Yellowing leaves

[Green n Purp]

I just transplanted the few plants and I started to notice some yellow tips, and edges. I am in new pots and soils (organic) as of a few days ago. I use a 250 Metal Arc bulb with aluminum shield 30"-36" away. When I placed it closer as some posts say to do, the plants got yellow in a few hrs! I increased distance and temp is still at 72-80F in the room. I have used Miracle grow 20-20-20 for a week now watering daily since soil is dry for a few inches, even prior to transplanting. Bottom line is that I cant shake the yellowing. One plant has none so I'm stumped. First time grower. Pics attached....

 

[4u2sm0ke]

organic soil dont need the Mirical grow nutes for a spell..maybe aver nuted them a bit...I would just water for the next few weeks with PH adjusted water

take care and be safe

 

[4u2sm0ke]

welcome to the passion my friend:48:

is that a shower stall?

 

[4u2sm0ke]

I also see Mite damage...may want to attack those soon...

 

[Green n Purp]

Its a basement area I framed off and its 3' x 3'. Theres also a section 3' x 10' next to it for more! Hopefully the roomie moves out and I can utilize the entire basement. Thanks for the interest. I did use Mite X on the plants last night and today. Caught one roming around, the little meanies.

 

[4u2sm0ke]

mojo for the grow...be sure and try use diffrent words as they frown on foul language here...but I agree about them little bugers

:48:

 

[4u2sm0ke]

Im surprised the filters diddnt ******

 

[Hushpuppy]

Lots of green mojo for your new grow You have to be careful with getting the lights too close to the plants as that will cook them a bit, and it will first show as yellowing. A good way to tell how close to keep the lights is (once the plants have grown for a couple weeks and are stronger) hold your hand over the highest part of the tallest plant directly under the light, with yer palm facing down. Feel the heat of the light on the back of yer hand. If it feel too warm to be comfortable for you then it is too warm for the plants. If you start seedlings under strong HID lighting(400w or more) then you want to back it up so that you have about 3'-4' of space between the plants and lights for the first couple weeks. Once the plants start growing vigorously(about 3rd to 4th week) then you can lower the lights to the hand test.

I totally agree with Smoke on the nutes. I personally wouldn't use the MG nutes at all as they are not formulated for MJ and will very easily burn MJ. I would recommend that you do some reading here on all of the Organic growing AND get you a book on growing organic if that is where you want to stay. Many people try to grow organically without really knowing the depths of organics, and they end up having loads of grief until they figure it out.

Also, I see what appears to be aluminum foil on the walls of the grow. If that is correct, rip it down and either paint the walls with flat white paint or get some mylar, or reflectix to line the walls. Aluminum foil is a very poor reflector of the good light and a good reflector of heat. I also recommend for you in the future, if you continue to grow and expand, to look into getting a tent for flowering and keep that space for vegging.

If you have any questions, don't be afraid to ask. We were all noobs once

 

[Green n Purp]

Proper. Done and Done. This site rocks. Yes I am staging multi locations now, one for veg and separate for flowering. Aluminum was always a question in my eyes as well.

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

I do not understand why they would yellow when you get the light closer. You really do need it closer IMO, or you are risking some real stretch. What are your temps running? Do you have any ventilation?

Also a 250W MH is not enough light for a 3 x 3 space. I do not know the lumen output, but you want a minimum of 3000 lumens per sq ft for vegging and 5000 for floowering.

I also would not use MG nutes either. If you want to stay organic, use organic nutes. Chemical nutes will kill microbes in organic soil.

 

[Hushpuppy]

THG: I think the yellowing is from the heat more so than the light but I'm not sure. I have noticed several times in my plants that when they get too close to the lights that they start yellowing around the area closest to the light. Here are a couple pics of my plants right now.

They are MK Ultra(in the back) and Pineapple chunk(in the front but cant see most of them as I am looking over them) at 6wks, and they are about 3' tall. The center of the pics you can see the yellowing in the center of the plants, about <10" away from the 2 600w lights that are sitting about 24" apart in cool tubes. This is not just the top of one plant but rather the inside edges of 4 different plants that are set in a square formation. If you look carefully you can see that all of the yellowing is only in a ring in the center of the grow space and not on the outside areas that are farther than 12" from the lights. If you look close at the 3 buds in the center of the pic, in the back, you can see that there is also damage done to the buds as well as the surrounding leaves.

I don't have pics of other plants that have done this but almost every grow that has grown up to my lights has had this same yellowing.

 

[skullcandy]

I would suggest you let the pots for a few days then put about 1/2 gallon of water with ph at 6.5 and add a little nutes i used the ff grow big, reason being one of your pots looks dry and all the soil needs to be moistened, and a half gallon or however much water it takes to wet all the soil and some come out the bottom add a little then wait like five then add more till it comes out the bottom when started my plants i used less then 1/2 gallon of H20 per pot now in the flower stage a gallon each. and mostly cause there to small to see much of a problem with them. TMO

 

[Hushpuppy]

Something else on the yellowing that I missed before; most likely the light isn't causing the yellowing in your case as it is only a 250wMH, but combined that with having just transplanted them and using high potency MG nutes on young, small plants, and moving the HID light closer to them, I'd say they are in "over-loved" shock. MJ is a hardy but a finicky plant that wants just the right conditions and leave it alone. Too often people either feed them to death or water them to death, or just handle them too much.

After a transplant into new soil, if the roots were disturbed much then they shouldn't be fed but only watered in, and then have the light backed off some for about 5-8days until you start seeing growth again, then start bringing the light back in closer and increasing the lumens over the next couple weeks as they progress.

 

[Green n Purp]

So...Good comments for my learning. I did alot alot alot of reading over last 2 weeks full time. I had wrong soil ph (8) and no "p" or "k" under soil testing. I corrected a real soil mix after training from horticulturalists at the local places I snooped into for expert soil help. I found out I needed the following:
*3000 Lumens/sqft min. - Was under powered light source at 2000 lum. Now Im at 3400. Lighting results overnight.
*Pots were too small. They wouldn't hold enough water and roots were compressed. Larger pots now 2 gallons.
*Soil was corrected to spec - phwas 8, now 6.5-7.0 Nutrients are testing at midreange strengths. also added epsom salts to increase calcium uptake since plants showed weak calcium intake possibly from deficiency charts.
*Temp was way too hot on lights....twas 100* F at base of hood. I had 2 - 250MH with commercial hoods that fully enclose the light like at a warehouse or grocery store..see pic. Full deep round hoods that send light down with a 45* range see pics. I think these were a bad shape and made hot spots that burned as well. I had to keep lights far away (3'); loosing more power. I bought a 1000Watt MH switchable for the new 5x5 room I'm hooking up this week. I will also keep as flowering room and switch to HPS in a few weeks. check.
*Ventilation...I had no ventilation and now do. 4" dryer vent intake and 3" pipe hooked up to a bathroom blower fan exhausting right into the chimeny exhuast leading to the rooftop.
*Moisture control...I was fumbling keeping moisture in balance and had........anyway. I fully wrapped a room 5x5 with plastic and sealed it completely even at the door with foam seal. Moisture now stays at 40-55% with no help...simply evaporation from plants maintains balance.

I needed a good boost since first crop. Thanks to all who promote the "sport" with open arms. -few states legalized...more to go-:icon_smile:
View attachment 200738

 

[Hushpuppy]

Glad to hear you got straight, and you have learned much grasshopper Remember what you have learned as you now have them looking good. Be prepared as you will again be tested by some unthought of mistake. I have been growing in earnest now for several years and still have my skills(and memory) tested on occasion.

 

[randm999]

The problem is that you fertilized in soil that already has nutriants in it. As young as they are, and in good soil, why did you decide that they needed nutriants?

 

[Green n Purp]

I saw a chart under "sick plants" called a nutrient deficiency chart. http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54233
I noticed similar Phosphorus and Potassium deficiencies from the chart on my plants. I ended up testing the soil with a kit that alows for testing of N-P-K individually. I was lacking severe P and K. I adjusted and noticed immediate growth the next night already. Everything is fine now. I'm getting 4-5 shoots a day popping out and the strain is Blue Mystic. It is a short compact plant. I got a bunch of "Ice" coming ready soon!

 

[Hushpuppy]

On those lights; you can get these atachments for the bulbs that eliminate hot spots directly below the lights which allow you to move them closer. I can't remember the name of them but if you look around you should be able to find them. That is one reason that I like using cool tubes as the light is scattered over a larger foot print that I can control. With the enclosed hood, you have a set light foot print.

 

[HighBrixMMJ]

also i noticed you said you watered everyday. you should definately let the sol dry out before watering again as the roots need that dry time or you will risk root rot. try some superthrive b-1 next watering to help with the stress. be careful not to underwater too, both are a common mistake of the new grower. i typically look for the leaves to tell me when they need water. when they are praying theyre happy but when they start to droop they need water but dont let em droop too much. its a fine line. whenever i see yellowing or deficiencies i check ph first and foremost rather than correct the deficiency as nute lockout will occur. with organics its important also to oxygenate your solution for at least 24 hours to help build microbial life and buffer your ph naturally. agood foam on the top is a good sign youre doing it right! green mojo friend