Please Help My leaves are turning brown.

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sid

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Hi Thanks in advance for any input I've researched plenty but im stuck.
Im into an experemental grow from bag seed. Paper towel to jiffy pot to 2pt. FF ocean, 2pt pearlite with a little fish emulsion for good measure. Watering when 3in deep is dry + grow big every 3 waterings. Good draining medium so watering almost daily.They have grown fairly well with no problems until now except one who got oversprayed with bleach but is coming back strong.
Here is the tricky part. I started late this year (June 19th I germinated 26th jiffy pot July 10th to 2 1/2 gal. pots)but i want to grow out door so i was trying some light manipulation to get them to veg for a while before i put them out side to bud. So under So. Cal sunlight in a hot part of my property full day exposure to sunlight at night I bring them in under a flouro chamber i set up in my Mylar coated 6ft by 6ft by 6ft attic teepee grow room. It has 6 100 watt cfls on the floor pointing up the sides, 2 4bulb ballasts one hanging on each side of the room and an overhead shop light with 2 bulbs they are surrounded by light of the correct spec for veg about 2-4 inches from the growing tips. My grow room is extreemly well ventalated with 2 inline 270 cfm 6in fresh air intake fans one to the floor and one to a 1000 watt MH/HPS hood. Pulling off the other end of the hood is a 435 cfm inline and a fourth inline can fan 33 carbon filter and 170 cfm fan combo exhausting the room. one tower fan with the intake placed next to the intake vent and a ocillating canopy fan. perfect temps and 46% humidity. My plan was to continue this regime of brining them in every night till Aug. 29th when the natural light was exactly 12/12 and putting them out side permanently to sex and flower. Ive never done this so im not sure how it will turn out but the plants look like they are doing well untill this last week when the leaves started to get brownish red spots on the older leaves. yes I changed a few things that may have caused it but im not sure which it was. first i changed the supplementary lighting at night i moved the fouros slightly to the side and turned on the MH too cause i thought they were ready and i was beeing greedy in terms of tryin to get size for yield, temps were at 77 -86 for about 5 days of this 1000w 2ft from tops no discomfort when hand tested for heat. (This is why i grow outside at this time of year its impossible to keep the attic cool enough without air cond. in this heat till fall) but i thought the plants could stand it for a few hrs. cause theyve been in the 90 deg sun all day since seedling. i also added big bloom to the Grow Big mix once in that same 5 days. I use muni water from the hose and my soil ph is around 6.7.
Since the last 2 days I flushed the plants with 5gal of water each and stopped using the MH and any nutes.
They look ok in new growth but im worried about the spots and not sure if the plant will get better or worse.
I have it narrowed down but i could use some help.
Either its heat stress/light burn but its the leaves that are not directly on top that are damaged so not too sure.
or nute burn from the Big Bloom??
or some type of deficienty MG or Potassium, at least from what i read???
If its heat or nute burn the light change and the flush should help but if the soil is locked from the muni water like ive read about than im afraid it may just get worse from the flush. I would like to put the MH on for the last two weeks for size if its not heat too. ive also read the FF nutes unlock the soil and will cure deficientcy but i dont want to ad more if its burning them????????
So you see im in a catch 22 and need an expert since im new to this..
Please help. I know this is long but i didnt want to leave anything out.
Thanks.

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sid said:
Watering when 3in deep is dry + grow big every 3 waterings.
Hi sid! Welcome to MP.

I always suggest to everyone who grows in dirt with containers, to reduce their nutrients to an amount that can be applied with every watering.

If you use the same amount of nutrient you are now, in total, but divide it into all 3 waterings, I think it will eliminate the nutrient burn I see on your plants.

The plant absorbs the nutrients you give it in the strength you give. The current strength you're giving them is too strong. It's causing a burn.

However, one third that strength, given with each watering should eliminate that problem.

To exaggerate the problem, think if you used a nutrient strength that was 60 times that strong, but only applied it every 90 days. The first application would undoubtedly kill your plants real fast.

Plants don't know how to ration nutrients over time. They take up whatever is given to them in it's full strength as given.

It's much better to use a more mild nutrient with every watering, than using it the way you are currently.

It sounds like you've resolved the problem for now, and you should be able to start the lessened amount of nutrient with your next watering.

Watch the new growth closely for a few days. If you see ANY browning of the leaf tips or edges, then just cut your nutrient strength in half and keep watching.

Good luck! Let us know how it works for you.
 
Hey thanks for the fast reply. I thought it was a nute burn but are you pretty sure its not heat burn? i was wondering (probably much experience) what gives it away. just so I can tell the difference in the future. Also do you think this timing will produce bud outside if i put them in the ground permanently in the end of August? Thanks very much for your kind oppinion.:confused:
 
They dont look Bad..one does look like Nitro burn ( burnt tips and edges) may wanna back off the "N" a bit..another looks as thos "MG" dif..but not sure on that pic..i use 1 TBL spoon epson salt to PH Gallon water for that one...Heat stress will look as though they underwatered..wilty and druppy..(bad choice of words) Not sure where in world you live but if ya can putt them in ground i would..those black pots get hot in the sun..or cover with white papper or something..Hope this helps..take care and be safe:bolt::bong:
 
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sid said:
Hey thanks for the fast reply. I thought it was a nute burn but are you pretty sure its not heat burn? i was wondering (probably much experience) what gives it away. just so I can tell the difference in the future. Also do you think this timing will produce bud outside if i put them in the ground permanently in the end of August? Thanks very much for your kind opinion.:confused:
You're very welcome, sid. All of us here on MP try to help each other.

As "4U" said, heat stress generally appears as "Fatigue" over-all on the plant. If it becomes a consistent problem, it can lead to severe damage to the leaves (drying, cracking, browning), but that would be *after* the over-all drooping and limpness of the plant.

The problem that is evident on some of the leaves of your plant is consistent with an overage of Nitrogen. As I said in my earlier post, I believe that if you divide the amount of nutrients you've been applying each third day, into equal amounts on each of those three days, that your problem will go away.

If you have about 10 weeks left prior to ground temperatures below 50F, then you have time to flower your plants and have them complete the flowering process.
 
Hey thanks alot for the input i think both of you know whats up, I was using GB moderately all along then last week i bought some BB and TB in anticipation for flowering. Then next feed i used BB and GB together with a little more GB than normal and boom there was browning with in 2 days. same time as the light change so i got confused but i guess you know so i followed your suggestion. First watering today after flush 3 days ago with 1/3 usual GB and within 2 hrs noticeable difference with all the leaves reaching for the sky.
Im a little aprehensive about using the BB now. Do you guys know how to or use these products

I live in n. costal San Diego its between 70-90 max but if there is no wind you have high desert baking heat then cool at night around 65. They seem to love it outside but i want them to get kinda big before i flower. i was thinking of changing to 5 gal pots today, what do you think. Will i get more size like that??
Real consistent weather around here and the area where i live is most known for its greenhouses and flower fields. Real good climate for this style of horticulture round here. the ground wont reach 50 till late Nov at best.
 
sid said:
Hey thanks a lot for the input i think both of you know whats up, I was using GB moderately all along then last week i bought some BB and TB in anticipation for flowering. Then next feed i used BB and GB together with a little more GB than normal and boom there was browning with in 2 days. same time as the light change so i got confused but i guess you know so i followed your suggestion. First watering today after flush 3 days ago with 1/3 usual GB and within 2 hrs noticeable difference with all the leaves reaching for the sky.
I'm a little apprehensive about using the BB now. Do you guys know how to or use these products

I live in n. coastal San Diego its between 70-90 max but if there is no wind you have high desert baking heat then cool at night around 65. They seem to love it outside but i want them to get kinda big before i flower. i was thinking of changing to 5 gal pots today, what do you think. Will i get more size like that??
Real consistent weather around here and the area where i live is most known for its greenhouses and flower fields. Real good climate for this style of horticulture round here. the ground wont reach 50 till late Nov at best.
The 5 gallon pots are a good idea.

If you're going to have your plants outside, they'll get as large as possible with the amount of year left before they flower. Inside, you can control it. Outside, you're at the mercy of Nature.

With November as your late flower time, you have plenty of time between now and then for your plants to flower completely.

We have lots of members in your area. One of them will probably chime in with actual times for your local.
 
Thanks. heres todays pics they look healthy to me, what do you think?
they are about 20" to 24" right now.

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sid said:
Thanks. heres todays pics they look healthy to me, what do you think?



I think I found a new friend :heart: and yes lots of members here from your area..Im from Seattle..November here is past harvest..lol..Take care and be safe
 
NW climate hasn't been treating my outdoor plant -.-

it was my best clone, put into a harsh situation...in poor quality soil, with mediocre lighting, and I found out the sprinkler system is about 10 inches away and gives it an intense blast every morning

lol it swivels so it gives my clone a hard blast maybe every ten seconds for 2 minutes. It's still living!







Anyways, back on topic:
I dont agree with swapping out/in, it's too irregular. Why dont you just plant those babies in mother earth? :) I'd feed them 10-10-10 salts with secondary nutrients at "regular" doses, just to eliminate the possiblity of burn.

Take 5 gallon buckets, cut the bottoms out, and cut them in half. So you'll create 2 rings out of every bucket.

Stick these rings pretty hard into the dirt, leaving a lip above the dirt. Plant right in the middle of these, and watering will be efficient and a snap!



good luck!
destroyer
 
Thanks for the advice destroyer. The only reason i go in and out is i dont want them to flower just yet i will in 2 weeks though with your bocket technique. put them back under the MH last night after stabilizing the nutes and they look VERY happy.
Let you know how they progress. Heres todays pics.

I know this is another forum but Now im building a 8'l x6'W x 8'h room in my house so temps wont be an issue anymore. any advice on grow area vent and light configuration would be helpfull.
it's where my washer/dryer used to be so there is a solid core door, water, 225v current and a 4" roof vent already in place that i can utilize/modify.
I have plenty of fans and lights (2-6", 2-8", and 3-vortex inlines, cfls t8s, mh and hps balasts and ac hoods) to do whatever i want w/o having to spend any money. Much appreciated

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