How Do You Wire Pulse Start Halide Ballast Kit?

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Wow...

Just now back to see your response.

I'm gonna do just what you said and post a pic BEFORE engergizing!

It's really nice to get rollin' on the wiring for the kit...


Thanks again!:D:D
 
Electric-shock.gif
 
eh 400w just chatter the teeth a bit, got plowed with a 32" CRT that I thought I discharged completely. :shocked: woke up 2 min. later with the wife trying to call 911 LOL only 10k volts LOL
hey I fixed the goose neck board and gained 3 more years of use outa the TV LOL
 
OK, wired it up best I could understand and took a picture...

Starter(ignitor)
(1) starter Blue>>>>> tranformer blue

(2) starter RED>>>>transformer red AND socket red (or it may be black the one from the center prong not the one to the socket threads)
​
Now for the confusing part :p
(3) Starter white 1 >>>> transformer white.

(4) Starter White 2 >>>> Socket White

(5) other transformer white >>>Cap white (doesn't matter...per manufacturer)

(6) Other Cap white wire goes to Transformer (cap wire)

​
The ONLY wire I have left at this point is the Black and Grey wire coming off of the long side of the transformer.

So I'm not sure about what I've got here since you advised that the "Transformers left over white wire goes to input common (right from your your outlet..)"

Sooooo,

What do you think?
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View attachment DSCF3138_800x600.JPG
 
Nope. I do use electrical tape on all wiring nuts just as a extra pre caution. I just watching a learning Mutt is the one that know this stuff I just add comic relief.
 
ozzydiodude said:
Nope. I do use electrical tape on all wiring nuts just as a extra pre caution. I just watching a learning Mutt is the one that know this stuff I just add comic relief.
Click to expand...

cool...:D
 
crap man....
This is my bad. The PSMH I wired were for a shop that had 480v 3-phase.
I had the option of 220v on one wire. household each one has 120v giving combined 220v single phase. sorry dude had to put on a different electrician hat.
You cannot wire this up 220v for residential set up. The ballast has to be made to do it.
You can just make it for the 120v which is one prong for the hot and the other your socket and ignitor white wires go to.
wire it exactly like the pic i gave you with a regular plug. The rest you got right, just the plug is wired wrong.
 
Finally got a hold of a warm body at the Manufacturer...

They say cap off the second white wire on the ignitor... "it doesn't need to go anywhere"... WITHOUT pointing out the inherent DANGER!

A comment from another forum pointed out that...

"NO!! The starter is on the secondary side of the ballast. You NEVER hook secondary to primary. That's a great way to inject 2500 volts into your house wiring.":argue: :argue: :rant: :rant: :argue: :rant:

So I'm hooked up for 240V... going to remove and cap the extra white wire from the ignitor.

Still tenuous about this though...

feedback?

What do you think about this?

The Schematic enlarged from the kit looks like this (finally got my scanner working... it was too small for me to see:

The Ignitor for the kit actually has TWO white wires as you've seen, so I've wired it like this; the second White going to Neutral on the Cords' Plug:

The Modified Schematic for further clarity:

Am I doing this right? HELLL NOOOO.... look at the top of this post!
:holysheep:
 
dude you got me confused now...if it was on my bench it would be fired up by now.

ok so your saying there was a second CAP wire? on the secondary side on your ballast? if so then the ballast info you posted did NOT show that secondary side Cap wire. It showed it going from Cap wire primary side TO cap TO common.

Did you talk to a lady or a guy? I called and they told me that the CAP goes to the common and the wire labeled CAP from the primary. because of oil filled polarity not an issue. per my phone convo. yep I called your ballast manufacturer yesterday.

They say cap off the second white wire on the ignitor... "it doesn't need to go anywhere"...
Click to expand...

common is no where. They are right. It goes right where i said and the schematic you gave me showed it.

Finally your starter IS on the secondary side. blue to blue red to red/socket thats ALL on the secondary. The way you have it wired now.

I love "that';s a great way to "inject 2400v into your house wire"
ummmm it would trip the breaker. Thats it. "inject" I love it. LOL overload, short, open, those terms make sense....inject LOL someone also didn't bother learning things like P=IV.

your wired up right, but at no point was a second cap wire mentioned in the schematics you gave me or any post.
 
Now the 240V
YES the white wire will become a 120v primary and not be common anymore. If you hook it up.
one leg is 120v the other is 120v out of phase combined = 240v IN.
The ballast is designed for commercial. 240v need to be on the 240v wire. Which residential does not provide.
your going to send 120v up the common and fry it.

Most multi-taps are designed for commercial applications with 3-phase line in. 3 lines each one 240v. except for one 277 volt. You can take one leg and supply 220v on a single wire. Helps with wire gauge and long runs. Like in my shop some require 240v single phase (table saw, jointer) some take 480v some require step up transformers cranking up the voltage to euro standard. I've wired it all man.

The supply the 120v as an option for residential application.

If you talked to the lady she doesn't know. or they assume your hooking it up to single phase 220v commercial line. 220v in commercial is way different then 220v residential.

If you don't beleive me and want to go with the other forum guy have fun.
 
Final note:
A lot of these how to's say "hook it up to what ever voltage" 10:1 they never hooked one up for 220v. and giving misleading info.
 
I've had this ballast kit for over a week now.

I won't hook it up before I know it's right.

I'm cooking din din right now...

I really appreciate your info and realize that I do not know the difference between the 220V residential and commercial that you are referring to.

(Oops ended on a preposition)

Hope you'll still be on line later...

I'll take all the time I need to make sure it's right before it's energized.

Thanks again...
 
I really appreciate your info and realize that I do not know the difference between the 220V residential and commercial that you are referring to.
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cool man...the rest looks hooked up perfect...just the cap info and plug is the only IFs. everything else is hooked up great :)
 
:peace::heart::cool2::bump:

Gumbo, deviled crabs, cold smoke salmon and beer,:D OK I can think again now.

First off, thanks again for your input to this point Mutt. I was grateful from the getgo to get feedback from anyone with (comin' up) 10K posts and "reputation beyond repute". :holysheep::holysheep::holysheep:

:DI think I heard you say that IF I disconnect that damned residential violet fireball wire designed to be hooked up to single phase 240V, then I MIGHT have a snowballs chance in hell of actually building, wiring, installing, testing, and energizing the project and livin' to tell about it, since
Mutt said:
cool man...the rest looks hooked up perfect...just the cap info and plug is the only IFs. everything else is hooked up great :)
Click to expand...

I think we're on the same page. Yes?
 
To be totally honest.
If you run the 120v to a regular old plug...hell I've cut an extension chord to get one LOL.
Put the 120v to hot on the plug, put the white to common on the plug, plug it in and you will have light :)
one leg on the cap goes from cap wire on the primary, the other leg goes to common. Thats what the ballast diagram sticker ON the ballast shows. Can have thousand other sheets of paper, the sticker on it is how that ballast was made and the best bet to wiring.

your not gaining anything by wiring it up for 220v.
hell your computer is running more juice then this ballast.
 
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