Mold Oh NO

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gary18

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Good ventalation, fresh air daily, 24hr fan on high during lights on, low speed at dark. Buds are about as long as my forearm and as big around as my fist, about 6 1/2 wks in bud. Deep into one, in the juvinelle nanners, still have that yellowish green color and I find a piece of black mold the size if a pencil eraser. I cut it out immeadiatly, but my nieghbor, also a growwer of the good says I should take that hole bud out as it is probibly all contaminated by the spores, is that right? Hate too lose that one but there is another 10-12 buds about the same size on that plant and I would REALLY hate to lose them all to this mold.
It's a sativa, FFOF soil, FF Big & Tiger nute's, 80 degrees day time temps, down to about 65 at dark. Hum is at about 60%.
Open for any and all input right now, chop the whole bud, the branch, the plant, or just keep clipping the infected area's as they show up.
Thanks folk's, oh yes, six other plants at same stage at risk.
 
could be that your bud is so dense, the moisture is not leaving the bud try putting a dehumidifier inside your grow to bring the humidity down to around 50 it may raise up to low 60's at certain points of the day, but it will help out alot.

forgot to add Chop the whole bud
 
Hello Gary :)

What you are told is correct, but it is airborn and will eventually spread everywhere.

Once its there, its there.

Cut it now or lose more later.

:peace:

Just my thoughts only.
 
chop the crop!

then sterilize like you've never sterilized before.... like HIE said, it's airborn and will spread.... if you see any mold, you've already got mold spores in the air....

i'd harvest now and save what you can....
 
Hey Hippie, been awhile, hope all is well.
Wow, they are so young, will try the de-humidifier and chopping the infected bud first. My room is very clean now, the density may be a major factor, the buds are hard as rocks. Also I do live on the coast (west), and black mold is notorious out here in nearly everything. I seem to take a stiff brush and a hard cleanser to the tub, sinks, and seams around it all. Not so bad during the summer, but from mid oct till early may, it's a problem.
First time its ever got my girls though. Thanks.
No sprays or magic dust I can sprinkle on this to kill it without damaging the plant or my lungs when it's smokable?
 
gary18 said:
Hey Hippie, been awhile, hope all is well.

I'm doing well thanks Gary :) I hope things your end are being kind to you :aok:

No sprays or magic dust I can sprinkle on this to kill it without damaging the plant or my lungs when it's smokable?

Nothing will stop it, no magic solutions.

I'ts just bad luck, some years it will come and other years you will see none of it, its just the way it is.

:peace:
 
Yeah, aside from the mold problem, all is well, my cancer is in 100% remission or so I'm told. I always keep in mind that Doctor's are only liscenced to " Practice ", medicine and nothing more. I keep waiting for at least one in the world to graduate and become a professinal. Hahahaha.
Have included a air purifier and hope to hold back the mold at least untill my girls mature alittle.
Have some clones in another room, but they've only been in soil about 17 days, so they have awhile before I can put them to flower.
Luck of the draw ya know. You take care and keep the green agrowin.
It's oh bowl thirty now,:hubba: . Me and the Dragon.:48:
 
To prevent mold and mildew I have recently discovered with a friend that brief extreme temps over 90 degrees will kill all mycelium.

Plants Outdoor here in cali see 110 degrees during summer. No harm done to them.


For the last week, I have my timer turn off my a/c just before light comes on. Temps get to 100 in about 35 min, so I have the timer kick the a/c back on and the room will go back to 80 in 30 minutes and sit at 80 with light on. Saves energy too!

This is my new preventative maintenance. And my plants have not noticed a thing.

Mycelium dies over 90 degrees. It works.


Good luck.

Dont smoke moldy bud!


Edit: mold favors humidity over 50% and temps of 70-80 degrees. 60% is way too high
 
MindzEye said:
Hey Kushman Im not trying to be an arse here but before I started growing herb I grew a fungus that Im not allowed to mention the name of here and I grew it for years with pounds of "fruits" that grew out of it... Once jars were innoculated the mycelium would grow rapidly when incubated at 80-90f degrees.. One thing a fungus grower can spot easily is contamination, there are a whole bunch of fungus that will thrive at 90f degrees.. There was a mold that was discovered I cant remember the name it been so long but it can withstand 1200f!!! In order to kill mold with heat you have to identify it first and it takes an expert with a lot of equipment to properly ID fungus... It can work for some mold but not all of it. There are hundreds of thousands of types out there and they are constantly mutating to survive..
Correct you are!

but...


But there are only 2 molds that I know of that affect marijuana.

One germ's at 60 degrees and up to 100 percent RH

the other germs at 80 and down to 0% humidity.

1 thing in common they have, 90+ degree temps kill them both.


http://www.marijuanapassion.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49128
 
yea i been working with a friend on this for some time now.
I really like using silicon ALL the time, from day one add a bit to the resevoirs and maybe you can avoid catching it in the first place. Its really easy, cheap, and is a nutrient anyways.


The challenge is killing the asexual spores called conidia. These are the white "mildew" that is seen. PM also has sexual spores that it releases when it gets cold and it thinks winter is approaching. I think these are called cleistotheca and are little brown sap looking things on leaves that look like thrip turds. The conidia I read can live up to 21 days, the Cleistotheca live months. I think if you have mildew it is better to up the cold nights so that u only have conidia to fight against. These conida are asexual spores that need to live on another plant. They are obligate parasites. In nature they might get blown by the wind into atmosphere when conditions good and land far away and start to grow. In a room they might land on walls or any surface like edges of tables, under tables etc. I have yet to find out if conidia or cleistos can rest in medium and grow onto root for example. But so the spores are on the walls. How to kill them? You can turn off everything for 3 weeks which hopefully the spores will have died. But u do not want to have everything down that long so how can we accelerate this shut down? I think the variables and products might include Sulfur Burners, Ozone Gnerators, high temps and maybe other stuff too.

I just read a book called Hemp Diseases and Pests by MacPArtland, Clarke and Watson. It is very comprehensive and one guy is a college professor. Serious people should but it, it costs ~175 but worth it. On page 11 they mention PM. There are TWO species that infect cannabis; Sphaerotheca macularis and Leveillula taurica. Knowing these two names means interested people can research google these names and get lots of SPECIFIC information. One tidbit of interest is that the relative humidity for each for germination is different. L taurica conidia can germinate with 0% RH and optimal growth is 25C (77F). In contrast, S. macularis conidia germinate best at 100%RH with optimal growth at 15-20C (59-68). So perhaps the experience and advice that one might have could depend on the species you r experienced with and that is hard to know. L taurica likes it warm and dry whereas S macularis likes cool and wet. I supose there are some conditions that are bad for both. S macularis infects hops which is similar to cannabis.

Here is a brutal story; Hops used to be grown around New York, about 70 years ago PM infected the field and annihilated them. Not sure which strain, perhaps s macularis. The whole hops industry shut down and all hops growing moved to Washington state where this PM strain did not exist until about 2002 when it started showing up Outdoors, throught the last 100 years, PM often is so hartd to fight the whole industry will just move when possible. Now all the hops is fumigated and grown like grapes with lots of sulfur. The entire wine grape industry in USA uses Fumigants like Supher. Without them there would literally be no wine industry!

Pro-Tekt Silicon might be able to help against PM
Fighting this Borg is tough. I read some articles by greehouse people about silicon being used to toughen up plants. Dyna Gro makes it and lots of people use it, i think more for heat tolerance but it might be good for PM. Barricade also is Silicon. It will not eradicate it, it might control or mitigate it. It might makes leaf cells thinker. Below is an article from a recent legit journal. Any thoughts? Anybody use this? I recommend using it proactively as a normal fertilizer element BEFORE getting exposed to PM. Then u may never get PM!


hXXp://www.springerlink.com/content/j6r7153t37233522/


Abstract Foliar and root applications of different silicon (Si)-based formulations were evaluated for their effects in reducing powdery mildew and promoting growth of wheat plants. X-ray microanalyses of treated plants revealed that root applications resulted in consistent deposition of Si in the leaves. In terms of powdery mildew control, root applications at 1.7 mM Si gave consistently the best results, reducing disease severity by as much as 80%, regardless of the product used. Although less effective than root applications, foliar treatments with both Si and nutrient salt solutions led to a significant reduction of powdery mildew on wheat plants. This suggests a direct effect of the products on powdery mildew rather than one mediated by the plant as in the case of root amendments. In our experiments, Si amendment, either through the roots or the leaves, did not increase plant growth. These results lead to the conclusion that Si is primarily, if not exclusively, absorbed by the root system and that such absorption by the roots is necessary for an optimal prophylactic effect.


I came up with a concept of infection that I will delineate now so that we can have a baseline for what infection is.

Level 0 (zero) infection: is actually NO infection. There are absolutely NO PM fungal bodies, mycellium, hyphae living anywhere in the system. This is primarily in a greenhouse or closed environment.

Level 1 infection: Low level infection. Under control. Rarely see patches but they do not really progress. Control might be natural immunity, resistance, neem oil, serenade. This is the natural state outdoors where spores might land on plants and not progress or might only get bad if weather changes. This is the state that many growers are in. They say they do not have mildew but really have a latent infection. If they give away clone that look ok the giftee gets PM. If they change the temp/humidity/environment then it shows up leading these people to say PM is always there and only conditions prevent it.

Level 2 infection: Full blown infection. Everything is being annihilated by PM. Trillions of spores. Might be using sulfur burner every week or two here to keep down infection, but stop and soon - WHAM.

I will try to use this nomenclature from here on sincce I think many people are in level 1 infection and think they are in level 0. An analogy is Herpes. Some people have cold sores all the time (level 2), many people have occasional outbreaks or even almost never (level 1), while some people do not have it and this can be proved by a negative antibody test (level 0).

I like to be at Level 0. Level 2 is unacceptable. Level 1 is an interesting place. Might plants that are really treated wtih proper control regimen and fresh vegeative plants revert to level 1????

The person I spoke with today said that Serenade applied weekly to level 1 plants might eradicate PM. The way that I have gone from Level 1 or 2 to level 0 is by shutting down as I mention above.


Link to article on greenhouse L taurica
http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/cropprot/peppermildew.htm
Of note is that in peppers here they take 21 days to grow and seem to have spores on underside of leaves.

Link to S macularis on hops
hXXp://www.plantmanagementnetwork.o...hXXp://www.mjp.com/ic/showthread.php?t=129670
 
Thanks all, OGK you and your friend have definatly put some time into this subject. I have not seen any signs on any of my other girls or any of the other branchs on that plant, ( Knock on Wood ), I decided on just removing the whole branch at the stock. Will do some follow up reading on the 2 fungi in question, I spent several years hauling commercial ( Food Service ), mushrooms and learned alittle from 5th generation growwers in Penn. about 20 miles S.W. of Philadelphia about the Fungus. Food grades are VERY delicate when it comes to temp's, so I will do alittle more research before doing anything drastic.:farm: :watchplant: :watchplant: :ccc:
 
Okay, I dropped the temp 10 degrees, hum by nearly 20%, cut away the infected branch, running 2 air purifiers and one dehumidifire. The black mold/mildew turned brown, and dried up like a crusty old leaf. No new spots have shown up and I'm really glad I did NOT pull the hole crop, that would have been a real waste.
The info on the two types of mold found in MJ was of particular help, it allowed me to ID the fungus I was fighting. It needed high temps- above 80dg and over 60% hum. Thank you. I learned alot looking up the two molds and even how the black house mold we get out here mutates to feed on house plants and veg gardens. Nasty stuff!

Remember not all Dragons live Forever !

:farm: :watchplant: :ccc:
 

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