CO2 production from yeast

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chazmaine420

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August 12, 2013






So I've been researching a cheap and easy way to produce co2 for my tent set-up and came across this article. Seems a bit complicated but I was thinking that using a bubbler like the kind used for home brewing beer on top of the bottle would simplify things. Anyone have any thoughts on this?


DIY Yeast-Generated CO2 System
By Hoa G. Nguyen
Carbon dioxide injection certainly is not necessary for all planted aquaria. You can have a beautiful planted without CO2, most likely if you limit yourself to a slow-growth setup, with less demanding plants and less fertilization. However, if you want to grow a wide variety of plants and have vigorous growth, you need higher light levels, adequate nutrients, and supplemental CO2.
Here is how a cheap Do-It-Yourself Yeast-Generated CO2 System can be constructed.



slightly smaller than the diameter of a 3/16" air hose tube. Insert the tubing through the hole so that about 2 cm (or 1") is inside the bottle when re-capped. Cut the tube at a 45-degree angle (see picture) so that any water that gets onto the tube will drip back down more easily. Seal the insertion point with silicone caulk on both sides of the cap (the inside seal will be more important, due to the which will be generated, so be generous with the caulk there).
[*]Run the CO2 hose into the through a one-way check valve, and terminating in an airstone in the aquarium. Leaving an air hose unattached at both ends, with one end in the aquarium, is an invitation to disaster. It is very easy for siphoning to start by accident. Capillary action draws water up the hose to the top of the tank, then an accidental yank on the hose can easily pull the hose out enough so that this water in the hose fall below the and thus starting a siphoning action. I had 20 gallons of water on my in a few hours, started in exactly this way. Therefore I strongly recommend having a one-way check valve in the CO2 path. Note that most cheap air-hose check valves do not last very long in a CO2 line. Carbonic acid formed by the interaction of CO2 with water tends to dissolve the rubber membrane. You should spend a few more dollars and buy a check valve made for CO2. By the way, NEVER put a shutoff valve (even under control of a
or timer) in the CO2 line of a yeast-generated CO2 setup. If the line is shut, the pressure will keep building until the bottle bursts--very messy.

[*]For the reactor, use a large-diameter plastic bottle (such as a Gatorade bottle). Cut out 3 large panels from the lower portion of the bottle. Insert the CO2 hose through a hole in one of the panes between 2 panels (see picture), near the bottom, and cap it with an Use stones to weigh the bottle down and place it in a rear corner of your Place the water filter return spray bar vertically next to the bottle (secure to side of tank with suction cups). The idea is for the CO2 bubbles to come out of the airstone and collect at the top of the reactor bottle. The water from the spray bar then constantly agitates the CO2 surface and helps dissolve the CO2. The cap of the bottle allows it to be bled occasionally, to remove accumulated, undissolved gasses.
[*]Now mix the yeast, sugar and water solution as follows.
  • Put 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of yeast into the bottle with about a cup of warm water (bread yeast is fine). Some people have theorized that champaign or wine yeast should last longer (due to its ability to tolerate the alcohol generated from the brewing process), but recent tests reported on the net have not indicated any difference.
  • Shake to mix the yeast well.
  • Add water to bring the solution up to 3/4 of the bottle.
  • Add 1 to 2 cups of sugar and shake well. The amount of yeast and sugar will determine the rate and duration of CO2 generation. More yeast will result in stronger CO2 production, but will exhaust the sugar quicker. Using 1/4 teaspoon of yeast and 2 cups of sugar will result in CO2 production for about 4 to 5 weeks.
  • In areas with soft water, some people recommend adding a teaspoon of baking soda to buffer the water and extend the life of the solution (prevent the acid formed by the brewing action from destroying the yeast prematurely).
[/LIST]The brew should generate about 1 bubble per second (from the air hose with no after about one day. Using warm water will help it get going faster. There is a ramping up period in the flow at the beginning and a ramping down period at the end of the solution's productive life. To smooth out the flow, you can use two smaller (1 liter) bottles, instead of one 2-liter bottle, and start one about a week or two after the other (but this doubles the maintenance effort). You should remove and clean the occasionally, as yeast-generated CO2 has a tendency to generate a slime coating that gums up the after a while.
 
I've never needed it.

Anyways these kinds of gimmicks don't work efficiently under the best of conditions. You'll most likely be told to do it right and to seal your room off air tight, get a tank, a metering unit, a timer....blah blah blah....
 
Can you edit you live links out please? I would rather delete the thread than take the time to take all those out. It's a waste of time anyhow.
 
Kill the live links, and don't waste your time with this crap. It doesn't work.
 
The bottom line is that there is NO effective inexpensive way to supply extra CO2 to the plants. To be effective, CO2 needs to be administered and regulated at specific concentrations. You need a sealed space, you need enhanced lumens. Unfortunately, DIY setups like this are a waste of time energy and money.

And I'm with NC on the links--there are simply too many embedded links for us to remove them.
 
7greeneyes said:
I've never needed it.

Anyways these kinds of gimmicks don't work efficiently under the best of conditions. You'll most likely be told to do it right and to seal your room off air tight, get a tank, a metering unit, a timer....blah blah blah....

told'ja ;)

:bolt:
 
In regard to the "live links" Sorry about that, didn't realize all that baggage would carry over. i dont know how to edit this so if it has to go down that up to you.

as far as the DIY set-up it wouldnt cost much beyond yeast and sugar. And why would I need "enhanced lumens"? This would be in a tent with an air cooled 600w HPS light.
 
Hick was sweet enough to do it for ya :) It doesn't matter if it costs $2. You will simply not get a "better" yield from yeast and co2. Focus on the basics. Simple high volume air exchange can produce outstanding results, as-is.
 
1) Pre-requisites
..a) Optimal conditions (water, nutes, light, temperature, humidity, medium, container, ph, insects, etc). don’t mess with co2 if you haven’t dialed in all of your other growing conditions.
..b) Temperature control with non-venting room. practically speaking , this means running an air conditioner in almost all grow situations with enhanced co2. Don’t bother with co2 if you have to vent your room regularly to maintain temps because that wastes too much co2 to make this worthwhile.
..c) You need good in room air movement to circulate the co2 that tends to pool on the floor.
..d) Don’t enhance with co2 if you have a female within a month of harvest – added co2 seems to reduce potency as I can personally attest to after these tests.

EDIT - after testing potency was NOT affected so no worries for enhancing co2 during flowering
2) Economics: it cost me $38 to start up and $1.30 per day to operate a fermentation system to get 1500 ppm in a 384 cubic foot room. Your costs will be roughly proportional to the size of your room vs. mine. So if your room is 800 cubic feet then your costs will be about $2.50 per day and $75 to start up.

3) Purchase/scrounge for:
..a) jar of Fleischmann's active dry yeast. one jar will last awhile:
Attachment 1051650


..b) co2 test kit with four extra testers.
http://www.discount-hydro.com/productdisp.php?pid=325&navid=30
Attachment 1051665
..c) Granulated sugar in 10 lb or larger bags (you’ll be using a pound or more of sugar per day.
..d) At least 3 containers, see set up for specifics.

4) set up
..a) Take measurements of your grow room volume by taking height times width times depth to get cubic feet.
..b) Sorry for all of the math, but it’s the only way to do this right.
.....i) use the amount of sugar needed per 100 cubic feet as 1.3 pound of sugar per 100 cubic feet. That figure was determined experimentally.
....ii) X is the total amount of sugar needed and is calculated by taking 1.3 above times a (room size in cubic feet) above, then divide by 100 to get pounds of sugar needed for your grow space. If you don’t have a scale, one pound of sugar is approximately 2 cups.
....iii) Y is the amount of water needed. it was determined experimentally that you need 0.75 gallons of water per pound of sugar. Multiply X times .75 to get gallons of water needed.
....iv) Z is the amount of yeast needed. It was determined experimentally that you need 12 grams of yeast per pound of sugar. Multiply X times 12 to get grams of yeast to use. if you don’t have a scale, 10 grams is approximately one heaping tablespoon.
....v) divide each of X, Y and Z by three and you have the amount of ingredients you’ll be adding each day after start up. You’re going to want containers that can ideally hold one day’s worth of ingredients although with my room size it was more convenient to have two containers added/subtracted per day.
..c) prepare containers. You can use an open container but I find it helpful and reassuring to be able to see the fermentation happening. You can either purchase an air lock from a brewery store
Attachment 1051667

or build one like I did with a little left over irrigation hosing, some glue and a couple of little bottles. Drill holes in the lid of the fermentation container and the bottom of the air trap and glue a piece of tubing between the two.
Attachment 1051654

..d) initial charging – take 2/3 of the ingredients and place in 2/3 of containers as follows.
....i) Take 2/3 of Y hot tap water and place in microwaveable bowl. Place in microwave on high for 4 minutes.
....ii) Take 2/3 of X sugar and dissolve completely in hot water.
....iii) Pour sugar water into 2/3 of your containers
....iv) Add 2/3 of Z yeast evenly into containers
....v) Put on lids, SHAKE VIGOROUSLY FOR 30 SECONDS, fill air lock with water and place containers in grow room.
..e) Verify fermentation by observing bubbles forming in water trap after a couple of hours– a large bubble every 15 seconds is typical.

5) continued operation
..a) on the second day add 1/3 of everything so that now the room has a total of X sugar, Y water and Z yeast.
..b) After that, every day rotate in 1/3 of total sugar and water plus 5 grams of new yeast and take out oldest 1/3. (Easiest to do with 3 or 6 equal sized containers). You’ll be reusing the yeast which tends to settle to the bottom of the container. Carefully pour out the old solution leaving the sludge and a little liquid in the bottom. You’ll be mixing in micro-waved hot sugar water each day to the oldest container.
..c) test co2 levels after several days to adjust for passive room venting (don’t breath on tester, don’t test room where you’ve been hanging out a lot. If the co2 measures anywhere between 1,000 ppm and 2,000 ppm then leave it alone (the tester is not very precise, and is difficult to read, but it sure is cheap). If the measured co2 is above 2,000 or below 1,000, you’ll want to adjust the mixture proportionately.
..d) Example – after running for a week you tested the co2 and got below 1000 ppm. If you’ve witnessed sufficient fermentation happening, your room is probably passively venting a lot more air than you think. First seek out all major air leaks and make sure no equipment is actively venting. If there were no problems there you’ll need to increase your fermentation ingredients to make up for the shortfall. Increase your ingredients by 33% and retest the air in four or five days. If your concentrations are above 2000 ppm, try reducing the ingredients by 33% and retest the air.

6) Comparison of providing CO2 by different methods (without a co2 monitor/controller):
Co2 system........cost per day....... Start up cost.......convenience
fermentation.......$1.30....................$38 .................10 minutes per day, everything available at local stores.
tank...................$0.67..................$412 ..................Must stop by hydro or welding shop.
dry ice................$0.28....................$32... ...............Available but requires frequent visits, hard to control concentrations
propane..............$0.26...................$467. .................Locally available, heating of grow room can be a problem.


Start up costs for fermentation include the co2 tester and ingredients.

Start up costs for tanks include the tank, regulator and co2 tester.

Start up costs for dry ice include ingredients and the co2 tester.

Start up costs for propane include the tank, burner and co2 tester.
 
Thanks to all of you for your help. Bottom line here seems to be its not worth bothering with or its way more complicated than its worth. I guess i'll leave well enough alone.
 
I pump up my girls with CO2 and they love it:D
 
You are the cut and paste master Dr. But darn man, copy and paste from roll it up?
 
Lol. That's what I thought. Almost every post is sooooo long. Hurts my eyes.
 
Newbietoo said:
are you in an air tight room???:)

As air tight as I can with a tent and duct tape:D
 
NorCalHal said:
You are the cut and paste master Dr. But darn man, copy and paste from roll it up?

Lol... I called him that as well.

At least remove the live links Dr C and P. :)
 

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