From Lucas himself. (serious growers with patience only)

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NorCalHal said:
I don't think anyone is saying "don't use nuits", I think it is more about not usuing additives to a nuit regimine. But hey man, I just woke up and havn't burned anything yet!

Might be right Bro,,I was high. Besides I like Debates. I learn alot from these discussions,,and sometimes I just like watching PPL's reactions to things.:D
OH,,and I thought Lucas was that stuff in little packages with lemon and salt.;)
 
JB, what size indoor greenhouse do you use with your 600W?
 
ross said:
JB, what size indoor greenhouse do you use with your 600W?

click my sig.

1000w hps hortilux/lumatek
sunhut silver grow tent 54"x54"x84"

Light is cooled by a 500 cfm vortex fan
Passive intake, 150 cfm fan, Carbon filter, exhaust is pushed out of the tent via ventilation.
Tower fan takes up less space, and the flow of air bathes the plant with fresh circulated air constantly, negating the need for co2.

Average temp is 74-80 degrees
Average RH is 45-65
 
Jbonez -Bold
Skallie- standard text

Ok i was making the assumption your growing environment was correct obviously this is the most important thing in growing and until the environment is pretty much spot on you will not get optimum results.

We agree on something! lets see what else we share as common knowledge, continue....

As for my theory it is factual his environment has been dialed in to perfection for about 6 years now with little or no change to nutrients used apart from the additives/boosteres named above.

Has he been growing the same strain for six years? this would negate your point if not.

Cervantes book crap ok i may have gone overboard but if i had it to hand i could dismiss many of his statements.

Again, i fully agree, the man can grow, and he uses alot of "fluff" imo, i just found his book to be informative, yet rather contradictive. Ive read more than you would believe, not just referencing one book and i can provide you with my source material if you like.

Quit posting sorry but what gives you the right to question what i state just because you happen to disagree with my comments.

This was a little rash of me, i assumed you were new as you left out certain information, this in effect made its seem you lacked experience, which is clearly not the case.

Oh sorry i wasnt aware you had been growing for 7 months.

Yeppers, well, maybe 8 by now, lol. But time is of no relavance, you should know this. There are growers on here that have been growing longer than me and cant quite seems to get it imo.

A ph meter in soil is not necessity when starting out again im making the assumption people just water until the available nutes are all used up in the soil.

Thanks for clarifying that but YOUR statement contradicts itself.

Your statement Verbatim
"Ok ill say my bit soil is easier to the beginner firstly ph is buffered so one can do without the cf or ph meters and just follow nute doses on bottle."

And my rebuttle
Follow nute doses on the bottle? Does that work in fantasy island?

Soil will buffer ph if its too high or too low-you clearly do not know much about growing if you beg to differ.

I dont beg to differ, but the nutrient accumulation in my plants rootball, causing the ph to be significantly lower would.

Sure, soil, depending on brand, could be a buffer, if the water ph was at most 6.2, and the soil was a perfect 7.0 and no nutes. The only result of these two ph differences that could happen are still in the range for maximum uptake, you cant argue this.

How does your tds meter know the make up of what is in your res when you have topped up... it may well show as the correct tds but the fact it may be 50% too much of one mineral which wasnt used up by the plants prior to the topping up therefore we now move onto the stage of lockout through too much of one or more minerals.

You make an extremely valid point, and let me explain why it can and apparently does work.

The reason i am so for the lucas formula is this.
The formula simply does one thing. It meets the base requirements and nutrients in proper proportions to sustain growth without overdoing it.
Assuming the res needs to be "topped off" i would ascertain that the plant is obviously using its nutrients as needed. However, with the content of this formula, as it was designed to do, the plants theoretically should proportionately absorb as well.

The addback calculator is a easy way to predict where the plants are at, and lucas himself states that this will most likely raise tds levels above recommended levels, this is where individuality comes into play and we/I will have to adjust to that. But he proves my point nonetheless.



To an extent ph/cf drifts are acceptable but to low to high with either causes lockouts and stalls a plant yes i understand the basics of a plants uptake requirements btw.

Define "extent", i would say that as long as the plants ec/ph flux is complementing uptake range that this could not possibly be a problem.


Ok ill now leave the thread i dont want to cause any more offence.
skallie.

NOOO, your not off the hook that easy, this is a debate, and i clearly explained my reasoning for asking you not to post, its apparent that you NEED to be in this thread, think of those benefitting from our conversation!
 
thats what im talking about, proper disagreement and agreement, true debate at its finest with no hard feelings in the name of learning, lets keep this going,

Norcal, keep this thread alive brotha!
 
Hey JBonez Can you lead me to Lucas's take on bonsai growing? I have been researching Bonsai and not finding much info. I want to get the best references for Bonsai growing marijuana.
What is you thoughts on bonsai?
:peace:
 
ross said:
what do you use for veg?

400w metal halide lumatek/no name mh, not important in veg, lumens wise

this is a pic of my veg tent, much smaller than my flowering tent as i only need to clone from it and keep rotational mothers.

notice how ive been lst'ing the heck out of em, really put out some numbers come time to take cuttings.

I usually take way more than i need, then, pick the ones that look most i identical in growth pattern, (stagard branches, size, stem thickness, leaf size) that way i will achieve the most even canopy, pumping out larger yields per 1000w light.

IMG_2047.jpg
 
skallie said:
ill reply tomorrow ive just smoked some cheese and i feel the onset of a whitey

:rofl: hahah just came in from smoking some reeeal good cheese, first thread i went to read that awesome.
cheese has actually become my faveourite smoke :D
 
thedonofchronic said:
:rofl: hahah just came in from smoking some reeeal good cheese, first thread i went to read that awesome.
cheese has actually become my faveourite smoke :D

sigh, i wouldnt know, but if i wanted to by a good cheese strain from a seedbank, who is the famous breeder that has the closest strain or most stable productive version?

Id love to grow cheese as people here dont come across that but on a rare occasion.
 
Try one of these breeders Big Buddha, Barney's Farm, Green House
 
Oh and if anyone is interested in buying the 3 part Flora series- quart size for $37 shipped send me a pm and I will give you the eBay store. Or you can try and find it yourself ...I couldn't believe they were selling the whole set for so cheap, but I got mine yesterday- so it's legit.

I'd rather people on this forum get it than anyone else-
 
JBonez said:
Jbonez -Bold
Skallie- standard text

Ok i was making the assumption your growing environment was correct obviously this is the most important thing in growing and until the environment is pretty much spot on you will not get optimum results.

We agree on something! lets see what else we share as common knowledge, continue....

As for my theory it is factual his environment has been dialed in to perfection for about 6 years now with little or no change to nutrients used apart from the additives/boosteres named above.

Has he been growing the same strain for six years? this would negate your point if not.

yes my mate is me and yes i have

Cervantes book crap ok i may have gone overboard but if i had it to hand i could dismiss many of his statements.

Again, i fully agree, the man can grow, and he uses alot of "fluff" imo, i just found his book to be informative, yet rather contradictive. Ive read more than you would believe, not just referencing one book and i can provide you with my source material if you like.

why i know it all now:hubba: :rolleyes: :holysheep:

Quit posting sorry but what gives you the right to question what i state just because you happen to disagree with my comments.

This was a little rash of me, i assumed you were new as you left out certain information, this in effect made its seem you lacked experience, which is clearly not the case.

Oh sorry i wasnt aware you had been growing for 7 months.

Yeppers, well, maybe 8 by now, lol. But time is of no relavance, you should know this. There are growers on here that have been growing longer than me and cant quite seems to get it imo.

your on track with your groing thats for sure jbonez:D

A ph meter in soil is not necessity when starting out again im making the assumption people just water until the available nutes are all used up in the soil.

Thanks for clarifying that but YOUR statement contradicts itself.

Your statement Verbatim
"Ok ill say my bit soil is easier to the beginner firstly ph is buffered so one can do without the cf or ph meters and just follow nute doses on bottle."

And my rebuttle
Follow nute doses on the bottle? Does that work in fantasy island?

ok again i left out vital info i used ionic nutes during my 1st ventures into growing and i now know it happens to be way lower what they state on the label to get the required cf so following these doses will do no harm imho as its below the required strength:p

Soil will buffer ph if its too high or too low-you clearly do not know much about growing if you beg to differ.

I dont beg to differ, but the nutrient accumulation in my plants rootball, causing the ph to be significantly lower would.

flushing would be beneficial but im at a loss as to how you measure rootball ph:holysheep:

Sure, soil, depending on brand, could be a buffer, if the water ph was at most 6.2, and the soil was a perfect 7.0 and no nutes. The only result of these two ph differences that could happen are still in the range for maximum uptake, you cant argue this.

sure cant man

How does your tds meter know the make up of what is in your res when you have topped up... it may well show as the correct tds but the fact it may be 50% too much of one mineral which wasnt used up by the plants prior to the topping up therefore we now move onto the stage of lockout through too much of one or more minerals.

You make an extremely valid point, and let me explain why it can and apparently does work.

The reason i am so for the lucas formula is this.
The formula simply does one thing. It meets the base requirements and nutrients in proper proportions to sustain growth without overdoing it.
Assuming the res needs to be "topped off" i would ascertain that the plant is obviously using its nutrients as needed. However, with the content of this formula, as it was designed to do, the plants theoretically should proportionately absorb as well.

yes but in the real world some plants will uptake some trace minerals more than others and others uptake other some different trace minerals thius making the res reading although looking ok may be down on lets say for example hardly any phos or potash so effectively reading as fine may be all over the place.

this is why top ups are rubbish and res changes on a weekly basis are essential imo:rolleyes::D

The addback calculator is a easy way to predict where the plants are at, and lucas himself states that this will most likely raise tds levels above recommended levels, this is where individuality comes into play and we/I will have to adjust to that. But he proves my point nonetheless.

well its all upto you then i cannot be there to contradict whats happening in your res:p


To an extent ph/cf drifts are acceptable but to low to high with either causes lockouts and stalls a plant yes i understand the basics of a plants uptake requirements btw.

Define "extent", i would say that as long as the plants ec/ph flux is complementing uptake range that this could not possibly be a problem.

im aware that the differnt minerals are taken up at different ph ranges but for this to be an actuality would surely cause some inconvenience and as for optimum performance plant wise its easier to just keep within the ph range for soil/hydro


Ok ill now leave the thread i dont want to cause any more offence.
skallie.

NOOO, your not off the hook that easy, this is a debate, and i clearly explained my reasoning for asking you not to post, its apparent that you NEED to be in this thread, think of those benefitting from our conversation!

jesus let me go jbonez

lol

skallie:eek:

ph.jpg
 
JBonez said:
Jbonez -Bold
Skallie- standard text

Ok i was making the assumption your growing environment was correct obviously this is the most important thing in growing and until the environment is pretty much spot on you will not get optimum results.

We agree on something! lets see what else we share as common knowledge, continue....

As for my theory it is factual his environment has been dialed in to perfection for about 6 years now with little or no change to nutrients used apart from the additives/boosteres named above.

Has he been growing the same strain for six years? this would negate your point if not.

yes my mate is me and yes i have

Cervantes book crap ok i may have gone overboard but if i had it to hand i could dismiss many of his statements.

Again, i fully agree, the man can grow, and he uses alot of "fluff" imo, i just found his book to be informative, yet rather contradictive. Ive read more than you would believe, not just referencing one book and i can provide you with my source material if you like.

why i know it all now:hubba: :rolleyes: :holysheep:

Quit posting sorry but what gives you the right to question what i state just because you happen to disagree with my comments.

This was a little rash of me, i assumed you were new as you left out certain information, this in effect made its seem you lacked experience, which is clearly not the case.

Oh sorry i wasnt aware you had been growing for 7 months.

Yeppers, well, maybe 8 by now, lol. But time is of no relavance, you should know this. There are growers on here that have been growing longer than me and cant quite seems to get it imo.

your on track with your groing thats for sure jbonez:D

A ph meter in soil is not necessity when starting out again im making the assumption people just water until the available nutes are all used up in the soil.

Thanks for clarifying that but YOUR statement contradicts itself.

Your statement Verbatim
"Ok ill say my bit soil is easier to the beginner firstly ph is buffered so one can do without the cf or ph meters and just follow nute doses on bottle."

And my rebuttle
Follow nute doses on the bottle? Does that work in fantasy island?

ok again i left out vital info i used ionic nutes during my 1st ventures into growing and i now know it happens to be way lower what they state on the label to get the required cf so following these doses will do no harm imho as its below the required strength:p

Soil will buffer ph if its too high or too low-you clearly do not know much about growing if you beg to differ.

I dont beg to differ, but the nutrient accumulation in my plants rootball, causing the ph to be significantly lower would.

flushing would be beneficial but im at a loss as to how you measure rootball ph:holysheep:

Sure, soil, depending on brand, could be a buffer, if the water ph was at most 6.2, and the soil was a perfect 7.0 and no nutes. The only result of these two ph differences that could happen are still in the range for maximum uptake, you cant argue this.

sure cant man

How does your tds meter know the make up of what is in your res when you have topped up... it may well show as the correct tds but the fact it may be 50% too much of one mineral which wasnt used up by the plants prior to the topping up therefore we now move onto the stage of lockout through too much of one or more minerals.

You make an extremely valid point, and let me explain why it can and apparently does work.

The reason i am so for the lucas formula is this.
The formula simply does one thing. It meets the base requirements and nutrients in proper proportions to sustain growth without overdoing it.
Assuming the res needs to be "topped off" i would ascertain that the plant is obviously using its nutrients as needed. However, with the content of this formula, as it was designed to do, the plants theoretically should proportionately absorb as well.

yes but in the real world some plants will uptake some trace minerals more than others and others uptake other some different trace minerals thius making the res reading although looking ok may be down on lets say for example hardly any phos or potash so effectively reading as fine may be all over the place.

this is why top ups are rubbish and res changes on a weekly basis are essential imo:rolleyes::D

The addback calculator is a easy way to predict where the plants are at, and lucas himself states that this will most likely raise tds levels above recommended levels, this is where individuality comes into play and we/I will have to adjust to that. But he proves my point nonetheless.

well its all upto you then i cannot be there to contradict whats happening in your res:p


To an extent ph/cf drifts are acceptable but to low to high with either causes lockouts and stalls a plant yes i understand the basics of a plants uptake requirements btw.

Define "extent", i would say that as long as the plants ec/ph flux is complementing uptake range that this could not possibly be a problem.

im aware that the differnt minerals are taken up at different ph ranges but for this to be an actuality would surely cause some inconvenience and as for optimum performance plant wise its easier to just keep within the ph range for soil/hydro


Ok ill now leave the thread i dont want to cause any more offence.
skallie.

NOOO, your not off the hook that easy, this is a debate, and i clearly explained my reasoning for asking you not to post, its apparent that you NEED to be in this thread, think of those benefitting from our conversation!

jesus let me go jbonez

lol

skallie:eek:
 
btw it took me over 2 years to get my grubby little hands on uk cheese after many a failed attempts to procur it

lol

skallie
 
the only thing youve stated skallie in your reply that i want to hit on is "rootball ph"

i dont measure my runoff, so i dont know for sure that my rootball is "hot" or not.

Ive just suffered some deficiencies that ive identified as lockout do to ph being too low,

and yeah, i flushed, problem solved, but it was a mag def, and i give them plenty mag so i know that something was inhibiting uptake.

Everything else you stated is too logical and i am actually unable to continue debating as your points speak for themselves and your success shows it, who am i to critique?

thanks, and btw, ive only been looking for a uk cheese for two days, lmao!
 
Btw your taking the piss jbonez you are more than capable of arguing my points im not that stoopid fella
rotflmao
skallie
 

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