Controlling tempatures through ventilation

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I wasn't to sure where to post this, but this seems like a reasonable area. My question has to do with my temperatures dropping drastically while my lights are off. While the light is on the temp stays between 80f and 85f when it shuts off it goes down between 60f and 65f. Not wanting this to effect my bud production i would like to find a way to keep the temps up but still keep fresh air coming in from outside.What i was thinking was putting my intake on a timer to turn on for half an hour or so, 3 or 4 times while lights are out. Does anyone think this will work or have any suggestion on what i can do. Any response is appreciated. thanks:)
 
60-65 is perfect. No need to try to warm it up. Think about how they survive into october out side
 
i second that they should be cooler when the lights are off, and IMHO i think the colder temps help to tell the plant its time to grow faster, but i grow outdoors.
 
you think so? I was under the impression temps below 65 slow down growth, whether it be in veg. or flower. I could be wrong though. Thanks for the input fellas.
 
danknuggets420 said:
you think so? I was under the impression temps below 65 slow down growth, whether it be in veg. or flower. I could be wrong though. Thanks for the input fellas.

You dont need the vent fan when the lights are out.
80-85 to 60-65 is a large diferance, where 60-65 should not hurt them ive read to keep the night time temps closer than that to prevent stretch in the flower stage.
 
cool temps helps the girls show their pretty colors also..

wish i had your problem.. = )
 
Growdude said:
You dont need the vent fan when the lights are out.
80-85 to 60-65 is a large diferance, where 60-65 should not hurt them ive read to keep the night time temps closer than that to prevent stretch in the flower stage.
Thanks Growdude, i just had one of those "duh" moments when i read the first sentence.:bong: And that also explains why they didnt stretch very much towards the beginning.
 
Hey danknuggets

Here is a cheap way to control your exhaust operation automatically. It's a plug n play thermostat you can mount on your wall set it for the temperature you want to mainain. It is for duct mount, but mounts to any surface like a wall.

Your exhaust fan will only run when the heat needs to be removed from your space. Will save you elect $ in the long run.

It can be found here. http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?product=111134
 
Pot Belly said:
Hey danknuggets

Here is a cheap way to control your exhaust operation automatically. It's a plug n play thermostat you can mount on your wall set it for the temperature you want to mainain. It is for duct mount, but mounts to any surface like a wall.

Your exhaust fan will only run when the heat needs to be removed from your space. Will save you elect $ in the long run.

It can be found here. http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php?product=111134
Oh man, thank you Pot Belly, you have no idea how long ive been looking for one of these, ive found ones that can be hard wired but the never the plug in. Thanks a million.
 
I have a pretty great room and I have to admit that temperatures are the single most challenging thing for me seeing as I have 6 7 1000 watt lights going and it is 32 degrees outside. Summer is the toughest for me. One Idea is to make seperate areas in the same grow room on opposite cycles so you use the light to heat the room. I have something similar and it works pretty good.


Stunzeed..
 
danknuggets420 said:
Oh man, thank you Pot Belly, you have no idea how long ive been looking for one of these, ive found ones that can be hard wired but the never the plug in. Thanks a million.

You bet! Let me know how it works for you if you get it.

PB
 
stunzeed said:
One Idea is to make seperate areas in the same grow room on opposite cycles so you use the light to heat the room. I have something similar and it works pretty good.

For some reason this totally slipped my mind! I was having a slight heat issue, but now I think that if I do different cycles, this will help in my situation! Good advice, something so simply slips by everytime!

Do you recommend, the hotter light (flowering, for me) when it's night time outside and the veg lights on during daytime hours?
 
md.apothecary said:
For some reason this totally slipped my mind! I was having a slight heat issue, but now I think that if I do different cycles, this will help in my situation! Good advice, something so simply slips by everytime!

Do you recommend, the hotter light (flowering, for me) when it's night time outside and the veg lights on during daytime hours?

I use only HPS so I never thought of that but If you live in an area of extreme changes from day to night then sure. Me..... I wouldnt worry about it until you try it and test the temps. Once you see an adjustment is needed then definitely try that as the first backup plan so to speak.


I try to keep it as simple as possible. As the seasons change you will have to adjust things like your input output fans. You can run them on a cheap thermostat. It may not keep the room exactly where you want it but it helps to reduce the chances of extreme heat or extream cold....... And doesnt cost an arm and a leg. Good luck!

Stunzeed..
 
I have built/upgraded my grow room several times in the past few years and have found the best luck using a passive air intake system for the best cooling.

My issue was that the room was building up temps too quickly. I had the luxury of having no concerns with noise so I bought a pricey vortex fan (Eco 450 CFM) for the exhaust. Then I bought a 265 CFM squirrel cage fan for the intake. Still had temp problems; if you pull at 450 CFM you have to have 450 CFM to exchange or come into the room. I notice when I removed the fan from the intake hole, the room started to cool some. So I left the fan off and made the hole larger. Its got cooler so I kept tweaking that intake hole size till I got the temps were I needed it.

Now, all I do is use passive air holes and put a cheap-o center air unit filter over the holes (you know the old 69 cent ones) to keep bugs and dirty from getting in. It’s not so dense like a carbon filter so the air flow is not impacted too much.

Anyway, I am new so hopefully this comes across well and hope it helps some body. If anything you save on electric and i am all about garden efficacy.

Lil Elvis
 
Lil Elvis said:
I have built/upgraded my grow room several times in the past few years and have found the best luck using a passive air intake system for the best cooling.

My issue was that the room was building up temps too quickly. I had the luxury of having no concerns with noise so I bought a pricey vortex fan (Eco 450 CFM) for the exhaust. Then I bought a 265 CFM squirrel cage fan for the intake. Still had temp problems; if you **** at 450 CFM you have to have 450 CFM to exchange or come into the room. I notice when I removed the fan from the intake hole, the room started to cool some. So I left the fan off and made the hole larger. Its got cooler so I kept tweaking that intake hole size till I got the temps were I needed it.

Now, all I do is use passive air holes and put a cheap-o center air unit filter over the holes (you know the old 69 cent ones) to keep bugs and dirty from getting in. It’s not so dense like a carbon filter so the air flow is not impacted too much.

Anyway, I am new so hopefully this comes across well and hope it helps some body. If anything you save on electric and i am all about garden efficacy.

Lil Elvis

You mean passive intake holes with an exhaust fan or just having passive intake holes and no fans? i just got off work and im exhausted lol so i might have missed it....

fans DO generate their own heat because they are motorized, but i don't think it's enough that it makes a huge impact on the temps and cooling. However, I do have an issue because my grow closet is so small, an HPS light takes the temps up to the 90's with out any hesitation.

I live in a HOT/Humid climate area we're JUST now getting down into the 50's but we'll be heating back up soon to the 70s and we don't have a day/night temp change.

I need to get some sort of ventilation unit for my small grow room with an HPS. By small, I am referring to say 3ftx2ftx6ft so i'm researching! :hairpull:
 
md.apothecary said:
I need to get some sort of ventilation unit for my small grow room with an HPS. By small, I am referring to say 3ftx2ftx6ft so i'm researching! :hairpull:

So you got 6 square feet. What HPS are you using?
 
We had a 400w hooked in once, and it went to about 100/F in there... went to a 250w test run and it was high 90's.... I am now testing with LED's but though they put off no heat, they are currently only seeming good for vegitational growth. Looking to do a 150w HPS and maybe add a few CFL's to make up the difference in lumens, and possibly reduce the area using 6 mil poly reflective materials that I have left over.
 
Sorry, sometimes I get in that mode and forget to be more complete. yes I do mean removing the fans completely from the intake holes.

You have 6sqft and 400w so you have a good watts per sqft amount (66.66). I find you get popcorn buds if you can’t get up to at least 40-45watts per sqft. I hope you can get your temps down. I have grown above 90 degrees without my plants dieing or turning male.

Lil Elivs

Happy Thanksgiving

md.apothecary said:
You mean passive intake holes with an exhaust fan or just having passive intake holes and no fans? i just got off work and im exhausted lol so i might have missed it....

fans DO generate their own heat because they are motorized, but i don't think it's enough that it makes a huge impact on the temps and cooling. However, I do have an issue because my grow closet is so small, an HPS light takes the temps up to the 90's with out any hesitation.

I live in a HOT/Humid climate area we're JUST now getting down into the 50's but we'll be heating back up soon to the 70s and we don't have a day/night temp change.

I need to get some sort of ventilation unit for my small grow room with an HPS. By small, I am referring to say 3ftx2ftx6ft so i'm researching! :hairpull:
 

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