I've got a household electrical issue . . . Can anyone help?

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GoNAVY

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Ok, I've got a possible electrical issue. Hopefully someone here can direct me. I hope.

While I was drying a load of clothes. The dryer just simply cut out.

I went to check the fuse box, only to find this circuit is the 'cartridge' fuse style.

Oddly I never noticed it before......never had to check it........first house....


So, is there a way to tell if this cartridge style fuse is blown by looking at it?


Is there a way to tell if this is an issue with the Dryer?

Hardware Store or Fix-It Dude?



Thanks in advance..........Appreciate it everyone.


Navy
 
Reddy Kilowatt said:
Need more information.

If you can't see a blown filament then you need xray vision or a inexpensive meter.

Most likely a fuse but, difficult to troubleshoot without a meter. Easiest to replace fuse to eliminate as problem.

Yes, I have seen where the dryer was causing repeated blown fuses but, most of the time it is an overloaded circuit.

Goodluck


Thanks Reddy

No filament can be seen. Fuse has a dark red fiberous material covering the center portion and with the two copper(?) caps at either end.

The fuse cover that I pull out of the Fuse Box, has 2 of these 40 AMP fuses. The upper has a darker burgundy material where the lower is red.

I wasn't sure if the different shade indicated functionality.

....Very Cool...

Thanks again Reddy. Im off to Home Depot.
 
Also... The dryer is the only device on that circuit, as per the schematic.

If this dryer is the cause (startings of repetetive blowings), do you think it can be repaird efficiently?


Regards

N
 
SmokinMom said:
No idea, but hope you get it squared away ASAP. ;)


I'm kind of paranoid of mildue smelling laundry. Hate It !!!
 
Get a electrican to check it out. Be safe arround electric!
 
Reddy Kilowatt said:
That's a good question.

Some parts are cheap and worth it some not so much. Saying you do the work yourself. How much value do you place on your used dryer versus a used one that works or a new one.

You won't know by staring at it so I just take things apart to find out whats wrong then decide if it was worth it.


Thanks again Reddy !!!

Gonna try new fuses first. I really hope thats it.

Here buddy, get this into you. :48: :D

Appreciate your help ! ! !
 
ozzydiodude said:
Get a electrican to check it out. Be safe arround electric!


Yeah, If it isn't the fuses, I'll most likely get some professional help. The wife gets figgity when I try to dabble in things I don't have any idea about.

I figured if there was a systematic approach, like I'm used to, than I may have tried it myself.

Looks like there's too many variables.


Thanks Ozzy. :D
 
Simply swop one fuse with the other. If it was the fuse, the dryer will come on but the other things won't. If the dryer has blown a 40A fuse ... you may need a new dryer.
 
Yo Ho GoNAVY,

I like to think that a few moments of slowing down and cooling ones' jets a tad is a good thing when it comes to electrical. I also think that if you were popping that circuit often, then it can be one of a few things to consider.
If that line is rated for 40 amps, and so is the fuse then that is enough to run a dryer unless you have electrical elements generating heat (they can short out), instead of say natural gas. That 40 amp would then be my questionable culprit, and you would heat up the wires and the circuit breaker quickly until it popped.
If you are using a gas dryer and the circuit is popping I would wonder if their was enough lint buildup that the lint is interfering with the drum turning and if so then the motor would have a tendency to overheat. That too would pop your circuit.
Use good reasoning and you will find your problem soon enough, just be cautious with electricity, it can bite pretty hard.


smoke in peace
Kingkahuuna:cool:
 
GoNAVY said:
Thanks Reddy

No filament can be seen. Fuse has a dark red fiberous material covering the center portion and with the two copper(?) caps at either end.

The fuse cover that I pull out of the Fuse Box, has 2 of these 40 AMP fuses. The upper has a darker burgundy material where the lower is red.

I wasn't sure if the different shade indicated functionality.

....Very Cool...

Thanks again Reddy. Im off to Home Depot.


Change both of those fuses with the same type 40 amp fuses and then test your dryer...... If it runs good and does not blow the fuse then your fuse was just worn out.... They do that over time, sometimes heh....

If you change them and they blow again, then you got dryer problems. The first thing I would check is the heating element.... THat element is the reason you need a 80 amp 220 line.. It draws a LOT of juice.... The rest of the dryer probably wont pull 5 amps at 220V total...

That does not mean that there can't be a short somewhere else in the dryer, but the heating element is the first suspect...

Hope this helps
 
CasualGrower said:
Change both of those fuses with the same type 40 amp fuses and then test your dryer...... If it runs good and does not blow the fuse then your fuse was just worn out.... They do that over time, sometimes heh....

If you change them and they blow again, then you got dryer problems. The first thing I would check is the heating element.... THat element is the reason you need a 80 amp 220 line.. It draws a LOT of juice.... The rest of the dryer probably wont pull 5 amps at 220V total...

That does not mean that there can't be a short somewhere else in the dryer, but the heating element is the first suspect...

Hope this helps


Thanks Casual
.

Appreciate your help buddy :)

Would it be a 'current tester' (Meaning the light-up screwdriver style probe with wire and gator clip, pardon my ignorance) that I would need to test the element and the drum motor?

Thanks again Casual.
 
KingKahuuna said:
Yo Ho GoNAVY,

I like to think that a few moments of slowing down and cooling ones' jets a tad is a good thing when it comes to electrical. I also think that if you were popping that circuit often, then it can be one of a few things to consider.
If that line is rated for 40 amps, and so is the fuse then that is enough to run a dryer unless you have electrical elements generating heat (they can short out), instead of say natural gas. That 40 amp would then be my questionable culprit, and you would heat up the wires and the circuit breaker quickly until it popped.
If you are using a gas dryer and the circuit is popping I would wonder if their was enough lint buildup that the lint is interfering with the drum turning and if so then the motor would have a tendency to overheat. That too would pop your circuit.
Use good reasoning and you will find your problem soon enough, just be cautious with electricity, it can bite pretty hard.


smoke in peace
Kingkahuuna:cool:


Thanks Kingkahuuna,

I tend to over-research everything I try to take on. Never rush into anything, do a complete 360 to evaluate all factors (x2 if needed).

It's an electric dryer, no gas lines. Perhaps I'll have the shop vac on hand to clean out as much junk as I can.

Regards buddy.
 
Reddy Kilowatt said:
I see ten screws holding that back panel on.
Panels comes off.
Most likely the heating element.
Probably two screws holding that together.
Pull off wires connectors. remove heating element.
Go to secret place to buy heating element. I guess under $50.
Reverse order or stand on your head and repeat from beginning.

I got a screwdriver.:cool:


:laugh: I used to be able to stand on my head. LOL The spare tire could make it difficult now though.

Thanks buddy.

I'm gonna tackle this in the AM. That way, if I do screw this up, then the wife is awake to save me. LOL

All jokes...
 
CasualGrower said:
Change both of those fuses with the same type 40 amp fuses and then test your dryer...... If it runs good and does not blow the fuse then your fuse was just worn out.... They do that over time, sometimes heh....

If you change them and they blow again, then you got dryer problems. The first thing I would check is the heating element.... THat element is the reason you need a 80 amp 220 line.. It draws a LOT of juice.... The rest of the dryer probably wont pull 5 amps at 220V total...

That does not mean that there can't be a short somewhere else in the dryer, but the heating element is the first suspect...

Hope this helps

I agree, assuming this just started "outa the blue".
 
TURKEYNECK said:
I agree, assuming this just started "outa the blue".

Yup, first time. First attemt to fix.
 
Oh it is an electric dryer? Oh wow cost a lot to operate. You might want to look at the economics of replacing it. Now I see where you're coming from with the two fuses. Probably the standard draw will be 30A or 7.5 KW and then you've likely got a half-horse motor on the drum, another couple of amps. When the motor starts the inrush current will send the total over 40A which is why ur fuses are blowing. Go to a 60A fuse. Check your wire gauge is adequate, I wld have to look it up but it better be more than 12G! Maybe 8G.
 
Make sure you turn the dryer off before replacing that fuse!!!!

if you leave the switch in the on position and the heating element is shorted or you have any other dead short to ground, when you go to replace the fuse it will spit fire at you.

TURN THE DRYER OFF BEFORE REPLACING THE FUSE!!!!!!!!!
 
clanchattan said:
Make sure you turn the dryer off before replacing that fuse!!!!

if you leave the switch in the on position and the heating element is shorted or you have any other dead short to ground, when you go to replace the fuse it will spit fire at you.

TURN THE DRYER OFF BEFORE REPLACING THE FUSE!!!!!!!!!


Thanks Clan,

Its been unplugged since yesterday when I checked for gas lines. Good to know...Appreciate your help buddy.
 

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