Help me my plant is dying :(
- Thread starter alirecoba
- Start date
You have this posted twice, but again it looks like nute burn.
Do you feed it nutes? If so, what kind and how much?
Is it too dry? Can't see pics of root base.
Do you ph correctly, or at all?
Give more info so we can help you please.
Do you feed it nutes? If so, what kind and how much?
Is it too dry? Can't see pics of root base.
Do you ph correctly, or at all?
Give more info so we can help you please.
Hushpuppy
Dr MadBud
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2011
- Messages
- 6,441
- Reaction score
- 313
That is not typical of nute burn. Nute burn usually hits the tips of the leaves ffirst, and the leaves are usually much darker and get a "claw" curl to them.
My first guess would be a potassium deficiency, but you don't appear to be in flower, which is usually when P and K deficiencies show up. However you could have a pH issue causing lockout of K(potassium).
What soil/medium are you in? what and how often do you feed them?(please don't say Miracle Grow) Do you check the pH of the water and or medium? What do you use to check pH?
The answers to these will tell us a lot
My first guess would be a potassium deficiency, but you don't appear to be in flower, which is usually when P and K deficiencies show up. However you could have a pH issue causing lockout of K(potassium).
What soil/medium are you in? what and how often do you feed them?(please don't say Miracle Grow) Do you check the pH of the water and or medium? What do you use to check pH?
The answers to these will tell us a lot
Kindbud
Grower
could be a few things need more info type of soil, ph, what nutrients u are using etc
Hackerman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2014
- Messages
- 3,030
- Reaction score
- 286
You can check this out. I saw several instances that looked like your plants.
http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms
http://www.growweedeasy.com/marijuana-symptoms
since im growing outdoors and the soil seemed to be rich i didnt use any nute
im living in a hot and dry area so my first guess was light burn
then i check out some pictures nd it seemed to me like some kind of defeciency
K or P
so i used organic fertilizer.i water the plant once a day,i dont have any device to measure ph.
here are some other pics
View attachment DSC_0433.jpg
View attachment DSC_0434.jpg
View attachment DSC_0435.jpg
View attachment DSC_0436.jpg
im living in a hot and dry area so my first guess was light burn
then i check out some pictures nd it seemed to me like some kind of defeciency
K or P
so i used organic fertilizer.i water the plant once a day,i dont have any device to measure ph.
here are some other pics
View attachment DSC_0433.jpg
View attachment DSC_0434.jpg
View attachment DSC_0435.jpg
View attachment DSC_0436.jpg
T
The Hemp Goddess
Guest
I'm with multi here. I think your soil looks dense and probably does not good drainage capabilities. In addition to lime, it really needs some perlite. All soil should be amended, even if the soil looks good. Growing cannabis is unlike growing other plants. It has some very specific wants and needs as far as soil conditions and nutrients. Specifically, what kind of organic nutrient did you use, what is the N-P-K, and how much did you give it?
dankster420DnS
Rankster
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2014
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 0
That is not typical of nute burn. Nute burn usually hits the tips of the leaves ffirst, and the leaves are usually much darker and get a "claw" curl to them.
My first guess would be a potassium deficiency, but you don't appear to be in flower, which is usually when P and K deficiencies show up. However you could have a pH issue causing lockout of K(potassium).
What soil/medium are you in? what and how often do you feed them?(please don't say Miracle Grow) Do you check the pH of the water and or medium? What do you use to check pH?
The answers to these will tell us a lot
I agree, but don't rely on my word...I am having some problems with one of my personal bag seeds. Why can't I keep mine alive? I do add some water to my nutes almost every day!
Hushpuppy
Dr MadBud
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2011
- Messages
- 6,441
- Reaction score
- 313
You will need to describe your grow and give all the details before anyone can even begin to help you. Welcome to The Passion, If you need help just start your own thread and give us as much info as you can on your grow, and even a pic or 2 will be very helpful.
it does look like K which could be more likely in very dry hot conditions since K is a primary element for respiration and internal cooling the plant would use more in hot dry atmosphere... but it could also be a bad case of Mg def
so if you feed extra K and it gets better than you got it right!.. if you feed extra K and get gets worse... then it was the Mg def
rasing K will reduce Mg uptake and vice versa
is it just me or are some of those burned leaves curling up on the edges like a taco?
the reason I ask about your source water is
if your on a well and the water passes thru a water softener and that's what your watering with... then the Na (salt) produced from the softener would absolutely cause K lock out
so if you feed extra K and it gets better than you got it right!.. if you feed extra K and get gets worse... then it was the Mg def
rasing K will reduce Mg uptake and vice versa
is it just me or are some of those burned leaves curling up on the edges like a taco?
the reason I ask about your source water is
if your on a well and the water passes thru a water softener and that's what your watering with... then the Na (salt) produced from the softener would absolutely cause K lock out
trillions of atoms
Dare to dream...
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 4,703
- Reaction score
- 3,497
Im with hush... ph lockout.
try dolomite lime sprinkled on top of Soil around rootzone and water in. ( flip the record)
your feedwater ph is off if your nutrient line is full spectrum or your growing organicly with no buffers
try dolomite lime sprinkled on top of Soil around rootzone and water in. ( flip the record)
your feedwater ph is off if your nutrient line is full spectrum or your growing organicly with no buffers
What's wrong with miracle gro? I'm not using their soil, I mix my soil with cheap potting soil, mixed with perlite and coco peat. But I was thinking of giving the plants a little shot of very light miracle grow crystals in water.
Hushpuppy
Dr MadBud
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2011
- Messages
- 6,441
- Reaction score
- 313
What is wrong with Miracle Grow fertilizer is that it is not formulated for MJ. Different plants have different needs. If you look at the garden stores you will see certain brands of ferts for Roses, or Azaleas. There are ferts for tomatoes, ferts for fruiting trees and shrubs, ferts for house plants. Generally plants can be grouped to match those with certain nutrient needs, and then buy that particular nutrient brand that "best" serves them. Miracle Grow is a general purpose "high potency" plant food that has been formulated to cover the needs of general bedding plants and annuals.
Marijuana is an animal all its own. It is not a "weed" or a bedding plant, or even a flower. It is more like a cross between a specialized Herb and a high energy fruiting plant like berry producing plants such as Blueberries. This uniqueness of this plant is what makes it such a difficult plant to grow by those who think they are growing a "house plant" or flower. MJ is a very "need specific" plant, and while some people can get away with growing it in less than ideal conditions or nutrients, it is best for getting the best results to use those things that MJ specifically wants.
That said, I wouldn't use MG nutrients at all for my MJ grows, but it is great on bedding plants and general flowers. Marigolds go bananas, and will nearly grow into shrubs when using MG nutes on them.
Marijuana is an animal all its own. It is not a "weed" or a bedding plant, or even a flower. It is more like a cross between a specialized Herb and a high energy fruiting plant like berry producing plants such as Blueberries. This uniqueness of this plant is what makes it such a difficult plant to grow by those who think they are growing a "house plant" or flower. MJ is a very "need specific" plant, and while some people can get away with growing it in less than ideal conditions or nutrients, it is best for getting the best results to use those things that MJ specifically wants.
That said, I wouldn't use MG nutrients at all for my MJ grows, but it is great on bedding plants and general flowers. Marigolds go bananas, and will nearly grow into shrubs when using MG nutes on them.
what are your thoughts on this fert during veg
http://www.lowes.com/pd_79838-446-1...=?Ntt=fertilizer&page=1&facetInfo=Miracle-Gro
9-4-12
seems like a good ratio similar to what GH 3 part ratio is.. is there a reason not to use it?
I have very little experience with outdoor soil except vegetable garden that I use 10-10-10 on
Hushpuppy
Dr MadBud
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2011
- Messages
- 6,441
- Reaction score
- 313
You can certainly try it. I would say use it in small amounts. The problem with this or any like it is that it is a time released nutrient. That means that you have little control over how much or little of each nutrient you are giving the plants. In an outdoor grow where the plants are in native soil rather than in self contained pots, you may be able to make it work as outdoor, native soil can be more forgiving of using these types of fertilizers.
Again though, the time release nutrients takes all of the control completely out of your hands. Every time you or nature waters the plants, they will get nutrients given to them in some unknown proportion, and that is whether they want it or not. This could prove challenging to maintaining the pH in the soil, or getting the proper levels of nutes that the plant needs.
I'm not saying all or even any of this would happen but you could end up at some point with too much of one nutrient like nitrogen, and too little of manganese. Then you will be struggling with trying to correct a problem of a deficiency and "overnute" at the same time. What you may find yourself having to do is flush the soil periodically to try to remove some of the extra "stuff" that is left over from these types of fertilizers. You will also have to be sure to use dolomite lime mixed into the soil to provide both the pH buffering and supplying the needed Magnesium.
This is why I prefer to use the 3 part nutrients. I can control how much of each part I give to the plants, which allows me to dial in the levels that my particular strain wants. Then as its needs change throughout its cycles, I can change the proportions of the 3 parts to account for the need change.
MJ begins its life wanting NO nutrients when it is a seedling. Then when its cotyledons yellow off, You have to begin feeding at low amounts just as you would with a baby. Then as it gets bigger, you have to increase all of the nutrient parts, but in a 5-4-3 proportion. Then when the plants go to the flowering stage you have to wean it off of the "grow" nutrients which are the strongest, and increase the "bloom" nutrients, while maintaining the proper levels of "micro" nutrients. Throughout all of these changes, you need to maintain the proper pH.
I know this sounds like a difficult task to balance but it actually isn't that difficult if you have the control over the nutrients and water (or if you are doing an "all organic" grow which has its own set of rules).
Again, as I said above, if you want to try it, others have done it with success. I personally would not use anything but MJ prescribed nutrients as my natural meds are far too important and valuable to me than to trust them (and all my efforts) to anything else. I am not knocking you if you want to go this route as everyone must do what they can afford to do. I and others here will continue to help you as best we can.
If you are unsure about using MJ specific nutes, and can't afford much, then I would recommend that you take your native soil (if it is decent soil) and mix in some quality "organic soil" that you can buy fairly inexpensive at the home improvement stores, then add in some dolomite lime, bone meal, and worm castings. Then get a bag of Espoma "Plant" or "Garden" Tone. This is relatively inexpensive "organic" fertilizer that has lots of beneficial microbes in it, along with preformed organic nutrients. You can mix this straight into the soil by the cupfulls and then later as the plants grow, you can top-dress the soil with it and water it in so that it continues to ffeed the plants organically.
I hope this helps you
Again though, the time release nutrients takes all of the control completely out of your hands. Every time you or nature waters the plants, they will get nutrients given to them in some unknown proportion, and that is whether they want it or not. This could prove challenging to maintaining the pH in the soil, or getting the proper levels of nutes that the plant needs.
I'm not saying all or even any of this would happen but you could end up at some point with too much of one nutrient like nitrogen, and too little of manganese. Then you will be struggling with trying to correct a problem of a deficiency and "overnute" at the same time. What you may find yourself having to do is flush the soil periodically to try to remove some of the extra "stuff" that is left over from these types of fertilizers. You will also have to be sure to use dolomite lime mixed into the soil to provide both the pH buffering and supplying the needed Magnesium.
This is why I prefer to use the 3 part nutrients. I can control how much of each part I give to the plants, which allows me to dial in the levels that my particular strain wants. Then as its needs change throughout its cycles, I can change the proportions of the 3 parts to account for the need change.
MJ begins its life wanting NO nutrients when it is a seedling. Then when its cotyledons yellow off, You have to begin feeding at low amounts just as you would with a baby. Then as it gets bigger, you have to increase all of the nutrient parts, but in a 5-4-3 proportion. Then when the plants go to the flowering stage you have to wean it off of the "grow" nutrients which are the strongest, and increase the "bloom" nutrients, while maintaining the proper levels of "micro" nutrients. Throughout all of these changes, you need to maintain the proper pH.
I know this sounds like a difficult task to balance but it actually isn't that difficult if you have the control over the nutrients and water (or if you are doing an "all organic" grow which has its own set of rules).
Again, as I said above, if you want to try it, others have done it with success. I personally would not use anything but MJ prescribed nutrients as my natural meds are far too important and valuable to me than to trust them (and all my efforts) to anything else. I am not knocking you if you want to go this route as everyone must do what they can afford to do. I and others here will continue to help you as best we can.
If you are unsure about using MJ specific nutes, and can't afford much, then I would recommend that you take your native soil (if it is decent soil) and mix in some quality "organic soil" that you can buy fairly inexpensive at the home improvement stores, then add in some dolomite lime, bone meal, and worm castings. Then get a bag of Espoma "Plant" or "Garden" Tone. This is relatively inexpensive "organic" fertilizer that has lots of beneficial microbes in it, along with preformed organic nutrients. You can mix this straight into the soil by the cupfulls and then later as the plants grow, you can top-dress the soil with it and water it in so that it continues to ffeed the plants organically.
I hope this helps you
Similar threads
