shorten photoperiod = induce swelling/mature faster??

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saycheese

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i read somewhere online that a guy gave 24/0 light then initiated flowering with 12/12. all normal....but

he suggested that when there are enough pistils, switching to 11/13 or even 10/14 (on/off) would encourage all pistils to swell, it sounded like this might speed up the process possibly making the plant think its closer to the end of its outdoor flowering period

i notice on 12/12 white pistils are still creeping through even two weeks before the chop. does this mean the plants are stuck in august?

if the light was reduced in this way would i have bigger calyx's? would they spend more time swelling and less time firin new pistils? or would they actually finish when the bloody seed company say they will?

id like some advice if anyones got that i want to try it on my current kids.:confused:
 
i wouldnt go with what the seed company say ,,its just a guideline ,,its all about the trichs ,,not pistills ,,,,ive had plants where the trichs are very milky white with amber trichs and plants that have brown almost dead looking pistills with clear trichs

as for the lighting ,,,i heard of people going 10/14 ,,,but ive never tried it ,,,,
12/12 seems to be the proven formula ,,and works fine for me :D
If you do decide to try it ,,be sure to do a journal and let us all know how you got on ,,,:peace:
 
Doesn't seem to make sense. If a plant needs light to grow, how could increasing the dark periods and shortening the light periods cause more growth? Seems like the opposite would be the case, hence the development of autoflowering strains.

Note for the future....If you are unsure of whether or not something is true and you decide to ask about it here, starting your post with "I read somewhere online..." pretty much gives you your answer :)

you can't trust anything you read online....except what I write.....I never lie.
 
even tho the main stream is 12/12
i have recently read an interesting article in SKUNK mag
if a plant outside had to wait untill 12/12 it wouldnt start flowering untill sept 21 but in reality most are finished shortly after this
so for a varieties that finish at end of sept started flowering 55-60 day before, around august 1
in san francisco on aug 1 sunrise @ 5:14 and sets @ 19:18 with 15 min of red light at dawn and dusk. leaving 9 hours and 40 min of dark
so a plant can recieve only 10 hours of darkness and 14 of light giving it 17% more energy used to produce sugars used for more and faster growth.



thoughts anyone???
i like it i would like to try it
but im worried with less darkness the buds might be a little less dense am i wrong?
 
saycheese said:
i read somewhere online that a guy gave 24/0 light then initiated flowering with 12/12. all normal....but

he suggested that when there are enough pistils, switching to 11/13 or even 10/14 (on/off) would encourage all pistils to swell, it sounded like this might speed up the process possibly making the plant think its closer to the end of its outdoor flowering period

i notice on 12/12 white pistils are still creeping through even two weeks before the chop. does this mean the plants are stuck in august?

if the light was reduced in this way would i have bigger calyx's? would they spend more time swelling and less time firin new pistils? or would they actually finish when the bloody seed company say they will?

id like some advice if anyones got that i want to try it on my current kids.:confused:

Some of my favorite threads start out "I read somewhere...".

I can pretty much guarantee that people here and on other sites like this have experimented with a variety of different flowering light cycles trying to shorten flowering time and increase yield. If there was something out there that worked better than 12/12, trust me, we would be have heard of it and we would be doing it.

Growing indoor cannot be compared to inside growing and I don't think that you should even try to. It is kind of like comparing apples and oranges.

In general, I have found that plants usually take a bit longer than the breeder's estimates. This is not always the case, however. The correct harvest time can only be determined by microscopic examination of the trichs.
 
ok. Thankr. Ive stuck to 12/12 for 3yrs no worries, instead of changing the length of the photoperiod , i step down the light intensity for the final week (2 plain waterings) , raising my hps eventually swapping for red cfl, then darkness 48hr.
 
according to studies, nearlly "twice" as much thc is produced under 12 hours of light than under 10
 
The Hemp Goddess said:
Some of my favorite threads start out "I read somewhere...".



Growing indoor cannot be compared to inside growing and I don't think that you should even try to. It is kind of like comparing apples and oranges.

Exactly. You're doing a fully different lighting cycle than ol' ma nature offers (24/7) and then think she'll recognize normalcy when you start dialing back to replicate fall....doubtful.
 
im only doin 24 hour on my seedlings cos i know they will die of cold where im at, even if my 6hrs darkness falls during the warmest part of the day.(which it will)
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They bin under 24hr for 3days.
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Trust me if i had a heater/thermostat i really would hav them on 18/6 i want as natural as possible just with the maximum air ive just got this thing about air in the rootzone as u may have noticed but apart from this recent interest ive always bin into organics, never used chem ferts never done hydro im non-profit if anyones wondering.
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Would my high perlite and terra mix, watered daily, be such a terrible home for microlife .
Does anyone do hydro with organics? Is this impossible?
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I know im a bit off topic, but ive obviously been medicating.
I medicate a lot.
Love that term
'medicate' lol
 
Why would you think that 18/6 is more natural than 24/7--you find neither in nature unless you are really quite far north in the summer (in the northern hemisphere)? When we grow indoors, we are NOT trying to duplicate outdoor growing. We are taking what we know about the plant and optimizing our conditions. Marijuana will grow all the time the lights are on. An 18/6 light schedule just lengthens the vegging time and/or causes stretch. As far as flowering, Clarke has shown us that twice as much THC can be produced under a 12/12 flowering schedule than a 10/14. Controlling the environment with optimum conditions will get you far more than trying to mimic mother nature.

I have not had any luck with organic nutes and DWC, but I am going to look into Botanicare.
 
ok so 24hrs not a major problem for root growth?
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I read that roots grow slower top grows more under 24hrs?
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I use rhizotonic tho which i suppose is good for roots .
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My babes will have to put up with it until the daytime temp round my way is 18degrees,
 
The only time I use anything other then 24-0 for veg is late spring through summer when the weather warms and the 6 hours of dark come in handy during the hottest part of the days....
 
saycheese said:
ok so 24hrs not a major problem for root growth?
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I read that roots grow slower top grows more under 24hrs?
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I use rhizotonic tho which i suppose is good for roots .
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My babes will have to put up with it until the daytime temp round my way is 18degrees,

do we root clones in the dark?.. ;)
24/0 under flourescents and I'll have roots in 6-10 days. :D
 
thats great news im stickin to 24hrs then i think. Easy.

Has anyone tried 24hrs darkness before switching to 12/12? I think one seed company say to do it..
 
There was a thread about benifits of a dark period at the end of bloom and the end of veg and the verdict was: Darkness never helps anything!!!
 
so how else would you force finish if u were runnin over ur time schedule?
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i thought the dark stimulated the plant to expend its remaining energy in a futile attempt to catch pollen and seed before senescence? And lets the chlorophyll break down?
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I have left plants to dry in the dark without chopping for two months, plucking a bud when i wanted a smoke, it got better over time even before curing it was acquiring a hashy taste, swelling trichs and by the time i cut the naked sticks down even the leaves were tasting good- 70percent leaf. **** weed, until after the darkness, it def improved. Thats just my 2 cents. Based on my own exp i wud do it again, even if i just watch the other uaricles to b if they were re7msible for the imsovement.
 
*watch the other variables* sorry. Im using old mobile fone with java only.
 
..If you aren't "harvesting, drying AND curing".. you're missing out tremendously. "Proper" drying and curing not only increases the potency, but is paramount to flavor..."IMO/E"
 
I would spend more time on drying and curing and less time messing with light cycles.:hubba:
 
only the once did i not dry and cure properly, im just sayin it was so **** i thought id test the theory of a long dark finish. When i went back and started smokin it it was really nice, still leafy, but nice. Even without cure. I left 10'' fan blowin at em, they may have undergone a kind of drying so to speak.
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I always dry and cure now and i know full well the benefit trust me. I even if i have to resort to a street purchase i put in my jar no commercial growers cure where im from. Usually its wet too if its any good cos the demand is skyhigh and muppits like me will still part with cash.
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