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Discussion in 'Sick Plants & Problems' started by Jray, Aug 11, 2019.
I need help cause this spreading like wild fire these spots
bugs ,looks like you have mites , get a good mitreside one for vegetables is the best , your along way off smoking so you can go hard with a spray get all the underside of leaves ,you will probly need to do a couple of times , I had my first encounter with spidermite this year ,freaked out, then the MP crew put me on the right track , a couple of sprays and it all worked out fine , if you get a spray bottle with water and spray over the plant you will see webb if its spider mite but there are heaps of different mites , take a photo of underside of leaves without touching plant and Zoom in , you might see what you have
I use Dr Zymes for everything and I am an organic gardener. You will have to spray daily for a few days if you use it. Good luck, looks like they got away from you. we need to check our plants daily. Get yourself a 60x loupe to see what you are fighting. Good luck.
Make sure that you actually have mites before you treat your plant with anything. I personally do not think it looks like mite damage. As one who has had mites more than I care to remember, this just looks different. As you are going to need a loupe or microscope anyway, get one now and check, as Rosebud has suggested.
What are you feeding your plants and how often do you feed them? I am leaning more towards something nutrient related.
To me it looks more likely a Molybdenum deficiency but since your not showing under the leaves it's not known if it is a Molybdenum deficiency.
If it is a bug infestation of your plants I would like to see the underneath the leaves if you could show a picture of that and post it here.
If it is as we all have stated that it being a bug problem here's some much better steps and more organic and safer alternative then using dangerous insecticides read on to find out more!.
Try to look for spider web covering the leaves and the stem, the best way is at night- direct a flashlight and check!! I am not a expert in pests but they do look like spider mites to me.
I suggest to keep this plant away from your other plants if any. Also mix 1TBLS neem oil and dish soup in a gal of water and soak your plants to get rid of mites.
Spider mites are also called webspinning mites. They do damage by sucking the contents out of the cell. They occur often on water stressed plants
"To the naked eye, spider mites look like tiny, moving dots; however, you can see them easily with a 10X hand lens. Adult females, the largest forms, are less than 1/20 inch long. Spider mites live in colonies, mostly on the undersurfaces of leaves; a single colony may contain hundreds of individuals. The names “spider mite” and “webspinning mite” come from the silk webbing most species produce on infested leaves. The presence of webbing is an easy way to distinguish them from all other types of mites and small insects such as aphids and thrips, which can also infest leaf undersides."
So, check the underside to see if you establish that it is mites causing the problemoor if it really is a molybdenum deficiency!.
Because both of these symptoms are very similar to each other but can be distinguished from one another but seeing underneath the leaves if it's a bug infestation or not.
What should you do now?
Water the plants to avoid water stress which can promote them
Spray the underside of the leaves to remove mites. You can use an insecticidal oil or soap (or a combination of the two). Don’t spray when plants are water-stressed or if it is very hot since this will add stress to the plant. Here is some instruction on preparing soaps that I always use that are by far the best defense.
Organic Insecticidal Soap Recipe:
If you find this recipe is too harsh and burns your plants. Cut the soap amount in half or follow this spray with an immediate spray of plain water to protect your plant leaves. Also sensitive plants like ferns, succulents, azaleas and waxy leaved plants may be harmed by this spray.
Fill a 1 quart spray bottle with water
Add 1 Tablespoon organic dish soap (Look for a pure SOAP)
With regard to the soap. Any organic dish soap should work. You can use a non toxic dish soap by the H2O company. It makes sense to me to keep our cleaners,(especially on any smokable edible plants) safe for human consumption and to fill our homes with human friendly cleaning products. I want that for plants I’m going to eat and smoke too!.
You can also use a no more tears baby shampoo as well.
The Hardness of your water matters! This recipe is most effective with average to soft water. A hard water will yield a less effective insecticidal spray recipe and can leave soap scum on your plant leaves.
Less Is More!...
Household dish soaps are tricky to use. Liquid dishwashing detergents like Dawn often contain add ins to their formulas that can change the effectiveness for insecticide use and burn your plants. I don’t recommend them.
Never use this spray on plants that are wilted or under heavy stress unless you have no other option. Never re-spray a plant that has been burned by your first application of this spray.
Add ins that may enhance your soap recipe:
Although the basic recipe will work as described you may wish to enhance your formula by adding
1/4 Teaspoon of organic vinegar to combat mildew.
A few added drops of lavender, peppermint, or orange oil in this recipe will help repel pests and smells great!
Where to look for Pests on your plants:
Aphids and some other pests live mostly on the undersides of plant leaves.
You may see pests clumped under flowers on stems or in a flower center.
Some Pests hide, very successfully, in the leaf joints and flowering bud crowns of plants.
Aphids may be responsible for your flower buds going brown and falling off your plants. leaves curling and growing in a deformed manner? Might be aphids sucking on them. Aphids also cause a sooty virus on the undersides of leaves.
How to apply your DIY insecticidal Soap:
Organic Insecticidal Soap Recipe works on contact which means it must coat the insect to kill it.
This spray has No residual effect and must be applied several times at weekly intervals for best control.
Spray the entire plant with special focus on those areas of your plant where you can find the bugs.
Spray in the morning or evening in cooler temperatures and when plants are shaded. You want the spray to last. Once it dries the spray is ineffective.
KEEP IN MIND:
Plants can survive and even thrive under a minor pest attack. Use all organic controls with this in mind. Organic gardeners need to be ok with the idea of garden balance. Beneficial bugs NEED pests to consume or they will leave your garden.
However never the less always inspect all of your plants leaves including the underneath the leaves to as well to absolutely sure that it's a bug information or if it's just a molybdenum deficiency.
Hope this helps you out please feel free to reply if you have any other questions?
Baby Shampoo Spray
Baby shampoo is gentle and contains few, if any, unnecessary chemicals. It can also be used in a spray to help control common garden pests on both indoor and outdoor plants, including aphids, whiteflies, scale, thrips and spider mites. Make baby shampoo pesticide spray by combining 2 tablespoons of baby shampoo with 1 gallon of water. Thoroughly spray the solution on the marijuana plants and allow it to stay on for several hours before gently rising it off with a water hose or by taking the plant either in your bath tube or moving it outside all together. Do not use this spray in the sun or on marijuana plants or with hairy leaves or a wax-like coating, such as squash for example.
The strong scent of garlic keeps certain pests from feeding on your vegetables. For this organic pesticide, combine 10 to 12 garlic cloves with 1 quart of water in a blender. After blending, allow the mixture to set for 24 hours. Then strain it through cheesecloth or coffee filter covering the opening of a glass jar and add 1 cup of cooking oil if so desired. This concentrated mixture can be stored for several weeks until ready to use. For an even more powerful homemade pesticide, add 1 tablespoon of cayenne pepper to the concentrated mixture and let it soak for another 24 hours before straining the liquid once again. When ready to use, dilute 1/2 cup of the liquid with 1 gallon of water.
Red Pepper Spray
Known for its ability to add spice and flavor to recipes, red pepper powder can also be used to create a homemade pesticide that is safe to use in vegetable and/or marijuana gardens. Combine 1 tablespoon of red pepper powder, 6 drops of dish soap and 1 gallon of water and mix the ingredients thoroughly. Pour the red pepper mixture in a garden sprayer and thoroughly cover the marijuana plants with the spray. If needed, reapply the spray once a week to keep garden pests such as leafhoppers, spittlebugs, beetles and loopers off your marijuana plants.
Always test a bit of any organic spray mixture you make on a leaf before spraying the entire marijuana plant to make sure it doesn't burn or damage the foliage. Do this step the day before your plan to use the mixture on your marijuana plants. It's also best to spray your marijuana plant or plants early in the morning before the sun is hot or late in the afternoon. Some produces, especially those containing oils can burn plants if used during the sunny and hot portions of the day.
Hope this helps you out?
I have actually never found that any of the remedies listed will actually work against spider mites. And you don't really want to "kind of" treat them. Spider mites are truly one creature that "whatever doesn't kill it, makes it stronger". That is one reason that you want to make absolutely sure that you have mites before just spraying with "something". And you want to be serious about what you use. Mites can develop resistance to miticides very quickly. Many people will switch up treatments. I like SNS products.
How would you even know about what I have posted when you never even tried any of them before??
Because these methods really do work well and a lot of hemp farmers and food garden farmers out here in Henrico Virginia use these methods for their crops including Virginia Hemp Farms!.
Unless of course you love to smoke weed with lots of DDT's?
I wouldn't do it nor would I want any of our weed smoking brothers and sisters to be doing that including you because that crap causes cancers in the long run,
I'd rather you live longer then die from it in the long run further down the road.
Your very caring & loving brother of you & Marijuana,
Why would you assume that I hadn't tried those methods? I've grown for decades and have tried all the methods that you listed. None of these are really effective against spider mites. While some of these products do in fact advertise that they will eradicate mites, they simply do not. *****-footing around with mites with things like insecticidal soap only makes them stronger. I truly was not kidding when I said that whatever doesn't kill them makes them stronger. I battled these buggers for years.
There are some good miticides out there that are not DDT or another poison.
I have used a green spray bottle of some stuff that I picked up at my local homedepot that was called Safers!.
That worked really well too never had any problems after using it.
Considered that is the same recipe I have listed here but to each is own right?
That's not mites, dad. The splotches are waaay big and mites are waaay tiny. If you didn't accidentally spray something caustic (bleach, etc.) or a solvent carrier, then the creature that attacked those unfortunate chillun is waaay bigger than a mite to chomp holes that big. Mites give you pin-hole or slightly bigger dots on top, small webbing under the leaf. If you got webbing, you got mites, but they didn't chmop those holes. Good luck out there.
Edit to add: Don't ever apply any sort of insecticide, fungicide, miticide or any other cides after your plants go into flower no matter what the data sheets or manufacturer says. You'll poison your friends and start horrible rumors like Adelaid Hills morning sickness/AKA: cannabinoid hyperemesis. If the plants aren't going to make it on their own, ditch them--they're only cannabis plants. Like the Village Green song says: Give it up, just let it go. A p.s.to all this: we've all smoked a lot more red spider mites than we'd like to believe. Mites don't kill, chemical preventatives can.
They doing better
Not mites. I'm late to the party but for the record, that is NOT mite damage. And HG and pencilhead are giving you good advice: be certain what your problem is before you try to throw the home depot garden section at it. True miticides applied incorrectly are the equivalent of taking your antibiotics only til your earache goes away. They breed fast and develop resistance in only a few generations. Use them very judiciously, and be thorough. And never apply the chemical ones past week 2 of flower. Ever. Nevereverer.
That being said, that's a micronutrient deficiency (possibly calcium or molybdenum, my hunch is calcium) and a foliar spray with GHMicro and / or calmag would be one approach. You'd still want to evaluate WHY you are deficient, and that would include doing a runoff test to make sure your soil hasn't gone sour and put you into lockout.
I don't think he understands about ph and nutrient absorption
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