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Compost Instructions

Discussion in 'Organic Growing' started by bombbudpuffa, May 3, 2007.

  1. May 3, 2007 #1

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    Sweet Cheeba Chiefa

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    **Found on the net**How do I make compost?
    The simplest and tidiest way to make compost at home is through the use of a home composter.
    The optimum composting process is caused by a combination of four elements:

    · Brown organic materials - such as leaves
    · Green organic materials - such as grass
    · Air
    · Water

    By mixing together green and brown materials, a mix of nitrogen and carbon is produced. Adding air from the atmosphere and moisture from the material itself is a magical mix that will start the composting process. Ultimately compost happens whatever - so don't be too concerned that you may not have the mix exactly right.

    Hints and Tips

    · Placing the composter in the sun will increase the temperature inside the unit, and thus accelerate the composting process.

    · To ensure good circulation within the composter, it is advisable to place a layer of twigs, cut flowers or remains of house plants at the bottom of the unit.

    · Layers of fruit, vegetable and garden waste can then be added, mixed if possible. Do not, however, fill the composter beyond 80% of its capacity.

    · As the composting mass is relatively moist, it will condense, reducing the amount of air in it. Regular poking or stirring with a stick or garden fork will create ventilation channels in the material, helping the composting process.



    What can be composted?

    Most garden waste, such as: Grass cuttings, Hedge clippings, Weeds, Old plants & garden cuttings, Vegetable wastes, Branches & twigs (cut into pieces), Fallen leaves.

    Most kitchen waste, such as: Vegetable & fruit remains, Tea bags & coffee grounds, Crushed egg shells, Fruit waste, Cut flowers & house plant remains, Newspaper.

    What can't be composted?


    Cooked & uncooked meat. Poultry and fish are not recommended. Cat & dog faeces. Things which are not biodegradable - such as plastic and metals. Garden waste which has recently been treated with weed-killer (such as grass cuttings from a recently treated lawn).

    What if I have problems?

    Here are some of the common problems associated with normal composting.

    · Unpleasant odours
    when vegetation decomposes, it is normal for it to smell a bit. If the odour becomes unpleasant, the heap may have become too compacted. To solve this, use a garden fork or stick to lift the layers of composting mass - adding air & hence reducing odours.


    · Compost is very dry
    If the compost appears very dry, simply turn the material with a fork or stick, adding water whilst you do so. Alternatively, leave the composter lid open when it is raining.


    · Compost is wet and slimy
    If this is the case it is likely that too much "green" type waste such as grass cuttings has been added. Mix some "brown" type materials such as newspaper into the composting mass.

     
  2. May 3, 2007 #2

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    OutDoor ExperT

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    good find man i usually use grass cuttings leaves and table scrapes for my compost!!
     
  3. May 6, 2007 #3
    My wife picked up a plastic composting bin at costco for 40 bucks. Its black which helps absorb the heat and speed up the process. I load a couple bags of lawn clippings and my wife bags up some leaves from a friends house. wish we had some trees....oh wait, no i don't! its so much easier just getting a bag full rather than raking a whole yard!

    anyway, works well. Just turn it with a pitchfork twice a month or so.....

    Feed the worms first and compost the leftovers.

    by the way...DO NOT ADD MEAT SCRAPS, OR FECES FROM ANIMALS to composter!!!!!!!
     
  4. May 6, 2007 #4

    newgreenthumb

    newgreenthumb

    newgreenthumb

    Da Bagseedologist!

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    Thanks for the info as I have been looking into building my own compost bin.
     
  5. May 9, 2007 #5

    Opencountry

    Opencountry

    Opencountry

    Banned For Life

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    You should also add 6lbs of Hydrated Lime per 100lbs of Humus
     
  6. May 10, 2007 #6

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

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    yeah i got one of them dose it have a top on it??
     
  7. May 10, 2007 #7

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

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    you found that on my grow journal didnt you??
     
  8. May 10, 2007 #8

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    Sweet Cheeba Chiefa

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    ?!?Uuuuh....no, I found it on ebay,believe it or not:D.
     
  9. May 10, 2007 #9

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

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    lol really i have the same thing in my journal hold on ill find it
     
  10. May 10, 2007 #10

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    Kindbud

    OutDoor ExperT

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    nah its not the same thing its on like the 3 page
     
  11. May 10, 2007 #11

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    bombbudpuffa

    Sweet Cheeba Chiefa

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    Thats a nice find KB!
     
  12. May 15, 2009 #12

    zipflip

    zipflip

    zipflip

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    wat would be a good list of ingredients to throw in a mix for composting into like say one them compost bins thats smaller like size a garbage can or somethin.? i thougt bout just gettin together bunch of things and throwin it all in an just tendin to it on the side for somethin to try out. b
    but my main concern is wat exactly would/could you add to a compostin mix to rot away that would be a good beneficial MJ compost mix?
    i knwo the basic lawnclippings an leaves but i'm sure theres much more to use to make it a primo mix for mj alone....
    i would assume that compost wouldnt be a good mix especially for indoor container growing as you wouldnt have much control over what the nutrient value of the soil would be or if it's too hot etc....
    is this true or is there a way you can just mix certain amounts of certain materials/ingredients , time to compost and rot all that... in order for it to be ok for indoor mj growing?
    any ideas appreciated.
    tehre any at home composters out there that could hook me up wit some composting mix recipes?
    thanks in advance..
     
  13. May 15, 2009 #13

    Mutt

    Mutt

    Mutt

    Just a Dawg

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    Eggshells, raw potato skins, left over vegetables (wash salt off), Mollassas, Few containers of worms, Spent coffe grinds with the filter, newspaper (the reg, not the glossy pages), just to name a few things. even your used fish water if you have gold fish or something. Left over shrimp shells, i can go on. I don't put anything like meat leftovers and such in though. Rotting meat worries me if I'm going to be handling it.
    Whats even better is to pre-blend it...make it like a slurry and pour on...makes the microbes and worms all excited...plus lowers the chance of souring that you get when its large chunks of matter.
    I use compost indoor just fine....few flys n such pop out, but good compost won't be full of critters like you think it would.

    I posted up a link last year in this section "the NPK of stuff" its the NPK of composted materials...helps you adjust the value of your compost pile. I good pile will have it all a great balance of everything. plant will uptake what it needs ;)
     
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  14. May 15, 2009 #14

    zipflip

    zipflip

    zipflip

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    mutt, i saw that post of the npk of things too. but i was just unsure if there was certain particular things accordin to teh npk amounts you wanna keep at certain amounts of like say 2 cups egg shells 4 oranges peelings 3 of this and so on.
    i just wouldnt wanna say overdo a certain part of the compost and end up burnin my plants. or is compost like once its spent its heat as far as rotting then it shouldnt burn ya plants at all?
    dont know if this makes sense or not or if im not understandin somethin for sure or not lol
     
  15. May 16, 2009 #15

    JohninWI

    JohninWI

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    I have a nice compost heap in the back yard. It's made from a concrete-reinforcing wire hoop about 5' across. In addition to the directions above, I found that it makes an excellent way for me to "lose" soil from my basement operation! I layer the working compost with soil from the grow-cabinet bags, and stalks from the harvest. It works very well--and NO leaves or odor to give me away. In about a month or two, I have excellent compost for the inside or ouside garden.

    2 tricks. First, try and chop up materials before you add them. Use a pruning shear, lopper, or hatchet to hack things smaller (CAREFUL of the fingers!). Second, you can speed things up by turning the pile. Mine has a PVC pipe down the middle with 1/2" holes in it for ventiation. When you build the pile, it heats up for a few days then cools off. I test it by dropping a thermometer on a rope down the pipe. When the temp drops below around 90F, I turn the pile over (ie, shovel it from one place to another to mix it all up). It heats again, then you move it again... Google "14 day compost" if you want. My tomatos and peppers LOVE this stuff!

    Anyway, excellent, environmentally important thing to do, wheter you grow the herb or not.
     
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  16. May 16, 2009 #16

    zipflip

    zipflip

    zipflip

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    thanks for the build idea
     
  17. May 18, 2009 #17

    Mutt

    Mutt

    Mutt

    Just a Dawg

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    Hey Zip,
    Give ya an idea....I load my heap up....most would think its "hot" nutrient wise...but really its not at all. Most of those NPK values are benign (sp)
    slow release and such. Its really medium building for me...can't say soil building cuz i don't use any soil just compost from me heap.
    Things to be careful of is like chicken and such really hot. but composted and mixed into a heap with well balanced other organic material you'll find even monitoring PH is gone becuase it will swing on its own...plant will take what it needs. biggest mistake for newb organic growers is....your not feeding the plant your feeding the bugs in the medium they in turn feed the plant....100% opposite of all other types of growing.
    A good well balanced compost medium don't require any nutrient additions for at least a month. I know some don't ever fert...all is based upon there soilmix and no need for teas or ferts...just add water and reuse same soil for next yrs crop.:hubba:
     
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  18. May 18, 2009 #18

    zipflip

    zipflip

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    well for now i'm goin wit my own mix im mixin from different bags of diff things from diff stores i've collected over time now.
    but i am plannin on startin a compost that way it be ready by winter grows at least whe soil etc is next to iposible to get locally here innter lol.
    wat i got to mix for medium is top soil, potting soil, reed sedge peat mix, spaghum peat moss, garden soil, compost/manure mix, sheep manure, perlite, blood meal, bone meal, dolomite lime, and some rocks for bottom of pots for drainage.
    i hope ya dont mind i copy ya post an paste it in a notepad so that i can come bak to it when i get round to makin a compost heap.
    sound corny taht i keep notes on here.? lol im a slow person who cant walk an chew bubblegum at the same time so i kinda have to or i'll lose it lol.
    aint decided on ratio to ratio of mix yet but im a sit an stare at my pile of ingredients later on an try an concocyt a good mix with the knowledge i've acquired over the last week of intensive reserch online and on here etc...
    aint too sure on the sheep manure compost mix bag i got tho. i heard sheep manure burns plants tho. if so maybe my tomatoes will love it outside then mixed in . ?
     
  19. May 20, 2009 #19

    JohninWI

    JohninWI

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    If you really get into composting--and there is no reason you shouldn't, check out "Let it Rot"--THE classic on the subject that you can find at any bookstore or library, or "Compost This Book".

    2 more tricks. If your balance is off to begin with, and this sounds wierd, you can get the heap fired up by adding a small bag of the cheapest dry dog-food you can buy. Another think I can do, especially in the fall when I have mostly browns (ie, few green materials) I water the pile every foot or so with a pretty strong 20-0-0. In any case, I'm always amazed at how fast the bacteria take off and heat up the whole pile!
     
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