lights wont turn on

[greenfriend]

Hi all, I am running a MLC-8 lighting controller (8 240V outlets). I have run a 40 amp line from my subpanel. the controller has a 120V trigger cable which is connected to a standard timer which turns the controller and lights on/off.

when the timer turns on the relays in the controller turn on, but the ballasts and lights dont because it trips the breaker. I have gotten the lights to work by unplugging the ballasts then plugging them back into the controller when the relays are already on

I just had new 40 amp double pole breakers installed so I dont think theres a problem with the breaker, but i could be wrong. Is this a problem with the controller? the breaker? i cant keep manually turning the lights on/off every 12 hrs

Thanks!

 

[papabeach1]

the question you typed in.. I was skeptical to answer it.. but good news I handed the question you typed to my bro.. and here what my bro said..

the problem is probably in the lights that you are using, older fluorescent type lights use a far less efficient ballast that will get quite hot and very quickly too, where I u.....I would look into replacing the lights themselves, or at the very least the ballasts.....another option is to buy a remote unit,,,this may or may not solve the problem....remote units ignore safety protocol on most appliances and force them to turn on or off.. hope that helps.

 

[mendo local]

My first question is, What size wire did you run form the breaker to the MLC8?

 

[mendo local]

If the wire isnt the right size. the start up load could be causing a problem.
Let me know.

 

[HydroManiac]

Only reason you trip a breaker is if your taking out to much juice

 

[mendo local]

Breaker tripping occurs because of the supply wire overheating.

 

[Growdude]

The real question that needs asked is how many and what wattage lights are you using?

Breakers trip for one reason, you have exceeded the amp rating

If supply wires are overheating then there undersized.

 

[greenfriend]

papa - i am running 8 brand new Lumatek 240V 1000W ballasts

mendo - it is 8/3 wire , each ballasts draws 4.5 amps. The breaker even trips when I only have one ballast connected to the controller, so i thought it might be a problem with the trigger cable from the controller. it could be caused by the start up load

the subpanel is a 3 phase system with 120V, 120V, 208V legs. Obviously i am only using the first 2 phases for 240V, yet the breaker only turns off on one of the 120V legs, the other 120V leg breaker remains on

 

[84VW]

my guess would've been because you have all 8 trying to start at the same time, thats a big draw

but you just said it even does it with one and that tells me its a bigger problem and you might want to look into that before the building burns down

***you say one breaker kicks and another doesnt and both the same style breaker?

well, i would look into replacing that breaker that keeps kicking, maybe its faulty? and they arent that expensive and easy to change out

 

[HydroManiac]

I just went over this with my dad when start any HID light its gonna suck more energy then the bulb 1000watt bulb at start may take up to 2500 watts to start so if your using 1000watt ballast your gonna need alot of juice

 

[Growdude]

mendo - it is 8/3 wire , each ballasts draws 4.5 amps. The breaker even trips when I only have one ballast connected to the controller, so i thought it might be a problem with the trigger cable from the controller. it could be caused by the start up load

the subpanel is a 3 phase system with 120V, 120V, 208V legs. Obviously i am only using the first 2 phases for 240V, yet the breaker only turns off on one of the 120V legs, the other 120V leg breaker remains on

Sounds like the trigger is being shorted, thats why it only drops one leg of your 240.
If you have a ohm meter you could test across the trigger of the controller, it should not read shorted.

Is this a new controller?

 

[mendo local]

a 240v 40 amp breaker should not be tripping individual breakers. If it trips it should be both at the same time, maybe you have the wrong breaker.
Also how far away from you main panel is your sub panel. If its more than 30 fett you should have another source of ground other than just the wire.

 

[INTHEDES]

Man your drawing 2 MUCH POWER@ ONE TIME.You need 2 slit up a couple things.1st Id stagger the the ballast/timers(I get away with 2 ballast per timer)2nd Id stagger sockets' that you plug into.8 1000watters could draw up to 20,000 volts 2 start.My friend is employed at an electric company;he tells me that that much juice comming from one spot,for the same amount of time ,starting at the same time every day , comming from a residential house....well it kinda puts up a RED FLAG!He claims they (electric companies)do not really care,as long as you pay your bill-on time.But has told me stories of commercial grow operations who ran off generator,until something went wrong with them.Apon switching from low electric numbers to outragous,then back to low(as the genertatos break,they use city)they send somebody to investigate.Causing a bad situation for the grower.

 

[Growdude]

a 240v 40 amp breaker should not be tripping individual breakers. If it trips it should be both at the same time, maybe you have the wrong breaker.

This is true unless he is only shorting one leg or 120v

This is why I think the trigger is being shorted.

 

[Growdude]

Man your drawing 2 MUCH POWER@ ONE TIME.You need 2 slit up a couple things.1st Id stagger the the ballast/timers(I get away with 2 ballast per timer)2nd Id stagger sockets' that you plug into.8 1000watters could draw up to 20,000 volts 2 start..

With the MCL-8 there is no need to stagger ballast and timers.

He is not overloaded as he has stated it happens with only one ballast plugged in.

And no matter what your load is your not going to draw 20,000 volts, volts wont change but there is a in rush of current.

 

[BuddyLuv]

I suggest beefing up the wire to 6 gauge. I was told by CAP that you want a 15-20% buffer for running this unit. I am running the same unit @ 50 amps @120v with 8 600w Lumatek ballast triggered to a CAP XGC-1 with no problems. CAP told me since my ballasts are 120v only to run 120, since the volts are cut in half the unit can now handle 80 amps at start up. I am only pulling 45.875. The six gauge wire will also fit in the MLC-8. And this all running off a single pole 50 amp breaker.

 

[BuddyLuv]

Also make sure you are not having an arc issue inside the controller. Open it up an make sure all your connections are clean and tight.

 

[NorCalHal]

Man, thats why I like Intermatic timers.

That is a nifty light controller, but can someone explain how a timer would be set up for this? I just don't see it.
I guess you would say, wire a Intermatic 120 timer to the "trigger"? And the trigger the allows the 240 "juice" to the outlets on the controller?

Am I close or just really high?

 

[BuddyLuv]

Yes the 120v triggers allows power the capacitors. I am wondering if he is using a digital timer or mechanical?

 

[BuddyLuv]

Or dump the controller run 5 independent 20 amp circuits and invest in 5- 2 socket 240 timers to run them.