The Airlift Micro-Organism Tea Brewing Bio-reactor Vortex System

Discussion in 'DIY Forum / Technical Articles' started by Serch, Feb 12, 2019.

  1. Feb 12, 2019 #1

    Serch

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    This year I've decided to get my feet and the garden roots wet with those yummy Compost Teas and variations of Worm Casting Teas, etc etc...but I'll require more than 10 gallons....so the Winter has my brain churning again...
    Compost tea is one of the best things you can feed your plants and soil (YES FEED YOUR SOIL). It's alive with microbial life.. Last year I had to use two 5 gallon buckets almost constantly to feed my veggies and plants...and I still needed more. Not to mention the constant mess.

    The Airlift Micro-Organism Tea Brewing Bio-reactor Vortex System
    Crazy name for what I'm doing....I love it, so stick around and watch the build.
    Yes folks this sure isn't your 5 gallon tea bubbler; yet it still can be....
    Try looking up a price on these creations. Then the idea came...I could build this D.I.Y. style, this is something I like trying time and time again; especially in the garden. I think the only thing I won't try D.I.Y. is the electronics.

    Well the story goes like this....Based on airlift systems, plus the NorCal Vortex along with the Vortex Brewer. All systems available at Youtube University. I figured I could build this unit after reading and putting together a parts list to create my own Airlift MicroOrganism Organic Tea Brewing Bioreactor Vortex System.

    Can you say D.I.Y. project....indeed !!! :p:D
     

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  2. Feb 12, 2019 #2

    umbra

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    microbeorganics.com
     
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  3. Feb 12, 2019 #3

    Serch

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    ...so imaging the joy I felt when the 35 Gallon tank and stand were waiting on me when I got home one day
    Like I said; I needed more than 10 gallons at a time. Paying 3 grand was out of the question.....so, Hello Amazon...
    Yes 2 day shipping please
     

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  4. Feb 12, 2019 #4

    owentheostrich

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  5. Feb 12, 2019 #5

    Serch

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    Now there's something that's been spot on for years :D Thanks Umbra
     
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  6. Feb 12, 2019 #6

    Serch

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    subbed ?? ...::do tell
     
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  7. Feb 12, 2019 #7

    umbra

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    subscribed to your thread
     
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  8. Feb 12, 2019 #8

    Dogweed

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    Im pulling up a chair.
     
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  9. Feb 12, 2019 #9

    Serch

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    Take it from the top.... top1.jpg top4.jpg Use the correct size bit or you'll be fitting the 2inch bulkhead differently. I used a 3 1/8 circle bit for the top hole. Once the proper size hole is drilled. Insert and connect your bulkhead securely. I tried to purchase a rubber grommet but finally ended up purchasing a rubber sheet to create a gasket. I'm not a plumber so I still get the slightest ooze of bubbles if the tank is full at the bulkhead. Insert your PVC into the bulkhead. Just so you expert builders know; yes I did use PVC gunky softener and glue and I DO NOT claim to be any type of trained craftsman.
     

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  10. Feb 12, 2019 #10

    Serch

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    Once the top is complete with the outer side of the bulkhead we have to go inside of the tank....
    I changed most of the inner side to the bulkhead assembly (the pics will show you why)
    It was well put together and tested to only find out I could've fitted the inside of the bulkhead with a 90* elbow with threads instead of a fitting + added coupler + 90* elbow. This was an extra 6 inches extending downward and then 90* angle....(this was later changed to a simple 90*elbow)
     

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  11. Feb 12, 2019 #11

    owentheostrich

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    Subscribed to thread so I get updates m8
     
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  12. Feb 12, 2019 #12

    STIGGY

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    Nice Job
    Can I ask what you paid for te inductor Tank and stand?
    And where is the airpump line coming in?

    Is the tank 30 gals or 35gals?
    Thank You
     
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  13. Feb 12, 2019 #13

    STIGGY

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    Looks like you can Brew N Weed grow using this unit LOL
     
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  14. Feb 12, 2019 #14

    Serch

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    Then comes the outside top section, we'll call it the tank return assembly (whoaaa patent coming)
    Needs at this point made me think from experience. again,....I'm not a plumber, welder or any type of builder but I'll try, knowing being off in measurement by a touch will throw you off a mile, I had to think of a way for the section to be slightly giving. So I say that to show; if the section area was built with solid PVC and that being rigid, all of the connections probably would be screwed...:(
    So...struggling thru connecting PVC to a newbie..:confused:
    2x more 90* elbows
    2x more couplers cut (to fit into the rubber couplers)
    2x rubber couplers

    Imagine this guy in Home Depot with a list of needed connectors and PVC glue. Trying to piece it together on the floor and customers are walking by saying "Big job coming up huh ?" :rolleyes: not at all, BUT...if you only knew.

    So I get the section assembled and clamped on. You know that first time you harvested and felt proud. Proud is the word....because this section is going to be the re-entry of the airlifted water AND it may not seem like it, but progress is therapy.....puff puff pass...
     

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  15. Feb 12, 2019 #15

    Serch

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    Forgive me, I was a little high...
     
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  16. Feb 12, 2019 #16

    Serch

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    Thank you Stiggy....
    Inductor 30 gallon tank...$99 from Ace Roto Mold
    Inductor stand was approx. $70 or $75
    It's a 30 gallon unit that I usually add almost 5 more gallons to top off when I'm prepared to use the teas. When I top it off here comes the oozing bubbles and edge of overflow. Also the elbow inside of the unit is underwater then causing massive bubbling even with the water in circulation....but it works;)
     
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  17. Feb 12, 2019 #17

    STIGGY

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    So the tank creates it own bubbler
     
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  18. Feb 12, 2019 #18

    STIGGY

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    Do you ave an external pump circulating the tea
     
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  19. Feb 12, 2019 #19

    Serch

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    At the bottom of the tank, it has huge threads. I'll use a 90 degree turn, which is created with 2 rubber couplers and a 2 inch 90 degree elbow. A hose clamp was used to attach the rubber coupler to the tank (along with a lot of pipe tape around the tank's threads to fill gaps along with a small amount of PVC Cement). Another 3 inch section of 2 inch pvc for a coupler and you now have the bottom of the tank's 90 degree angle towards the return and dispensing section.
     

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  20. Feb 12, 2019 #20

    Serch

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    I then attached the T section and I also added a 6 inch section of PVC tubing extending towards the air induction and return assembly. (That patent is gonna be chunky) Then I used a bulky 2 inch valve for the dispensing area. (to be rebuilt at a later time)
    A Banjo styled valve with a strainer could've been used or just tap into the tank with a spicket. (You may build it how you like) This unit is using a reduction from the 2 inch size tubing. I know this sounds a little confusion but I am confused about why I didn't just spend the $$$...ohhh yeahh D.I.Y.
     

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