In Need of Diagnosis!

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GreenisGrand

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Hello again everybody,
My crop has been coming along nicely although there have been a few bumps in the road. I've got a few plants with inter-veinal yellowing and browning/crisping at the tips and along the sides of MIDDLE and some upper leaves. I've been using Fox Farm Ocean forest soil, with fox farm nutrients but I haven't had to give them much as it seems the soil has more than enough nutes.

The bottom/lower leaves look quite healthy, so is this an immobile element problem? What I can't figure out is why are the upper leaves affected the most, and some of them are starting to look sort of bad.

My pH has been an issue too but I've finally gotten ahold of some good water w/ pH down (my well water's pH bounces like a rubber ball when I lower it, making it useless to fix this). This could be a few things, and I'd like some help so I don't keep treating the wrong problem.
Iron chlorosis?
pH burn?
Nutrient burn?
Potassium deficiency?
or deficiency caused by incorrect pH?
or just heat stress/burning?

I tried to give them a boost with a light foliar feed but that can only be a quick fix.

Another slight problem is I'm not sure if a few of my ladies are getting a little too hot under the lamps, they appears to be no burning but the edges of the leaf are curled up along the sides, it's just the "serrated" part of the leaf, if I'm describing it well. Here are pics in order of problem.

The pictures I took don't seem to show the leafs looking as bad as they really do in person, I'm not sure why. The browning and crisping is pretty bad, it's all along the leaf, etc.

Thanks again everybody!

chlorosispic?.jpg


chlorosis2.jpg


heatstress?.jpg
 
You def got some heat issues. The curling of the serated edges are a sign of heat stress.

If you say you have had ph problems then that could very well be your problem. Have you done a good flush and then hit them with a healthy feeding at a proper ph level? How old are they?
 
A few are 7 weeks old and the one shown with the nute burn i believe is about 5 weeks old.
apologies in advance for some of my redundant questions, I just want to make sure I get it! :)
so nutrient burn and nute lockout kind of go hand in hand? as in some nutes it needs are unavailable and there is too much of the available nutes?
where do the signs of each appear first? cuz it seemed to me like nutrient burn would start from the bottom and work its way up but i definitely agree with the lockout diagnosis.

So when I flush, should I flush with pH'ed water to help lower the pH, or should I just flush it with my normal water (which seems to be either 7 or above) and feed with nutrients in the correct pH range?

The plant dealing with heat stress isn't that tall, which seems weird because there are other plants much taller that are doing fine, but I've raised the light up some more and I've moved that lady out to the edges more to give her a break from the heat.
Thanks guys. and btw, is there a pH meter you guys could recommend? because I've had a hard time finding a reliable meter.
 
According to the sickness charts, that appears to be a magnesium deficiency. I have read that too much nitrogen can lock out other nutrients. Ph being off can also lock out nutrients depending on the direction of the ph. Any time there is an issue that you don't absolutely know what's happening, check the ph first as that is a common problem.

I have read and heard that the FFOF and FF nute additives are really hot, and many people have had issues with overferting with FF. I would definitely check the ph first(but don't use test strips or the cheap soil testers), then if that is within parameters, I would look at either adding some calmag or flushing then adding some calmag.

If the ph checks out try making up a light solution of calmag or just chelated magnesium and foliar feed them twice a day for a week and see if they get better. If that is the cure, you can add some greensand or the sweetening lime to the soil and just water it in. good luck with it :)
 
If you suspect that the girls are gettin too hot under the lights, just put your hand, palm down, over the tallest part of the plant and hold it there for about 10-15 seconds. If your hand get uncomfortably warm or hot then the lights are too close. If it doesn't get too warm for the back of your hand then the plants shouldn't be getting heat stress, unless you have no fans moving the air around the room. If you don't have any fans moving air, get some.
 

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