Bugs! help please!

[Tinpan Harry]

So I was checking trichomes on a soon to be harvested plant and I see these little critters in this video and pic. Sorry for the grainy media. Do you know what they are and how to treat them?
Thanks!
TPH

 

[pute]

I can't really tell from the picture. How long until harvest?

 

[boo]

that sir is a spider mite...as pute asked, how long until harvest...anything you put on the flowers at late stage that will kill the mites will be smoked...if you're close blasting the plants will be your best bet using water...easy on the plant and it will dislodge the mites...

 

[WeedHopper]

Amphids or Spider Mites. Hard to tell,, but like BOO said just blast them off. Thats all you can do in flower unless you want to smoke poison.

 

[pute]

Looks to big to be a mite. Aphid yes. Do what Hopper said. Harvest as soon as possible.

 

[dogster]

Thrippin holmes.........it'll be ok.

 

[boo]

agreed, the big pic is a thrip but there's no doubting the smaller pic is a 8 legged mite...

 

[tinpanharry]

I can't really tell from the picture. How long until harvest?

Probably a few weeks.

 

[tinpanharry]

Awesome folks. Thanks so much. A friend recommended Lost Coast Therapy plant wash as effective and all natural

I’m thinking of adding this to my weekly IPM treatment of neem oil neem oil not sprayed on buds of course – only soil.

 

[tinpanharry]

Awesome folks. Thanks so much. A friend recommended Lost Coast Therapy plant wash as effective and all natural

I’m thinking of adding this to my weekly IPM treatment of neem oil neem oil not sprayed on buds of course – only soil.

Does this also mean I should probably harvest my entire flowering crop?

 

[pute]

Does this also mean I should probably harvest my entire flowering crop?

Home » Pest Problem Solver » Houseplant Pests » Root Aphid

Root Aphid​

How to spot and organically control root aphids. A growing pest of greenhouse and garden plants.








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Root aphids — aphids that stay at or above the soil line — are from the family Phylloxera, a near-cousin of aphids. They are an escalating problem, especially among indoor growers, and spreading through parts of the country where they haven’t been seen before. They’re hard to spot and unlike small colonies of green and other aphids found on stems and leaves, root aphids are more likely to get out of control. They can multiply quickly, unseen, and sap enough vigor from your plants to kill them.

Table of Contents

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Identification​

Because they’re small — about the size of a mite — and often colored to blend with roots and soil, Phylloxera is hard to spot. Often, growers will see the white, waxy material that the aphids secrete, a chalkier type of the honeydew secreted by other aphids. Their bodies are more pear-shaped than oval as are mealybugs. They’re about the same size or slightly smaller than stem-and-leaf aphids with shorter legs and antennae. They come in a variety of colors, including pink, but are mostly white and brown. They’re commonly confused with the larger mealy bugs, because of the white substance they spread. In their winged stage, they can be confused with fungus gnats. Like other aphids, they have small cornicals or “tail pipes” at the end of their abdomen which also distinguishes them from mealybugs.


Because of their size and below-soil habitat they can go unnoticed, even through one or more grow cycles. They can be spotted attached to the sides of grow cups when growers take the trouble to look. Root aphid damage is often mistaken for other problems, especially nutrient deficiencies. Plants that appear to be suffering from magnesium or iron deficiency should be checked carefully for root aphids.

In outdoor gardens, root aphids may be accompanied by ants. Once established in soil or hydroponic systems, root aphids are difficult to completely remove.

Lifecycle​

Root aphids are surprisingly adaptable and their lifecycle can vary tremendously. They reproduce asexually during the growing season. Eggs over-winter in soil or, in warm seasons, are attached to leaves and stems above the root line where they hatch and fall to the ground. The aphid bores into the root, creating scars that leave plants vulnerable to mildew and disease. As infestations increase, “crawlers” will move up the stem to feed. Once a plant is nearly destroyed, some root aphids will develop wings that enable them to seek new plants to attack. In the fall, winged aphids, now male and female, mate in brush and trees and produce more eggs. Ants are known to carry aphids from exhausted plants to un-colonized ones.

Damage​

Damage from root aphids is usually visible in a lack of vigor from plants. Withered, curled, and yellow leaves, similar to signs of nutrient deficiencies, appear and plants fail to reach the size of uninfested plants. Fruits and blossoms on aphid infested plants will be small, stunted, and generally less desirable as nutrition is siphoned away from them.


Attacks from root aphids can leave plants vulnerable to root rot, mildew, and disease.

Visible symptoms, like yellowing leaves, often lead growers to consider adding certain minerals, usually magnesium, to their nutrient mixture, often with no result.

In addition to greenhouse and garden perennials, various types of root aphids attack rice crops, the roots of a variety of trees including fir, walnut, and hickory. Root aphids can also cause problems for perennial herbs, including those grown in pots.

Root Aphid Control​

Detecting the first signs of root aphids, especially when growing indoors, is crucial to saving your plants vegetating and fruiting abilities. At a certain point, usually sooner rather than later, affected plants and containers should be removed from the grow space completely and destroyed.

Waiting for fruits or flowers to mature in an attempt to save something of a crop is not advised. This only gives root aphids a chance to inoculate themselves into your entire grow area. It’s best to start over, sanitizing all containers and growing equipment that’s been used. Indoor growers should clean their entire grow space.

 

[Hippie420]

I wonder if H2O2 would work this late in the game? Gotta be better than straight water, and it turns to water in a few days.

 

[oldfogey8]

If you spray the buds, regardless of what you use, dry them off with a fan(or some folks on here even use a leaf blower) after spraying. PM and bud rot this late really sucks. I had to remove some buds from bud rot already this summer.

 

[boo]

hydrogen peroxide reduced down enough so it won't hurt the plants wont have any effect of bugs...I've tried it to no avail...

 

[WeedHopper]

Alcohol and water will kill them but it will melt a few Trichomes. Although it just melts the trichomes into the bud and then the alcohol will evaporate.
30% alcohol and 70% water mixed in a spray bottle.

 

[tinpanharry]

I did this and it worked well. No more bugs found! Thanks ! The next day I also hit them with Plant Therapy from Amazon. I’m still gonna harvest them right away but it worked!

 

[Sheck14]

I am also struggling with an aphid issue. I am however in veg. I thought I took them out a couple weeks ago with a Spinosad and neem spray. Foliar. It seemed to really put a dent in them.
Now they’re back. I was and am struggling with a cal mag deficiency as well. But I think the aphids are hurting the plants more than the deficiency. I transplanted some small plants and the roots were very stunted, as well as the rest of the plants. Leaves are dying at a rapid rate I might be really screwed here.
I am speculating the aphids are coming from my bags of soil. Is that a thing? Roots organics bastards…
This evening I gave them all the trifecta. Neem soil drench. Spinosad foliar spray. And diatomaceous earth covering every square inch of soil. Pray with me folks

 

[Bugus_Monkey]

How far into Veg and How many plants???

 

[Sheck14]

How far into Veg and How many plants???

5 plants. Unknown veg time. They were clones. Now they’re around 2.5 feet tall

 

[user 60570]

I am also struggling with an aphid issue. I am however in veg. I thought I took them out a couple weeks ago with a Spinosad and neem spray. Foliar. It seemed to really put a dent in them.
Now they’re back. I was and am struggling with a cal mag deficiency as well. But I think the aphids are hurting the plants more than the deficiency. I transplanted some small plants and the roots were very stunted, as well as the rest of the plants. Leaves are dying at a rapid rate I might be really screwed here.
I am speculating the aphids are coming from my bags of soil. Is that a thing? Roots organics bastards…
This evening I gave them all the trifecta. Neem soil drench. Spinosad foliar spray. And diatomaceous earth covering every square inch of soil. Pray with me folks

hit them with some Pyganic for about three days straight..