Where spider mites come from....?

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Ekoostik_Hookah

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hey yall,

my question is where do spider mites come from?? how are they born? do they come from outside?? do they come from the woodwork??
are they caused by too much humidy or something like that.
is there a way to prevent Mites, b4 u have them????
 
im going to kinda answer my own question, but if you have more info...please post

Life History and Habits
Spider mites develop from eggs, which usually are laid near the veins of leaves during the growing season. Most spider mite eggs are round and extremely large in proportion to the size of the mother. After egg hatch, the old egg shells remain and can be useful in diagnosing spider mite problems.

There is some variation in the habits of the different mites that attack garden plants, trees and shrubs. Outdoors, the twospotted spider mite and honeylocust spider mite survive winter as adults hidden in protected areas such as bark cracks, bud scales or under debris around the garden. Other mites survive the cool season in the egg stage. As winter approaches, most mites change color, often turning more red or orange. This habit may be why they are sometimes called "red spiders."

Most spider mite activity peaks during the warmer months. They can develop rapidly during this time, becoming full-grown in as little as a week after eggs hatch. After mating, mature females may produce a dozen eggs daily for a couple of weeks. The fast development rate and high egg production can lead to extremely rapid increases in mite populations.

Other species of spider mites are most active during the cooler periods of the growing season, in spring and fall. This includes the spruce spider mite and most of the mites that can damage turfgrass. These cool-season spider mites may cease development and produce dormant eggs to survive hot summer weather.

Dry conditions greatly favor all spider mites, an important reason why they are so important in the more arid areas of the country. They feed more under dry conditions, as the lower humidity allows them to evaporate excess water they excrete. At the same time, most of their natural enemies require more humid conditions and are stressed by arid conditions. Furthermore, plants stressed by drought can produce changes in their chemistry that make them more nutritious to spider mites
 
The two-spotted spider mite overwinters as an adult in the soil; the honeylocust mite overwinters as an adult in bark crevices on the trunk and branches. Most other common species on trees and shrubs overwinter as tiny round eggs on leaves or bark. These eggs hatch in March or April. First-stage larvae have only six legs, but after molting, they become eight-legged nymphs. Both larvae and nymphs resemble the adults. Development time from egg to adult varies from five to 21 days depending on the species of mite and the weather. Many generations occur each year. Under optimal conditions, populations can build up very rapidly. Spider mites on conifers and broad-leaved evergreens are cool-weather pests. They feed heavily and reproduce quickly in spring and fall. Activity is low during the hot part of summer, although damage is often at a maximum and becomes easier to see when other plants are green and growing normally. Spider mites on honeylocust, linden, elm, willow, and oak are destructive in the summer. The two-spotted mite thrives whenever conditions are favorable for plant growth.
 
i read somewhere, that if you take a bowl, and add chlorine to it, and stick that in your indoor garden, that it will keep Mites away.
i dont kno if its true.....and im not sure if i want my buds smelling like the Local swimming pool.....minus the pee.
 
they can come into your grow on you, your clothes, pets, through ventilation systems, ect. ect. ect...

an interesting tid-bit on their lifecycle,

A female lays about 100 eggs during her lifetime. Depending upon climate conditions, the eggs hatch in as little as 2-3 days, and the adult stage is reached in 7-10 days. The females reproduction is greatly affected by climate and humidity with a significant difference in the days till their maturity dependant upon the temperature i.e.) egg to adult. For instance at 60 degrees Fahrenheit, it takes 30 days for the egg to become an adult, at 70 degrees 14.5 days and here is the astounding number - 90 degrees Fahrenheit they reach adulthood in just 3.5 days! So now imagine those populations increases over a month when the offspring start to reproduce less than a week after hatching - at 70 degrees she and her offspring number 13,000; at 80 degrees she and her offspring represent a staggering potential of 13,000,000 individuals over a single month - huge population increases!

Mites evaporate large quantities of water from their bodies, so they must **** juices from the plants. This is easier for them to do in a dry environment. Humid environments (above 60% RH) slow down their metabolism, life span and reproductive rate. Mites may be controlled somewhat by lowering the temperatures (at about 50 degrees Fahrenheit they start to hibernate), thus slowing down their life process considerable. Even if you only decrease the temperature during the indoor dark cycle (when it is easier to lower temperatures), the progression rate of the infestation is slowed considerable

I was recently doing a bit of online research on mites and came to a site at the university of indiana or something.
These folks said that mites need to transpire almost continually. They suggested using a bit of "wilt proof" on them as it slows the transpiration process down.
They also said that they have been successful using a mixture of 1/2 isopropyl alcohol to 1/2 water and spraying it directly on the plants making sure to cover entire surface top and bottom of leaves. let dry and then 15 minutes later hit them again with the same solution.

The site went on to say that they have seen very little harm to the plants treated and have had 100% success in killing the mites on the plants treated with this method.
 
DIDNT THINK about them comming in on me.
i am in the woods alot, and i have found ticks in my hair b4, never checkd 4 mites.
i always go in the grow room shirtless though....
 
they are part of the arachnid family! I have had only two cases of spidermites and both times the less healthier runts of the litter were the victims. On my first grow the problem got out of hand before I knew it and I lost the plant. One cool thing is ( i know *** is cool boutz that) that they didnt spread to any other plants, which i appreciated, they seemingly chose the weakest one and continued to feed on it so I pulled it and after that no more problems. In a way they prolly help ensure strong genetics because they generally attack less resilent ones. Ok sorry just a stoned observation.....
 
Mites can literally come from anywhere. But they mostly come in on new clones you bring in to your setup or from other growers coming in to your setup.
 
they can come from people going in your house with their shoes on my friend just think of it like that//////
 
thanks alot guys,
Im going to be more careful when entering the "room" now.

I think i should get one of thoes Radiation suits!!! the all white ones, with white shoes, a huge white helment thingy......that should keep em away.
 
Runbyhemp said:
You hit that one right on the dot lol i have had them and they are the worst critters to have to deal with you can never get rid of them when they are in your grow just controll them thanks for that great info that you posted though peace
 
i read somewhere, that if you take a bowl, and add chlorine to it, and stick that in your indoor garden, that it will keep Mites away.
i dont kno if its true.....and im not sure if i want my buds smelling like the Local swimming pool.....minus the pee.
I use Co2 in my grow, so if I get mites I in-cress the gas level by 500 for 5 days, Works wonders, But you have to be careful when you enter the room (best not to) As it can kill you also.
 
I have been using this product for a few years now. I use it as a root trench to prevent any insects. I have had NO problems since I started using this. In fact I just went to my hydro store to buy another pt. Which last me almost a year. Cost was $ 22.95. It's very easy to use, what I do is put a 1/2 of tbl. spoon every other watering for the first 2 weeks. Then a 1/2 tbl. spoon every 2 weeks after that. I use this only on my mothers. And I have never had any problems all through flowering with my clones. Plus this is also organic.
This is the name : SNS 209 Systemic.
I think everyone should give this a try. You won't be sorry. I have never used this outdoors, but I'm going to give it a try this year. And I don't for see any problems.
Anyway take care and stay HIGH........................................................................
 
The SNS 209 and the SNS 217 and some luck have helped keep me spider mite free. I have grown only from clones for the past 6 years. No dogs allowed in the grow area helps as well I am sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-Natur...l+science+217&qid=1554594744&s=gateway&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Sierra-Natur...l+science+209&qid=1554594805&s=gateway&sr=8-1
These are a bit pricey. They have worked well for me though. I am a big fan of this stuff. FYI : Another name for SNS is Sierra Natural Science.
 
I had some spider mites on my very first grow here in the living room. I could see fine spider webbing in the topmost of my plant and with the light I observed tiny "mites" moving along on those strands. I believe I have successfully AND completely eradicated them with a cheap and simple means with no residue and no harm to the plant. Cost..... pennies. Curious?
 
Spider mites are very tiny and can crawl in or be carried in very easily. I had them for a while now, they can be controlled with pesticides and to eradicate them I am now considering buying an ozone generator that i can put in my room while there are no plants to kill all the mites that are laying around. They can be eradicated from plants but they hide and hibernate in crevices and will eventually come back s I think that hving ozone ready to use is not a bad idea. It also sterilizes the space from eny other contaminants. I still did not go deep enough in my study to determine how much ozone I need but I know it is more than regular ozone odor treatment.
 
We have an Ozone gernerator at the winery where I work. Does a great job! It injects O3 into a water stream and we use it for sanitizing tanks and such as we don't have to rinse the tank when were done. Leaves a sweet smelling odor in the cellar. Costs around $10,000.00
 
lets get a few of those at that price aksarben.
Hi Zem, long time no see. How you doing dude?
 
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