Hi, total noob first time grower with some questions and a problem or two.

[Darkmatter]

OK, fair enough. lol

So do I clip the leaves in the circles listed as "1" at spot 3a, or 3b? lol

Also, do I need to do the same for the much less damaged leaves shown as "2"??

Thanks. Hopefully stopping the fert water will stabilize things. Although, I'm a little concerned now that adding any compost to add magnesium would also up the nitrogen back to toxic levels.

This may sound bonkers crazy, but, if I ground up and dissolved human vitamin magnesium and put it in a spray bottle and sprayed the leaves, would the plant be able to absorb that? lol Also, I have no clue how much magnesium to put into 1L of water if what I'm asking is even doable.

Like I said, I was going to add compost for magnesium, but I don't want to add more nitrogen.

 

[2broke2smoke]

How about don't add anything. They are not going to "starve" to death I promise you. I'm not convinced you need additional mag, as it is probably just locked out atm.

As far as cutting off the damaged leaf take the whole thing at the stalk

2b2s

 

[Darkmatter]

OK thanks. That's the info I needed. As it recovers will it grow new leaf stems to replace the lost ones? Maybe not in exactly the same place, but, in the end, somewhere? Assuming I don't "love them to death" first of course. heh

Edit: I just want to say again, I don't know how these things survived evolution... lol

 

[2broke2smoke]

They will replace the lost foliage and multiply it many times over. Btw, they are very hardy, you just have to stop loving them to death, lol

2b2s

 

[Darkmatter]

Sorry, I've got one more question. I read on another post someone mention putting honey over the "wound" after cutting a stem off at the stock, and wanted to know if that was something I should also do?

Thanks!

 

[ChronicalClouds]

Sorry, I've got one more question. I read on another post someone mention putting honey over the "wound" after cutting a stem off at the stock, and wanted to know if that was something I should also do?

Thanks!

if you were talking about my post I made in the beginning of last weekend I put it on fingertip and just rub where cut in the morning and by lunch time it hardened and covered whole thing no splinters or open holes left at all on either branch I cut

I’ll post a picture of them once I get off work

 

[Darkmatter]

Might have been. But I just cut them. My plants aren't that big yet so I figured it wasn't as big a problem.

In fact, to my surprise, when I went to prune the damaged leaves, I found that I had to be very careful because the plant was already starting to sprout new leaves just above the damaged ones, as if it knew those leaves weren't going to make it. Pretty damn smart for a plant. lol

BTW I do have a different question. This digital PH water tester's instructions are a bit vague. I says specifically to calibrate it using the powder that is PH 6.86 at 25c in a specified amount of water, but there is also pouches for PH 4.01 and PH 9.18 and the way it reads, it isn't clear if you also need to calibrate it for those ranges as well (apparently after you do the 6.86 one) or if that's optional.

I'm guessing you guys would know these things a lot better then "noobsause" me. lol

Thanks!

 

[2broke2smoke]

Tbh i just snap them off at their base. I have never put honey on a plant that I mearly pulled some leaf off. Honey is a natural antibiotic. I have used it once on an mj plant when I was grafting some trainwreck, Shire, and IBG onto my ECSD clone momma. I just would not recommend it for leaf removal

2b2s

 

[Darkmatter]

Thanks. I kinda figured that at the size these guys were at, it wasn't really going to be a problem, but it's also good to get confirmation when you're at the stage where you're "loving your plants to death." lol

Oh, do you have any advice for the digital PH meter?

Thanks!

 

[2broke2smoke]

Personally if in soil, I don't think ph meters are all that important. I say this because the soil ph is what you need to know, not the water ph. Your best bet imho, would be to simplify everything.

Soil it is pretty forgiving as far as media goes. Now commercial soils, fox farms, roots, etc, can vary a lot from one grow to the next. Due to the explosion of peeps growing weed the familiar soils were being rushed to market and often were too hot.

If you add Dolomite lime that will buffer your ph. If you have a commercial soil what is the NPK? Depending on soil all you should need to add is water for at least 2 weeks, realistically probably more like 4 to 5. When you determine that fertilizer is needed pick a product designed for the growth stage you are in and not a hundred other things some marketing genius tricked you into thinking you need, you don't. KISS you will be amazed how easy this can be

2b2s

 

[2broke2smoke]

Btw when it comes to ph meters, it is all about how much do you want to spend on replacement probes. I buy my ph meters from aliexpress these days. My last expensive meter the probe cost $120.00!

I buy cheap ph meters now, they last about 2 years

2b2s

 

[boo]

I've been using my meter for 4 years now, still the same battery...milwaukee makes the one I have...calibration is critical...I had a go at it and it was confusing...chil out and read the instructions until you find the path...I don't use the powder you've posted...good luck, once it's set up it works great...im in soil and pH all elements to maintain consistency...

 

[2broke2smoke]

Hey boo, my Milwaukee needs a probe it lasted little over 3 years, but at $120 for the new probe I took a chance on these Chinese ph meters 2 for $12 free shipping

2b2s

 

[boo]

hey 2B2S, how goes live my friend...6 bucks each...hmmm...the place I do binniz with gave me an extra one...some guy bought it and said it was broken...the owner looked in the package and saw the solutions were never used to calibrate it so the claim was bogus...damn, didn't know the proble cost so much...I'll toss it and use the extra one...

 

[2broke2smoke]

here is a little info on dolomite lime:

Variously called dolomitic limestone or just dolomite, garden-grade calcium magnesium carbonate raises the pH level of acidic soils. When pH levels are too low, the basic nutrients most plants need remains locked up in the soil, unavailable to the plants growing in the space. Most garden plants prefer a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. If your soil's pH is lower than that, dolomite may be the right garden amendment for your beds.

here are instructions on use:

1
Send a soil test to a county agent, universal extension service or professional lab for analysis. You can also use a home soil test kit, available at most garden centers, but most home test kits tell you only pH levels and the relative amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium that are in your soil. A more detailed lab test can also tell you whether your soil is deficient in magnesium.


2
Purchase bagged dolomitic limestone if your soil test concludes that your soil is both low pH and low in magnesium. On average, you need about 5 pounds of dolomite per 100 square feet of garden space for every 1 point of you need to raise your soil's pH, but sandy soil needs less than clay soil.


3
Prepare the garden bed before adding dolomite. Remove weeds and other unwanted vegetation, as well as other debris such as rocks and fallen branches. Rake the surface smooth for more even distribution of the amendment.


4
Put on protective gloves and long sleeves and pants, as well as a mask. Scatter the dolomite over the surface of your soil, using a rake to ensure that it is distributed evenly.


5
Use a tiller or spade to work the dolomite into the top 7 inches of soil. Smooth the area with a rake.


6
Water the soil thoroughly so that the compounds in the dolomite begin to leach into the surrounding soil.


7
Wait at least two weeks before setting out seeds or seedlings to allow the worked soil to settle in place.


Things Needed

• Soil test results
• Rake
• Gloves
• Long-sleeve shirt and pants
• Mask
• Tiller or spade
• Hose or drip irrigation system

Warnings

• The powdery and caustic nature of limestone makes it a potential irritant to skin and lungs. Wear a mask, gloves and long-sleeve shirt and pants when laying the material down.
• Research the soil needs of the plants you intend to raise in the garden. Some plants, including azaleas and blueberries, prefer acidic soil and won't perform well if you add dolomite to the bed.

Tips

• If adding dolomite to an existing garden bed, rake aside any existing mulch. Scatter the required amount of the dolomite over the surface of the soil, keeping it several inches from the base of each plant. Work it into the top inch of beds holding

I hope this helps people not familiar with this garden staple

2b2s

 

[2broke2smoke]

Hey boo, mine is prolly so pricey because it does EC, PPM, & PH

2b2s

 

[Darkmatter]

Hi all. Well I calibrated my digital water ph meter and the bottled spring water has a ph of 8.2. The runoff has a ph of 7.5.

I did get a new soil ph meter but it's just a cheap thing so I wouldn't say that it's likely to be very accurate. It says the soils ph is around 7, which would make sense if the water is just over 8, but down to 7.5 after it's gone through the soil.

Also, I have to process the photos yet, but I have a lot of new growth along the stem since I removed about 40% of the fertilizer dirt and replaced it with just plain potting soil, so I don't think they're suffering from to much nitrogen anymore.

To tired to bother with photos tonight. Tomorrow.

Edit: OK, it's tomorrow so here's some photos. My questions are, should I make my spring water slightly more acidic by adding a bit of vinegar to it? If I recall correctly (which I may not) they prefer a more acidic conditions. This should also make the soil a bit more acidic wouldn't it?

Also, in the first photo the largest of the lower leaves still have the yellow edges, and I wasn't sure if it was something that the plant will correct over time, or if I should clip them too? Same with the lowest large leaves in the 4th photo (3rd plant) which has a bit of droop at the very tip, but it's very small. BTW that 3rd plant (with the white spots) is the one that took the brunt of the mite damage. I've been checking them for new mites regularly.

BTW, if it matters for the strains, I'm growing 5 Alive and Star Killer.

I'll get back to you with soil NPK and if it has any of the micro-nutrients in it or not, as well as current plant heights.

Thanks!

Plant 1

Plant 1 (Close up)

Plant 2 (Close up)

Plant 3

Plant 3 (Close up)

 

[Darkmatter]

I forgot to get the NPK of the dirt and firt and the plant heights but I'll get them today. Any advice based on the ph values I got would be great.

Thanks!

 

[Darkmatter]

OK, time for a much overdue update.

The plants are doing pretty well. I've had to re-pot them once, and they have a lot of new growth.

I know (finally) have the nutrients for the 3 things I was using on top of what was/is the main soil medium, which is just plain old potting soil with nothing added to it. I looked at the bag and it doesn't mention anything about nutrients so I have no idea if it also has some natural NPK in it or not.

So, for what I am now using....

I'm mostly using the potting soil, with some of the dirt that also has some fert in it, which I will provide a photo of what's in it below. I also added some sand as it wasn't draining very well before, but now is.

Before I got the soil above, I was using potting soil and I added some fert to it, which was obviously to much since it burnt my plants, as you all know.

This is the "specs" on that stuff.

And lastly, the stuff I am no longer using, is the fert water that I was using at one point, but haven't been since you guys told me stop trying to kill my babies with love. lol..... heh :/

Lastly, I need to take a new photo of my biggest plant that I re-potted, because I see a bit of "burn" or death at the very tip of 1 set of leaves, and while I'm not 100% sure if it's new, I think it is, so it's possible when I re-potted that one, it got to much of the dirt that also has a small amount of fert in it. It's the fert dirt in the first photo.

My one main question, is regarding a better grow light. I will be moving these guys to a friends greenhouse, but because they are way behind in their growth due to the abuse they took from their father... uhh... me.... they aren't ready to flow yet, but I live in Ontario so the nights are getting long. The temp in the greenhouse is still around 85F, but my concern is the length of the night. If someone could recommend a "decent" LED grow light for 3 plants that will be taking up as minimal as possible a space in someone else's greenhouse, that would be great! I would like to spend aprox $100, give or take. Preferably from a place in Canada to avoid duty and the exchange rate, but if what I need can't be found it Canada, then so be it.

If the greenhouse plan falls through, I wondered if I would be able to construct a wooden frame and line it with clear plastic, glue, or melt the sheet edges together to form something close to air tight to keep the smell from getting out? I would then use a vent to a window, and a fan inside a room, but outside the sealed "tent" to both provide fresh air, and to create a positive air environment in the tent to push the smell out the window, and keep the cold out of the tent. I would of course, need the plastic to also go across the floor or it wouldn't keep the smell in, and I would need some sort of seal-able door so I could get in there. This would be an option of last resort though.

Thanks!

 

[Darkmatter]

Anyone? Maybe I should make a new post? I'll wait and see.

Thanks