Search results

That better be an entire light setup, not just the ballast... that's the kind of price you would pay for a 1000w Lumatek.

An interesting read for sure, this thread should be stickied. That could be because some electronic ballasts use built-in fans for cooling. Lumatek doesn't use any fans (they don't need them), and I have never heard one complaint or lamp failure with a Lumatek ballast.

Most nutrient lines will contain the trace minerals you need in at least one of their products. So if you are feeding your plants properly you won't have to worry about deficiencies from using extremely soft water.

I've been fine, thanks. DomsChron and I have been taking quite a few bong rips of Autumn Fall these last few weeks... you're definitely going to enjoy growing this strain.:cool: So, I'm assuming you've got three plants in those two pots? Looks like that space will have a nice full canopy in no...

Looking good so far Thorn :). I also have some Orange Candy Floss beans that I'll be starting soon, so I'll definitely be following this one.

What are you going to do during the dark period? I would just get a small heater set to turn on whenever the lights go off.

Alright, I have a plan that I think should work well. How does having one 6" fan for intake, then using the 8" to exhaust air through the AC sound? I would leave one end of the reflector open, then attach flexible ducting on the other end which leads to the 8" max fan which either pushes air...

That's an interesting idea you have there. So you're saying use the AC as the room exhaust and have one 8" intake? I would install the intake at the bottom of the room, and use a rack placed above the intake for the pots to ensure the plants don't get blown over. Would this be a sensible idea or...

Here you go... http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26682

If there is air movement and the humidity isn't exceeding 60% then you shouldn't have any problems with mold. Even at temperatures around 60-65 degrees it doesn't take too much longer than 1-1.5 weeks in my experience for the buds to be dry enough for the sealable jar stage.

If you FIM without missing the growth shoot, only one cut is needed to "create" four main stems. In reality, it's the same thing as topping because only the main stem is split, the other two branches are the ones growing at the latest node. The difference between it and topping is that growth...

If you want strong stems, use an oscillating fan to circulate air. If you want thick stems, then supercrop.

I own both a 21" Illadelph Rasta label 5.0mm beaker and a 23" Roor Fairmaster 5.0mm straight, and they were both absolutely worth the money. High quality glassware such as Roor, Illadelph, and LUX have much better glass-on-glass seals than cheaper brands, and their diffusers and ashcatchers are...

The dimensions of my upcoming grow room will be 4'4"x4'4"x6'7", so a total of 142 cubic feet. I will be using an 8" Can Max fan to cool the reflector, but I don't know what would be the best option for exchanging the air in the room; Two 667cfm 8" Can Max fans (1 intake+1 exhaust) or one 10"...

If you want to maximize your harvest for that space keeping them short and bushy is the best way to go.

Sounds like you got it right, I'll be using this same method too on my upcoming harvest. Some other things I've read: -The drying temp should be 70-75 degrees, and <40% humidity. -Brown bag when buds are crisp on the outside -When burping (during either brown bag or mason jar stage) completely...

Besides Lowryder, the only autoflowering strains I know of are Dutchbreed's crosses. Someone who grew Mini Thunderfuck with low night temps had a few very purple phenos, and I've seen Lowberry pictures with a good amount of purple in it (it's Dutch Passion Blueberry mother x Joint Doctor...

Start adding the nutes again, the lack of them for that long is probably what caused the yellowing. Big Bloom has a very low NPK ratio so it'd probably be a good idea to increase the dose. Start at just a little higher than the usual amount you give them and slowly increase until just the very...

Leave it alone after fixing the lights, new flower growth should start to appear around the burned areas and the yield decrease from the incident will be minimized. Cutting off the burned section would more than likely lead to even more stress and stunted growth.

If you use distilled or reverse osmosis purified water, and use a completely organic soil with micro-organisms which hasn't been sterilized, then I can't see what could mess up the PH. I recommend BioBizz nutrients if you're looking for something with molasses and is 100% organic.