Ring culture, soilless, air-potting problems questions..

Medicanna

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Been banging my head here (some of you may remember me as "Polyploidal" LED Mandala fan), 'coz I was EVICTED (yeah), I've had to change everything and start again (even lost hand-made canvass wardrobe conversion -mylar and black-denim/orig. canvass three-ply pocketed raised base tent -you could hear it breathing-). So....trying soilless now NIGHTMARE..I went Arthur Bowers "Ring-Culture" (I can't find any references -of any use-, online to MJ grown with these -bad start-), with 50% bio-char potting mix.

That stuff DRIES OUT man watch out (not helped by the evaporation through the ring pots -which also mold given a fraction of a chance-, which prompted me to improve air-flow and "uncrowd" my cupboard 'coz they got "wilt" -only cured by "Kukulus" which I bought for outdoor mite probs-)!
Now the ring-pots will not wick water up from the soilless like they should (?), is it the bio-char or am I doing something else wrong (I have simply placed ring-culture pots on top of mix bags to let them self root -as with toms-)?
 

Rosebud

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Welcome back. I know nothing about what your doing but others will be by to help. Again, welcome back.
 
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I am curious why you would pick some obscure soilless method that you can find no reference of its use in cannabis growing? I actually could find no information at all on a "method" of growing--just those bottomless pots. No where did I find anything that says they are meant for soilless grows--in fact quite the contrary--they look to be meant for soil grows where you might need to leave the plant for a while as a watering aid: "J Arthur Bowers Ring Culture Pots are Ideal for growing where it is difficult to keep plants adequately watered such as in hot weather and during holidays. Use between March and June."

I think you may have chosen the wrong medium for the "Ring Culture Pots" or chosen the wrong watering method for a soilless grow. From anything I can find, the 2 are not compatible.
 

zem

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Been banging my head here (some of you may remember me as "Polyploidal" LED Mandala fan), 'coz I was EVICTED (yeah), I've had to change everything and start again (even lost hand-made canvass wardrobe conversion -mylar and black-denim/orig. canvass three-ply pocketed raised base tent -you could hear it breathing-). So....trying soilless now NIGHTMARE..I went Arthur Bowers "Ring-Culture" (I can't find any references -of any use-, online to MJ grown with these -bad start-), with 50% bio-char potting mix.

That stuff DRIES OUT man watch out (not helped by the evaporation through the ring pots -which also mold given a fraction of a chance-, which prompted me to improve air-flow and "uncrowd" my cupboard 'coz they got "wilt" -only cured by "Kukulus" which I bought for outdoor mite probs-)!
Now the ring-pots will not wick water up from the soilless like they should (?), is it the bio-char or am I doing something else wrong (I have simply placed ring-culture pots on top of mix bags to let them self root -as with toms-)?
this sounds like a rap song to me :afroweed:
 

Medicanna

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Ah yeah "ring-culture" pots are placed on a mixture of gravel and sand, that is the Arthur Bower's method but they are certainly useless indoors as they absorb moisture and promote mold (nearly killed the lot!), however the question as to whether MJ can be cultivted that way remains (I have studied a bit of veg culture), they did not seem to "wick". I was trying to prevent transplantation shock whilst maxing out on space. I just asked "Monster Grows" (re: grow-bags etc.), the same question; "I can't just place my new aero-pots on top of the soil-less then?" I guess tomatos just draw a lot more water...
 

Medicanna

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P.S Bought two high wattage (30 & 40w), white cree LED spots to balance out my two UFOs and pair of glow-panels, they're like Zeppelins! Spent less that £35 quid, no-shipping from China and they arrived (in one piece), within a fortnight!
 

Medicanna

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Also check out high wattage LED "Cobs" and other "Golon" lights.

(Nb.Ask Golon about 20-60w Street Lamp bulbs -same design as above-)

http://www.golonledlight.com/category-26.html



[ame]http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00JGNNOUU/ref=pe_385721_37986871_TE_item[/ame]

P.S Shade optional as fitting by customer.
 

Medicanna

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Fishermans Style Black Outdoor Security IP44 Rated Hanging Lantern
by MiniSun
1 customer review
Price: £17.99
In stock.
Dispatched from and sold by The Light Factory.

Traditional Outdoor Pendant Hanging Lantern in a Black Finish - IP44 Rated
Durable Weather Resistant Resin Construction with Clear Shade
Measurements: Height (inc. Chain Suspension) 836mm x Diameter 217mm
1 x 60w ES E27 Bulb is Required - NOT Supplied
Ref number - 17993
 

Medicanna

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£26.99 for one 30w & one 40w Cree white LED Spotlight (no shipping!)? Mine arrived in nine days!
 

JustAnotherAntMarching

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that light in post #8 looks like it should be outside of a house....???? seems like your trying to remake the wheel for some reason....

why not just use some proper lights and a method that's proven??
 

Medicanna

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LEDs ARE the future (all cultural practices should be adapted to the pursuit of sustainable horticulture), the outside fitting has infact proven to be ideal although I have replaced the soft resin chain with a longer stainless one so that I can get the light "over the canopy" from seed to bud. I cannot afford to upgrade the LEDS I've got (and doubt I am the only one), but with the 30-40w Crees I get significant extra lumens and the reassurance of providing the entire PAR for my small scale grow. Pictures to follow once new camera and software sorted (don't hold your breaths though).
Thanks for the advice on soilless but as a soil-head until now I'm sticking with soil for a slightly unconventional bag grow (two 30-50l grow-bags -99p store!-, taped around to give shape and stature in large round trays), with tube inserted (from "passive-hydro" single pots from Haskins), in centre for feeding (this has virtually maxed-out the soil-space for the chamber). Coincidentally my Bio-Green thermostated heat mat fits the space exactly (heat from the base in the Winter -and during propagation-, NOT heat at the "control centre" of the plant's hormonal sensor -the growing tip-, but gently and thoroughly throughout the roots). I have fittings for a 200w frost protector (Chinese solid-state very nice -B&Q used to sell them-), should the air-temperature really fall in the Winter (don't heat roots to heat the air folks, use a soil thermometer and keep the soil at the correct temp.)
 
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I will quote PJ here: "Good LEDs are not cheap and cheap LEDs are not good"

He is our LED guru. You might want to shoot him a PM before you buy any LEDs. The reason that I do not have an LED is because I cannot afford a good one right now.
 

Medicanna

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I've already got my LEDs, I started out with 45w "GlowPanels" with U.S plugs and used them with 250HID with excellent results. My LED set-up is not cheap two Prakasa UFOs 90w each (one is triple the other 7 spectrum -£80-£90 each-), and one Cree (Good deal £15 plus fittings), thats £175 worth and 210-220w LED in a very small space with no PAR issues (other Cree to use with Glow Panels for vegging -might "double-up" there & put a 50w in with the UFOs eventually-).
 

Medicanna

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Deals done, headed that way to be more sustainable now I'm using 220w in 40/70cm chamber! Mandala Hashberry slow to germ but coming up now found they were a bit "fussy" before (having done Speed Queen, Safari Mix and a few others). My two "Cobra" reg. autos. were "out-of-the-gate" lika a storm. Cree do a 60w (those ARE good lights guys I observed a visible reponse and increase in vitality when I first put the bulb in -even though then the fitting was in the ceiling of the chamber-). I'm thinking of using a 60w in the flowering chamber and then putting the 30 & 40w Crees in series in the veg. chamber -not yet appointed-, with the two 45w "Glow-Panels").
Soil 30% "Fertile Fibre", 30% "Grow-Char Bio-Char", 30% Westand's Peat Free with "nutes" and 10% Peat Free "recycled" Soil-Conditioner (great stuff you can use throughout -like to shred it more though-, 99p from 99p Shop!), dried ecklonia and "AfterPlant" Rootgrowtm mycorrhizal fungi. I don't usually feed my plants in soil indoors (Mandala recommendation). I also use "Super Kukulus" (www.ph-ec.com), and am hoping that it will be useful when ensuring the health of the big budded "Hashberries". Infact it will be my first full indoor grow using "Super K" so I'll let you know how I get on (excellent results against spider mite outdoors!).
 

zem

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Deals done, headed that way to be more sustainable now I'm using 220w in 40/70cm chamber! Mandala Hashberry slow to germ but coming up now found they were a bit "fussy" before (having done Speed Queen, Safari Mix and a few others). My two "Cobra" reg. autos. were "out-of-the-gate" lika a storm. Cree do a 60w (those ARE good lights guys I observed a visible reponse and increase in vitality when I first put the bulb in -even though then the fitting was in the ceiling of the chamber-). I'm thinking of using a 60w in the flowering chamber and then putting the 30 & 40w Crees in series in the veg. chamber -not yet appointed-, with the two 45w "Glow-Panels").
Soil 30% "Fertile Fibre", 30% "Grow-Char Bio-Char", 30% Westand's Peat Free with "nutes" and 10% Peat Free "recycled" Soil-Conditioner (great stuff you can use throughout -like to shred it more though-, 99p from 99p Shop!), dried ecklonia and "AfterPlant" Rootgrowtm mycorrhizal fungi. I don't usually feed my plants in soil indoors (Mandala recommendation). I also use "Super Kukulus" (www.ph-ec.com), and am hoping that it will be useful when ensuring the health of the big budded "Hashberries". Infact it will be my first full indoor grow using "Super K" so I'll let you know how I get on (excellent results against spider mite outdoors!).
I would love to try a small space like that with 150w hps, one day i will do it. the rest is gibberish to me hydro grower lol
 

Medicanna

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I will quote PJ here: "Good LEDs are not cheap and cheap LEDs are not good"

He is our LED guru. You might want to shoot him a PM before you buy any LEDs. The reason that I do not have an LED is because I cannot afford a good one right now.

You are right though...look how much it has cost me to cover just over 0.25m2! Research is research though (& I'm pleased to be able to report "visible improvement in vitality" as it confirms that the PAR available to the plants is now correct), I may go all white panels eventually OR just build up my Big Cree collection and purpose build for them!
 
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