arreated compost teas- another easy method

trillions of atoms · Feb 15, 2008

This is a simple way to make what I call "a quick steep tea."

first you must find the right size container to hold your finished product, and place inside that container a smaller container with drianage holes (i use a regular planting pot) to hold the medium you want to steep. you can use compost of all sorts, make sure the organic material you use is already broken down...no raw meat, eggshells, oyster shells, wood chips, twigs leaves, etc.

as these will do no good and may even harm your plants. put composted material in the smaller container setting it within a bigger container, rubbermaids work perfect:

Notice im using chicken compost with some rabbit compost mixed it from the feed store. Start watering the container with the medium in it... so the nutes will be leeched out of the soil.

notice the water that has drianed out is stained with nutrients not clear:

continue watering until you reach desired level in main container:

notice how full the smaller container is after i added the water in the bigger container. i dumped out some medium to make steeping easier and faster.

lift up on the smaller container holding the medium and let water run out....

notice what the medium looks like drianed off:

then dip back into the container holding tea....let water soak medium fully:

lift smaller container agian...arreating the tea and kikstarting bennifical bacteria.

repeat:continue for at least 10 times, the more medium you add to container and the more times you repeat this method the stronger the tea will be.

finished product...already arreated but you can add an airstone to this and bubble for over night, or use it immediately.

now you can fertilize = %100 ORGANIC!!!!!

hope this helps!!!!!

trillions of atoms · Apr 17, 2008

pics on thread now....

goneindawind · Apr 24, 2008

this will work with guano too? and how u known if its too strong or not

trillions of atoms · Apr 26, 2008

guano is fine, and works even better for flower....the strength is consistant with steep time and amount of water. if you use a cup of guano to a gallon of water you will have a strong tea espicially if you steep many times. usually the darker the tea the more nutrients in it. try less in the beginning- if they respond little then your not steeping enough or itd just to diluted, add more guano the next time or less water i prefer more water and more guano with less of a steep therefore i can steep agian if needbe and i have no worries of burn. the more diluted the nutes with a hottter fert (bat and bird) the better off down the road. theres a careful mix with the guanos but mushroom and cow manurs are somtimes easier to work with. i use the mushroom/cow for veg usually and throw in the guano and bird compost for bloom.

wedginfool · May 18, 2008

any guide lines as to how much per gallon in your rez????

trillions of atoms · May 18, 2008

ok if you are to use this method i would steep with a pillowcase instead of a container like a planting pot. that way the particulate will stay out of the tea.

you can steep one cup cow manure per gallon to start. the cow and muchroom compost will be easier to use than a hot compost like a guano.

try steeping a half a pound of compost for every gallon after plants are past the tenderling staGE...

the plants will start turning neon green and can look like a scary color sometimes pale in a way but this is a good thing! if you feed with this and the plants are older and just perk up a bit, then steep a pound medium/ per gallon. with the composts you wont be burning the plants unless you really really concentrate the liquid by letting it evaperate some of the water out of the nutrient solution and dont dilute before feeding.

most plants will show vigorous neon growth with in 24-48 hrs after first application. if they dont look like they are reacting, time to up the dosage

Killertea08 · May 20, 2008

Right on man thats way easyer then running an air stone for 3 days I think i'll try it out today I bought some compost at a gardening center.

4herbs · Jun 6, 2008

I have a question for you!When i use chicken **** and cow **** and such stuff do i first dry it and crush it to be crumbly or just put fresh **** in the container and then pour water in it???

lyfr · Jun 6, 2008

4herbs said:
I have a question for you!When i use chicken **** and cow **** and such stuff do i first dry it and crush it to be crumbly or just put fresh **** in the container and then pour water in it???

sorry, but the "fresh" thing got me. i have this picture in my heAD of someone standing behind a cow with a bucket!

docfishwrinkle · Jun 6, 2008

4herbs said:
I have a question for you!When i use chicken **** and cow **** and such stuff do i first dry it and crush it to be crumbly or just put fresh **** in the container and then pour water in it???

never put "fresh" **** into soil it will nuke plants. you need to compost it 1st. reason being when it breaks down two different bacterias will break down ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate & a whole lot of other micro organisms doin a buch of other stuff, its a complicated process. ammonia is what will kill ur plants

trillions of atoms · Jun 10, 2008

yes dont use fresh poo, buy the composted stuff at home depot or lowes.

kalikisu · Feb 26, 2009

another good post.

zipflip · May 19, 2009

i been readin alot of how sheep manure is real hot.
just picked some this stuff up at good ol ac hardware too. and been readin round a bit on teas. i did a serch on here for teas. it seems our mp serch function wont work on any 3 letter word.
and i only got 2 results for teas. could anyone steer me in a good direction for this tea makin bizz an the chemistry of it etc.
i really like the idea of this organics bit. the whole bein harder to burn ya plants than wit chems and just flat out better bud wit organic. and i really do not wannna pay 70-1000 for a good organic nutrient pack. yikes.
but i did also pick up some blood meal (12-0-0) and some bone meal (6-12-0)
was also tryin to see if maybe a guy can concoct a tea with them as well.

loved the instructional tho trillions, i am definately gonna try this on my tomatoes an peppers outside for sure. i got 2 diff bags. one is compost an cow manure and other is compost and sheep manure.(pic below
wat experiences have any you had usin sheep maure at all?
thanks trillions.

docfishwrinkle · May 19, 2009

ive used bone meal in teas & am not entirely convinced that it adds to it being so hard to break down. so i now just use it in soil only. take that back i do use in tea for flowering just for the fact that it may add a lil. google works wonders & yes search on this site sucks

zipflip · May 19, 2009

i try serchin google an am currently along side MP right now on it but tehre very limited results that say that much when serchin for bone meal tea or blood.
so im readin my box of bone meal here an the instructions say "mix 1tsp into the backfill soilof indiidual plants or work 1 cup per 12 sq.ft into the soil of landscaping bed to a depth of 6 inches before planting"
this is where i'm defective. lol
i mean of course nothin you buy in the store locally is gonna list instructions to that of an mj plant growing etc . lol but im horrible at doin this breakin down the math bit especially wit measurments .
how much "do you know" to add to soil mix like per gallon of soil?

Mutt · May 19, 2009

I would leave the bone and blood meal to adding to the soilmix as a slow release supplement. organic teas is only 1/2 way to the mark. soilmix is crucial as well and IMO should be learned first prior to getting into the teas. My soil mix requires no teas until flower. but i'm still learning them. So many ways to skin this cat.

Here's -REv's tea mixes great info. Google "compost brewing" or I'll steer a bro here....he'll give ya a years worth of reading.

I sorta gutted his article to the bare bones. but whole read is out there and worth the time to read it

The -REv aka rollanterroy said:
Mother Mary's Tea Recipes

* The measurments below are for a one gallon tea bubbler.When making teas in smaller containers,simply adjust the recipe or dilute the final tea with water.

* In these recipes,brew the tea with an airstone in a one gallon container for 24 to 48 hours.When you're done brewing,strain it through a nylon stocking (for topical/sprayer applications) or a standard strainer (for normal watering applications) and cut it 50/50 using dechlorinated water.

* Fungi-dominant tea compost should be mixed together and kept very wet for three to seven days prior to brewing.Store it high in a room,near the ceiling and in the dark.The microlife and fungi populations will really bloom if you place a heating pad-set to low-below the container (shoot for 68-75 degrees fahrenheit;20-24 degrees celsius).After three days,it will be visibly booming with fungus (what I call "Santa's Beard").Put this in your tea brewer and bubble it (in place of regular compost).

* Prepare for the container to foam up and bubble over.You should place a tray under your tea bubbler and avoid any electrical or other items that may be damaged or unsafe around the bubbling water.

Vegetative Stage Recipe

* One Gallon Water *: R/O water,rain water,distilled etc. etc.

* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured)1-0-5)*:
Be sure to use only the unsulfured variety.This is because sulfur kills microlife,especially fungus (unless it's elemental sulfur in small ratios).

* One Teaspoon liquid Alaskan Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1)*:
Fungus and bacteria both love fish ferts and go nuts reproducing when it's included.

* One Cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or good outdoor compost*:
Vermicompost provides humates,enzymes,protozoa,nematodes,bacteria,fungus ,trace elements,secondary and primary nutrients.

* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).

Flowering Stage Recipes

* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured) (1-0-5) *:
An excellent source of potassium during flowering;bacteria prefer these simple sugars,whereas the fungus prefer more complex sugars derived from various organic matter.

* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).

* One Teaspoon High Phosphorous Bat Guano (0-4-0) *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

* One cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or regular compost *:
Good balance of nutrient (trace and secondary).Also a source for microbes and beneficial elements.

* One teaspoon Maxicrop liquid or 1/2 teaspoon water soluble Maxicrop or kelp/seaweed extract (dry) *:
A fungal favorite,this is a key tea ingredient that produces a good ratio of happy fungus.It's also booming with trace elements,some nitrogen,and some potassium.

* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source for phosphorous,magnesium & sulfur.

Fungus Dominant (halfway through flowering) Recipes

* 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings *:
See above.

* 1/2 cup Mushroom Compost *:
This is fungus waiting to happen.A rich source of fungal spores and dense organic matter that fungi like to eat.

* Two tablespoons Powdered,100% Natural rolled oats *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.

* Two teaspoons Kelp Meal *:
I use kelp meal for several reasons.It's organic matter that fungi like to attach themselves to.Fungi love kelp extracts as a primary food source and the rich trace elements and potassium it introduces.

* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source of phosphorous,magnesium and sulfur.

The earthworm castings,mushroom compost,oatmeal,and kelp meal are first mixed together and made very wet.After fungus has grown on this blend,place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock phosphate.

Thou Shalt Not

There are certain varieties of compost and brewing conditions that should be avoided when brewing a batch of organic tea.

Chlorine: I've said it before and I'll say it again:Never use chlorinated water on organic soil!This obviously includes teas.But if your only source of water is chlorinated,don't freak out.Simply drop an airstone in an uncovered container of the water for 24 hours.Your chlorine problems will be gone.

Compost Leachates: This is just compost squeezed and pressed.It's not very nutrient rich.But it'slack of nutrients isn't the problem (remember,using teas as a vehicle for transporting nutrients to your plants is a supplemental benefit).The problem is anaerobic activity,which can spell death for your plants.

Compost Extracts: While these provide more nutrient value than compost leachates,they still contain anaerobic activity (the big "I'm a *******" move in the world of organic teas).

Violent Aeration: Aeration is your friend and the key to a potent tea that's teaming with good bacteria.But too much aeration on the scale that provides an excessive amount of agitation and turbulence to the tea-is a bad thing becuase it will actually beat the microbeasties to death!Be gentle with the teas;remember that they're teaming with microbes!

Ultraviolet/HID/Sunlight: Avoid any high intensity lights or sunlight.Instead,use "normal" house lighting,such as florescent or tungsten.However,avoid any light source near your tea brewer.Regular room lighting is fine,but-as a rule of thumb-dimmer is better.

zipflip · May 19, 2009

wwow mutt!! your right that is pretty complex goin into teas. lol
im just so congested in the brain wonderin how to go bout my next grow that i just started . and wonderin when it comes time to transplant for flowering how im gonna go bout doin all this to get it right but yet keep it fairly simple yet cost efficient. i knwo yu get wat ya pay for an back wat ya ut in by far but dont know if i'd be able to get no fancy nutrient pack. but i definately dont wanna do chems. they scare they confuse the **** outta me even more lol.
but for soil additives so far i got blood an bone meal. tried findin kelp meal to cover teh K but couldnt find any. may end up orderin some. or wat might you suggest for a soil aditive to take care the K?
thanks again mutt.

cubby · May 19, 2009

Hey Zip, I got a compost tea that might work well for you. I've been using this metod for years and have had great results. Put 20 pounds of a .05-.05-.05 composted manuer into pillow case tie the top tightly, leave a couple extra feet of twine at the end, put that in a plastic garbage can, I use 35 gallon, fill 3/4 with water(rain water is best, you wil see a big diffence),tie the pillow case to the handle of the garbage can, put the top on and let it sit. You can use it in as little as a couple hours but letting it sit for a day or so before using it gives a better mix of water to manuer, obviously. You can water plants with this as you would regular water, 2-3 times weekly. you can also foliar feed with this mixture early in the morning. You can increase the heat of the tea by using a black can and leaving it in a sunny spot. You can also increase the airation by dunking the pillow case as you would a tea bag. Change the manuer out every 10 days to 2 weeks. Let the used stuff dry out for a day or so then use it to top dress outdoor flower or vegetable garden beds.
Hope this has been of some help, best of luck.

Mutt · May 19, 2009

but for soil additives so far i got blood an bone meal. tried findin kelp meal to cover teh K but couldnt find any. may end up orderin some. or wat might you suggest for a soil aditive to take care the K?

Kmag
Greensand
ash/charcoal
hempicompost
mollassas
composted fruit
oatmeal or grains
red fish
any of those work.

can even burn the oatmeal and grain and add into the mix.
Compsted as well. in the organic section is a list i posted "composted NPK of things" or something like that.
Even some stale beer in tea. with some mollassas and couple peices of fruit even...can get creative with organic stuff

blenders help too. got something at hand and not sure how to use it just shoot me a pm and remind me about this thread. if i don't got the answer i can get it pretty fast.

zipflip · May 19, 2009

Hey Zip, I got a compost tea that might work well for you. I've been using this metod for years and have had great results. Put 20 pounds of a .05-.05-.05 composted manuer into pillow case tie the top tightly, leave a couple extra feet of twine at the end, put that in a plastic garbage can, I use 35 gallon, fill 3/4 with water(rain water is best, you wil see a big diffence),tie the pillow case to the handle of the garbage can, put the top on and let it sit. You can use it in as little as a couple hours but letting it sit for a day or so before using it gives a better mix of water to manuer, obviously. You can water plants with this as you would regular water, 2-3 times weekly. you can also foliar feed with this mixture early in the morning. You can increase the heat of the tea by using a black can and leaving it in a sunny spot. You can also increase the airation by dunking the pillow case as you would a tea bag. Change the manuer out every 10 days to 2 weeks. Let the used stuff dry out for a day or so then use it to top dress outdoor flower or vegetable garden beds.
Hope this has been of some help, best of luck.

them npk of ya stuff teh .5-.5-.5 is the exact npk of the compost/manure mix i got in bag from store. i also grabbed a bag of compost/sheep manure mix(bag from store) . now are you talkin good for the mj or garden plants etc outside?

MUTT<<<<>>>>

can even burn the oatmeal and grain and add into the mix.

how in the world do you burn oatmeal an grain?
i found this page that breaks down the science of compost teas and how they work etc.. i'm in prosess of gettin thru it now. hopefully afterward i'll at least have a better grip on this all.hxxp://www.acresusa.com/toolbox/reprints/Dec03_Compost%20Teas.pdf

thanks guys. have a smokey day!!!

arreated compost teas- another easy method

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