How critical are temps in 2nd half of flowering?

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ifsixwasnin9

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Are temps really critical for final phase of trichome development (turning opaque/amber and/or bulbous tips)? I've never had trichomes which turned color I think which is why I ask and I want to finish my crop properly. (My AK, WW, OG Kush look very good and are sticky but clear right now in 7th-8th week.)

I usually get 70-73 deg during day and 62-65 deg at night.

I read that night should be:
- "preferable during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 10-20 degrees to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation"
- "While one should always make an effort to maintain temperatures below 85 degrees (F), cannabis can handle higher temperatures and you're probably not going to ruin your crop if your grow room peaks in the mid to upper 90's during the day.
- "Low humidity (below 60% during vegetative growth or below 40% during flowering) can stress plants.
"

Opt. Temps and Humidity -
hXXp://www.growery.org/2824/Optimal-Humidity-rH-and-Temperature-Ranges-for-Cannabis
 
temps are important during all stages of growth. i'm not sure if temp has a direct effect on trichome production, but it deff has an indirect effect. its hard being patient enough to wait for your trichs to amber.
 
you just never wanna be too too hot or too too cold during late flower, but i would rather it be a little chilly than a little too warm.
 
I agree with Dman, I think cooler is better. I wouldn't ever run my highs above 80 degrees if I can help it (unless I was injecting CO2). If for no other reason than it makes the buds fluffy when they are constantly hot, while cooler temps helps the buds stay tight.

I haven't heard about low humidity stressing plants, unless its extreemely low and causing the plants to over-dry. During the latter part of the bud building phase 40% humidity is preferred to prevent bud rot.

More often than not, the breeder finishing times and average yield are not accurate to the grower's reality. Also, when you switch to flowering, if the grow is not ideal then it will take longer than expected to finish. I have several strains that are 8wk strains and I run all of them to 9wks. I also have a 9wk strain that I run to 10wks and it could easily go 11wks. I would say to give them another week or 2. If they haven't started foxtailing yet then they aren't ready anyway :)
 
That is when the bud gets really fat at the top and begins to grow smaller elongated buds that kind of look like fingers growing out of the bud. That means the plant is going into the bottom of the ninth inning(baseball metaphor) and she's trying to load the bases for one last shot at pollination. :)
 
I had seen this foxtailing before but didn't know why it was happening thanks for the usefully info guys.
 
"Foxtailing"... can acure for many reasons....

I try and stay withing the same temps...A higher temp brings lower RH..which than is perfect mite enviorment:doh:...But i have read higher temps do increase resin production..but I have yet to play with it...i like 78-82..

take care and be safe
 
I have only seen it happen at the last of the blooming. What else causes it?
 
ifsixwasnin9 said:
Are temps really critical for final phase of trichome development (turning opaque/amber and/or bulbous tips)? I've never had trichomes which turned color I think which is why I ask and I want to finish my crop properly. (My AK, WW, OG Kush look very good and are sticky but clear right now in 7th-8th week.)

I usually get 70-73 deg during day and 62-65 deg at night.

I read that night should be:
- "preferable during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 10-20 degrees to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation"
- "While one should always make an effort to maintain temperatures below 85 degrees (F), cannabis can handle higher temperatures and you're probably not going to ruin your crop if your grow room peaks in the mid to upper 90's during the day.
- "Low humidity (below 60% during vegetative growth or below 40% during flowering) can stress plants.
"

Opt. Temps and Humidity -
hXXp://www.growery.org/2824/Optimal-Humidity-rH-and-Temperature-Ranges-for-Cannabis

I have to tell you that in all my years of growing, this is the first time I have every heard the assertion that temperature drops of 10-20 degrees during "night" stimulates flowering hormones and reduces stem elongation, and I question its validity. Flowering hormones are triggered by the dark period. And unless the temps get so low that the plant stops growing, I do not see how lower temps during the dark period have anything at all to do with stretch. I also usually have low humidity (sometimes really really low) and do not seem to have stressed plants.

How are you checking your trichs when you get ready to harvest? I cannot imagine never having trichs change color.
 
IMO i believe we must grow like mother nature intended even indoors for best results so with that being said as you get late in bloom stage bring in the cold is a good thing.
Like giving plants a shiver could very well send a response to plant like hey we better get our selfs in gear winter is coming no different then animals sheding there summer coats for there winter coats.
Its inbedded in the DNA to do just that i would think for plants its the same
What triggers a squirrel to start storing its food for the winter months ,, or ducks to start heading south right thats just it
So it would be no different to a plant with
in early to mid summer humidity is high so plant flourish in fall as temps cool down humidity lowers
is it your worrying about mold that forces you to lower humidity in flower ???

The process of flowering follows the following sequence:

Proper stimuli (temperature & photoperiod).
Ripeness-to-flower stage · Vernalin · Florigin · Flower.

Factors affecting flowering are photoperiod, temperature and humidity.

Flowering behaviour of plants is controlled by seasonal changes. There are two types of flowers with respect to the seasonal effect on flowering:

a) Little influence of seasonal changes: e.g. roses, marigold, chrysanthemum, heliconia, etc.
b) Great seasonal influence: e.g. jasmine, dendrobium orchids, etc.

Seasonal factors can be of various types viz.
i) Photoperiodic influence: This includes short day plants, which are temperature and humidity influenced; also long day plants, which are also temperature and humidity influenced.
ii) Temperature influence: This includes low temperature requiring plants, which are photoperiodic and humidity influenced; as also, high temperature requiring plants which are also photoperiodic and humidity influenced.

iii) Humidity influence: Including low and high humidity requiring plants.
 
Cold might be good for females,,but it doesnt help us guys out at all.:eek:


:48:
 
THG i am starting to believe that YES colder running temps will stop stretch phase my flowering girls now if you check my thread in journals were litterally 3 - 4 days in the dark at begining of flower with temps in the low 50's as i had to move them as fire inspector was coming over rather be safe then sorry right??? Anyways my girls when i finally placed them under lights and still low 50 lights off period never stretched from actual plant size from flipping
 
Hushpuppy said:
That is when the bud gets really fat at the top and begins to grow smaller elongated buds that kind of look like fingers growing out of the bud. That means the plant is going into the bottom of the ninth inning(baseball metaphor) and she's trying to load the bases for one last shot at pollination. :)



Just for comparison - this is fox tailing on a Blueberry, caused by genetics and probably slightly high temps and residual N in late flowering - quite pretty though

user83092_pic148436_1250965577.jpg
 
DrFever said:
THG i am starting to believe that YES colder running temps will stop stretch phase my flowering girls now if you check my thread in journals were litterally 3 - 4 days in the dark at begining of flower with temps in the low 50's as i had to move them as fire inspector was coming over rather be safe then sorry right??? Anyways my girls when i finally placed them under lights and still low 50 lights off period never stretched from actual plant size from flipping

I personally have never seen this. My temps often get into the high 50s in the winter when we have cold snaps. I have never noticed any difference in stretch depending on temps.

Always better safe than sorry.
 
ifsixwasnin9 said:
Are temps really critical for final phase of trichome development (turning opaque/amber and/or bulbous tips)? I've never had trichomes which turned color I think which is why I ask and I want to finish my crop properly. (My AK, WW, OG Kush look very good and are sticky but clear right now in 7th-8th week.)

I usually get 70-73 deg during day and 62-65 deg at night.

I read that night should be:
- "preferable during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 10-20 degrees to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation"
- "While one should always make an effort to maintain temperatures below 85 degrees (F), cannabis can handle higher temperatures and you're probably not going to ruin your crop if your grow room peaks in the mid to upper 90's during the day.
- "Low humidity (below 60% during vegetative growth or below 40% during flowering) can stress plants."

Opt. Temps and Humidity -
hXXp://www.growery.org/2824/Optimal-Humidity-rH-and-Temperature-Ranges-for-Cannabis


Dude, your temps are fine! just watch your humidity keep it low during flowering :watchplant: Enjoy your harvest!
 
DrFever said:
Just for comparison - this is fox tailing on a Blueberry, caused by genetics and probably slightly high temps and residual N in late flowering - quite pretty though
Hey DF; That is exactly what mine look like. I get those on a couple different plant strains, but only late in flowering when I let the go longer before harvesting. I believe that there has to be a genetic propensity for it, and I do feed mine strong enough for them to stay fully green all the way to harvest. You may be correct on the extra Nitrogen having an affect. I am going to start cutting back my feedings sooner and cut out the "grow" nutes sooner as well and see if that makes a difference in how they finish. I haven't yet started using the magnets as I am trying to get the rooms and strains dialed in first so that we can see the results with as few of other influences as possible. :)
 
WeedHopper said:
HUH???:huh:

Using magnetized water to feed your plants, I use a 10 gallon pail with magnets taped all around the sides @ 2 " intervals i start with 5 gallons of water and with a drill press with mud mixer attached i slowly stir it 12 hrs adding more water every couple of hrs till i get my amount needed for my watering days as well add food my last hr before feeding so its all mixed up real good. i can see a big difference as well will post harvest day actual plants looks and size of buds which i think many will be shocked at how well actual plant looks as in health wise
 

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