We really need a Breeding and propagation section

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Maybe my 'definition' of a "Breeder" or breeding, is overly judgemental. But I am NOT "dissing" anyone when I say "seedmaker". I don't mean it in any disrespectfull manner. I consider myself a 'hobbiest' seedmaker. By no stretch of the definition would I consider myself a "Breeder", by my definition.
 
Hick said:
TOTALLY segregate the "chosen" male. If you plan to flower him only once, you can simply set him on a mirror, sheet of glass, or any clean flat surface and let him do his stuff. The pollen will drop onto the glass and is easily scraped up and collected with a razor blade.
It should be dry and have all of the plant material(flower petals,ect) removed before it goes into an "air tight" container with a descicant pack or a few grains of rice to absorb any moisture.
It can then be stored for long term use. Either in the freezer or in the 'crisper' drawer of the fridge for shorter term. Freezing it keeps it viable for a longer period of time, but can only be thawed once, in my experience. If you want to use it multiple times, make individual packages to freeze it in.

Once you have chosen the female you wish to pollinate, defrost the pollen to room temp and apply it to any individual branch or bud with a small artist type paint brush or Q-tip swabb.. Leave the circulation fan off during pollination. Any residual pollen can be spread by the fan.
How far into flowering should the female plant be before you brush on the pollen?
 
I like to dust them early, soon after pistils start to form buds. That provides ample time for the seeds to ripen well, and allows for a 'some' seedless bud formation after the pollination.
It takes a minimum of 4 weeks for seeds to form and mature.
 
i do mine at appr. 2 weeks into flower then again at 2in a half weeks to make sure i have pollenated but then again thats just me .
 
how do the know what seeds will be female and which will be male? i picked up this booklet form a shop in amsterdam that sold seeds of many great strains and they say that the seeds are all female, how does this work?
 
it's botany

look up gibberellic acid

but why mess with mother nature?
she never likes that!
you shoulda just picked up some seeds
and left the pamplets.
 
There are other methods of feminizing seeds than the use of gibbeleric Acid. but I agree why put chemicals like that on herb. Also when that chemical is used, it makes the bud unsmokable. So you basically going for fem'd seeds with unsmokable bud. But it is not as easy as it sounds.
 
"But it is not as easy as it sounds."
and also it's not nessacary.
it takes too much time to do it.

and there are hazards.
that's why I do not suggest breeding for the average grower.

just get a hold of some really good seeds, probabaly from holland, and grow them and then choose a few for mother plants and clone away!

when you just breed willy-nilly all you ened up with is 20 percent good,
80 percent SWHAAG

steve kubby has a way to adjust the lighting to produce more female plants.
from seeds it's in his video, which I have yet to see.
 
18.3 Producing Female Seeds http://www.dutch-ganja.com/sexual-variants-in-cannabis.html

If it were possible to know which seeds are female and which are male, marijuana growing would be even simpler than it is. There is not practical way to discern the gender of a seed - but there is a simpler procedure for producing seeds that will all grow into female plants.

To produce feminized seeds, the plants are fertilised with pollen with male flowers that appear on a basically female plant. Such flowers appear on intersexes, reversed females, and hermaphrodites (see section 17). Female plants have an XX complement of sex chromosomes; therefore, the pollen from the male flowers that form on female plants can only carry an X chromosome. All seeds produced from flowers fertilised with this "female" pollen will thus have an XX pair of sex chromosomes, which is the female genotype.

Although the male Cannabis plant can produce female flowers, it cannot produce seed; so there is no chance of mistakenly producing seed on a male plant. It is possible to use pollen from an intersexual plant that is basically male (XY); the resulting crop of seeds will have the normal 1:1 ratio of males to females. For this reason, choose a plant that is distinctly female as a pollen source. A female plant with a few random male-flower clusters, or a female plant that has reversed sex are both good pollen sources. The seed bearer can be any female, female intersex, or reversed-female plant.

In most crops, careful inspection of all the females usually reveals a few male flowers. And often, when females are left flowering for an extended period of time, some male flowers will develop. If no male flowers form, you can help to induce male flowers on female plants by severe pruning. One such procedure is to take the bulk of the harvest, but to leave behind some green leaves to maintain growth (as described in the section on "Double Harvests" in section 20). Most of the plants will continue to form female flowers, but male flowers are also likely to form. At times, the plants may not grow particularly well, and may in fact form distorted and twisted leaves, but they will produce viable seeds as long as some stigmas were white when pollinated. (Remember, it only takes a few fertile buds to produce hundreds of seeds.) Pollinate the female flowers by hand as soon as pollen becomes available.
{Figure 82. A solitary male flower on a female plant provides "female" pollen. (Also see Figure 84 for a female reversing sex.)} {Figure 83. Growth may not be vigorous, but seeds will form if stigmas are white when pollinated.}

Under artificial lights, turn the light cycle down to eight hours after cutting the plants back. The short cycle helps to induce male flowers on female plants.

Male-free seed can also be produced by pollen from a natural hermaphrodites. The progeny, however, may inherit the hermaphroditic trait, resulting in a crop with some hermaphrodites as well as females. This could be a problem if you want to grow sinsemilla the next crop.
 
sounds like alot of work, I think I'll stick to my bonafide seeds and clones
 
seattle420 said:
"But it is not as easy as it sounds."
and also it's not nessacary.
it takes too much time to do it.

and there are hazards.
that's why I do not suggest breeding for the average grower.

just get a hold of some really good seeds, probabaly from holland, and grow them and then choose a few for mother plants and clone away!

when you just breed willy-nilly all you ened up with is 20 percent good,
80 percent SWHAAG

steve kubby has a way to adjust the lighting to produce more female plants.
from seeds it's in his video, which I have yet to see.

I actually agree. :eek:
but...if you willing and able to to spend the years it takes to "create" your own. (without hacking others work) then go for it. but read, study, and let it become more than a hobby. Me I'll settle for my own crosses and a little trait isolation and backcrossing for fun. but thats because I'm fascinated with herb in itself. but not that I would ever attempt "breeding" for sale. but to me crossing and stuff is not such a bad thing. It means free seeds. some might not be great, but you never know when you'll stumble into a great pheno.;) but..its not easy, its actually frustrating, time consuming, and I notice dry spell of no sens bud. So it is a sacrifice. But I love growing just as much as smoking. I'll do it till the day I die. its not yeild or potency for me, its the love of gardening it.
 
i have read about this long time ago and have collected my female bannanas and ended up losing them before i had the chance to breed . but to make things sound less complicated . let your female go aproximately 10 to 14 days longer in flower than the due date then it will volunteerly form male bannanas with pollen in it . then you wait for another female into flower that has been there for appr. 2 to 2in ahalf weeks into flower then pollenate it like you would with male pollen . just keep in mind to stick the male bannana in the freezer in a freezer bag or somen so you wont lose it like me . another way that i would not do is to stress it out after the forth week into flower with light stress , fertizer stress , ect. but then your looking at the hermie genes . the best way would be the 1st way just time just 2 more weeks into flowering .
 

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