaporation properties. Naphtha is also often adulterated with industry markers and chemicals. if you plan on using a polar, id either make/buy chloroform and use it correctly, or find a way to make a different polar work. if you have the Tek and patience, you can do acid/base titration and end up with a perfect product. but burrettes are expensive and not toke&grow friendly.i derived crystalline and blotter viable sally using these techniques from dried foliage and my product was clean.

TL/DR: Acetone is a clean and safe solvent when produced by a reputable manufacturer. naphtha sucks.
 
lotek said:
lol. read the msds of any solvent.

acetone, is a ketone, which is liquid at room temp. acetone is not a diluted solution. it is one chemical. and since it both has a smell, no industrial identification trace chems need to be added. the blue and yellow can at wall to wall mart is 100%.

Now as acetone is a volatile liquid, it evaporates totally out of the finished product. unless you use nail polish or a strange adulterated brand of acetone(both being toxic), you can pour it onto glass, let it evap and there will be nothing left(maybe a gathering of already present dirt).

When doing AB/ACB extractions, often people(Read: people in the tubes) say to use naphtha as your polar solvent. this is bad because naphtha is a gross mixture of various petroleum distillates, all with unique boiling/evaporation properties. Naphtha is also often adulterated with industry markers and chemicals. if you plan on using a polar, id either make/buy chloroform and use it correctly, or find a way to make a different polar work. if you have the Tek and patience, you can do acid/base titration and end up with a perfect product. but burrettes are expensive and not toke&grow friendly.i derived crystalline and blotter viable sally using these techniques from dried foliage and my product was clean.

TL/DR: Acetone is a clean and safe solvent when produced by a reputable manufacturer. naphtha sucks.

It is my opinion that soxhlet extractor using ethanol is both safer and healthier. And if you're really into oil, soxhlet extractor will allow further processing of oil for refluxing (isomerization), so that the other compounds closely related to THC but non psychactive are converted to delta 8, or delta 9. It is not just an extraction that makes good quality oil, it also requires the higher rotating forms as they are more potent, more psychedelic and with more of a spiritual effect.

The quanity of cannabidiol in the oil is important, as it may be converted to THC, thereby increasing the potency of the oil proportionally. Experience has indicated that the quanity of THC to cannabidol ratio to be at least equal. Because of this, the strength of the oil can be at least be doubled through the isomerization process, and in some cases the potency be increased 5 to 6 times. In regards to extractions using various solvents, such as chloroform. "There is recent evidence ( Bonuccelli, 1979) that solvents such as choloform which promote free radical reactions can result in large decreases in THC content. A chloroform solution of cannibus exposed to sunlight for 30 minutes lost 25-35% of its THC; the reaction was slower in the dark but still significant.":D
 
"When doing AB/ACB extractions"
- This interests me. I am expert at inorganic chem but not too well up on organic. I do have the resources of a well equipped lab available and a fair amount of the usual reagents and solvents. Actually I think I will try the acetone, except I will work in the garden and upwind. I'll just try a little bit first. More later! Got a lot to do.
 
right.


Explain to me how a volatile chemical with no solute has any effect once its evaporated.


please impart me with logic....

butane leaves a smell when making oil, acetone does not. the smell in butane isnt the gas, its an added chemical. that makes your product dirty and required an extra cooking. how can that be clean, but a chemical your body makes(tho toxic, you make it yourself to some degree) that evaps, isnt. what what.
isomer controlled products are aways good.
 
I know for a fact that "Professionals" in my area use Ethinol, and some crazy 3k machine that rotates the liquid in question in a vat of hotter liquid, then condensed it or something crazy like that.

I used to remember the name of the equipment used, I got to watch them make a batch..

Using this method THC extracts of 80-90% are common.
 
OK, I'm half way through. I used about half an oz. of trim from my Aurora and about 2 oz. of acetone, placed the ground-up trim into a small reagent bottle, added the acetone, shook well for a few minutes. A green liquid was produced.
Took three coffee filters, made a cone, filtered the acetone wash into a second reagent bottle.

The hardest part was squeezing out the filter full of used weed. Got acetone all over my fingers which I hate because it defats your skin. Reminds me of when I was a kid working in a gov. lab and used to have to get into a bell jar and clean it out with wads of tissues soaked in acetone ... surprising that I am still alive.

Right now the green liquid is sitting in an evaporation dish in a warm sunny part of the garden. It's around 30C so I don't suppose I will have to wait very long. More later.

Oh, and Lotek is dead right. I am using pure lab acetone certified 99.95% pure. There won't be anything left over that wasn't in the weed to start with. I have a whole bunch of solvents available, but like I said earlier, don't like to use the carbon tet, it is too toxic (the fumes I mean), and chloroform .... well I prefer to stay away from that because it tends to turn into phosgene .... and various alcohols. I think ethyl ether should work super well if you could get it in pure form (that stuff they sell for starting cars is no good it has additives).
 
The Effen Gee said:
I know for a fact that "Professionals" in my area use Ethinol, and some crazy 3k machine that rotates the liquid in question in a vat of hotter liquid, then condensed it or something crazy like that.

I used to remember the name of the equipment used, I got to watch them make a batch..

Using this method THC extracts of 80-90% are common.

hxxp://www.edenlabs.org
 
ether is amazing for alkaloid extractions but i cant seem to get it anywhere where i am. i know you can buy it otc in UK from the pharmacy\ist. comes in like 20-50ml bottles. say you need to remove some glue off a model.
 
Hmmm .... (about 5 hours later)
The bulk of the acetone evaporated really fast in just about half an hour or so leaving a small lagoon. After five hours it is a thin sludge of dark green. I can still smell acetone in it.
I seem to remember that water is soluble in acetone. If so then probably what's happened is that the acetone extracted the remaining water in the "dry" trim, and the sludge is a solution of water and hash oil in acetone.
I will just have to be patient and wait for it to completely evaporate out and see what's left.
 
Aha ... the sludge has dried out and there is no smell of acetone any more. I'm going to scrape it up and make it into a small ball. There isn't as much as I had hoped for!
 
=] thank you.

good job, enjoy the hash. if the smell is ever there just hit it with some heat for a few seconds and stir it. the smell is from dissolved bubbles and pockets which get steamed out.
 

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