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The Secrets of Foliar Feeding

Discussion in 'Sick Plants & Problems' started by ozzydiodude, Aug 25, 2012.

  1. Aug 25, 2012 #1

    ozzydiodude

    ozzydiodude

    ozzydiodude

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    The Secrets of Foliar Spraying

    The Secrets of Foliar Spraying
    by Roland Evans

    Your tomato plants look limp and sickly. Their lower leaves have turned a nasty yellow between the veins. You need to do something quickly. Searching the web, you discover your tomatoes have magnesium deficiency. Under the bathroom sink you find an old bag of Epsom salts and an empty spray bottle. Dissolving a tablespoon of the salts in a couple of pints of warm water, you spray the leaves of the tomato plants all over. A couple of days later the plants are bright green and healthy again.

    From this example it looks like foliar spraying could be the magic bullet we are all looking for. Within one hour, according to scientists, a plant can transport minerals from its leaves all the way down to its roots. Compared to root feeding, this looks like the fast track. However, foliar spraying is not an alternative to good growing methods. It is best seen as a powerful addition that has its own secrets for success.

    Mineral Deficiency Spraying
    Spraying for mineral deficiencies can be particularly effective: magnesium for tomatoes, zinc for grapes, boron for many vegetables; the list is long and complex. Plants signal their need for help by exhibiting distress in leaf, bud, and flower. As the plant's "primary care person" your task is to diagnose the problem and provide corrective procedures. Mineral spraying acts rather like an injection; it gets the medicine into the plant's system as quickly and efficiently as possible.

    The main stumbling block is our limited diagnostic skills. Each species of plant has both general and specific mineral needs. When these minerals are missing from the soil or hydroponic solution a range of confusing symptoms appear. We may not discover the specific reason quickly enough to prevent plant collapse. Even when we do, that plant will take time to recover and might never reach optimum productivity.

    Spraying for mineral deficiencies is emergency medicine — fast and efficient. To be successful we need to know which element is missing and have the cure ready to hand. This is not always possible, so, in general, it is better to think in terms of prevention rather than cure. We do not wait until we're sick to take vitamins (a contraction of "vital minerals"). So, rather than spraying when a deficiency appears, put in place a program of foliar fertilization to increase plant health and resilience. If deficiency spraying is specific first aid, foliar fertilization is preventive health care.

    Foliar Fertilization
    We all have had the basic course in fertilization: plants need NPK — nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. This is like saying humans need carbohydrates, fats, and protein. It tells us the basics but certainly does not say how to eat well. We need a balanced diet with nourishing foods, and plants are similar. They prefer nutrients in which the complex chemicals are bound organically. Rather than a dose of chemical nitrates, plants thrive best on organic products that provide not only the NPK but also a range of trace elements.

    Vegetation evolved in the oceans, bathed in a solution containing every imaginable mineral. Seaweed takes food directly from seawater. Land plants, like their marine ancestors, can take in nourishment through the pores or stomata on their leaf surfaces. Stomata are tiny mouths that breathe in CO2 and exhale water and oxygen. They also transport nutrients up to ten times more efficiently than root systems. Foliar feeding bolsters the nutrients available to each plant, like a regular dose of vitamins and supplements.

    Most vegetation requires a minimum of 16, but probably more like 50, essential minerals and trace elements. Is it just coincidence that some of the best providers of these elements come from the ocean? Fish products are high in organic nitrogen; kelp is a wonderful source of minerals, particularly potassium, and algae have a range of trace elements and hormones beneficial for cellular development. Research suggests that natural sea salt contains a vast range of trace elements. When sprayed in a very diluted form, sea minerals provide most elements needed to prevent deficiencies.

    Foliar fertilization is fast becoming an essential addition to standard cultivation techniques. For many growers who have grown up with chemicals it is a small step to organic fertilization; the NPK is just packaged differently. However, there is another, less well-known aspect to plant cultivation based on biology rather than chemistry — the realm of the microbes.

    Spraying with Compost Tea
    When plants evolved on land they formed an alliance with the microbial life in the soil and air. Certain species of bacteria and fungi became the chefs that prepared the plant's food, the medics that helped them fight disease. Plants like to dine on biologically predigested nutrients; it is easier for them to assimilate. Healthy plants have a strong immune system that includes a "bio-film" of microbial life on the roots, stems, and leaves. To make use of these biological principles to feed and protect our plants, we can spray with compost tea.

    Compost tea is "brewed" by aerating a mixture of water, compost (sometimes humus or worm castings), and organic nutrients such as molasses, kelp, fish emulsion, and yucca. This produces a nutrient-rich solution containing vast colonies of beneficial bacteria and fungi. The microbes digest the nutrients into organic compounds that can be easily taken in by the plant. These same microbes colonize the surface of the leaves to help fight off disease.

    When you spray with compost tea you envelop the plant with living organisms and you enhance the web of life of which the plant is a part. The results can be astounding: large, mineral-rich vegetation with clear glossy leaves, decreased disease, and even reduced insect attacks. Plants treated with foliar fertilization, and especially compost tea, has higher "Brix" levels — a measure of the carbohydrates and mineral density in the sap. High Brix is said to make the plants less attractive to pests and more resilient to stress. If they are vegetables, they even taste better!

    Compost tea, unlike mineral sprays and foliar fertilization, cannot be over-applied and does not burn leaves. The microbe-rich droplets drip off the leaves to improve soil and growing solutions. Those same microbes can clean up toxic chemicals and turn them into nutrients. The main drawback is that brewed compost tea is not always available and, being alive, has a limited shelf life. If you brew your own compost tea, it needs to have the best ingredients and proven test results.

    Whether you apply a mineral solution to deficient plants, have a regular foliar fertilization program, or go the distance with compost tea, foliar spraying benefits your plant quickly and profoundly. Find that old spray bottle, hook up your hose-end sprayer, and invest in a commercial spray pack. Once you see the results, you will never neglect this method of plant care again.

    Tips on Spraying
    Here are guidelines for foliar spraying:

    * When mixing up your formulation, whether mineral, organic fertilization, or compost tea, use non-chlorinated, well-oxygenated water. Bubble air through chlorinated water or leave it to off-gas overnight. You can try using seltzer in your foliar spray to give plants an added CO2 boost.
    * Make sure mineral ingredients are dissolved and the solution is very dilute. Chemicals in high concentration tend to "burn" foliage and leave a salt residue. Compost teas need to be diluted 10 to 1.
    * Add a natural surfactant or wetting agent to help the solution flow over and stick to foliage. Yucca is a natural surfactant and is often a component of compost teas. Use true organic soaps such as Dr. Bronner's, Tom's, or Pangea. The great majority of other soaps contain detergents that do not break down easily.
    * Young transplants prefer a more alkaline solution (pH 7.0) while older growth prefers a somewhat more acid spray (pH 6.2). Use baking soda to the raise pH of your spray and apple cider vinegar to lower it.
    * Spray with a fine sprayer for foliar fertilization and with a coarser, low-pressure sprayer for compost tea. The microbes in compost tea need large protective water droplets. Apply in the early morning or evening when the stomata are open. Do not spray if the temperature is over 80ºF (~27ºC) or in the bright sun. Harsh ultraviolet rays can kill microbes in compost tea.
    * Cover at least 70 percent of the foliage, paying particular attention to the undersurfaces of the leaves.
    * Apply foliar fertilization or sprayed compost tea every two to three weeks during the growing season.

    Compassionate Farmer
     
  2. Aug 25, 2012 #2

    4u2sm0ke

    4u2sm0ke

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    :stoned:

    TMT

    :bong:
     
  3. Aug 25, 2012 #3

    orangesunshine

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    :icon_smile:
     
  4. Aug 27, 2012 #4

    Hushpuppy

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    Good read Ozzy, do you foliar feed? I have done it with cuttings and found it worked well when done right. :) I thought about doing it with my organic plants but wasn't sure. I wonder if it would help to spray my hydro plants that are in veg with some of my compost tea?
     
  5. Aug 27, 2012 #5

    ozzydiodude

    ozzydiodude

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    I usually use foliar feeding for fixing nutes problems, but I have been reading up and some people say using organic foliar sprays help to fight off bugs and diseases. By using the organic teas in a foliar spray you are not only giving the soil a microbe boost, you are also surrounding the plant with microbes as well and this is what helps to keep bugs and molds away as well.
     
  6. Aug 27, 2012 #6

    orangesunshine

    orangesunshine

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    i just mixed a foliar spray of water, molasses for sulphur, apple cider vinegar, sm90, to fight the powdery mildew---also considering watering in pineapple juice, lemon, or lime juice to adjust the ph in effort to battle the PM
     
  7. Aug 28, 2012 #7

    juniorgrower

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    What do you use for a sprayer when foliar feeding a compost tea? I think I remember reading that the sprayer nozzle has to have certain size holes to allow the microbes to be sprayed out. I could be way off base though, my memory isn't all that great!
     
  8. Aug 28, 2012 #8

    ozzydiodude

    ozzydiodude

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    I use a regular pump up garden sprayer, like the ones you see at the dollar stores for 2 or 3 dollars
     
  9. Aug 28, 2012 #9

    tastyness

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    I've always been a fan of misting, spraying my plants. I know many may disagree.
    I've used organic tea on my clones this run and they are doing really really well.
    I hate having to stop when they get to flowering- seems that's when they could use it the most.
     
  10. Jul 29, 2013 #10

    shahomy

    shahomy

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    Is it because of bud rot and powdery mildew you stop at this point?
     
  11. Sep 9, 2013 #11

    ozzydiodude

    ozzydiodude

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    not only bud rot and PM but the nutes the plants need are not absorbed as well. the nute dry up and are left behind giving the plant a harsh taste and causing it will cause the pistols it wither early.
     
  12. Aug 9, 2014 #12

    vostok

    vostok

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    Foilar Spraying ...1/2 teaspoon of kelp to a pint hand sprayer and fill with warm water, shake well, spray 2-3 times per day is a great alternative than nute in your roots, no chance of nute burn either
     
  13. Aug 20, 2014 #13

    ncmga

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    Greetings

    Ozzy u kool man ,
    I like foliar feeding and am doing a veganic regimen, though proprietary, here are some advanced methods:
    Mother Earth Minerals Angstrom minerals
    Patrick Flannigans Crystal Energy Concentrate
    Algoflash Geranium
    Nitron A-35
    Sea water- Concentrace
    Wachters Sea Mins Laminaria
    Lipton tea bags(hot brew)
    Stevia tea or extract(black)

    These are some I works with all FOOD GRADE except the Nitron -A35.

    Peace
    Atomic Dog
     
  14. Mar 9, 2015 #14

    sopappy

    sopappy

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    I'd like to make a batch of the compost TEA described here. I'd only need perhaps a litre or quart at a time.... does anyone have recipe with quantities they'd care to share?
    I'm using coco/perlite medium and have a about a dozen seedlings I'm moving in to 2 gallon hempy pots.
     
  15. Mar 11, 2015 #15

    ncmga

    ncmga

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    Greetings soap,

    I talked to hushpuppy about Espoma Plant Tone, I brew with a coffee maker and add specialty after. Though molasses is preferred, I decided to do stevia extract that has little fermentation but more direct input to plant. U could possibly use fulvic to enhance effects and possibly kp/sea weed to buffer. Short season crops imo don't need too much complexity just well adjusted basics...minerals,enzymes, trace element, essential oils require adjustment in ammendments.

    Peace
    Atomic Dog
     
  16. Mar 11, 2015 #16

    ncmga

    ncmga

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    Atomic Dog

    _20150122_011953.jpg
     
  17. Mar 11, 2015 #17

    ncmga

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    The one on the left is 8 yr Peru sea bird guano, on right is fresh brew psg. The 8 yr is more p-k while the fresh has more n.
     

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