Brix's hydro LED grow tutorial

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I hung the carbon filter all the way to the right so that it will not be far from the vent hole I'm using for the ventilation fan. The less duct you run for the fan, and as inline as possible, the better. Every bend restricts airflow!

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YES! Awesome Brix!!! :aok:

I'm happy for you. And good one on the smart pot + coco chunk combo. We'll be nearly identical in setups, since I bought two Grow Flow setups ($1,100 later)
 
YES! Awesome Brix!!! :aok:

I'm happy for you. And good one on the smart pot + coco chunk combo. We'll be nearly identical in setups, since I bought two Grow Flow setups ($1,100 later)

That's awesome doc! When will you be setting these up?
 
As soon as stuff finishes! Pop into the Office sometime and check in. You're over due for a check up :rofl:

I'll be posting more pics tomorrow, but there's ONE HECK of a learning curve!!!! At least I learned ahead of time for ya! lol!!!!

Feed HALF STRENGTH .. for the love of god, do not feed whatever you're used to feeding, even if you know the strain!! The LED's feed the plants, and this is some serious bizness lol. Also, don't grow big plants, like 4 in one place.. do like 16 in a 4x4 or 12 or so, and WAY less leaves and way less horizontal training!! It's all together a different process, and I learned the super hard way!
 
As soon as stuff finishes! Pop into the Office sometime and check in. You're over due for a check up :rofl:

I'll be posting more pics tomorrow, but there's ONE HECK of a learning curve!!!! At least I learned ahead of time for ya! lol!!!!

Feed HALF STRENGTH .. for the love of god, do not feed whatever you're used to feeding, even if you know the strain!! The LED's feed the plants, and this is some serious bizness lol. Also, don't grow big plants, like 4 in one place.. do like 16 in a 4x4 or 12 or so, and WAY less leaves and way less horizontal training!! It's all together a different process, and I learned the super hard way!

I hear all of that! That's why I chose short strains on this purchase. I'll be topping and spreading through a net on this one, next run I'll run clones, and I'll keep em small and run nine. I just popped in the office a minute ago, the secretary said you were on lunch! :rofl: lookin good over there doc, tons of trichs, still need some more fat, but I think you've got the problem figured out this round, the next one will be a grand slam I'm sure:aok:
 
Yeah more fat = more plants, less width / branches. Just think, I have 4 plants and each one probably has 50 or so branches and sub branches etc, easily! I want to get to doing 4-6 branches on a single, and do 12 - 16 of em. :D
 
Yeah more fat = more plants, less width / branches. Just think, I have 4 plants and each one probably has 50 or so branches and sub branches etc, easily! I want to get to doing 4-6 branches on a single, and do 12 - 16 of em. :D

Yeah I'm shooting for 6-7 shoots. Gonna have to super crop em to stop the stretch. They're indica dom's so they shouldn't stretch too much, depending on the phenos I get. But yeah nothing below the net and let the LED penetrate down the plants 16-18 inches or so. I've read pj's pruning for yield led tutorial! I think I'm gonna have a good first run. If things go well, next run I'll dose em with co2. Well....when I get the feed schedules sorted out anyway!:aok:
 
So PJ, I took your advice, got these today
Perfect

And this too
Perfect, you have the keys to success.

I use a rubbermaid trashcan and use hot water straight from my water spicket and expand it. Once it is expanded I try and drain off as much of the standing water in the bottom as I can. I then let it sit at least 24 hours beofre use, but some sits for a week at a time and I have had zero issues storing it this way as long as it is not kept with a lid.

If you are running GH Flora nutes I use 6ML micro, 9ML Grow and 1ML or gram per gallon of Epsom which will counter the Coco coir dissipation of both magnesium and sulfur. I run with this for the first three weeks of a seeds life, or clone. I will get three weeks use out of this mix typically and I flood every 12 hrs at this point. I also add back fresh water after every feed to top off the res to the same level so food PPM's go down and PH rises.

At 21 days food is changed to 6ML of micro and 9ML of bloom with 1ML or gram of Epsom, which can normally be discontinued about two weeks after flipping the switch. If you do run the CO2, plan on the epsom staying.

If your in to other additives I'd suggest holding off until you get a grow in under your belt. I'll use kool bloom at times but very sparingly.

LED growing is a whole new animal if you come from the HPS era for sure.

Once you get your first dialed in grow under your belt, you'll never look back...

Also please remember that these numbers are very basic. Always read your plants, and do so in natural lighting. If they get a little dark or the leaves start to roll down on you, you'll have to back off the micro.

It's all together a different process, and I learned the super hard way!
Learned, or learning?
:rofl:

You'll want to follow the above as well my friend.

Now, let's get err done!
 
You'll want to follow the above as well my friend.

Now, let's get err done!

OH you know I already purchased the stuff and will follow along :)
And obviously I'm learning, but you KNOW I've learned a lot so far... the HARD way :rofl:
 
Been following along. Looking good. LED`s are here to stay.
 
Perfect


Perfect, you have the keys to success.

I use a rubbermaid trashcan and use hot water straight from my water spicket and expand it. Once it is expanded I try and drain off as much of the standing water in the bottom as I can. I then let it sit at least 24 hours beofre use, but some sits for a week at a time and I have had zero issues storing it this way as long as it is not kept with a lid.

If you are running GH Flora nutes I use 6ML micro, 9ML Grow and 1ML or gram per gallon of Epsom which will counter the Coco coir dissipation of both magnesium and sulfur. I run with this for the first three weeks of a seeds life, or clone. I will get three weeks use out of this mix typically and I flood every 12 hrs at this point. I also add back fresh water after every feed to top off the res to the same level so food PPM's go down and PH rises.

At 21 days food is changed to 6ML of micro and 9ML of bloom with 1ML or gram of Epsom, which can normally be discontinued about two weeks after flipping the switch. If you do run the CO2, plan on the epsom staying.

If your in to other additives I'd suggest holding off until you get a grow in under your belt. I'll use kool bloom at times but very sparingly.

LED growing is a whole new animal if you come from the HPS era for sure.

Once you get your first dialed in grow under your belt, you'll never look back...

Also please remember that these numbers are very basic. Always read your plants, and do so in natural lighting. If they get a little dark or the leaves start to roll down on you, you'll have to back off the micro.


Learned, or learning?
:rofl:

You'll want to follow the above as well my friend.

Now, let's get err done!

So PJ, I am using AN jungle juice three part. Basically the same as the GH flora correct? I have some bloombastic, but I'll hold off on that and co2 this round til I got these new strains dialed in!:aok:

I understand your feeding schedule, easy enough! Is this ok to feed from seedling? Or do I start with straight water PH'ed to 5.3? My next question is more on the flood schedule after the first three weeks. How long? How often? I have a 40 gallon Rez, how much nute solution should I mix, all 40? Oh and DGF talks about using mycorrhizae, however I'm not sure that's beneficial when using synthetic nutes, am I right? My thinking is the nutes will kill the microbes? I've had a lot of success with organic soil grows in the past and this was always a rule of thumb!
I'd hate to waste money on that, I love great white, but that stuffs expensive! Don't wanna just throw it away! Lol.
 
So PJ, I am using AN jungle juice three part. Basically the same as the GH flora correct?
That's what they claim. In my experience no they are not, not even close IMHO

I have some bloombastic, but I'll hold off on that and co2 this round til I got these new strains dialed in!:aok:

I can not comment on Bloomblastic as I have never use it. That said I have tested literally hundreds of products and I still stand by nothing beats GH for hydroponics nutes for cannabis.


I understand your feeding schedule, easy enough! Is this ok to feed from seedling? Or do I start with straight water PH'ed to 5.3?

I assume 5.3 is a typo? I would never suggest anyone ever run near 5.3 I'd go 5.7 to 5.8 in veg only as a starting point and if you're going to be mono cropping we can start weak and climb over the course of the three weeks in veg.

My next question is more on the flood schedule after the first three weeks. How long? How often? I have a 40 gallon Rez, how much nute solution should I mix, all 40?

That is going to depend on how many gallons it takes to fill the tray up on a flood. I would guess 20 may be enough, but that has to be determined by you.

Oh and DGF talks about using mycorrhizae, however I'm not sure that's beneficial when using synthetic nutes, am I right?

I use Extreme gardening Mykos and apply it at transplanting at a rate of 2TBS per site. Please note that this is a fungi, not a microbial source. It helps create a type of root not seen in normal hydroponic applications. Mycorrhizae will produce N and P when the plant is deficient, but will shut down and essentially go dormant when there is plenty of available nutrients like with an NPK synthetic fertilizer. High P slows them down the most. The point is to introduce mycorrhizae early (in week 1 of veg) and let it grow on the small clones or seedlings roots while there is still low nutrient strength. Once a mycorrhizae colony is established it grows with the roots as they expand and grow larger. Mycorrhizae is a fungus, think of a fingernail fungus, it will keep on growing with the new fingernail until you put an antifungal to kill it. Same with mycorrhizae. Again the point is to establish and grow the colony in veg where high N is used then once flowering hits and you raise the P, the colonies of mycorrhizae are already grown and in place and doing their job of protecting plants from disease. Myco's main job for us fertilizer using,heavy feeding indoor gardeners is to protect and shield plants from disease and pathogens. We don't rely on myco to feed as much as we rely on our organic or salt based fertilizers. Myco does more than provide nutrients to the plant roots, its main benefit is growing a large fruiting body around the plants root system, protecting it from pathogens, making more nutrients available, and most importantly mycorrhizae serves as a reservoir for water and nutrients to be held and made available at the root zone.

My thinking is the nutes will kill the microbes? I've had a lot of success with organic soil grows in the past and this was always a rule of thumb!
I'd hate to waste money on that, I love great white, but that stuffs expensive! Don't wanna just throw it away! Lol.

As far as flood times, turn on the flood and see how long it takes to fill the tray. If it fills in less than 15 minutes then 15 is fine. If it takes longer then extend the time.

No worries about trying to get everything down now. Lets get some plants going, and I'll walk you through it as you go.
:48:
 
Excellent thread Brix. Green mojo when you get the grow kicked off bro.
 
mountains of good information in here.....holy crap!!!

Thanks for the good read, will definitely follow along!!
 
I was going to switch from GH to JJ when my gallons were empty. The formulas for the Jungle Juice and the GH appears to be the same....any idea what makes JJ not as good? Scott has purchased GH and I hate supporting Monsanto.
 
love the info ty pj and green mojo on the grow bro:vap-leafy_wave:
 

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