I'ma Joker Midnight Toker
Drive fast, take chances
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2008
- Messages
- 457
- Reaction score
- 361
I know, it's like waiting for your friend to come over with some killer bud he promised and he's actually out tagging some date...
U
umbra
Guest
that was funny. only cuz its true
T
That crazy vancouver guy
Guest
where's the beef???... I mean hash??? lol
T
the widowmaker
Guest
Will be coming soon, i've had a busy few days and i've been thinking about images and how i want to lay things out here and what not.
I'll probably make some tomorrow.
I'll probably make some tomorrow.
I'ma Joker Midnight Toker
Drive fast, take chances
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2008
- Messages
- 457
- Reaction score
- 361
Sorry, I couldn't wait any longer 
I found this...
Hash Oil
How To Make Hash Oil From Marijuana
Hash oil is the most potent form of cannabis available. If you are a marijuana or hashish smoker, you have probably smoked hash oil before. If not, you've heard how strong it is compared to marijuana.
Until recently obtaining hash oil has been difficult, and actually making hash oil has been the domain of chemists and other people who were familiar with extracting psychoactive compounds from cannabis plant material.
For a visual demonstration of the procedure for making honey oil described on this page, visit YouTube and do a search for how to make hash oil. There are several videos that show the process.
How To Make Honey Oil From Marijuana
The butane extraction method of making hash oil is based on supercritical fluid extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase.
Butane and carbon dioxide (perhaps other solvent/gas combinations with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber honey oil and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter.
The most important thing to remember is to work outdoors away from people, animals and anything else that might catch fire or be injured if the butane comes into contact with any ignition source. Butane is highly flammable, work away from anything that might produce a spark. Make sure you are the only victim, if anything goes wrong.
Materials Needed:
Butane, 300 grams per ounce of marijuana
Coffee filter
Marijuana, 7 grams to 28 grams
Pipe, 1.75 inch outer diameter about 12 inches long
Two end caps for the pipe
Pyrex baking dish
Vials or small container to store hash oil
Isopropyl alcohol (optional)
Butane for refilling lighters can be purchased at smoke shops. Butane for camping stoves can be purchased at camping supply stores. Either type is suitable for making hash oil. If you have any problem locating a supply for butane you can find some by searching through amazonhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=freecomputersoft&l=ur2&o=1 or ebay.
You will need 300 grams (about 10.5 ounces by weight) of butane for each ounce of marijuana you intend to process. If you are going to process less than an ounce, it is recommended that you still use 300 grams of butane.
You are trying to extract the oil from the marijuana. Coffee filter is needed as a filter in one end of the pipe to prevent marijuana from escaping into the hash oil, as it exits the pipe.
The amount of marijuana can vary from 7 grams (1/4 ounce) to 28 grams (1 ounce). I always use an ounce, but you may want to attempt a smaller amount on your first try. If you plan on processing more than an ounce of marijuana, do it an ounce at a time.
Shade leaves and shake will produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this method (so if you grow, save the leaves you trim off your plants). You can also extract potent hash oil from bad tasting marijuana too. But bear in mind, a better grade of marijuana will produce a larger yield of hash oil.
I usually use bud from good marijuana to produce hash oil. The estimated THC content of the marijuana has varied from about 8%-12% THC. Not super potent but a fairly good grade. The return is about 4-5 grams of hash oil per ounce of marijuana. An ounce of shade leaves or shake will yield about 1-3 grams of hash oil.
The pipe you utilize should be about 1 foot (12 inches) long with a 1.75 (one and three-quarter) inch outer diameter (o.d.). Threaded pipe is not necessary, get end caps designed for the 1.75 inch outer diameter pipe you are working with and they will fit snugly over the ends. Some people prefer plastic or metal pipe because PVC might release chemicals when exposed to butane.
Metal pipe is by far the worst, it can easily create a spark that would be disastrous. There is a product called the honey bee extractor available for the purpose of making hash oil from marijuana. The manufacturer says it is made of space age plastic that does not release chemicals when exposed to butane. I've tried it, and it works, but the price is about $50 (US funds).
Butane is very cold, a pyrex baking dish is recommended for this procedure because it is made to withstand extreme temperatures that would break most other types of materials. I purchased a set of two pyrex baking dishes exclusively for making hash oil.
One of them measures 11 inches by 7 inches by 1.5 inches. The other is 13 inches by 9 inches by 2 inches. It is best to stick with a container somewhere near these sizes or larger, rather than smaller. This is to ensure that no hash oil is lost because the container was too small and some splashed up and over the side.
Vials with screw caps are a good means of storing hash oil. The size you get will depend on the amount of oil you plan on producing. But in general, a larger vial is easier to work with. 1 ounce vials with screw tops are a good choice but some people like them as small as 1-5 grams.
A 1 ounce vial is good if you are going to dissolve the hash oil you produce with isopropyl alcohol. After the oil in the pyrex dishes has been mixed with isopropyl alcohol, it can be poured into the vials and the alcohol will evaporate. This step is an optional step described below.
Method:
1) In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.
2) In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a pepper shaker). The honey oil will be collected from these holes.
3) After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration (to keep plant material from exiting with the oil), put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.
4) Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder with an herb grinder, or by some other method. You want it filled, but not packed down. Fill the pipe with 7 grams (1/4 ounce) to 28 grams (1 ounce) of marijuana.
5) Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.
6) Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly carried away.
6a) Hold the pipe (single hole facing up) over the pyrex baking dish. Position the bottom end of the pipe about 1-2 inches over the pyrex dish to eliminate splatter loss.
7) Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top hole. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster, since you have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.
I found this...Hash Oil
How To Make Hash Oil From Marijuana
Hash oil is the most potent form of cannabis available. If you are a marijuana or hashish smoker, you have probably smoked hash oil before. If not, you've heard how strong it is compared to marijuana.
Until recently obtaining hash oil has been difficult, and actually making hash oil has been the domain of chemists and other people who were familiar with extracting psychoactive compounds from cannabis plant material.
For a visual demonstration of the procedure for making honey oil described on this page, visit YouTube and do a search for how to make hash oil. There are several videos that show the process.
How To Make Honey Oil From Marijuana
The butane extraction method of making hash oil is based on supercritical fluid extraction. It uses totally over-the-counter butane gas as the extraction solvent, and requires nothing even remotely suspicious or difficult to purchase.
Butane and carbon dioxide (perhaps other solvent/gas combinations with similar ultra-low-boiling properties) selectively solvate the desirable fraction(s) of cannabis oils, pulling out only a beautiful amber honey oil and leaving the undesirable vegetative oils, waxes, chlorophyll, etc. behind in the plant matter.
The most important thing to remember is to work outdoors away from people, animals and anything else that might catch fire or be injured if the butane comes into contact with any ignition source. Butane is highly flammable, work away from anything that might produce a spark. Make sure you are the only victim, if anything goes wrong.
Materials Needed:
Butane, 300 grams per ounce of marijuana
Coffee filter
Marijuana, 7 grams to 28 grams
Pipe, 1.75 inch outer diameter about 12 inches long
Two end caps for the pipe
Pyrex baking dish
Vials or small container to store hash oil
Isopropyl alcohol (optional)
Butane for refilling lighters can be purchased at smoke shops. Butane for camping stoves can be purchased at camping supply stores. Either type is suitable for making hash oil. If you have any problem locating a supply for butane you can find some by searching through amazonhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=freecomputersoft&l=ur2&o=1 or ebay.
You will need 300 grams (about 10.5 ounces by weight) of butane for each ounce of marijuana you intend to process. If you are going to process less than an ounce, it is recommended that you still use 300 grams of butane.
You are trying to extract the oil from the marijuana. Coffee filter is needed as a filter in one end of the pipe to prevent marijuana from escaping into the hash oil, as it exits the pipe.
The amount of marijuana can vary from 7 grams (1/4 ounce) to 28 grams (1 ounce). I always use an ounce, but you may want to attempt a smaller amount on your first try. If you plan on processing more than an ounce of marijuana, do it an ounce at a time.
Shade leaves and shake will produce a wonderfully clean and potent gold oil with this method (so if you grow, save the leaves you trim off your plants). You can also extract potent hash oil from bad tasting marijuana too. But bear in mind, a better grade of marijuana will produce a larger yield of hash oil.
I usually use bud from good marijuana to produce hash oil. The estimated THC content of the marijuana has varied from about 8%-12% THC. Not super potent but a fairly good grade. The return is about 4-5 grams of hash oil per ounce of marijuana. An ounce of shade leaves or shake will yield about 1-3 grams of hash oil.
The pipe you utilize should be about 1 foot (12 inches) long with a 1.75 (one and three-quarter) inch outer diameter (o.d.). Threaded pipe is not necessary, get end caps designed for the 1.75 inch outer diameter pipe you are working with and they will fit snugly over the ends. Some people prefer plastic or metal pipe because PVC might release chemicals when exposed to butane.
Metal pipe is by far the worst, it can easily create a spark that would be disastrous. There is a product called the honey bee extractor available for the purpose of making hash oil from marijuana. The manufacturer says it is made of space age plastic that does not release chemicals when exposed to butane. I've tried it, and it works, but the price is about $50 (US funds).
Butane is very cold, a pyrex baking dish is recommended for this procedure because it is made to withstand extreme temperatures that would break most other types of materials. I purchased a set of two pyrex baking dishes exclusively for making hash oil.
One of them measures 11 inches by 7 inches by 1.5 inches. The other is 13 inches by 9 inches by 2 inches. It is best to stick with a container somewhere near these sizes or larger, rather than smaller. This is to ensure that no hash oil is lost because the container was too small and some splashed up and over the side.
Vials with screw caps are a good means of storing hash oil. The size you get will depend on the amount of oil you plan on producing. But in general, a larger vial is easier to work with. 1 ounce vials with screw tops are a good choice but some people like them as small as 1-5 grams.
A 1 ounce vial is good if you are going to dissolve the hash oil you produce with isopropyl alcohol. After the oil in the pyrex dishes has been mixed with isopropyl alcohol, it can be poured into the vials and the alcohol will evaporate. This step is an optional step described below.
Method:
1) In one of the PVC end caps, drill a single small hole in the center. This hole should be correctly sized to snugly receive the little outlet nozzle of your butane can.
2) In the other end cap, drill a group of 5 or 6 small holes clustered in the center (like a pepper shaker). The honey oil will be collected from these holes.
3) After putting a piece of paper towel or coffee filter inside it for filtration (to keep plant material from exiting with the oil), put the end cap with several holes on one end of the pipe. Push it on there real tight. This is the bottom.
4) Fill the pipe up with plant matter that has been pulverized into a coarse powder with an herb grinder, or by some other method. You want it filled, but not packed down. Fill the pipe with 7 grams (1/4 ounce) to 28 grams (1 ounce) of marijuana.
5) Place the top end cap on the pipe. Again, push it on as securely as you can by hand.
6) Find a location outdoors with a decent breeze. You want these butane fumes to be quickly carried away.
6a) Hold the pipe (single hole facing up) over the pyrex baking dish. Position the bottom end of the pipe about 1-2 inches over the pyrex dish to eliminate splatter loss.
7) Turn the butane gas can upside down and dispense the gas into the pipe via the single top hole. Be brave, swift, and careful. A spark at this moment would spell disaster, since you have basically created an incendiary explosive device that is leaking.
I'ma Joker Midnight Toker
Drive fast, take chances
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2008
- Messages
- 457
- Reaction score
- 361
8) The butane moves down the pipe, extracting the cannabis oil as it goes. When it gets to the bottom, it begins to drain into the receiving vessel. Notice the pale yellow-green-gold hue of the extract.
After a few minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole).
When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, no smoking, unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at ambient temperature.
The pyrex vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up by holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm water.
Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point. Again, do this outdoors with a nice breeze!
You may have to repeat the process several times if you have a lot of marijuana to process but the result is worth the effort. When more than 3-4 ounces of marijuana is being converted to oil, it is best to have 2 pyrex dishes and alternate the dish you extract into.
When you are finished, you can simply let the butane evaporate. It takes a minimum of 20 minutes for the butane to evaporate. Use a pyrex vessel with a flat bottom if you choose this method.
The honey oil will be fairly cohesive and can be scraped off and collected with a razor blade and stored, after the butane has fully evaporated.
An alternate method is to let all of the butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher), and then pour the mixture into a vial (or some other type of small container) and let it sit out for a day or more to allow the alcohol to evaporate.
Isopropyl alcohol is not as flammable as butane but fumes can ignite when exposed to a spark or flame, so be sure store it in an area that has some ventilation while the isopropyl alcohol evaporates. After evaporation, put the screw cap on the vial and store it in a cool dark area.
Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane.
I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained.
But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all super boiled out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop the vial.
I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or 99% isopropyl alcohol (also isopropanol and sold as rubbing alcohol), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropyl alcohol.
The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly pure and potent. I remember well some of the prime honey oil hash oils that hit the market in the late 1970s, and this stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any of them.
It's amazing how this method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the weed. But that's exactly what it does. The color of the oil isn't as see-through as traditional honey oil but it is just as potent.
Because it is so fresh, it may be even more potent than any oil you may have tried before. Hash oil will degrade in less than a year. Only make as much as you will consume in a few months.
Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than traditional hash oils. The traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in, getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it to drip off) still works with this stuff.
However, it seems you have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state as quickly or in the same manner. It can easily be burned up on your needle if you are used to hash oil that is produced using other solvents. So be careful.
I also observed that unlike honey oil derived from traditional methods, this product is not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol. It needed to be warmed before it dissolved fully.
Never try to produce hash or hash oil from marijuana seeds, they contain very little or no psychoactive compounds and will only add impurities to the final product. If a seed or two accidentally gets mixed in the marijuana you are working with, don't worry, but keep the seeds to a minimum.
For your first attempt you can try filling up the pipe with leaves, stem, and other marijuana by-products that would otherwise not be good for smoking. You should get something.
When growing marijuana, most people throw away leaves that dry up or are cut during regular plant maintenance. This is a good way to experiment with something that would otherwise end up in the garbage.
If you like the results, you can try making larger amounts of oil using good bud instead of leaves. Making honey oil out of marijuana is recommended for anyone, but because of the small return a large amount of weed will be needed to produce a substantial amount of oil.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How To Make Red Hash Oil
If you have some practical chemistry experience you can try making red oil instead of honey oil. Red oil is not as potent as honey oil, but if you use the same amount (and potency) of marijuana to produce both red oil and honey oil, the red oil yield will be larger.
You will be working with chemicals that will ignite if not used in a properly ventilated lab. Do not attempt this without a proper spark-less exhaust system if you are not working in a lab.
1) completely dry and grind material to a powder. soak material in petroleum ether for several hours, but less than 24 hours. strain, saving the pet ether/oil mixture... pressing out the material thoroughly to get as much solvent/oil out of the material as possible. filter the solvent/oil mixture through a coffee filter.
2) extract pet ether/oil mixture w/ an ~ 4% sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in alcohol solution three times.
3) acidify the NaOH/oil mixture w/ HCl (diluted 2:1 or 3:1 with distilled water) to pH 3. filter the acidified mixture through a coffee filter.
4) extract acidified mixture w/ pet ether three times. evaporate off pet ether to yield red honey oil!
NOTE: this recipe works well w/ small quantities of material.
when dealing w/ large material quantities, replace 1) w/ ->
- dry, grind and soak material in 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol for three days.
- strain and filter, saving alcohol/oil mixture.
- evaporate off alcohol down to ~ 250 - 300 ml of alcohol/oil mixture.
- extract alcohol/oil mixture w/ pet ether three times.
* extract = placing two solutions in a separatory funnel, mixing thoroughly, and allowing the two phases to separate...
--- given pet ether & alcohol >> (pet ether on top) (alcohol on bottom)
--- given pet ether & NaOH soln >> (pet ether on top) (NaOH soln on bottom). same for pet ether and acidified NaOH solution.
* to make the NaOH solution - mix 40 mg of pure NaOH pellets into 500 ml of distilled water until dissolved thoroughly. then add 500 ml of absolute grain alcohol (everclear), yielding ~ 1 liter of the sodium hydroxide solution.
* white gas can be substituted for pet ether (verified) muriatic acid (swimming pools) can be substituted for HCl (verified) lye can be substituted for NaOH (verified).
After a few minutes, the butane extract will finish draining from the pipe to the receiving vessel. Maintain caution with the pipe, however, since there is a lot of residual butane still evaporating from within the pipe (notice the stream of fumes coming from the top hole).
When it slows down to a drop every few seconds, you can tap on the top hole with your finger and it will help push the last of the liquid butane out (or one can gently blow into the top hole to do the same thing). Remember, no smoking, unless you wish to immolate yourself in grand fashion.
Being very low boiling and volatile, the collected butane will likely begin boiling at ambient temperature.
The pyrex vessel will gradually frost up as the butane cools it down, slowing down its rate of evaporation, but you can speed this up by holding it in your hands. A better way is to set it in a saucepan containing a little bit of warm water.
Watch the butane start bubbling madly with the increase in temperature and marvel at its low boiling point. Again, do this outdoors with a nice breeze!
You may have to repeat the process several times if you have a lot of marijuana to process but the result is worth the effort. When more than 3-4 ounces of marijuana is being converted to oil, it is best to have 2 pyrex dishes and alternate the dish you extract into.
When you are finished, you can simply let the butane evaporate. It takes a minimum of 20 minutes for the butane to evaporate. Use a pyrex vessel with a flat bottom if you choose this method.
The honey oil will be fairly cohesive and can be scraped off and collected with a razor blade and stored, after the butane has fully evaporated.
An alternate method is to let all of the butane evaporate off and then redissolve the oil in some isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher), and then pour the mixture into a vial (or some other type of small container) and let it sit out for a day or more to allow the alcohol to evaporate.
Isopropyl alcohol is not as flammable as butane but fumes can ignite when exposed to a spark or flame, so be sure store it in an area that has some ventilation while the isopropyl alcohol evaporates. After evaporation, put the screw cap on the vial and store it in a cool dark area.
Trying to transfer the oil into a small container while it is still solvated by the butane is too risky. I learned the hard way about this, thanks to the volatile temperament of butane.
I had filled a vial almost all the way to the top and was preparing to drop those last couple drops in, so that cleverly, I could let the last of the butane evaporate from the vial and the oil would all be neatly contained.
But when the last drop hit the mother lode in the vial, it changed the temperature of the solution in the vial upward by a hair and it all super boiled out of the vial and onto my fingers, which of course startled me and caused me to drop the vial.
I suggest dissolving it in alcohol as I mentioned above. If you can get pure or 99% isopropyl alcohol (also isopropanol and sold as rubbing alcohol), use it, because THC's photosensitivity reportedly does not occur in isopropyl alcohol.
The final product is a deep yellow-amber oil of the highest quality, incredibly pure and potent. I remember well some of the prime honey oil hash oils that hit the market in the late 1970s, and this stuff stands up to (if not exceeds) any of them.
It's amazing how this method extracts only the good fraction and leaves the junk in the weed. But that's exactly what it does. The color of the oil isn't as see-through as traditional honey oil but it is just as potent.
Because it is so fresh, it may be even more potent than any oil you may have tried before. Hash oil will degrade in less than a year. Only make as much as you will consume in a few months.
Note also that this oil has a somewhat higher melt/vaporization point than traditional hash oils. The traditional dispensing method (dipping a needle or paper clip in, getting some goop on the end, and warming it with a flame to get it to drip off) still works with this stuff.
However, it seems you have to be more careful with it because it doesn't heat to liquid state as quickly or in the same manner. It can easily be burned up on your needle if you are used to hash oil that is produced using other solvents. So be careful.
I also observed that unlike honey oil derived from traditional methods, this product is not immediately soluble in room-temp alcohol. It needed to be warmed before it dissolved fully.
Never try to produce hash or hash oil from marijuana seeds, they contain very little or no psychoactive compounds and will only add impurities to the final product. If a seed or two accidentally gets mixed in the marijuana you are working with, don't worry, but keep the seeds to a minimum.
For your first attempt you can try filling up the pipe with leaves, stem, and other marijuana by-products that would otherwise not be good for smoking. You should get something.
When growing marijuana, most people throw away leaves that dry up or are cut during regular plant maintenance. This is a good way to experiment with something that would otherwise end up in the garbage.
If you like the results, you can try making larger amounts of oil using good bud instead of leaves. Making honey oil out of marijuana is recommended for anyone, but because of the small return a large amount of weed will be needed to produce a substantial amount of oil.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How To Make Red Hash Oil
If you have some practical chemistry experience you can try making red oil instead of honey oil. Red oil is not as potent as honey oil, but if you use the same amount (and potency) of marijuana to produce both red oil and honey oil, the red oil yield will be larger.
You will be working with chemicals that will ignite if not used in a properly ventilated lab. Do not attempt this without a proper spark-less exhaust system if you are not working in a lab.
1) completely dry and grind material to a powder. soak material in petroleum ether for several hours, but less than 24 hours. strain, saving the pet ether/oil mixture... pressing out the material thoroughly to get as much solvent/oil out of the material as possible. filter the solvent/oil mixture through a coffee filter.
2) extract pet ether/oil mixture w/ an ~ 4% sodium hydroxide (NaOH) in alcohol solution three times.
3) acidify the NaOH/oil mixture w/ HCl (diluted 2:1 or 3:1 with distilled water) to pH 3. filter the acidified mixture through a coffee filter.
4) extract acidified mixture w/ pet ether three times. evaporate off pet ether to yield red honey oil!
NOTE: this recipe works well w/ small quantities of material.
when dealing w/ large material quantities, replace 1) w/ ->
- dry, grind and soak material in 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol for three days.
- strain and filter, saving alcohol/oil mixture.
- evaporate off alcohol down to ~ 250 - 300 ml of alcohol/oil mixture.
- extract alcohol/oil mixture w/ pet ether three times.
* extract = placing two solutions in a separatory funnel, mixing thoroughly, and allowing the two phases to separate...
--- given pet ether & alcohol >> (pet ether on top) (alcohol on bottom)
--- given pet ether & NaOH soln >> (pet ether on top) (NaOH soln on bottom). same for pet ether and acidified NaOH solution.
* to make the NaOH solution - mix 40 mg of pure NaOH pellets into 500 ml of distilled water until dissolved thoroughly. then add 500 ml of absolute grain alcohol (everclear), yielding ~ 1 liter of the sodium hydroxide solution.
* white gas can be substituted for pet ether (verified) muriatic acid (swimming pools) can be substituted for HCl (verified) lye can be substituted for NaOH (verified).
billy_fyshe
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2007
- Messages
- 347
- Reaction score
- 361
:yeahthat:
H
HGB
Guest
oil mmm
T
the widowmaker
Guest
I'm just making some now
Dubbaman
A few toke's a day.
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2007
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IM interested in seeing the various methods. then have a small contributor contest and have a few others try out the said methods and the whole forum can be the test for those who choose to try them and report in on things like ease of "cooking" ,ammount harvested combined with quantity used in process etc. but thats my input for it and i just made some very nice iso hash again from my recent trimmings, rolled it in some nice cured up bud in a J and dont feel much like moving :stoned:
and have a few others try out the said methods and the whole forum can be the test for those who choose to try them and report in on things like ease of "cooking" ,ammount harvested combined with quantity used in process etc. but thats my input for it and i just made some very nice iso hash again from my recent trimmings, rolled it in some nice cured up bud in a J and dont feel much like moving :stoned:
T
the widowmaker
Guest
I'm smoking some honey oil now so its unlikely that i will post it up tonight, i've got all the pics, but i gotta resize em and everything.
T
That crazy vancouver guy
Guest
lol, widow... too stoned to play around, eh? lol
well...I'm sick today so I'm going to bed - sober... and it's only 7:30
chow
well...I'm sick today so I'm going to bed - sober... and it's only 7:30
chow
octobong007
smoke-alotta-pottamus
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2007
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- 224
must be rocket surgery or something...on this site, we're known for DOING tutorials, not talking about them. :fid:
A
allgrownup
Guest
for those that go both ways
which is a better smoke?
i've never tried the butane method. I've been using ISO
which is a better smoke?
i've never tried the butane method. I've been using ISO
stonedsmithy
To Wasted To Know
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2007
- Messages
- 563
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- 137
I see Midnight toker has talked about red oil but all you need to do to make red oil is once you have strained all the iso from the leave material is put the iso in a glass jar an sit on a window sill for a day or so then cook it off an it will come out red but if you want to get really nice tasting oil dont hold it for long when soaking cozz then its only pulling out the thc an not all the other shhit
Puffin Afatty
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 2, 2007
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I just grind up the weed, put in glass jar, pour iso alcohol over it, put lid on and shake for 2 min or less, then strain into pyrex bowl and evaporate on a coffe cup warmer.
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