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Little help with PPM

SMOKINGRANPA

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I am trying to get a clearer picture of maintaining proper neuts in my DWC.
This is my understanding from reading many posts.

My tap water measures 150 PPM with TDC meter.
I add the manuf. rec amounts (Iam using GH fllora micro ,grow, bloom) and I get a reading of 360PPM with my PH at6.5-7.
I then correct my PH down to 5-5.5 and I get a reading of390PPM.
Okay, do I now watch the PPM and change water when the PPM gets to a certain low???
Also I read where some folks let the PH rise up, I would assume that is to provide adequate uptake over the entire neut range???

In my previous grow I just changed out the water every week? I do just 1 plant so maybe I am ingesting way to much info or maybe I will become a real farmer :vap-leafy_wave: So much to learn, so little time:vap-Bong_smoker:

Thanks SG
 
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When you say you are using the recommended amounts of the GH grow, mirco, and bloom, how much of each are you using? The reason I ask is because you are only adding 210 PPMs worth of nutes to your water. And a ppm of 390 is a fairly weak nute solution.

I pretty much follow the regime that you do. I draw water and let it sit for 12 hours or more for the chlorine to evaporate away. I then add the nutes (micro first all the time), and let let sit for a while so the buffers can do their thing. I then pH to about 5.4 or so and let the pH drift up, for the reason you mentioned. I change the nute solution out about every week to 10 days, depending on how much solution the plant is uptaking.

No difference running 1 plant or many, the principal is the same. Sounds lke you are doing this all right to me.
 

SMOKINGRANPA

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Thanks HG, okay what I did was add 1/2 tsp of each mic,grow,bloom. My mistake ,this is the manf. Suggestions per gallon and I added it to 31\2 gal. So thanks I feel like I am on the right track.
SG
 

trillions of atoms

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if you only add a little bit of nutes to your water there will not be enough buffer that's why you're having to pH. Your nutrient solution is to weak unless they are tiny seedlings.

you watch the total of ppms and nutrient solution level. As the water evaps and the plants drink. Ppm will shift.

depending on age of plants will change how much they are "eating" and "drinking".

If the ppms get to high...add r/o for topoff. If they get to low...add a bit of nutrient of each until you reach desired level.

I hit my plants hard all the way through. 200 ppm of "nutrient" is like eating a couple handfuls of popcorn to them. It will not feed their need. Use your mix and slowly bump it up over time. Use r/o for better results.

change solution every week or two max for best results once they start getting big.

If you "feed" enough...you do not need the "grow" portion of the line. There is plenty of N between the micro and bloom.
rez temp is important!!

Arreation is import!!!

Research research research!!
 

bagabones

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your starting tap water has a very low ppm so you don't need to worry about an R.O. ,,,,, is that city water or well?

as a guide for someone who is new start by

setting your ph at roughly 5.5+/-

you want the ph to drift upward.. this tells you your not over feeding!

ph slow rise = good
ph fall = bad

ppm rise = over feeding you need to lower ppm
ppm slow fall is good

if ppm drops fast and ph rises fast = under feeding...you need to raise ppm

the goal is to keep your ph rising slow

if your ph is 5.5 today and 6.2 tomorrow then you probably need to increase your ppm

if your ph is 5.5 on Monday and 3 days later is 5.7 your good

if your ppm is rising and your ph is flat.. your feeding to much
 

8planets8

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im going to keep this one under my radar LOTS OF INFO READ READ READ 888
 

trillions of atoms

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My ppm is under 50.. that is low for tap.

It all depends on WHAT is in the water. Thats why without testing- ro is ALWAYS recommended when growing- moreso in hydro.

I agree with some of your points bag and I hope your expierenced and not just a net-nerd like some- we need more expierenced advice givers here to avoid confusion.
 

bagabones

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my personal experience tells me :)

unless you have a severe water source with high levels of iron or salt (Na) and the ph is not starting high.. at say 8.0 then in most cases you would be ok without an RO provided your ppm is under 300

a water analysis would be the best way to go obviously and might save the expense of an RO

I personally have always dreaded having to use an RO ... it takes for ever to fill a 100 gallons unless you spend some$
 

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