Please Help!!!!! Possible Nute Burn!!!!

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Hey guys! Okay, so I am a first timer here and I have a question. I have 4 plants in total and they are each about 1 and a half weeks old. 4 of them have wilted brown spots on the tips of the leaves (appearing burnt/shrivled), but not every leaf. The one that doesn't have any brown spots has very small white spots on the center of the leaves. I am using organic fertilized soil. I didn't realize that I shouldn't add any nutes until 2-3 weeks, but I did about 3 days ago and yesterday and I also realized I used waay too much. Could this be the cause? Nute burn? I flushed the soil pretty well last night and sprayed the leaves with filtered tap water. Maybe overwatered too?
On another note, the temp in the room is slightly high (about 80 but in the upper 90's when I put the babies under my lights. I work during the day and I am afraid to leave the lights on all day and night because of the heat, so I grow outside all day until about 7pm and then I put in grow box from 7pm until 3am. They are in complete darkness from 3:30AM until 7am, although they are only in direct light from 12pm until 3am. I have plenty of lights (about 450w output using cfls. I have an intake fan, exhaust fan, light-cooling fan, and another fan to help circulate air. White refelctive paint also on the inside.
What am I dong wrong? I mean I know the temp is a little high but it doesn't seem ungrowable, as I have another plant (not canibus) that seems to grow fine just in the window. I don't know the ph of the soil but it's new soil and the plants are still young. I don't believe humidity is the issue either. Can I resolve nute burn if that's what it is? There are no holes in the leaves so I doubt there are bugs. Besides these symptoms they seem healthy in color and texture. Please help! My babies are dieing!! I'm seriously scared that they may not make it.
 
Hey man we are all here for ya. Take a step back and relax. Everything will be fine. You want to flush with 3 times the amount of soil. For instance 1 gal. soil 3 gal water. As long as there is good drainage you will be allright. If there isn't good drainage do whatever you have to do. Even if you have to hold each one at 45 degree angle till stops dripping and let set for 10 mins and repeat and repeat and repeat till drained well. Next time you will know to add some vermiculite. Important! Do not give any more nutes! This is your learning period. Everyone here will tell you that I had one heck of a time recently with my first grow. What a let down. 1 female out of 4. It sounds like you need an outlet ( a fan to pull the heat out). One blowing air in is not enough. Once the fresh air comes in it just blows around and gets hotter. You need a to get the hot air out of there. You need an exchange. Prob not a good idea to foiler feed unless you have a deficiency and you have watered and can't water anymore. Make sure well flushed and if they die you just learned an important lesson. Happens to everyone at some point. Don't get down on yourself. There is always next time. And next time you will know. The most important thing out of all this that I can tell you is study , study and then when you get done studying, study some more.
 
jdillahasdonuts said:
Thanks I appreciate the input, just wondering what is foiler feeding?
Foiler feeding is spaying the leaves. If you do foiler feed always remember that the drops of water on the leaves act like a magnifying glass burning for instance ants. The drops will burn your leaves in the same fashion. Never put back under lights with drops on leaves.
 
Thanks for that info man. It helped alot as I really didn't know that. I do have an exhaust fan blowing hot air out. I added 3 2-liters full of ice to my grow box against the intake fan and it dropped the temp from 98 to 90 degrees! what a difference! Next time I will prob grow strictly inside since switching between sun and grow box has probably added stress. I'm just unsure about keeping all those lights on all day when I'm not home. (It's also going to require a ton of ice). Besides, I'm interested to see how this technique will work out.
 
i would wait till 3- 4th week b4 nutes. and start low dosages 1/4 the strength then gradually get stronger. foiler spray is good when young. i only use organic seaweed mix. keeps leaves greeen
 
Just a quick point about lights, just now they dont need massive amounts of lights. 450w of cfl's is a lot of light, which is usually good, however they also generate a huge amount of heat, which is why you are having heat issues.
I would suggest halving the amount of light you are burning just now, until they are say 4 weeks old. This will help reduce stress, reduce heat, calm your fears about leaving lights running while you are out etc.
Depending how serious you are at growing longer term, look into getting t5ho lights for vegging and HPS for flowering. For the time being, flush as the guys have said and reduce the cfls until you see them growing again.

Green mojo on its way. Peace W
 
If you have a fertilized soil, this is compounding the problem. You want a soil with NO nutrients. With prenuted soil, you release nutrients every time you water.

What kind of exhaust fan do you have, how many cfms is it, and how big is your space? Inexpensive inline duct booster fans will not do the job. Most of us do not use intake fans.
 
I was initially going to use only an inlet hole and exhaust fan but the exhaust fan I have is a little less powerful than I thought (18 watt) so I thought that it might help to install an intake fan in order to help the exhaust fan out. I also have 2 fans on my lights to cool those off. I actually have been able to control the heat a little better lately with the ice. I read somewhere that the temps can be high as long as you inject co2 into the grow box. I was thinking of using the warm water/sugar/baker yeast/baking soda method. Does anyone have experience with this?
My other question is when I do finally reach the flowering stage should I use full-spectrum bulbs like I'm using now or should I use only white bulbs?
 
The full spectrum lights are ok for veg but don't use just plain white. Yu have to look at the spectrum of the bulb. One key to lighting for growing is the spectrum of the light emitted. If yu look at yer bulbs there should be a K value. the full spectrum has a wide variety of the wavelengths of light so it doesn't give a K value, however it tends to be in the middle of the spectrum, and is not as good as the more targeted spectrum bulbs. Some of the bulbs will have either 6500K, 5000K, 4000k, 3000k, and 2700K. And there are a few that are 10000K. The high number range is in the blue light spectrum, and the lower range goes toward the orange/red spectrum. Plants use the higher end of the spectrum (6500K is optimum) for veg growth. But for flower they like the lower end (the 2700-3000K). I have read that there are also certain blue to ultraviolet spectrum bulbs that the plant can use during flower without affecting the flower stage and actually helping flower growth. But I wouldn't try to go that far as the standard regimen of high range for veg and low range for flower produces really well. Some people strictly use HPS for flowering as it gives a lot of lumens in the orange/red (around the 3000K)spectrum but those produce a lot of heat as well. some people use strictly flourescents in the 3000K spectrum and achieve good results... The other key to use of light is the lumens produced by yer bulbs. As general practice yu should have about 5000 lumens per square foot of growing space (during flowering)to give the plants the energy they need for producing good buds. That is why most use the HPS because they produce the most lumens per watt of energy used. the next best thing is the T5HO bulbs which produce close to the same amount of lumens per watt, but yu can't get a 600watt T5HO bulb, so yu have to buy enough of them to get to the 5000lumens per square foot. The CFLs work good but come in third on the lumens per watt produced, and they produce more heat than the T5. Their advantage is their ease of use and placement. If yu are already using CFL and want to stay with that, yu should be able to find the 2700-3000K bulbs to use, at home depot, lowes, or some of the online lighting supply sites. I hope this helps rather than confusing yu.
 
jdillahasdonuts said:
I read somewhere that the temps can be high as long as you inject co2 into the grow box. I was thinking of using the warm water/sugar/baker yeast/baking soda method. Does anyone have experience with this?
My other question is when I do finally reach the flowering stage should I use full-spectrum bulbs like I'm using now or should I use only white bulbs?

That is really not true. You can have higher temps with CO2 enhancement, but this is only into the low 90s. However, in addition you also need to meet other parameters like enhanced lumens (way more and better light) and an air tight space that need to be met. However, the big thing is that CO2 needs to be controlled and regulated to be effective. Any DIY method like using warm water/sugar/baker yeast/baking soda will not work. You are far better off saving your time, money, and energy to get a proper ventilation system. You need some kind of centrifuge fan to exhaust your space--check out Vortex, Can, Eclipse, etc.

When you get to flowering, you are going to want lights in the 3000K range. However, I would recommend that if you are serious about this that you look into a HPS. They are ultimately cheaper and cooler than CFLs. You can get about the same amount of lumens from a 250W HPS as you get from 450W of CFLs. The HPS will run cooler and produce more bud.
 
Well they are looking healthy....no more burning leaves at the moment, except for a couple from previously. I wish I could get the temp down about 10 more degrees and I still need a ph meter (main thing I'm concerned about right now). Nothing I need immediately though as it's basically fresh soil. Thank you for all the replies I'll definately keep everyone posted on the progress. It's been quite a trial run but you all helped soo much
 
Fresh soil does not alleviate the need for a pH meter.
 

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