Need Some Advice....Please :D

[GoNAVY]

Morning all...

I am just about to go and pick up the lumber to frame my room.

My room will be created in my garage, built to enclose the vehicle door.

I have removed the drywall along the wall areas of my room.

Doubled up R-22 to R-28 insulation will be used and then re-walled with plywood. The garage door edges have been sealed with Big Gap Filler and a fully insulated wall will cover the door on the inside (back wall of grow-room). There was a 'rough' shelf mounted above the vehicle door from prior, this will be insulated and plywooded creating part of the room's ceiling. This shelf will be extended, insulated and will connect with a wall along the front of room also possessing the entrance (insulated and plywood).

The room will be vaporbarrier'd using the white/black reflective plastic with duct tape. A permanant enclosed area for veg in one corner (5' x 5').

The room will only be 7' tall, so I was leaning towards flo's for both phases.

My issue right now is electricity (Please, I have NO electrical experience. No knowledge). Presently there are 4 outlets mounted on the opposite wall from the room.

Should these be moved permanantly, or will extensions manage?

In total, I figure 6 flo's in the veg (1 table). 16 flo's in the flower (2 tables, 6 overtop, 1 on each side of each table)

1 Fan channelling fresh air into the room, simple openings at top of room for exiting air vented into main part of garage. CO2 bottle with delivery system as well.

Do I need fresh air intake with a CO2 system?

Self made Hydroponics (Thanks Mr Green) with 5 water pumps (2 for circulation, 3 for watering).

I hope that the flowering tables can manage 6 plants each. I'm hoping to grow an Indica on one table and a hybrid on the other.

This is all created in the fantasy of my own psyche.

If I'm way off, please let me know.

All the critism please. I'm in this to learn.

Thanks to all in advance. :headbang:

GoNAVY :aok:

 

[pcduck]

Should these be moved permanantly, or will extensions manage?

I would run dedicated lines to the breaker box if all possible. If not possible, I would move them permanently and change out the outlets with ones with a ground fault

Do I need fresh air intake with a CO2 system?

I would first ask,"Do I really need CO2"? Are you experiencing extremely high temps?....If you do go CO2 you still need an intake.

 

[kubefuism]

Hey Navy, Be dedicated and devoted is about the biggest thing that will ever help you first off. And you've got that plenty from what I can tell.
1. Find friends with electrical backgrounds, they can be most helpful. Fluro's aren't bad with heat and also don't explode like improperly handled HID's. You will have to do the math to figure out if what your using can be pulled from what your garage boxes can handle. If there old, you'll have to get a little Omh meter and make sure there is no defect with them.
2. Keep in mind outside temps affect inside temps. your exhust and intake will reflect heat and smell and this will have to be handled as you continue. Great job on getting your plan together and good luck with it all man...
:watchplant:

 

[GoNAVY]

I would run dedicated lines to the breaker box if all possible. If not possible, I would move them permanently and change out the outlets with ones with a ground fault

This would have to run from the basement. Approximately 50 feet from the fuse box to my intended room. I'm sure I could run the cables, and then just have an electrician do the touchy stuff.

I would first ask,"Do I really need CO2"? Are you experiencing extremely high temps?....If you do go CO2 you still need an intake.

The room isn't in operation yet. I'm picking up the lumber this afternoon to do the framing. Hopefully the insulation will be done tomorrow or Sunday.

I don't anticipate any heat issues other than perhaps a lack there of. I have a couple of space heaters available if they need to be added.




Thanks Duck, I really appreciate your input ! ! ! ! !

 

[GoNAVY]

Hey Navy, Be dedicated and devoted is about the biggest thing that will ever help you first off. And you've got that plenty from what I can tell.
1. Find friends with electrical backgrounds, they can be most helpful. Fluro's aren't bad with heat and also don't explode like improperly handled HID's. You will have to do the math to figure out if what your using can be pulled from what your garage boxes can handle. If there old, you'll have to get a little Omh meter and make sure there is no defect with them.
2. Keep in mind outside temps affect inside temps. your exhust and intake will reflect heat and smell and this will have to be handled as you continue. Great job on getting your plan together and good luck with it all man...
:watchplant:

This plan has been in the works for about 3 months now. I have been slowly building a budget to get things operational. I think/hope I have enough to finish the framing, insulation and re-walling this weekend.

After that, I will have to save again to get an electrician in, and to get the lights.

Hopefully, after electical is complete, I can start the seedlings and get some clones going before I have to hang the lights in the flower room. I think I will need a space heater running during this, cause the 6 veg flo-lights wont be enough to provide adequate heat.

Thanks Kubefuism, I'll keep posting my progress as it happens. If you see anything off, please let me know.

Appreciate the input!!!

 

[kubefuism]

Hey navy, That's great progress... Ha, remember to have a cover story for when the electrican looks at you and goes "So, tell me again why you want a 240 volt line to a detach garage with fresh faux walls?" HAHAHA... But serious you've got a good pace going. yeah, you can space out the construction of the flower room to catch-up to veg time, but you should run your flower chamber a few days to work out any bugs that may present themselves. And on the heat, make sure to diffuse the heat and use lots of oscilating fans... Can't wait to see pics. Personally, its a big day for my garden, I took my ladies to 12/12. Oh, they grow up so fast...well...you'll see soon enough on your own.

 

[GoNAVY]

I was a diver with the Navy, and am still a sport diver. I have lots of equip in my garage. I figured I'd tell him i'm installing an air compressor. That would explain the isolated room as well.

Besides, if he looks like he's getting wise. I'll pull out a CANNON!!! Perhaps he will forget about the topic?

All Jokes...

 

[The Hemp Goddess]

I would recommend using HPS lighting rather than fluor for flowering. Fluoros will cost more to purchase initialy, will put out more heat, will provide fewer lumens, and (watt per watt and lumen per lumen) will cost more to operate every single month than HPS of comparable wattage.

 

[GoNAVY]

I would recommend using HPS lighting rather than fluor for flowering. Fluoros will cost more to purchase initialy, will put out more heat, will provide fewer lumens, and (watt per watt and lumen per lumen) will cost more to operate every single month than HPS of comparable wattage.

Even with the 7 ft height restriction?

 

[Hick]

..LOL.."7 feet" is NOT a heighth restriction..
cfls do not have anywhere near the lumination at a distance that hid's have.
"5,000 L/per sq/ft is recommended". 25x5k=125,000 lumen..
5x5x7 (25 sq/ft) should have a 1000 watt .."at least"..
1k is about 135,000 lumens. .. 135,000 lumens of cfls will look like a spiderweb in there.
I think a 40watt cfl puts out about 3,000. Soooo about 45 cfls to provide similar lumens, with less (little to none) canopy penetration.. :confused2:

 

[Hick]

40 watt cfls..$8.95
(round it to $9) x 45= $405
40 watts x 45 bulbs=1800 watts consumed
..and we haven't even talked about fixtures/reflectors..
1800 watts of cfls and built in ballasts will "probably" produce more heat than the single 1k..

cfls are going o be a significant higher cost than the 1 k

 

[cadlakmike1]

But it would look awesome. It would look so crazy bright! It would be blinding.

 

[GoNAVY]

The flo's I was thinking about would be the double bulb 4 ft. 3 of these across the top, kept just above the canopy and then 2 singles mounted on either side of the table for the canopy penetration.

In theory, the only sides that would not receive any light would be the bottom and the 2 narrow ends of the table.