pots vs the ground
- Thread starter frankcos
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pcduck
Feed the soil, not the plant
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I do both but find it much easier to conceal if grown in soil.
I dig a big hole line the sides and contour the bottom but still leaving an open space, with plastic then fill with soil. Kinda like a funnel with a big hole in the bottom. This helps shed the water back towards the plant roots during my long dry fall.:bong:
I dig a big hole line the sides and contour the bottom but still leaving an open space, with plastic then fill with soil. Kinda like a funnel with a big hole in the bottom. This helps shed the water back towards the plant roots during my long dry fall.:bong:
Cali*Style
Aint trippin...
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I still use holes, they produce good plants. I dug mine out to be 5.5-6' in diameter, and right about 24" deep.
This year, I am going to run 6 of the holes and 6- 250 gallon smart pots.
I think, more than anything, it comes down to what "can" you get away with. I am right in the middle of California, and we are a bunch of loones around here. Everyone grows, and usually grows big. CAMP is all over the place, along with the Sheriffs and Game Wardens. Hence my small plant count and giant grow plot. I still throw half a truck load of clones out 2 weeks before solstice, but they are tiny and stay that way. An 8-10" clone 2 weeks before solstice will yield a quarter pound (depending on circumstances...), and they don't use much soil at all. I throw 'em into a 5 gallon bucket.
This year, I am going to run 6 of the holes and 6- 250 gallon smart pots.
I think, more than anything, it comes down to what "can" you get away with. I am right in the middle of California, and we are a bunch of loones around here. Everyone grows, and usually grows big. CAMP is all over the place, along with the Sheriffs and Game Wardens. Hence my small plant count and giant grow plot. I still throw half a truck load of clones out 2 weeks before solstice, but they are tiny and stay that way. An 8-10" clone 2 weeks before solstice will yield a quarter pound (depending on circumstances...), and they don't use much soil at all. I throw 'em into a 5 gallon bucket.
4u2sm0ke
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plants will do much better on the yield if planted straight in the ground..a couple years back I did a container and one in the ground..The one in ground got 12 feet tall and yielded 32 ounces..where the container got roughly 6 feet and 5 ounces..both were cones taken at the same time...Only nice thing about the containers is you can move them around for stealth purposes..Hope this helps...take care and be safe
frankcos
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4u2sm0ke said:
:holysheep:12 feet and 32 ozs, that is awesome.. Did you post a pic of that plant? I think I might remember seeing a giant plant you had outdoors a few years ago. How do you prepare your holes before you plant?
Cali*Style
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The 6' x 2' holes and 250-300 gallon smart pots will hold, what I hope to be 5 pounders. They will be going out early this year under hoop houses, in a soil mix. I am planning a march 20-25 planting date, that is what I hope to be the magic time.
It's hard for me to go out very early in the holes because for one, this is only my second year here, so I don't have a running average for weather patterns yet... Secondly, it's still flat cold here. The smart pots help with soil temps tremendously. Also with the use of the hoop houses, I will be able to skate on the chill factor a little bit. But it's still fully a concern, because in the big pots and holes, I need a good amount of time for root development.
A couple things to keep in mind though:
It takes a lot longer to finish these big plants. Good genetics (mold resistance) is key, as well as a solid plan for all of the what ifs... Like a freak rain shower. Your local growing season will play a big part too, ideally I try and keep my spring time soil temps around 65-70 deg. It's just easier to keep the soil warm as often as you can early on.
Last thing to think about, if you are not in a medical state... How are you going to hide these things? I know around this area, CAMP is out like gangbusters... And if they decide you aren't exactly legal, well everybody knows what happens next.
Super soil recipe:
20 bags black gold (1.5 cubic feet each...)
4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf each)
1 bag perlite (4cf each)
1 50 lbs bag of (steamed) bone meal
4 bags worm castings (1cf each)
1 bag old earth humus (1cf each)
10 lbs gypsum
10 lbs dolomite lime
5 lbs powdered molasses
This will make roughly 50 cubic feet of soil, or enough for a 300 gallon smart pot. The soil needs to sit 3 weeks MINIMUM before planting. One thing to consider... The smart pots will drain really well, the holes how ever not so much. I add 6" of ph neutral glass sand to the bottom of the holes, it will help with drainage and doesn't contain any trace elements or minerals that will fry your plants. You will need to keep an eye on water levels for sure. These large smart pots will take up to 30 gallons of water per cycle to maintain adequate soil saturation, and possibly more if you live in a high heat area.
This soil is recommended for OUTDOOR use only, It really smells awful. Okay, with a good water supply... You shouldn't add any nutes until they start to bud, at that point start adding nutes while trying to max out around week 4. They should get 2-3 good full strength fertilizations before you start to flush.
Cheap and easy smart pots: (Material list will be per pot)
4 x 8' "t" posts
1 roll of 64" x 100' field fencing (Will make 12 pots)
1 roll of 48" x 100' heavy grade landscaping cloth. ( will make 12 pots)
Okay, measure out your growing area. Keeping in mind where any shadows or other obstructions are. I stick a nail in the center with a string attached to it, measure out 3' of string and walk in a circle with a spray can. Next you are ready for posts, I use 4 per pot spaced evenly and driven in until they are 4' tall. Next, you are going to cut a 20' long section of field fence. I use landscape staples to flatten it out on the ground. Next you are going to cut the entire length in half. Now that you have a section of fencing that is 24" x 20' long, we are ready to make the frame for the pot.
I start at any one of the 4 "t" posts and secure one end of the fence. Then I line the 4 "t" posts on the inside with the remaining fence, you will have an overlap... That is fine, it helps make the frame stronger. Next, I fold the top 6" of fence down over itself creating a 6" cuff around the top of the frame, this will do wonders in helping fight the weight of the soil and keep your smart pot round.
Next you'll need to roll out 20' of cloth and cut it off. Then fold it in half and cut it long ways. Now you are ready to line your smart pot. I start at the top container and align the cloth and wire, I secure the cloth with standard zip ties. I work my way around the entire top of the pot, making sure that the cloth is aligned well. Once this is done, work your way down the walls of the pot, attaching the cloth in what ever pattern work for you. You will have roughly 6" of lose cloth on the bottom, I fold it so it faces the center of the smart pot. You are now ready to fill with soil, and plant. (Keep in mind that soil recipe above takes a minimum of 3 weeks to cool off...)
Genetics:
I am playing with a few different genetics, this time around. Focusing heavily on haze heavy strains. I will fill 12 planters with the very best plants from a starting line of 30. I have 10 each, chocolope - Thai haze x Skunk - G13 x haze. All those strains are up for this task. Now, for the crummy part... Starting from seed, there is no way to know what will be male or female. Well, I am starting all 30 seeds indoors in 3-5 gallons buckets. I will keep a close eye on them, writing down favorable traits between the different plants. Once they are big enough to take a clone from, they will all get cloned once. The clones will be paired to their parent, rooted and sexed. Once I have a male / female count, I can focus on which plants will be used in the planters and possibly keep a good male or 2 for pollen.
This is getting rather long, so I will let it go for now. But feel free to IM me or what ever if you have any questions.
Best of luck and lots a Mojo!! Cali :fly:
It's hard for me to go out very early in the holes because for one, this is only my second year here, so I don't have a running average for weather patterns yet... Secondly, it's still flat cold here. The smart pots help with soil temps tremendously. Also with the use of the hoop houses, I will be able to skate on the chill factor a little bit. But it's still fully a concern, because in the big pots and holes, I need a good amount of time for root development.
A couple things to keep in mind though:
It takes a lot longer to finish these big plants. Good genetics (mold resistance) is key, as well as a solid plan for all of the what ifs... Like a freak rain shower. Your local growing season will play a big part too, ideally I try and keep my spring time soil temps around 65-70 deg. It's just easier to keep the soil warm as often as you can early on.
Last thing to think about, if you are not in a medical state... How are you going to hide these things? I know around this area, CAMP is out like gangbusters... And if they decide you aren't exactly legal, well everybody knows what happens next.
Super soil recipe:
20 bags black gold (1.5 cubic feet each...)
4 bags stutzman farms chicken manure (1 cf each)
1 bag perlite (4cf each)
1 50 lbs bag of (steamed) bone meal
4 bags worm castings (1cf each)
1 bag old earth humus (1cf each)
10 lbs gypsum
10 lbs dolomite lime
5 lbs powdered molasses
This will make roughly 50 cubic feet of soil, or enough for a 300 gallon smart pot. The soil needs to sit 3 weeks MINIMUM before planting. One thing to consider... The smart pots will drain really well, the holes how ever not so much. I add 6" of ph neutral glass sand to the bottom of the holes, it will help with drainage and doesn't contain any trace elements or minerals that will fry your plants. You will need to keep an eye on water levels for sure. These large smart pots will take up to 30 gallons of water per cycle to maintain adequate soil saturation, and possibly more if you live in a high heat area.
This soil is recommended for OUTDOOR use only, It really smells awful. Okay, with a good water supply... You shouldn't add any nutes until they start to bud, at that point start adding nutes while trying to max out around week 4. They should get 2-3 good full strength fertilizations before you start to flush.
Cheap and easy smart pots: (Material list will be per pot)
4 x 8' "t" posts
1 roll of 64" x 100' field fencing (Will make 12 pots)
1 roll of 48" x 100' heavy grade landscaping cloth. ( will make 12 pots)
Okay, measure out your growing area. Keeping in mind where any shadows or other obstructions are. I stick a nail in the center with a string attached to it, measure out 3' of string and walk in a circle with a spray can. Next you are ready for posts, I use 4 per pot spaced evenly and driven in until they are 4' tall. Next, you are going to cut a 20' long section of field fence. I use landscape staples to flatten it out on the ground. Next you are going to cut the entire length in half. Now that you have a section of fencing that is 24" x 20' long, we are ready to make the frame for the pot.
I start at any one of the 4 "t" posts and secure one end of the fence. Then I line the 4 "t" posts on the inside with the remaining fence, you will have an overlap... That is fine, it helps make the frame stronger. Next, I fold the top 6" of fence down over itself creating a 6" cuff around the top of the frame, this will do wonders in helping fight the weight of the soil and keep your smart pot round.
Next you'll need to roll out 20' of cloth and cut it off. Then fold it in half and cut it long ways. Now you are ready to line your smart pot. I start at the top container and align the cloth and wire, I secure the cloth with standard zip ties. I work my way around the entire top of the pot, making sure that the cloth is aligned well. Once this is done, work your way down the walls of the pot, attaching the cloth in what ever pattern work for you. You will have roughly 6" of lose cloth on the bottom, I fold it so it faces the center of the smart pot. You are now ready to fill with soil, and plant. (Keep in mind that soil recipe above takes a minimum of 3 weeks to cool off...)
Genetics:
I am playing with a few different genetics, this time around. Focusing heavily on haze heavy strains. I will fill 12 planters with the very best plants from a starting line of 30. I have 10 each, chocolope - Thai haze x Skunk - G13 x haze. All those strains are up for this task. Now, for the crummy part... Starting from seed, there is no way to know what will be male or female. Well, I am starting all 30 seeds indoors in 3-5 gallons buckets. I will keep a close eye on them, writing down favorable traits between the different plants. Once they are big enough to take a clone from, they will all get cloned once. The clones will be paired to their parent, rooted and sexed. Once I have a male / female count, I can focus on which plants will be used in the planters and possibly keep a good male or 2 for pollen.
This is getting rather long, so I will let it go for now. But feel free to IM me or what ever if you have any questions.
Best of luck and lots a Mojo!! Cali :fly:
Holes definitely work better and one of the problems I have had with pots is that animals like raccoons will overturn them looking for grubs underneath. In my area blood and bone meal is a no-no because bears, raccoons, coyotes will dig out plants looking for the source of the blood and bone, same thing with fish based nutes.
