First 2000W RDWC

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I use these two

the 2nd being the Ph pen

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-TDS-EZ-Measurement-Resolution/dp/B002C0A7ZY/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MQTD4NHKTA5HXEJP1S2[/ame]

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Oakton-EcoTestr-Waterproof-Tester-Range/dp/B004G8PWAU/ref=pd_sim_hi_24?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MQTD4NHKTA5HXEJP1S2[/ame]


as for chillers
I don't think THG runs a big enough setup to generate enough heat in the water and or has reduced the ways heat can get into the system
IE black buckets pull radiant heat from HPS lights
I need a heater in my (4 gal) res to keep it >66F in the winter
 
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error best caught early!
nothing more frustrating than waiting till the package arrives only to realize the mistake and have to wait more shipping days

yes (7.0 and 4.0 I think) and storage solution although I believe some use one of the calibration solutions for both

biggest trick to them is keep the tip WET if its not testing the res, its being cleaned in water or its in storage solution.

in hydro ph is E V E R Y T H I N G don't skimp on the one tool to measure it

I have a continuous readout (ph,ppm,temp) in my res and the ppm meter got caughtup in the roots and was partially up out of the water and giving false readings... came darn near nute burning/KILLing the entire crop (1 plant in my case)
incorrect ph can be just as if not more devastating
 
error best caught early!
nothing more frustrating than waiting till the package arrives only to realize the mistake and have to wait more shipping days

yes (7.0 and 4.0 I think) and storage solution although I believe some use one of the calibration solutions for both

biggest trick to them is keep the tip WET if its not testing the res, its being cleaned in water or its in storage solution.

in hydro ph is E V E R Y T H I N G don't skimp on the one tool to measure it

I have a continuous readout (ph,ppm,temp) in my res and the ppm meter got caughtup in the roots and was partially up out of the water and giving false readings... came darn near nute burning/KILLing the entire crop (1 plant in my case)
incorrect ph can be just as if not more devastating

Do I have to buy the oakton solutution or can I get this generic one? [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Atlas-Scientific-Calibration-Solution-Kit/dp/B007X5J9L6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1423167030&sr=8-3&keywords=ph+calibration#customerReviews[/ame]

Thank you so much for your posts by the way, I feel your input is going to make a huge impact on my grow. If there is anything else you see please let me know. I hope you can tune into my grow journal when I get that started in the next week or so.
 
its all up to you if you trust generic (anything)
[that stuff looks fine 2me]
most of the time I do but try to keep my "too good to be true" meter ON @ all times.
 
Yeah but you don't need to. The even canopy will boost yield enough without supercropping. I'd stick to topping and training mate.
 
Saying that if you super crop the main branches just as they're hitting the screen then they'll grow outwards anyway which is what you want.

It's up to you pal.
 
chiller easy cheap way:
bought 40 dollar used mini-refrig, bought a 3/4 in round drill-bit thingy, drilled 2 holes in
right side, slid 20 feet of 1/2 in tubing into a hole, shaped it into a coil about 5 wraps
maybe, then ran it out of the fridge. I only use it to keep dwc water rez at 68.
I use minimum setting and it gets too cool in winter. gonna be perfect in summer.
DWC requires 1. water at 68. 2. lotsa air. 3. 7-10 day rez changes due to dust in air. easy
 
heater in winter?I guess a small heater on low voltage setting I find I need to keep growroom temps
at 65 or above. it has a thermostat, so only comes on when its below 65. that's the plan anyway. I have had to turn it down once but it seemed stable. im a beginner dwc but I know when the roots/medium get cold, growth slows below 60-65.
fresh air from outside can be cold but is fresh (co2) and needed.
 

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