Soil questions

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I have a question to my fine distinguished friends.
Into organics and am aware of microbes ,fungi and innoculants .
I am now using EM1.
All I read about is diversity in microbes and wondered has anyone ever used lake water?
I would assume it may be a fishpoop fert not as strong as fishpoop but enough to get you sick with 300 geese ducks fish turtles crappin in it.
 
Never tried it. I would be concerned about what all runs off into the lake.
Thats a good point .
Artist lake in Middle Island is surrounded by houses with lawns with cesspools and big ass lawns and runoff from all the above.
 
I have a question to my fine distinguished friends.
Into organics and am aware of microbes ,fungi and innoculants .
I am now using EM1.
All I read about is diversity in microbes and wondered has anyone ever used lake water?
I would assume it may be a fishpoop fert not as strong as fishpoop but enough to get you sick with 300 geese ducks fish turtles crappin in it.
I tried my Koi pond once
The water was full of nitrates from their seht , plants were very Green but would not bud well I went back to tap water that had been bubbled 24hrs
 
I tried my Koi pond once
The water was full of nitrates from their seht , plants were very Green but would not bud well I went back to tap water that had been bubbled 24hrs
Your instance would be the best because of no run off issues or ferts or making no difference being to close to your septic
 
I have a question to my fine distinguished friends.
Into organics and am aware of microbes ,fungi and innoculants .
I am now using EM1.
All I read about is diversity in microbes and wondered has anyone ever used lake water?
I would assume it may be a fishpoop fert not as strong as fishpoop but enough to get you sick with 300 geese ducks fish turtles crappin in it.



good question

looks like there are pros and cons




Due to the rich nutrient profile of pond water, it can serve as organic fertilizer for plants. Plant fertilizer will typically contain nitrogen and phosphorus, which are vital for proper plant growth. As pond water has relatively high concentrations of these elements, it is often called “fertile water”. It provides the double benefit of providing both the necessary moisture and vital nourishment for plant growth. Pond water can significantly enrich soil, not only in individual pots and ornamental gardens, but even in farms that generate a large crop yield.

Historically, both natural and manmade ponds were fundamentally important sources of water for both domestic and agricultural use. Today, pond water continues to be treasured and has even been shown to be effective as irrigation water in paddies. Pond water, when “clean”, can increase plant productivity and is considered a friendly and economical alternative to fertilizer. In some remarkably exceptional cases, however, it can be detrimental to plants by introducing toxic conditions or pathogens.


When Might Pond Water Be Harmful to Plants?

Although pond water is normally beneficial, there are considerations to keep in mind. These are either associated with foreign elements to which your pond may be exposed, possibly without your knowledge, or uncontrolled nutrient build-up as a result of improper filtration and aeration.

Sometimes, pond water parameters, particularly pH levels, may also be incompatible with some plants. It may be best to steer away from watering plants with pond water if you suspect that it contains the following:

1) Overabundance of nutrients

Foliage in a pond

Be sure to regularly remove any decaying foliage from your pond, as their presence can drastically increase the amount of nutrients in the water. Tomwsulcer, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Toxic levels of ammonia and nitrites, along with flare-ups of specific macro and micronutrients, may harm your plants. These tend to occur as a result of improper pond maintenance, and should not be a cause for concern if your pond system is healthy. Drastic increases in nutrients may also be a result of overstocking your pond with fish or forgetting to remove decaying foliage. Simply be conservative when stocking your pond – remember that its carrying capacity is limited by its volume – and regularly observe your fish communities for irregular behavior.

Rainwater or excess water that drains into your pond from the surrounding environment can also be a source of nutrients, particularly if it runs over-fertilized soil. If your pond acts as a drain for your garden, it may be wise to test for nutrient concentrations, not only to ensure that the water can be used for plants, but also to prevent any fish fatalities!


2) Presence of pathogenic microbes

Geopelia placida perched on a branch

Bacteria from bird droppings may proliferate in pond water and harm your plants. JJ Harrison (https://www.jjharrison.com.au/), CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Unfortunately, it is not always possible to control which microbes enter our ponds. Without our knowledge, there are many vectors that can introduce these. For example, bacteria from bird droppings or wild animals that previously visited toxic environments can carry fungal infections, destructive parasites, or viral loads that may proliferate in water and harm your plants. Poor aeration can also induce the growth of harmful nonaerobic bacteria.

The presence of these microbes may be indicated by poor fish and aquatic plant health, especially when all other parameters are maintained. If you suspect that your pond contains pathogenic microbes, it may be best to use another freshwater source for your plants. You may need to utilize more biosecurity methods to prevent the entry of these harmful pathogens, and make sure that you purchase your fish and pond plants from reputable shops.


3) Greywater

Greywater in a bottle

Greywater can potentially contain harmful substances. SuSanA Secretariat, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Greywater refers to runoff or wastewater that could potentially contain harmful substances. A pond that collects wastewater can simply be the result of medieval plumbing from a nearby residence or something as serious as improper effluent disposal from factories. These will typically be quite diluted in case they do drain into your pond. To evaluate whether or not your pond is exposed to greywater, look into the history of your property, the surrounding establishments, and the stability of nearby sewage tanks and pipelines.


https://pondinformer.com/watering-plants-with-pond-water/
 
I would say if my pond had less fish it would have worked very well for Veg and early flower.
I had a friend on another site do a hydro fishpond grow , had two connected ponds , one with fish and the other without.
Plants were floated in the water pond while the nutrient rich water from the other was cycled through both ponds.
@joeb631a
 
I have a question to my fine distinguished friends.
Into organics and am aware of microbes ,fungi and innoculants .
I am now using EM1.
All I read about is diversity in microbes and wondered has anyone ever used lake water?
I would assume it may be a fishpoop fert not as strong as fishpoop but enough to get you sick with 300 geese ducks fish turtles crappin in it.
You could get the water tested. I think a local cooperative extension or the DEP may be a good place to contact with questions. The test would only be a ‘snapshot’ though and the water quality could vary by time of year, precipitation or many other factors. Personally, I would use it to water my lawn or ornamental plantings and stick to tap water or RO if you have it.
 
I’ve used the ocean before with great results. I tried the strawberry soil on my first auto grow as a suggestion from Cartys auto grow page. I really liked the soil mainly because it carried my grow with no nutes for a while and the fact I had no soil gnats during the grow which was a first for me. I’ve used it twice since with my recent photo tents and have had no gnats. i hate those bastards
I love O.F. and have used it raw for many grows but it's expensive and if your growing a field of vegges and cana you need to make your own soil. I am using 2 bags O.F. with compost and perlite. The compost is free and I can get as much a s needed. Just test the compost p.h. level and add grounded dolomite lime if needed. You can add normal soil to the mix too. Making your own super soil I think is best for soil mediums.
 
I mix Kellog's Organic Potting soil with Peat Moss and Perlite.

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