HELP - First Grow, Ready to Harvest?

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dieselboi

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Hello, I am in desperate need of consolation from a professional. These plants are going to be ready any day now, but I'm nervous about cutting to early or too late. Can you guys take a look at these photos and let me know how far out I am?

When I started this grow, I had no idea just how well these plants would do. Now that that I'm realizing how much potential they have I'm taking this much more seriously. This is an out door Sour Diesel grow, and my first grow. I have two mother plants and a small clone, all in 5 gallon buckets with potting soil, and some generic liquid fertilizer I got on Amazon (I've been using veg / flower specific fertilizer appropriately).
 

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I would wait until you see Cloudy with at least 20% amber
Thanks, yea that's what I've been reading. I have a couple clarifying questions though.

1.) it's hard for me to tell through the jeweler's lens if they're "cloudy" vs clear. They're much cloudier now then they were. I am able to easily see the difference between clear/cloudy and amber though. Do the pics I uploaded look cloudy?

2.) I'm seeing a TON of amber on the protruding leaves. The pics I uploaded are from the buds themselves, which have very little amber at this time. Is this any cause for concern?
 
If you can see the amber i would just wait until you can see 20 to 30% amber on your buds. And most of them look cloudy to me.
 
If you can see the amber i would just wait until you can see 20 to 30% amber on your buds. And most of them look cloudy to me.
Thank you! One more question, do you think I should start flushing now? I don't know how many weeks I have to go, so I don't know when to start
 
Thats your call. Don't get me started. I never starve my plants before i harvest. And you cant drain the nutes out of the plant material no matter how much water you feed them. Total complete bullshit. Read a book on Plant Botany and you will see what I'm talking about.
 
Hello, I am in desperate need of consolation from a professional. These plants are going to be ready any day now, but I'm nervous about cutting to early or too late. Can you guys take a look at these photos and let me know how far out I am?

When I started this grow, I had no idea just how well these plants would do. Now that that I'm realizing how much potential they have I'm taking this much more seriously. This is an out door Sour Diesel grow, and my first grow. I have two mother plants and a small clone, all in 5 gallon buckets with potting soil, and some generic liquid fertilizer I got on Amazon (I've been using veg / flower specific fertilizer appropriately).
Nice work, I would stay the coarse and and look at them again in another week see if you get more amber. What state are you from? Those trichomes look like mine right now.
 
Nice grow...some of those diesels can grow like trees....what kind of fragrance to your girls emit?

like others have said , wait about a week or two ......

don’t worry about flushing , your plant will only uptake what it needs and leave the rest in the soil , flushing is a cannabis myth and it’s difficult for some growers to change their old habits , even if they are shown scientifically , some hard headed growers won’t change...why? because if it ain’t broke don’t fix it mindset
 
Thank You Big for being truthful. Good posting.

Its kinda like ppl that carry a rabbits foot for luck. They believe it works, the rabbit believes he is missing a foot. Which one can prove he is right?
 
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giphy.gif


Question for anybody growing indoors and their main line of nutes is Chemical like Advanced Nutrients Connoissuer A and B? Here is why I flush usning Chemical Nutes





Here are the cannabis flushing time recommendations by media
Medium Scale Greenhouse; SPARC . Photo by David Downs.


Medium Scale Greenhouse; SPARC . Photo by David Downs.
Clay Loam: 15- 20 days.
Soils:
Sandy Soil: Flush for a week. It doesn’t contain very much organic matter to bind the nutrients and it rinses readily.
Porous Loam: Flush for 10-15 days. Some nutrients are held tenuously to the matrix and need a bit more flushing than sandy soils.
Heavy Loams and Clays: Flush for 15-20 days. These soils bind nutrients that are hard to rinse away and must be used up by the plant.
Enriched Soils and Mixes: Soils that were enriched using additives such as plant meals and manures may not require any flushing.
Soil microorganisms dissolve the nutrients locked in organic compounds and provide them to the roots as needed. Most nutrients that are left are still locked up in organic matter. There is probably very little free N. However, if bottom leaves are not yellowing, there is too much nutrient left in the soil and the mix should be flushed.
Planting Mixes: Planting mixes differ in their abilities to buffer or hold nutrients so each should be dealt with in its own manner.
Peat moss and Coco: Flush one week if bottom leaves are green and 3-4 days if they are yellow. These mediums buffer nutrients (nutrients attach to them), but flushing will have a noticeable effect on the crop. The free nutrients are already dissolved and are easily rinsed away.
Medium-free/Hydroponic Systems (aeroponic, deep water culture and some nutrient film techniques): Flush 3-4 days. As soon as the water/nutrient solution is removed and replaced with pH’d water, the roots have no access to nutrients. The plants react immediately, first showing signs in the lower leaves, which turn yellow. The buds also ripen faster.
Medium-based hydroponic and fertigation systems (drip irrigation, ebb and flow, wick, capillary mat, reservoir, manually irrigated nutrient/water): Flush 4-7 days. The roots in these systems are usually anchored in a non-nutritive mix composed mostly of coir or peat moss. Infrequently, clay pebbles or perlite are used. None of these bind tightly to the nutrients so plants respond immediately to the new nutrient-free environment.
What are chemically enhanced flushes?
Beautiful calyxes.


Beautiful calyxes.
Flushes remove or make nutrients unavailable to the roots so plants are forced to use their reserves for growth. The free nutrients that were in the xylem or dissolved in the extracellular water bind to molecules in the plant’s bio-system, creating a smoother draw.
The most popular flush is plain water. Salts in the media or in hydroponic units are all water soluble, or they’re precipitated, that is, have dropped out of the solution.
Precipitated nutrients cannot be taken up or used by the roots. Other salts are bound to larger organic molecules attached to the planting medium. These are only moderately available to the roots and are made available through mycorrhizae and other organisms in the rhizosphere (the area of the media that surrounds the roots). All other salts are soluble and drain out when flushed.
A few flushes claim that they contain chelates that actually draw nutrients from the plants. This may be true but has not been proven yet.
Once plants are flushed they draw from nutrients within their systems.
First they use the unbound nutrients held in the xylem and the extracellular water channels.
Then the mobile nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg) migrate from the lower parts of the plant to the canopy that is getting light.
A large light unobstructed plant will deliver nutrients to the sunlit sides as well as the top of the plant. Rather than only going up, the nutrients travel out, to the growing tips and maturing flowers.
The immobile nutrients, boron, calcium, copper, iron, manganese and zinc remain stationary. Chlorophyll and other mineral-laden organelles in the cells break apart, facilitating the migration of the minerals they contain to the most active areas of the plant. Lacking the macro-nutrients, these leaves lose their green color created by Mg, turn yellow or tan and dry up.







 
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Nice grow...some of those diesels can grow like trees....what kind of fragrance to your girls emit?

like others have said , wait about a week or two ......

don’t worry about flushing , your plant will only uptake what it needs and leave the rest in the soil , flushing is a cannabis myth and it’s difficult for some growers to change their old habits , even if they are shown scientifically , some hard headed growers won’t change...why? because if it ain’t broke don’t fix it mindset
So say you are feeding nutes instead of organic teas, are you at least dropping the nutes last 2 weeks . I mean it is not a flush per say where you run 3 times the water through the soil which I agree does nothing good. But I do stop feeding myself
 
https://www.marijuanapassion.com/threads/flushing-plants.78880/post-1107106

Flushing has been a debate for a long time. If you google “Flushing Cannabis” the very first Websites says “Flushing is free and easy technique that may improve the quality and smoothness of your cannabis buds before harvest.” …but is that true?

Do I flush?
Is flushing the right choice for my garden?
Will flushing help my grow to a cleaner smoke?

These might be some of the questions you might have. To answer these questions, we must first understand what flushing is, and where did the term come from.

FLUSHING - to flush, the act of cleansing a plants roots of nutrients and contaminants by giving the plant large amounts of water (usually equal to 3 times the volume of soil the plant is in).

The term Flushing came to be when a soil grower used the wrong nutrients, and instead of throwing the soil, this idea came to be.

From the same website aforementioned above, they go on to myths of growing and say this:

***However, flushing does not “leach out” nutrients/minerals that are already in the buds. While your plant can use up extra stored nutrients in the leaves of the plant, this does not remove a “chemical” taste from your buds if you’ve provided too many nutrients throughout the flowering stage.

Many people believe that flushing with plain water takes nutrients (and thus bad taste) out of the buds, in a sense, returning them to their ‘natural flavor’. Unfortunately, this just isn’t the case.

When it comes to ensuring good taste and smell of your cannabis plants, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Instead of relying on the flush to prevent extra nutrients from being stored in your buds, it’s better to avoid ever giving the plant more nutrients than it can use in the first place. That means keeping nutrient levels as low as you can throughout the grow while preventing nutrient deficiencies.***

I personally don’t believe in Flushing at all, unless used for its original purpose of cleaning out wrong nutrients from the soil.

(By YarraSparra)
I will list some points that not only challenge the absurd impracticality and illogicality of this myth, but point out how the pseudoscience behind it is fundamentally flawed (as is all pseudoscience) and can be countered by what is known about basic plant biology.

Robbing plants of essential nutrients at any stage of their life cycle is NOT beneficial for growth. I challenge anyone to provide a single peer reviewed paper from a reputable journal that provides evidence suggesting otherwise.

If this was practical, wouldn’t you expect all big agricultural hydroponic growers adopt the same practice?

Plants take minerals into their tissues, from their roots via the treachery elements; i.e. xylem. Once these minerals are in the plant, they are there to stay, the plant does not expel them, unless it’s through senescence-driven abscission of leaf petioles. From the treachery elements nutrients are translocated into the phloem - the plant’s ‘blood supply’ - after being integrated into various biomolecules, or are used for various metabolic functions. Where is the logic in thinking the plant ‘uses’ these up in that last week of flushing, in order to avoid smoking them? All the N P K Fe Mg Ca etc. is still there.

For arguments sake say we counter the last point by suggesting these minerals in their ‘raw form’ will taste ‘hasher’ or ‘nastier’ in the form of pyrolytic breakdown products (formed when weed is burned) than artifacts of larger biomolecules of which these minerals/macro nutrients are now a part of, for example phosphorylated PO43-. Even if this was the case it still doesn’t correlate with the myth, as the transports steam in the treachery elements is measured in minutes not a week. i.e. a PO43- molecule does not wait around in these vessels for a week before subsequent translocation and modification.

If there was any truth to this myth, then plants grown in soil would always taste worse than plants grown in hydro. Why? Because obviously soil is not an inert medium you can flush for a week. And a plant CANNOT distinguish between a PO43- molecule that comes from soil from that of a PO43- molecule that comes from hydro solution (which also debunks another myth, but we’ll leave that one).

Are there studies that have conducted double blind trials to investigate if flushed weed tastes any ‘sweeter’ than unflushed weed. Again, need peer reviewed papers. And doesn’t have to be weed, can be strawberries or any other type of fruit.

What is the proposed mechanism to support this myth, and how is it consistent with fundamental plant biology.

How does starving the plant of food in the last week increase thc production in the trichome? Papers?

Given, under certain conditions stressed plants upregulate certain defence compounds, but they will almost certainly produce less inflorescence weight per watt of light. Growth is always retarded under stress - not promoted. Nutrient starvation is a form of stress. Looking for peer reviewed papers that suggest otherwise.

Those of you set in your ways, each to their own and best of luck to you. Those who are willing to change their views in light of new evidence, or lack thereof, be ready for increased yields by feeding those hungry ladies right up until the second you chop
 
giphy.gif


Question for anybody growing indoors and their main line of nutes is Chemical like Advanced Nutrients Connoissuer A and B? Here is why I flush usning Chemical Nutes





Here are the cannabis flushing time recommendations by media
Medium Scale Greenhouse; SPARC . Photo by David Downs.


Medium Scale Greenhouse; SPARC . Photo by David Downs.
Clay Loam: 15- 20 days.
Soils:
Sandy Soil: Flush for a week. It doesn’t contain very much organic matter to bind the nutrients and it rinses readily.
Porous Loam: Flush for 10-15 days. Some nutrients are held tenuously to the matrix and need a bit more flushing than sandy soils.
Heavy Loams and Clays: Flush for 15-20 days. These soils bind nutrients that are hard to rinse away and must be used up by the plant.
Enriched Soils and Mixes: Soils that were enriched using additives such as plant meals and manures may not require any flushing.

Planting Mixes: Planting mixes differ in their abilities to buffer or hold nutrients so each should be dealt with in its own manner.
Peat moss and Coco: Flush one week if bottom leaves are green and 3-4 days if they are yellow. These mediums buffer nutrients (nutrients attach to them), but flushing will have a noticeable effect on the crop. The free nutrients are already dissolved and are easily rinsed away.
Medium-free/Hydroponic Systems (aeroponic, deep water culture and some nutrient film techniques): Flush 3-4 days. As soon as the water/nutrient solution is removed and replaced with pH’d water, the roots have no access to nutrients. The plants react immediately, first showing signs in the lower leaves, which turn yellow. The buds also ripen faster.
Medium-based hydroponic and fertigation systems (drip irrigation, ebb and flow, wick, capillary mat, reservoir, manually irrigated nutrient/water): Flush 4-7 days. The roots in these systems are usually anchored in a non-nutritive mix composed mostly of coir or peat moss. Infrequently, clay pebbles or perlite are used. None of these bind tightly to the nutrients so plants respond immediately to the new nutrient-free environment.
What are chemically enhanced flushes?
Beautiful calyxes.


Beautiful calyxes.
Flushes remove or make nutrients unavailable to the roots so plants are forced to use their reserves for growth. The free nutrients that were in the xylem or dissolved in the extracellular water bind to molecules in the plant’s bio-system, creating a smoother draw.
The most popular flush is plain water. Salts in the media or in hydroponic units are all water soluble, or they’re precipitated, that is, have dropped out of the solution.
Precipitated nutrients cannot be taken up or used by the roots. Other salts are bound to larger organic molecules attached to the planting medium. These are only moderately available to the roots and are made available through mycorrhizae and other organisms in the rhizosphere (the area of the media that surrounds the roots). All other salts are soluble and drain out when flushed.
A few flushes claim that they contain chelates that actually draw nutrients from the plants. This may be true but has not been proven yet.
Once plants are flushed they draw from nutrients within their systems.
First they use the unbound nutrients held in the xylem and the extracellular water channels.
Then the mobile nutrients, nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and magnesium (Mg) migrate from the lower parts of the plant to the canopy that is getting light.
A large light unobstructed plant will deliver nutrients to the sunlit sides as well as the top of the plant. Rather than only going up, the nutrients travel out, to the growing tips and maturing flowers.
The immobile nutrients, boron, calcium, copper, iron, manganese and zinc remain stationary. Chlorophyll and other mineral-laden organelles in the cells break apart, facilitating the migration of the minerals they contain to the most active areas of the plant. Lacking the macro-nutrients, these leaves lose their green color created by Mg, turn yellow or tan and dry up.







Thanks nice read.
 
I forgot that Pute Flushes. To each his own as i have always said. Pute my buddy no matter what.
 
Dispelling The Myths: The Importance Of Flushing Your Plants Before Harvest
September 14, 2018 | 120




plant flushing

The following blog on plant flushing is a guest post from Advanced Nutrients. The views, thoughts, and opinions expressed in the text belong solely to the author, and not necessarily to the CannaCon organization, employees or other related individuals.
Within the world of cultivation, there seems to be debate over the topic of plant flushing. Opponents of the technique believe that flushing plants prior to harvest will rob them of vital nutrients — an obviously bad idea. On the other side of the divide, advocates proclaim that flushing frees the plants of excess nutrients and contaminants and leads to an overall higher-quality product.
In this article, we’ll explore the truth about flushing: Precisely what it is, why it’s so important for growers to flush their plants, and the best way to go about flushing for maximum benefit.

What Is Flushing And Who Should Do It?
Before we get into the reasons why flushing your plants is so important, we need to understand exactly what it is. Flushing involves watering your plants without any added nutrients for a period of time — anywhere from a day or two to a week or more, depending on your growing medium — prior to harvesting. The purpose of this is to allow the plants time to use up the nutrients that have already built up within them, thereby lessening the overall nutrient and contaminant load of the final product.
We recommend flushing for growers of all types, whether hydro, coco coir or soil — though the time period for flushing will vary, depending on the medium.

The Importance Of Flushing
Though some in the industry have argued otherwise, the importance of flushing your plants has been affirmed by the vast majority of serious growers. Most experienced cultivators have tried not flushing before harvest, which has caused them to experience first-hand the glaring difference in quality of the yield.You see, during the growing cycle, your plants store excess amounts of nutrients, salts and other compounds. If you don’t allow the plants a chance to dispose of these surplus compounds by flushing them before harvest, your final product will be much harsher and more bitter tasting. Failing to flush can also cause your product to suffer from other negative side effects, such as black ash and an unpleasant chemical taste and smell.
The truth is, not flushing nutrients before harvest can seriously compromise the quality of your high-value crops.

To Flush Or Not To Flush: Examining The Arguments For And Against
Despite the overwhelming majority of growers who understand the importance of flushing and have verified its benefits through their own practice, there are some who argue against it.
The anti-flushers make a few bold claims, including:
  1. Robbing plants of nutrients at any stage of the grow cycle is counterproductive and does not benefit growth in any way.
  2. Once nutrients are absorbed into the plant tissues, they are there permanently. The plant cannot expel them or use them up simply by denying it more nutrients.
  3. If flushing was in fact a beneficial practice, then plants grown in hydro would always taste better than plants grown in soil because soil cannot be effectively flushed.
  4. Withholding nutrients causes stress to the plants, which impedes growth rather than encouraging it.
  5. Flushing plants is “pseudoscience” that has not been supported or backed by any legitimate scientific studies.
Let’s address these anti-flushing arguments one by one.
  1. Flushing your plants does not involve robbing them off nutrients. On the contrary, it allows your plants the chance to use the excess nutrients they have accumulated throughout the grow cycle. When you feed your crops full nutrient loads right up until the time of harvest, they retain an overabundance of compounds that affect the quality of the final product — including its taste, smell and overall smoothness.It’s also important to note that the main purpose behind flushing is not to encourage substantial new growth — although, flushing can cause your crop’s floral blooms to swell, since plants are not expelling all their energy on nutrient uptake.
  2. Any grower who has experienced nutrient burn knows the argument that plants cannot expel excess nutrients holds no weight. Ask any seasoned cultivator how to fix nutrient burn and they will tell you: You need to flush your plants and allow them time to use up the excess nutrients.The same logic applies to pre-harvest flushing. You’re giving your plants just enough time to use up surplus nutrients, salts and other compounds.
  3. The argument that soil can’t be effectively flushed is simply illogical and just plain wrong. Plants grown in soil can be flushed — it just takes a longer period of time than flushing plants grown in hydro or coco.
  4. It’s true that withholding nutrients places stress on plants and causes them to increase defense compounds. However, in certain plants, the primary defense compounds are actually the most desirable constituents, so flushing before harvest can significantly increase the value of the final product.
  5. At Advanced Nutrients, we employ the largest team of Ph.D. botanists, microbiologists, entomologists, hormone specialists and organic chemists in the industry. These scientists are dedicated solely to studying cultivation best practices and are constantly conducting laboratory research. The notion that plant flushing is “pseudoscience” is simply absurd.

The Truth About Flushing
Flushing plants before harvest is indeed a beneficial practice. However, there is a right way and a wrong way to go about it. In truth, the anti-flushers make a valid point when they say that it can rob your plants of nutrients — IF you are flushing with just plain water.The fact is, flushing with plain water can cause your plants to lose some floral growth and resin percentages. This is why it’s critical that you use a quality flushing agent that is designed specifically for the type of plants you grow.
When it comes to a flushing agent, you want to be sure to use one that contains a range of chelates. Chelates are organic compounds that can bind with other chemicals and substances. During the flushing process, these chelates will attach themselves to the excess nutrients, salts and other compounds in your plants and force them out.
At the same time, your plants utilize the stored nutrients they need during these last few days and hours prior to harvest. A high-quality flushing agent will provide your plants the support they need through this process, along with assisting them in purging the excess compounds that you don’t want in your final product.

Timing Is Key: When To Flush Your Plants
Along with using the right flushing agent, you need to ensure you’re flushing at the right time in order to reap the maximum benefits of flushing. Use the following as guidelines for flushing prior to harvest:
  • If you’re growing in soil, begin flushing between one and two weeks before harvest.
  • If you’re growing in coco, flush your plants for up to one week prior to harvest.
  • If you’re growing in hydro, your plants only need to be flushed for one to two days.
Of course, you’ll need to monitor your crops closely during the flushing process to ensure they don’t turn too yellow. Adjust your flushing times as necessary to find the ideal time for your plants.
To learn more about cultivation and nutrients visits https://www.advancednutrients.com/articles
 

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