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Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips

Discussion in 'General Outdoor Growing' started by TheStickyIcky, Jul 14, 2007.

  1. Jul 14, 2007 #1

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

    Fear and Loathing.

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    Outdoor Cultivation (Guerilla Grow) Tips

    I have seen a lot of outdoor grows that need some help. Not that I'm an expert, but I am fairly well-versed in the ways of guerilla growing. So, I thought I would make a list of tips and tricks to help out new growers. It's all really common sense.Stealth is everything with outdoor grows. You have other growers and police that will be looking for your crop and you have to conceal it well or someone will snatch it up.


    Scouting
    I would say almost half of the work I do is before any plants are even in the ground. Scout and scout well. If you live in the country and you can take off walking from your backyard and be in the wilderness that is great. It keeps you from leaving noticeable trails from roads and/or parking a car somewhere. If you can't, when searching for a spot always go for roads less travelled. The more traffic on a road the more problems that could arise (People see you coming out of a woods, walking down a road with gallon jugs, or any other conspicious activity). I ALWAYS have someone drop me off when I am transplanting, fertilizing or any time I am going to my plants. You NEVER want to leave your vehicle parked on the side of the road. Thats very suspicious and if people see it there a couple times they will begin to think something. A lot of people get robbed that way. Now, when you are looking for a spot you want to look for an area that gets PLENTY of light. Thats the other really important key. I like to put plants in places that get all of the morning sun until atleast 2 or 3pm and get indirect light the rest of the day. But, be careful that this place isn't in the wide open. Fields are an ABSOLUTE NO-NO.

    Picking a spot
    Good places are in cut timber and blackberry thickets. I like for the undergrowth to be as tall or taller than my plants at all times, especially harvest. In cut timber the plants will get plenty of light because of the spaces that are created by thinning out the trees. I like to find a big tree thats in an area that gets plenty of light and go to the fork of it and put plants right in the fork so that there are logs and brush on either side of the plants. Also if possible walk down as many logs as you can getting to plants, it eliminates or breaks up potential paths. Briar and blackberry thickets are very stealthy as well because a lot of times they will approach 10 feet in height and provide surrounding cover as well. Find away to go into the middle of the patch (going under limbs and stuff where it doesn't look as if a human has being going in there) and clear out a spot by cutting down the briars. Don't cut too much, just enough to clear enough area for the number of plants you plan on putting in there. There are plenty of other good places as well. Just make sure the surrounding vegetation and undergrowth is thick. If someone is going to find my plants I want to make them work for it. They wont be able to spot them unless they walk right up on them. I don't want someone to be able to spot my plants unless they actually get 10 feet or less from them. Thats why the surrounding growth is so important.

    Caring for your Plants
    Now that you have your plants in the ground (and I did say ground). Because you really want to stray away from buckets or other containers. They don't like natural. They standout even if you paint them. They also raise the height of your plants which makes them more visible and is also something you want to stay away from. Also, buckets and containers dry out quicker than the ground will. Which means you will have to make more trips to your plants. The next thing you want to worry about is paths. I try to go to my plants a different way every time I go to my plants. A path is your worst enemy. If you leave one, especially if its from the road chances are someone may end up walking down it eventually. So, try to go a different way everytime or atleast don't go the same way you did last time. You want to minimize the amount of trips to your plants as possible. And if they are in the ground you can do this. If you do leave a bit of a path you can use grass seed to cover it or plant some type of ivy to break the path up. Most types of ivy are nearly impossible to kill and you can just throw them along the ground and they will take root on their own. You can get away with going to your plants every two weeks (sometimes more if the rain is cooperative). Mother nature will take care of itself if you do things right. Also, most people should pretty much stray away from fences. They will give your plot away just as fast as anything. A fence is unnatural and will give you un-needed attention. Also, you have to carry that in there before and after growing season and its pretty hard to explain why you are carrying fence in and out of the woods. And if you leave it in there after season then you are risking someone finding it and the majority of people will know EXACTLY what it was for. I have found several as a hunter myself. Don't underestimate where hunters go or what they see.

    Other things to think about
    You never want to put too many plants in one spot. That only increases your exposure. A group of 20 is a lot easier to spot than a plot of 3. Never put all of your plants in one spot. Anything could happen to them and you don't want your entire crop to go down in one fell swoop (Animals, Growers, Police). Something else to make them harder to find are employing growing techniques such as LST, supercropping, and topping. Topping and Supercropping will keep the plants shorter and harder to spot. While LST can be very effective because you can grow a HUGE healthy plant and make it almost impossible to spot. If you keep tieing it over and running it along the ground you can grow it out with almost no risk of someone finding it. People aren't looking along the ground for plants, they are looking eye level. Another thing, if you plan to grow in that spot or area again don't cut the plants off and leave the stalk. Pull the plants and root up so someone doesn't see the stalks left over. Never leave any kind of trash near your plants or in the woods, this can also give them away. Water jugs, soil bags, fertilizers or anything else are all bad ideas. I try not to carry anything in or out with me unless it is neccessary. I always like to have some kind of back story as well as to why I'm in there. Have something in your mind already, don't try to improvise. This is just incase you run into someone in the woods while you are walking in and out (possibly the landowner). I use several including "I lost my hunting dog."; "Picking blackberries.", etc. If you ever think you hear someone coming or you get a bad feeling then leave the plants. You DON'T want to be caught tending to them. Always follow your instincts.

    These are pretty much the basics to Guerilla growing. I'm sure not everyone will agree with what I have to say and I'm sure there are things that I have left out, but this is a pretty good overview. Be safe, Be stealthy, and GOOD GROWING.
     
  2. Jul 15, 2007 #2

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

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    Thanks guys.

    I have been at it for probably 4 seasons now I think (If you are talking about how long it took me to learn what I have). I have learned from some pretty good growers though. People with 25-30 years in the guerilla game. If you are talking about how long it took me to write, probably 30 or 40 minutes. But, I was bored. So, oh well. ;) If it helps save one persons crop it was well spent time.
     
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  3. Jul 17, 2007 #3

    SFC

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    Great guide Sticky. The only thing I can add to it is the cornfeild game.

    First thing..... Wait until they spray! This is usually done when the corn is around knee high, they will also likely cultivate at this time.

    Plant at night. Place the plants in singles ,or maybe doubles and spread them way out. I walk 200 paces between plants. BTW to do this with any success you really need a GPS,and you need to go deep. When you do place a plant put it directly in line with the rows. Then clear 6-8ft to the south,and 3ft or so to the East,and West. To the North leave the corn basicly in place relatively close to the plant, not over top of it though. I cannot state enough the importance of clearing the grow spot. GPS as great as it is is not laser accurate. By clearing a 6x8ft spot you have something to see if you are off by 50ft or so. That doesn't sound like alot but it is. Not only that but if your plant is dug,or ate by critters you will be able see where it shoudl have been,and then delete it.

    This may sound like alot of work, and yes it is. That is the whole point. If LEO is flying around in the fall,and they realize how hard they will have to work, they will likely choose to pick an easier target. Just picture them hovering over head trying to tell the guys on the ground where they have to go, in the middle of a huge cornfeild. No fun for the guys on the ground,and it will eat up loads if time with the chopper. They would much rather find a large plot so they can get some time on teh 6 oclock news.....

    Good luck all.
     
  4. Jul 18, 2007 #4

    Mutt

    Mutt

    Mutt

    Just a Dawg

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    Thanks sticky...thread made sticky status. ;)
    I'll leave it open so it can be added to.
    If not adding just click the thanks button from here on out so it doesn't get cluttered.
    I ommitted the other threads that just said thanks so this can be an informative thread for new guerrilla growers.
     
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  5. Jul 18, 2007 #5

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    Sweet Cheeba Chiefa

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    Prefertilize the soilI know this means finding a plot, fertilizing then going back and planting but it could save you a great deal of time packing nutes and such back to the grow spot. Adding a lil perlite, lime, worm castings and potting soil a few weeks before planting would be very beneficial.
     
  6. Jul 28, 2007 #6

    gottagrow_420

    gottagrow_420

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    Very good advice for anyone. Thnx for the post, the only thing I could possibly add is to stress keeping your mouth shut. Dont tell your brother or cousin or anyone else. If you want it to stay YOUR grow keep your lips ziped. I think this is the single most important point of any grow even if you mess up on just about everything else you may salvage at least some bud but if you get busted or it gets stolen you get zip for your hard work.
     
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  7. Aug 7, 2007 #7

    Hick

    Hick

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    Git "R" lit

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    GUERILLA grows are covert, hidden, stealth, but not necessarily BIG..
     
  8. Feb 3, 2008 #8

    Ekoostik_Hookah

    Ekoostik_Hookah

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    Pee on bushes, or plants that are near your plants.
    DONT pee on the soil close to your plants......you just want your urine sent in the area...i believe it keeps deer away, and they will not nest where you have marked with urine...

    As far as protecting against bugs.....i spray a circle of killer.reppelent on the wildlife around my plants.....not close enough to get on the mj plants, but enough to keep some bugs out of the area.

    Also, if your looking to do just a few ourdoor mj plants...i would say learn about tree top growing.....its advised that your a good climber...but tree top grows are very stelthy, and can get lots of light.
     
  9. Feb 4, 2008 #9

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

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    :)
     
  10. Feb 5, 2008 #10

    Ekoostik_Hookah

    Ekoostik_Hookah

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    ""That's also fairly susceptible to helicopters. So, if they look for grows in your area with heli's you might want to stray away from this. It is a pretty effective way to hide your grow from people on the ground.""

    Do you understand how hard it would be to see a single MJ plant in a huge tree.
    I have done it several times in a tree, and i was never worried about heli's seeing my plants.
    I had 4 in one tree once, they all grew to about 5+ feet tall..

    The Heli's are looking on the ground for plants man, not on the tips of trees...... for sure
     
  11. Feb 5, 2008 #11

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

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    If you know about treetop planting, so do cops. So they look there. One plant is hard to spot anywhere. But, like I said it will be easier to find in a tree (which brings it up closer to the heli) than on the ground.

    Plus, its just not an option for most people. Most people can't climb good enough to get up in the tree safely and navigate their way around. Plus it would take quite a while to visit say 20 plants you had in trees. Just not very effecient, IMO.
     
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  12. Feb 5, 2008 #12

    Hick

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    Git "R" lit

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    I gotta go w/ sticky on this one.
    Treetop growing might work for some folks, but IMHO, a limited few. I have seen it done....somewhat successfully, but don't know anyone that ever done it twice.
    Plants in buckets are going to require someone to climb that tree, at least once p/week, with a bucket of water. Hoists 'n pully systems, would IMO, only attract attention to the grow.
     
  13. Feb 5, 2008 #13

    Ekoostik_Hookah

    Ekoostik_Hookah

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    yea i understand what you 2 are saying......but it works for me.

    However hick, you ( or I) dont use pullys, or buckets.
    I buy pre-camo burlap.....then i wrap up the soil in the burlap very well....
    The burlap is easy to mount up in the tree, and for added safety i tie the sack to w/e branch im using.( looks like a birds nest, if u can even see it)

    I did forget to mention that climbing is a favorite thing for me to do, weather its climbing rocks, trees, walls...w/e....ill climb it.
    so its not so bad to climb a tree, and check on my girls.
    and as far as watering goes.....it is outdoors, so it gets some water....but in a whole grow i only watered and gave nutes about 6 times.........wasnt to bad.:)
    w/e blows your skirt i guess?
     
  14. Feb 5, 2008 #14

    Ekoostik_Hookah

    Ekoostik_Hookah

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    Ya i guess so, what do ya mean by "make" ?? ( like why in quotes)

    all i really do is measure the size of the burlap, then i line a bucket with the burlap.....then transplant the plant into the burlap/bucket...
    then just tie off the burlap...and pull it out of the bucket.
    then walah you got a burlap grow bag.

    Its great that they make camo burlap :)))))
     
  15. Mar 26, 2008 #15

    TheStickyIcky

    TheStickyIcky

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    Well, it really all depends on what it looks like and such. I wouldn't put more than 5 in one spot.
     
  16. Apr 14, 2008 #16

    BigTree420

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    yea 5 is usually good...i usually do 5-10 ....this year im doing 3 plots of 10 and 1 plot of 5....ive gotta start doing some scanning of my woods myself tho cuz ive only got 1 spot and its almost time to start them lol
     
  17. Jan 6, 2009 #17

    papabeach1

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    saying going to fishing at the river is great excuse to use.. and come back says you dont have any luck of catching.. sometime you gotta catch some ;)
     
  18. Jan 26, 2009 #18

    longtimegrower

    longtimegrower

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    Over the last few years it seems you either don`t need to do any watering or you and all your buddies cant tote in enough water.
    It is hard to hall enough water during a long dry period too keep your plants growing. Mostly you will just be keeping them from dieing so everything you can do to save moisture and minimize stress will mean the difference in having a crop for the fall or not.

    Some things that will help cut down on watering trips. Buy some good seeds that grow well even under dry conditions I have found one line of seeds that i really think that does well and that i have a lot of confidence in because of the large stems and huge leaves and so I am sticking with them untill I learn of something better. I could list which ones but I don`t wan`t to influence your choice. Let trial and error be your guide.

    Plant in the ground and not in pots or you will have to go every other day and water if it turnes dry. Use good soil weather you have to carry it to your grow or pick a grow place with good soil. Plant after last frost but plant early this way your plants will get big enough and grow a good root system before the hotest part of the summer hits because this is usually the dryest part of the year. Most of the time. If you are setting out plants or clones and its early in the year dig your holes deep enough so you can set your plants deeper in the ground. You can just leave the top and the first couple leaves sticking out above the ground. This will give you a deeper root and even the stem part you burry will grow roots making a deep tap root. If your plants are knee to waiste high with lots of big leaves it will do fine with some dry weather. Let them go several days in dry conditions as long as its not stressing or wilting. This alows the tap root to search deeper into the soil in search of moisture. Once the roots grow large and deep you will find your plants do quite well without having to water three times a week. Even if you have 5 feet plants instead of 7 foot plants. I much prefer a five foot plant that no one saw me watering and that i get to harvest. Also you can cover the area around your plants with leaves small sticks and bark or even just some extra soil pulled up around them. Anything that will help hold in the moisture and make your lower roots grow deeper in the ground will cut down on your watering trips. If you can plant close to large logs because moisture will be present and last longer where the ground is covered and shaded by the dead tree trunk. The roots of your plant will grow in the direction of the most moisture even if its under a log. You wan`t cover to help hide your plants but try too stay away from large trees and bushes as the ground tends to dry out much faster where the trees are pulling all the water from the ground. One sumer we went from June 4th untill the first of october with only a trace of rain. I made use of some large log piles left rotting from when they cut timber out 2 years earlyer. It was like a huge pile of rotting potting soil that the roots could grow really Deep into to find moisture left from winter and spring rains.. Even under drought conditions my plants continued to grow.

    For me night time is the best time if you have to go water. During the day you can use bird watching and other excuses for being out but if your carrying a large container of water and your not going to a fire then it probally means your watering something and even the dumbiest people can figure out what you are up to. Even though its dark at night there is still at least 10 days a month with good moonlight to see by so you can leave those flash lights at home. For the other days if you go out and alow your self 30 min for your eyes to adjust to the low light you will find you can see quiet well to work at night. If you have a spot that you can only visit at night don`t be tempted to sex your plants with a flashlight. You can do like i do and either. Sex all your plants before you set them outside, this will mean you are only hauling water for the female plants, or you can cut a lower top off and bag it in a way you can remember where its from. Later you can sex it back at home. Watering after sundown gives your plants several hours for the moisture to soke in. This allows your plants time to use all it can before the heat of the day returns. When you do water take a few extra min to pour slowly so it will soak in and not just run off. This will also allow for more time before the next watering Trip.

    When it is dry plants are apt to stress a lot more, don`t do anything extra that will cause your plants too stress like topping LST or amending your soil. All of this should be halted when you notice a dry pattern starting. Some times you just have to waite it out and pray for rain. Even if you notice its so dry your plants aren`t growing any. They will survive if they are big enough and have a lot of large fan leaves to help hold water for the plant so dont be tempted to pull those big leaves to smoke or let light get to the plant. It is not uncommon to loose 50% or more of the big fan leaves during a dry period. Even if you notice your large fans turning brown and drawn up and falling off don`t panick. Plants can hold out for a long time untill rain comes. Your plants will be using this time to spread out underground so when it does rain they will hit a fast groth spurt that will replace the lost leaves and more than make up for the lost groth. I have even had the drought run well into the budding time. The buds grow slower and fill out slower when its really dry. Buds that have been set back will swell in a couple days after it finally rains. But even if it never rains intime before that years crop is done you can still have a stash for the winter if you have done the work and gone that extra mile to give your girls the best possiable shot of making it even under dry conditions. Slim
     
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  19. Jan 31, 2009 #19

    Hick

    Hick

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    Git "R" lit

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    Please, post questions in a new thread, not in this one.
    This is a "sticky" dedicated to giving tips/advice on OD guerilla grows. If it isn't a "tip" beneficial to the subject it will be deleted.
    THANK YOU..:D

     
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  20. Jan 31, 2009 #20

    slowmo77

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    i've found it very useful to plant near creeks and streams. not so close that someone walking the creek could find my plants but close enough were i don't have to carry water in ever. a big black trash bag rolled up in your pocket will hold more water than you can carry without ripping, its easy to carry and easy to work with. fill it up with as much as you can carry without killin yourself, then when your ready to water just cut a small hole in the corner and let it pour. twist and tie to stop the water. works like a charm.

    i also take a medium container with me filled with what ever nutes i plan to use. then i bury it that way its there when i need it and less to carry in. but make sure its buried where YOU can find it. i mark things buried with old rusty coke cans under the leaves or something that blends in the area that only i would remember to look for. good luck this year and stay safe everyone
     

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