First grow, 1000w/600w venting/fire questions

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Tact,

I'm still a little confused. I'm not familiar with the filter you are using. Will it let you exhaust through a duct?

The upper left active exhaust vent goes into a 4"x 12" square duct. Then where does that duct go to and what is it exhausting for , air circulation or heat?

Is the partition going to be sheet rocked on both sides or only one?

Personally I only did one side for 2 reasons: First one side was all I needed except for appearance purposes and very few people will ever be inside of the grow room to see the exposed studs, and second I getting old enough that I have to look at making the house salable some day and having fully framed walls dividing what could be a 10' x 12' bedroom into a 6' x12' room and a4' x12' room would be kind of hard to sell with unless I find someone who wants to have 2 indoor grow rooms.

That nifty drill bit that can cut circular holes in drywall, is it for one of those mini high speed router type things or does it go into your regular drill?

Either way be careful using it because if it is less than 1/8" thick at the thinnest point, it will break real easily if you put very much side pressure on it trying to cut too fast. I've tried them in the little high speed mini router and I have tendency to feed them too fast and break the bits. You need to be ready for a lot of airborne dust using any kind of power tools around sheet rock. Even using a hand saw causes a mess cutting sheet rock.

Do you realize that it really isn't all that much harder to cut a hole through the outer rafter joist, in your case the wall behind your water and water heater, than it is to cut one through the rim board at the end of the rafters, your case the back wall where you currently plan on venting the lights?

Hang in there. You're making great progress! Good smoking.
 
Hey Don,

DonJones said:
Tact,

I'm still a little confused. I'm not familiar with the filter you are using. Will it let you exhaust through a duct?

Here is a link to the fan/filter combo, though this is not where I bought it:

http://www.planetnatural.com/cgi-bin/planetnatural/can-combo-33

The fan is 449 CFM, and the filter is rated for more cubic feet then the cubic feet of my grow area. Due to both products being Can brand they fit into each other without an additional flange. The plan is to let it sit in the corner of the room, in the back, or mount it up high on the ceiling. There is only one access point into the carbon filter, and that is where the blowing side of the fan will rest. Constantly sucking up air in the room, and pushing it through the filter. The fan dedicated to this job is rated at a higher CFM then the fan dedicated for an active exhaust. Also a Speedster fan controller was purchased to have the ability to lower the fan speed of the 409 CFM dedicated exhaust blower if stinky air is getting pushed out of the room before it can be scrubbed. Again, there is no way for ducting to be run out of the back of the scrubber unless I cut it open somehow (not sure you should do that?). I already have all three fans.


DonJones said:
The upper left active exhaust vent goes into a 4"x 12" square duct. Then where does that duct go to and what is it exhausting for , air circulation or heat?

A 409 CFM Sunleaves blower is going to be hooked up to a foot of ducting and blowing warmer air (notice the 6" hole in the top left of the partition door, left of the door) out into the rest of the basement. If this raises the ambient temperature of my basement/house, I will take the ducting out of my house by dumping it by a window. I do not anticipate this being the case, but if it is the case, I am ready for it with the solution. The cooling of the light should be exceptional with cool air rushing over the light, then being dispelled out of the room, then house by way of the light cooling system.

DonJones said:
Is the partition going to be sheet rocked on both sides or only one?

Yes only one side will be sheet-rocked, I don't care about the aesthetic interior. Also I setup with the handyman to have the ceiling sheetrocked as well, this should help with control over airflow/lighting. He will also cut the three holes in the diagram I made. I was advised by a couple of peopel not to cut holes through the floor joist if I can avoid it, something about their thickness and its importance in structural integrity (this house is almost 100 years old). Having sheet-rock going up on the ceiling should resolve several of the issues you brought up. I am going to take some 'dry-run' tests, to analyze the temperature, daytime/nighttime, the light leak, and the changes in RH. If termperture is still too warm there are some options I have with runnign ducting through a vent in my basement that is an active A/C fed cooling vent with ducting and dump it into the room form the above the floor joists (I can make a small hole in the sheet-rock ceiling if this is needed). This would be bringing in warm/cool air depending on the season as it would be the same air the rest of my house is getting from my HVAC.
 
snipped lots of great stuff for clarity...

1) Either way, I am scared of heat, I am paranoid of a fire,[/QUOTE

Rightly so, you are putting streetlamps in your basement. I had screwed up my automation settings and shut off a blower instead of a lamp. A temp sensor on my alarm system sent me a recorded message. If I had been further away...
Anyways, I don't mean to fear monger here but you have your priorities right. Be careful indeed. It can and does happen.
 

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