hey look!! that's why u can't start w/hps!

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papabeach1

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this is only 2 month old!!:eek:

yes you can say I did abused this one lol

look green yea!! but look young and stressed by 1000w HPS

notice this balls?? its Male..... jeez detected it by only 2 month old!!

hps can stress the plants like this... its good to start with cfls/flours.
and MH HID blubs

any comments about this, would be appericate thanks!!

klh.jpg
 
papabeach i am a newb was thinking on doing my first indoor project wanted to know what lights are good for a 4x3 room
 
T5 and cfls would be great start.. and save your power bill..

or little MH like 400w or 600w

its good to look around, make list, how much you spend to get it
and how much you can spend on the power bill.. soils is good to start..
 
daf said:
papabeach i am a newb was thinking on doing my first indoor project wanted to know what lights are good for a 4x3 room

600w Hps or 2 600's Aircooled:bongin:
 
haha vancover I ll leave this male plant on the table, I ll post better pic tommorrow too tired lol...

hey it look kinda hermie but sorry no buds, but closer!! dang

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wotever dude i grow with 400 watt son agro from seed and never have no hassle but wot it comes down to is trial and error and learn from your mistakes if it has light and heat you can grow anything
 
Yep, you certainly can start seeds directly under HPS, I've done it plenty of times. The only downside is that the seedlings will stretch more and you have to watch out for heat. I have also noticed a higher percentage of males.

I've grown dozens of seedlings this way and have to say that none of them ever looked anything like the pics you posted papa'. That plant looks sick, and I can tell you, it had nothing to do with being started under HPS. Just look at the colour of the leaves.

Any chance you were over watering it ?
 
if using hps make sure that you can raise the light as you plant grows .have about a foot between light and plant or put hand on pot and if too hot move .has to be a happy medium and you will grow excellent just keep trying
 
Runbyhemp said:
Yep, you certainly can start seeds directly under HPS, I've done it plenty of times. The only downside is that the seedlings will stretch more and you have to watch out for heat. I have also noticed a higher percentage of males.

I've grown dozens of seedlings this way and have to say that none of them ever looked anything like the pics you posted papa'. That plant looks sick, and I can tell you, it had nothing to do with being started under HPS. Just look at the colour of the leaves.

Any chance you were over watering it ?

watered it once a week!!..nice h20.. the HOOD was only little more than 3 ft. under this plant... when I took other 2 that is same size.. to under the cfl, it turn GREEN...... the HPS did turn that leaves yellow cuz its hot, and sucked the water out of their leaves... 1000w come on man!!
 
I have no problem if I has 400 or 600w hps with air cooled attached...

but this one ran with 1000w HPS which still is too much and HOT...
has to use A/C to keep the blub cool..... what I am saying its good start with MH or cfls/flours. HPS can cause kind of the stress like that.. if I pull the hood far than 3 ft.. it can strench the plants... what the heck I was just testing it.. plants seem like to be under cfl or MH to start with.....
 
papabeach1 said:
watered it once a week!!..nice h20.. the HOOD was only little more than 3 ft. under this plant... when I took other 2 that is same size.. to under the cfl, it turn GREEN...... the HPS did turn that leaves yellow cuz its hot, and sucked the water out of their leaves... 1000w come on man!!

...then blame the "heat".. don't blame the hps..;)..if you had 1000 watts of cfl's in there, you'd be experiencing the "same" issues...
an hps is absolutely fine to start seedling or clones under, as long as your other factors are within the recommended perimeters.
 
:yeahthat:

I agree with Hick. And a MH is going to put out as much heat as a HPS. I have a 400W MH that puts out a lot of heat. The stretching is a result of the light spectrum. The stress appears to be related to heat.
 
yeah that's heats to blame... high pressure sodium that's part of heats too..?

for example if I has two same hoods, one has 1000w hps, and other one has
super cfl blub in it .. it will not produce lot heats as 1000w hps will do...

I also picked up 2 of 2 ft long of T8 dual flours. lights 40w 18000 lum per tube. total of 4 tubes!! that will not give much heats also..
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
:yeahthat:

I agree with Hick. And a MH is going to put out as much heat as a HPS. I have a 400W MH that puts out a lot of heat. The stretching is a result of the light spectrum. The stress appears to be related to heat.
Actually, in tests, MH put out more heat than HPS, per/watt.

Do did CFL's.

Watt for Watt, HPS uses more electricity for light and less for heat per/watt, then any other form of lighting.

This isn't debatable. It's already been proven beyond any doubt. I've even posted the charts here before that show this.

As Hick says, the amount of light/heat/IR produced by whatever bulb you use has to be adjusted for. Air circulation, air input, CO2 replacement, heat dissipation, container temperature, water pH, root temps, root aeration, nutrient balance and concentration....all of these factors have to be taken into consideration. Failure to do so ends up with plant stress. Plant stress shows itself as males quite often.

Seedlings need very little light in comparison to plants that are past the seedling stage.
 
as far I can remember looking at the MH 1000w... the light rays look very blue and bright... I did sticks my arm under the hood.. its pretty hot even when a/c is hooked to the hose to the hood.. the MH did a brilliant job of veg cycle.. wish I can afford to use both ballast, both hood, same time..veg/bloom in the maximum.. but I don't think the fuses can handle both wattages (2000w) running same time.. so I decide to play safe with cfls for the veg... I only use 6 daylight 23 watt each. those lights rays is very close and blue as MH can do.. but not produce lot of heats like MH does.. eventhough.. all my 11 plants under it is very green... they are showing their sexes soon too.. very pretty, and the clones is doing great with cfls too..
 
papabeach1 said:
I only use 6 daylight 23 watt each. those lights rays is very close and blue as MH can do.. but not produce lot of heats like MH does.. even though.. all my 11 plants under it is very green... they are showing their sexes soon too.. very pretty, and the clones is doing great with cfls too..
You're using 138 watts of light. If you were using a 150 watt HPS, you'd have the same results if the light was at the same level to provide the same amount of lumens at canopy level. The problems you were having aren't with the type of light you were using. Your problems were in how much light you were using. All lights emit heat as a byproduct of producing plant usable light. IR is produced by ALL lights that you'll find for consumer use. Too large of light = too much IR. Too much IR = too much heat. IR cannot be deflected by air movement/replacement. The IR produced by any given bulb will strike the plant. How much IR and what strength it is, is determined by the distance of the light from the plant canopy. The distance of the light from the canopy determines the quantity of plant usable light that reaches the plant.

HPS produces the largest amount of plant usable light, with the least amount of produced IR and radiant heat per/watt, of any type of bulb available to the consumer. It just has to be used appropriately to prevent the problems that you experienced.
 

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